re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

I've a small problem.

Very rarely, when I try to push start the vehicle, the trip meter seems to reset. Not to 0. Trip meter was showing 112km, I rode for around 20 km and then see the trip meter again at 100. O.o Then I tried starting the vehicle and it went back to 97.2km. Now what I also noticed is, when I try to push start, very rarely, the bike acts like the ignition has been switched on. The Tacho needle does a full circle along with the fuel gauge and the Speedo shows 188 and drops down to 0.

Just to remind you guys, I've changed over to DC lighting. Coil rewinding+RR Unit change was done. The headlamps and all the electricals work just fine otherwise though.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hey Guys,

I need help with two things please with my CBZ Xtreme - Pre 2011 Model

First I need to replace her battery. I want to get her an Amaron Battery maintenance free battery. Which battery can I go for and where can I find it in Pune?

Second, I need to get her a set of Tubeless tyres. I like MRF Zapper, will these be ok? Please advise.

Thank you.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

1. Get a 7Ah battery from Amaron. You might need to replace the battery cage of your extreme in case the battery is bigger than the present cage.
2. Do not bother with tubeless tyres on your pre-2011 xtreme. The tubed ones are better on the rim dimensions such as the xtreme and hunk. YEs, the new models come with tubeless and it has its advantages too but a little long run with low pressure and one runs the risk of persistent air leakages from the rims. I have experienced it first hand. Also, if your wheel alloy was meant for a tubed type tyre, you will need to replace your old alloys with the new tubeless alloys to mount tubeless tyres. Needless headache for the amount you have to shell out. Also, repair of tubeless tyres with the kind of repair infrastructure we have in place - bad for your alloys.

Zapper Q is a good option. DO NOT opt for Zapper Y if you're upgrading your tyres - very bad grip. Just OK for city riding only. Meteor series offer good grip. Zapper vyde is a better option than Zapper C. Take your pick

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi Shoeb,

I have referred the official Motul website and found one product naming "P1 CARBU CLEAN", which is specifically developed for motorcycles. Please go through the technical data sheet of below mentioned URL and suggest whether this product is worth buying

Engine oil

As i was nearing 4300km mark i had to change oil so the hunt for better oil began , found a shop that had all kinds of lubricants . Asked for Veedol premium 10w30 , he didnt have that , next i was given various options 1. Gulf semi synth 10W30 2. Shell ax5 10w30 3. Hero /honda 10w30 4. shell ax7 10w40 5. Mobil 10w30 . I was more on w30 as i like it , so i went with mobil for 250rs . Initial 10km was on change felt like hero oil but after 200km gear shifts and engine noise are 20% better . It is mineral based oil but it has drain period of 1k to 1.5k km . It is JASO AND API SJ certified , look for vipul mark under bottle for genuine check. Next time will go for super swift or AX7. Most of oils were ranging from 200 to 300 rs. All in all if you are bored from hero oil or want better oil try Mobil Super 4T .

Re: Engine oil

Manual says using different oil than Hero recommended oil will void warranty if bike is under warranty.

Re: Engine oil

Hero recommends sae10w30 sj grade jaso ma certified oil , so mobil was in this grade so went with it , although it may void warranty . I dont know whether We have to use the barrel oil compulsosily or just stick to recommended grade . Other members please help us out here.

Re: Engine oil


@All: REGARDING WARRANTY CONFUSION W.R.T. ENGINE OILS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. What Hero recommends is just the 'OIL GRADE' . Nowhere has it mentioned the 'brand'/source of the oil to be procured from. That means one can easily buy the recommended grade from the place they want to.

2. Barrel Oils: Service Centers that service an appreciable number of bikes generally opt for this barrel oil as the profit margin is exceptionally high (~100%). While they purchase in bulk, they sell the oil on MRP as printed on Hero Oil Bottles. Now, barrel oils run the risk of degrading faster than that of bottle oils (even if of the same brand) due to increased exposure to heat, humidity and increased chances of contamination of the barrel. If I were you, I would avoid the barrel oil at all costs. Because I do not know how long it is lying there and what kind of contaminants have gone in that, i would safely opt out of the barrel oil. The argument being when I am getting the same oil for the MRP, why should I not go for the SKU (bottle)?

3. Warranty: Is it really possible to visually detect from the drained oil the grade/brand of the oil? Come on guys, please think about it; Automobile brands will want to instill fear in the minds of consumers and insist on buying their products where in fact, oil from other brand(s) might be better for our engines? If one really followed verbatim what the company tells us to - how many of us really follow the instructions pasted on our fuel tanks? Viz. Topping up every 2000kms and draining every 6000kms? In fact, more often than not the drain interval is 2000kms max. for the concerned us. Yes, one can detect visually only if the color of the original oil was different. Like some oils are reddish in color while most 10w30 grades are light golden yellow in color. Even after the oil becomes a blackish, the actual color might be visible to the discerning eye. Got my point? Rarely (or perhaps none on this thread) have there been instances (at least on this forum) where riders have been denied warranty on grounds of using an oil other than the recommended grade by the company.
Understand your motorcycle and more importantly, learn from your mistakes as well as others' mistakes. Nowhere will you get such exhaustive sharing of useful information than on these forums.

Will please request you to read your manuals carefully and in-detail. And most of the times, the language is not in loops. This is not a court judgement. It is all but a simple motorcycle manual.
Cheers

Re: Engine oil

[MENTION=49443]BloggingWheels[/MENTION] , Spot on mate , just brilliantly explained , i rang up nearby svc and asked about same issue , they knew nothing worth crap. So called up a ex mechanic in svc , he also told same thing as you , whos gonna do a extensive test on what oil we used in our bikes , and svc guys just dont pay attention to our words leave oil alone . Also i will try to avoid barrel oil as you said , also i would go next servicing without oil change and change oil myself . A short note on mobil oil , its just superb gear shifts are way smoother and engine noise is lower , if you cant get veedol 10w30 , go for this one , its very nice and clear oil. Other new owners try this oil for once.

Re: Engine oil

Thanx Will opt for at least sku. Those service center guys keep whining that they dont have SKU and compel to use barrel oil. My next service due on 10 June. Im going buy SKU myself and tell them to drain and pour oil from SKU while I am present there.

Re: Engine oil

Hi Guys,

This might sound silly, but my bike (CBZ Xtreme - Pre2011) is now showing 29586 kilometres on the ODO and I have been consistently (at every 2000 kilometres) using the showroom oil with the additives they recommend because of the warranty scare. I think my engine can do better than this and it has grown a bit harsh of late. My next change is at 31000 and I was wondering which oil to use for best performance, with or without additives. I have seen a lot of names and grades on this forum and am confused now. Can you please help me with this?

Thanks a ton!
From me and my bike!!

Re: Engine oil

Darn these svc guys , looting away customers and screwing up nice engines in name of warranty . Anyways try Shell AX7 10W40 as it summers , if you are really persistent on keeping warranty safest bet would be Mobil 10W30 , i would suggest shell as that grade is best for our bikes. Clean chain and air filter , change spark plugs every 10k -12k.

Re: Engine oil


Every 30,000 kms - It is recommended to remove the cylinder head , manually de-carbonize the piston top(crown),head and polish the valves.
As the carbon gets deposited,the compression increases and the engine feels harsh/rough. FE also goes down a little bit.

Even sibun has mentioned this innumerable times but nobody seem to care.

Parts required :
1. Head gasket
2. Top cover/rocker cover rubber gasket.
3. Head O-ring kit(includes top cover bolt o-ring,ASV o-ring etc..)
4.Exhaust gasket
5.Engine oil
6.Spark plug
7.Air filter(If old/used for more than 6K kms)
Few other parts depending upon the need.

Including labor and parts,this should not cost more than Rs.1000/-

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Reposting a problem I had:

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi Guys,
Can u throw some light on my previous post.