Sudden jerks like what happens when you put the bike in second and pop the clutch would ultimately result in unwanted play between the main and counter shafts, after which shifting will be funny, the same happens when you downshift hard and overrev the engine. So its best to engine brake at a steady phase, to reduce the shock its best to throw in a few revs before downshifting.

There is another risk to this practice. Braking. Because you are in neutral, you have lost a critical portion of the bikes braking power i.e. Engine braking.
Since you are just coasting downhill with the help of gravity (not something you can reasonably control ), you can gain speed quite fast... and the only way you can slow down is using your brakes. Which in a emergency situation can easily lock up if you are not careful leading to complete loss of control. If your engine is on and the transmission is engaged, the engine provides a significant braking power without locking the wheels. Moving wheels = ensured traction = more control.
So keep the engine on while you descend. And use the clutch for slowing down etc. You can use the brakes for actually stopping or slowing down faster etc.

Hope that helps

Cheers!!

ok......that clears it too.....wont be using neutral while descending..... thanks

like all other riders have mentioned.. just adding one more liner.. the rule of thumb while riding on ghats is the gear you use to climb up, the same gear you use to come down.. if you are using only brakes to slow down while descending..in an event should the brakes overheat or fail.. well lets not just get there!

youtube, yamaha india channel has a video talking about braking techniques and also giving a small demo of how engine braking functions.. since all riders have already put in their perspective i shall not blabber more on the subject.

so neutral and shutting off engine absolutely nono..



cheers

Just don't drop down too many gears, your rear wheel can lock up or rotate at a slower speed than the front wheel, causing you to slide unexpectantly or deliberately :P

Hi guys

Last week my first free service was completed. But the bike still feels hard while shifting gear and also the engine is not smooth... any advice is appreciated.

thankyou ashwin and shv18
now that d.i.y is extremely well explained,but before going for it i must gather more info and observe the parts to be opened and adjusted.
one more-can excessive deposit of carbon lead to tappet settings go wrong,make the engine vibrate or overheat it(apart from improper afr)?

Re: Yamaha FZ-16



No, not the R15, it's fazer



Sent from my WT19i

Nope! Carbon deposits wont cause tappet setting to go wrong. And in FZ since you're opening head cover you can clean the valves as well. Hows your clutch?

It'll get better.... Dont worry.... Whats your ODO reading??

Clocked 1136Km..

WOW, not even 1,500kms and already having issues?

Just curious, what run in procedure did you use?
By the book/manual
Motorman (lots of throttle, RPM)
Inbetween.

I have followed the Yamaha manual...

Okay so you've stayed below the stated RPMs. No issues, but since your engine hasn't been strained much, the engine internals have not worn enough to be smooth.
It'll i'mprove over time. You've already completed 1k KMs, now its time to open up the throttle and give her what she wants.
Start riding harder, shift at 4.5-5k rpm, rev up to 7k rpm in all gears, and ,as long as its safe to do so (not in city traffic), take it to high speeds (80+). The point is to give the engine a workout.
Also change the engine oil and oil filter regularly. Preferably use Motul.
You'll definitely see the difference by the time you hit 2k on the odo.

Cheers!!

The greeting

@All: After almost 4 months i had finally had the chance to get my hands on my FZ-X. She is fine and happy. Started up in one single crank. But then yes 4 months has taken a toll on her. Seems my friend was busy using the rear brakes too much so as a result the brake bite has gone down and the horn is making weird noise like someone choked it Also i believe, he was running to close to tank with vapours only. As a result a lot of petrol gum and dirt has flown inside the fuel filter (if i have understood it correctly. Folks please help me identify the part correctly). It has overflowed and spilled out gooey stuff all over.

Below are images of the same:





I spoke to abhimanyu31 and he suggested that i get it replaced. My bike is at times jerking and not revving freely. So more or less it is a lesson to all especially guys living near coastal areas; donot run your bike too long on reserve or else this will happen. Deville if you are reading this, please help me identify and quote me a cost of the same.

I will go for a system G treatment right after i get this fuel filter replaced. Regardless she is going under the knife post new year celebrations. I am going for rear tire replacement today so shall update you all regarding prices and choices in Mumbai.

Cheers,