Bro,

If you read trustvishwas's thread on his journey to Leh, the FZ he used was stock. It gave him trouble while doing an ascent somewhere around 12-14000 ft where no matter how much he revved the bike just won't generate any power. You need to lean tune your ride when going up to such an altitude and not making it richer. From what I can understand reading the advise given to you by the YFS guy is to change the position of the carb slide or rather jam it to allow more air inside the combustion chamber. Hope this is clear to you now. If you put more fuel in the AFR for high altitude you are literally drowning the engine with too much fuel leading to incomplete combustion.

That's why is was suggested that you spend time with a local mechanic to understand the lean tuning better and if needed jam the carb slide to a certain position to reduce or increase the air flow as per needed.

Stock BS26 carb has certain limitations mate.

I shall confirm if the soup FZ handles cold and harsh high altitude terrain better once I am done with the build. Two key components are missing from the kit, the 29mm CV Carb and the new engine head ported from RC.

Cheers,

Bro please read my post carefully, the YFS guy suggest me to up the needle jet by one position, by doing that the carb will get more fuel in mid-range of throttle opening. My moto was to get more air (oxygen) not fuel. Yes BS26 has its limitations, but you can manipulate it under the given limitations, right, by playing with its jets, needles & screws.
Need a solution mate.

Hi Kauria,
Fz has a fuel screw, so if I understand correctly by opening (turning anti clockwise) you let more fuel in, while there was no improvement in the air supply. And if it is the blue smoke means, oil is reaching into the combustion chamber & getting burned. Rich mixture will have black smoke.
Refer this thread: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...airfilter.html of carb tuning on Fz.

@shv18,muztariq,mad mik thankyou for your replies.
if possible i will try to find the weight of the two tyres,that is our stock one and the duke's tyre.i find weight so crucial here and not the dimensions because the type of fitting on the rim that revz c and revz give are similar.a careful observation reveals (with the fz and duke kept side by side) that the contact patch for both tyres is same but the extra 10mm comes into play on corners and that extra 10mm of rubber is more sticky(and the ride height may not change too.)
so what is the problem with 140 revz?when my bike (my mule) was 6 months old the tyres gave 'enjoyable' grip on corners but now(2 years) the condition is reverse. i've had only 2 punctures till now,rode only on road,and the treads are well retained.senior riders please don't consider me as an idiot little chap and stop answering my queries in the future.

@kauria-maybe riding with the choke pulled help or you can just remove the airbox cover and also make sure the carb is clean.you already know concentration of oxygen decreases as we climb up the altitude.

Thanks for the correction.. i somehow misunderstood your post. Anyways, for your reference please read the pointers given out by rider Trustvishwas on his last trip to Khardung la on a Yamaha FZ:



The small list of suggestions mentioned by Vishwas above are:

1. Install smaller size jets - They reduce quantity of fuel coming through and help in achieving better AFR.
2) Open up your Carburetor, check the main throttle body setting. Ideally it would be set at middle position. Change this to the higher/ top position.
3) Open up your carburetor, take out main jet, insert some strands of electric wire in it (to make the fuel opening smaller in size thereby reducing fuel flow) and close it. The mechanic will also try to tear off some layers of air filter but it is not required and ruins a good air filter. If you wish, you can get the air filter removed for rides to Khardung La, Chang La etc. and then get it fitted again after you are through with high altitude riding.

The above mentioned pointers are for rides going at 15000 ft and above. Personally i would not want to opt for option 3 which poses a risk of dirt going inside the engine.

Hope this was helpful.

I am not sure why are you comparing an engine of an aeroplane to that of a motorcycle. Both work differently and have different principles of combustion. Modern Jet engines have everything controlled by a computer which again alters the flow of the fuel based on the reading it gets from the sensors. Regarding your motorcycle especially if you are talking about FZ, if it is behaving erratically like refusing to go to higher revs based on your throttle inputs or say showing flat spots right in the middle of the rev range after you have properly warmed her up then you can look at re-tuning your carb's AFR. Plus if the temps go down to sub zero at Pilani then changing to a 10W 40 rating engine oil G power spark plug may help in better cold start ups and better protection of the engine and also lesser time needed for the engine to warm up to its proper operating temperatures.


Cheers,

Thanks to all the experienced senior riders here,I filled Motul 7100 Fully Synthetic 20w50 engine oil at 4700kms ODO. Cost: Rs.720. Absolutely loving the performance.It has turned my bike into a mini-rocket! What is the oil change interval? Is there a DIY for cleaning the air filter at home?

just to confirm...!! as my frnd said.......is 3 full turns of fuel screw is factory setting for FZ??...... coz i just completed 3rd servicing nd i got 55KMPL average....but it was not full tank to reserve......nd my tyre pressures are 35psi rear and 30psi front........also does weather has any role in affecting mileage??? just curious

How to open Air-box cover in 2012 model Fazer?

Anyone tried opening the airbox cover on the 2012 model Fz/Fazer?

I wanted to clean my air-filter but I was unable to access it as I was unable to open the cover of the air-box.

There is a rubber bracket like thing (dont know what is it called ) present here through which the inlet port of the air-box passes. Thus the only way to remove the air-box cover is to remove this rubber piece first. But the way this rubber piece is fixed (it goes deep inside and doesn't budge at all), it seems to be impossible to remove it without damaging it. Anyone tried it?

I checked in the manual but there is no mention of the rubber piece in it. Maybe it was not present in the earlier models and thus was not included in the manual and manual was not sufficiently updated for the newer models??

I'm attaching an image which shows the part highlighted for better understanding.



That rubber piece through which the inlet port of the airbox goes thru is the part I'm talking about.

Any help??

Cheers!!

Re: Yamaha FZ-16

You can remove it by using a little force. It won't get damaged, it's soft rubber. Pull it towards the rear of the bike and the wiggle it upwards (away) from the bike.

Sent from my GT-S7500 using Tapatalk

Re: Yamaha FZ-16


First remove the body panel(clutch side) that covers the box then remove all the screws holding the air filter cover, its a bit difficult because of that rubber thingy, but possible.

Then pull and slide the cover out. Sliding the cover will be tough as there is frame and some pipes connecting to the filter box, but possible.
After this you can access the filter also you can remove the rubber thingy.

Edit: http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6...34720412pi.jpg


Sent from my WT19i

Yes, Weather does affect mileage.
If say for example you are riding with a tail wind, you will use less fuel as the wind can help push you along, The opposite applies if you are riding into a headwind.

Hello guys, just wanted to share with you that our stock charging system can even handle 90/100 watt halogen. I plonked in two relays and put a 90/100 watt bulb a few days back to check whether it can support it. Normally ran for two days with around 30 mins of night ride with no problems. Today I did a 20 kms run ( 18 kms in city traffic and 2 kms in highway) in the night just to check the charging system support and it was fine the whole time. The battery did not get discharged. I used the self start for about 10 times and the battery was fine all the time. So this shows that if it can run for a good 45 mins in the city without any effect to the battery, the charging system is capable and strong enough to support the 90/100 watt bulb, i guess. And about the reflector melting, I think the heat generated by a 90/100 watt halogen is equal to a 35 watt HID, as my earlier HID bulb used to generate immense heat. So if the reflector can handle the heat generated by a 35 w HID bulb, then it should be fine using a 90/100 watt halogen. Will further test for some more days and report back the issues, if any. But there are chances of battery drainage if this heavy wattage bulb is not used generously.
Cheers.

Just got the Piston and kit rebuilt from SVC today got it all covered under waranty The bike feels smoother now just have to go through the break in period once again though.

When I took the delivery I noticed that they cleaned the bikes before delivery with some cleaner/polish , what is that cleaner any idea.

anyone had tried the below polish from Castrol ??
Bike Polish : Castrol Moto

Re: Yamaha FZ-16

Hey guys,

I just tried riding my bike but it wouldn't move. It started fine, I put it in first gear, left the clutch and started giving it a little acceleration like anyone would normally do to get it moving but it just wouldn't go. It would rev and there was a weird grinding sound coming from the engine. First in thought the chain was slipping as I just put new tyres on Saturday and hadn't ridden the bike since then. So I thought maybe he didn't fit the swing arm and stuff back properly. But it wasn't that. It seems like the clutch is slipping. I tried in All gears. Same problem. The weird part is I just rode it on Saturday, it was perfect. Couldn't be happier with the ride because of the new tyres. After that, today is the first time taking it out and this is what happened. I'm really bummed out. It happened all of a sudden and I do take good care of the bike.

Any ideas what it could be?

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