Thanks Boss

There seems to be more questions being raised by people about their engine who follow the gentle gentle run in method described in the manual than those who go out and ride it "normally"
Perhaps we can run a poll and see the results?
Only thing is there won't be that many who have NOT followed the rules so the stats may be inconclusive.

I just want to point out that I've ridden mine hard from day 1 and (touch wood) nothing has gone wrong. Others I know have done the same and have had similar results.


I'd like to take this opportunity to wish all our fellow XBHP members, their families and associates a Happy and Safe 2013.

Drain the tank, fuel lines and carb.
Open the filter up and replace it, (my 2011 doesn't have a "filter" as such, just a empty cylinder/casing so I've put a filter on)
Open the carb and unscrew the jets, get fine wire and poke it through the holes, blow compressed air through them to make sure they are cleaned,
clean the rest of the carb.
Assemble the carb.
Flush the tank, fuel lines to your carb with fresh fuel until its clean coming out
Then you can connect your carb and fuel lines.

There is no issue with your bike.. Just stop using the yamalube oil svc is putting in and try any semisynthetic oil. Motul 15w50 5100 or the Yamalube 15w50 used in R15 is a very good option. Will cost around 500. If you cant put in such an investment use Shell Advance AX7 10w40 costing 326 rs. It will solve the roughness you are encountering.

Happy new year to all.

151 bucks. Now comes without fuel filter like madmik said

Treatment, Tire Change and goodies for my FZ-X

@All: First and foremost, wish you all a very happy new year. As mentioned earlier, i had already decided that before she goes under a knife she has to be in working condition till i can get my hands on the kits and would like to treat her with a nice wash and due replacements.


Anways here it goes:

1) As mentioned earlier, the fuel stop cork assembly had got loaded with filth and dirt. She was coughing badly and just would refuse to accept my throttle inputs when in the rev range of below 4k rpm. Got it replaced from a local mechanic. Although personally i am really not happy nor comfortable doing it outside my trusted SVC, Kamla Yamaha but due to time constraints i had to get it replaced asap. Total cost 190 bucks INR including workmanship. Thanks Mik for your suggestions and Deville for the price quote. I shall get all that done within a week's time. The whole bike will receive a thorough inspection and a new heart. Below is an image of the old stop cork assembly:



The local mechanic had made my bike lie down on the right side to get better access to the assembly which made me really uncomfortable but due to time constraints and her constant coughing forced me to make a compromise this time. I shall immediately get it replaced the moment she goes for her servicing.

2) The Fuel meter has stopped working, only shows me blinking reserve even after filling a good 7 ltrs of fresh fuel. I guess its most likely due to rust or gum formation on the joints of the flotation device. So that will be taken care of during tank overhaul and fuel lines clean up.

3) Tires: I was in a big big dilemma today when i went to get the rear replaced and look for an appropriate option. I was all in to go for the Dunlop tuffgrip tires at Metro tyres, Grant Road Mumbai. However, they didn't have it in stock. They were trying to hard sell me Kings tire with similar grooves as stock but with a 140-70-17 tire. Somehow i didn't feel comfortable looking at the tire and the brand (may be i am just an idiot). They quoted me IIRC tires for 6800 INR which was way out of my planned budget and PSDs are available only in 130-70-17 config . So thinking of my history and satisfaction with the stock MRF tires and the sweet price of 2700 INR including fitting charges sounded nice to me so i went for it.

Bear with me on this: i chose to go to stock instead of any other brands as since last 23k kms the stock tires have troubled me only 3 times and that too only because of my stupidity by using b roads which are nail infested in India as most of us are aware of. I had also consulted abhimanyu31 regarding the same and then took the decision of going ahead with the stock tires.

The first thing that i noticed right after changing to brand new rear is that the bike was behaving completely different. Unlike popular concept in India of using a tire till its grows bald, i now understood what happens to her the moment she puts on new shoes.. or rather should i say one new shoe ... The rear suspension firmed up.. she was an absolute bliss around the corners and also now my bike was able to handle pot holes much easily. Most likely, the old tire walls were becoming weak and all that was reflecting on her handling as well. I would recommend eager rider not to drag a tire beyond its life and replace it when needed... makes a hell lot of difference in the overall feel and braking and handling too.. believe me!!

Below are the images of RIDE ON TPS inside the old tire and then the new stock MRF 140-60-17 profile tire.



Ride on TPS after 16,000 kms of usage inside the old tire. Notice it is sticky and thick. It is bio degradable in nature so is harmless to mother earth and can be washed off easily with water. Highly recommended.



New Stock MRF rear tire. NEw tire will also get Ride on TPS treatment soon right after the RC Mods.

4) I decided that pre new year she should receive some gifts of lubes and cleaners from my end so here they are :



From L to R: System 23, WD 40 Biiig Can and Motul chain lube.

System G was unavailable in my trusted shop so decided to try out system 23.


Cheers,

thanks for clearing the doubt.the clutch is alright,normal pickup,no slipping,smooth gear shifts.but i do get the clutch lever free play adjusted from the svc.

Hello guys, have anyone here changed the chain covers with the new one? The new ones are coming with downside protection too. Are those a direct fit? Just wanted to know if any one of you have changed to those new ones... Cheers.

^ There are 2 parts to the chain cover, upper & lower. Probably no change in the upper one. So no need to change it, unless you have damaged the original.
The lower one, you won't be able to fit it directly on the swing arm, you will need to weld 2 clips with nuts on the swing arm first. Easy, but do with caution. Also check the availability of the new chain cover in SVC.

Re: Yamaha FZ-16

Bought mine on Nov 2011 and it has a fuel filter inside.



Sent from my WT19i

@segagt-the lower part of the chain cover will become a direct fit if you weld a small clamp on the lower part of the swing arm,if available buy it separately and get the clamp welded accordingly.

Thanks for the reply guys. One more question, how much more effective is the new chain cover compared to the older one? Is it worth an upgrade?

Shiv, recommend you to try out Motul Chain Cleaner also, cleans the chain like nothing else.
I was amazed to see my chain shining after using it

Costs about 420 bucks here in Bangalore. And if used well it lasts about 5 cleanings. Considering you clean ur chain after 300km, it'll last 1500Km.

Cheers!!

Thanks arijitmaniac. I do have the Motul cleaner with me.. but i usually give the chain for diesel wash and thorough cleaning. Anyways, today morning i tried to start her but then she simply refused to receive any throttle response from my end. SO more or less like Mik had recommended the fuel lines, carb and the jets have become clogged and need to be cleaned. I have fixed up an appointment tomorrow with Kamla Yamaha, Mumbai and will have to tow her to the SVC. She will be given a thorough treatment and then necessary parts shall be replaced, tank cleaned and parts greased. I believe she is letting me know that she is pissed off that for 4 months i have not taken her out for a ride .

Will keep you guys posted.

Cheers,

Unplug and replug the green connector under tank. I had the same issue when they removed tank for fuel tap replacement.