I see ,my uncle picked this up from Thailand for a very decent price, make seems good too. Also come to understand CBR 150 front brake pads fit CBR 250 front and also I see u talking about tyre sizes, I'm on a 140/60-17 tyre which I got for free as my conti go kept on puncturing, the front is still stock conti n back is mrf , I'm planning to change front n back to mrf stock CBR size, if I had more money I would go for Michelin with my eyes closed, also I see you've mentioned Ceat, how are those tyres? I imagine it's priced as much as the MRF?

soft seat is an option. you can get a gel addon. but let me give you some background info. the more softer seat you get the more your butt will sink in. you will make your spine vulnerable to every bump that comes your way. as for now the butt is protecting it on a harder seat.

you will get adjusted with time. the major problem is sweat. buy padded cycling shorts and wear them inside jeans/riding pants. they will cover for the soft seat part.

cost and manufacturer. P220 lines are also steel braided with rubber covering. those are also a direct fit for CBR250r.

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part 1 : i have done trips over trips over trips in past 4 years including ladakh. the stock windsheild works just fine. unless your helmet is loose i have not seen any kind of issue. times when i and many have toured in triple digits for hours without any issues.

part 2 : stock cbr speedo itself is 7% over optimistic. now yu have downsized the tyre and yes thats what is adding to the speedo error. and low FE and low top end.
move back to 140/70 - michelin, MRF, pirelli , Dunlop, Ceat .. all have good tyres in stock size..

part 3 : unless the saddle bag is loose or unbalanced it will not hit the exhaust. if you tried the enfield big saddle bags on cbr they are bound to burn.
run a bungee from behind the bags to either side and it will protect those.

that pipe look hideous man.. why would you do such a thing.
and that tyre for sure will kill your handling

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1. get the forks alignment and condition checked. also check for warped disc rotor. i am sure its the disc rotor. check the pads for uneven wear.
2. no bike will stop insttantly with any break however if you meant by you feeling the bite coming into picture after 5-0 meters then get the pad cleaned and rubbed.
if you havent changed the brake fluids then flush old one and put new one and repeat every year.
3. this is not even an issue unless you explain further . but if there is sound get the clutch cable slack checked.

Since you've mentioned fall to the right, bank angle sensor is what comes to my mind. Try checking the bank angle sensor, does your gauge display any error codes, blinking MIL? Perhaps the bank angle sensor just "might" be the culprit here, especially when taken a fall in consideration. Try taking it to SVC and check for bank angle sensor issues or fuel pump, I suspect these two.

Also do keep a tab on wiring, check for any loose connections, especially near the throttle body, check for any loose connections, let's start with basics, try removing and putting back the fuel pump relay on the left side of the bike, check any and every wiring pin connectors you can visually inspect and keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

I have now found the fault. It is a loose wire connection on the right side under fuel tank (with some relays). The relays are all fine, it's a wire that is loose. If I pull it out towards the frame of the bike, it starts just fine and if I just loosen it, refuses to start. For the time being, I have tied it to the frame using a piece of cloth and now the bike is starting just fine and now I can take it to Honda service center to get the wire connections fixed. In the process of all this, I accidentally broke the tank right side cowl and I'll buy a new one from there.
Figuring this loose connection was not easy at all. I tried to start the bike and it started fine but kept stuttering. While the engine was started and running, I started to check the wire connections and pulled this wire accidentally and the stuttering stopped. I then pushed the wire in and the bike engine stopped.
Thank you guys, appreciate all your help and time with this!

I have now found the fault. It is a loose wire connection on the right side under fuel tank (with some relays). The relays are all fine, it's a wire that is loose. If I pull it out towards the frame of the bike, it starts just fine and if I just loosen it, refuses to start. For the time being, I have tied it to the frame using a piece of cloth and now the bike is starting just fine and now I can take it to Honda service center to get the wire connections fixed. In the process of all this, I accidentally broke the tank right side cowl and I'll buy a new one from there.
Figuring this loose connection was not easy at all. I tried to start the bike and it started fine but kept stuttering. While the engine was started and running, I started to check the wire connections and pulled this wire accidentally and the stuttering stopped. I then pushed the wire in and the bike engine stopped.
Thank you guys, appreciate all your help and time with this!

HI,

I wanted to know what qould be the best service center in mumbai to service the cbr250R. This is the first service. The bike has just completed 1000kms.

If you stay in western suburbs, go to preetam honda@andheri east.

Cheers,
Sanjay

Hi All,
So I recently changed my front tyre with Michelin pilot radial (previous tyre was Conti's) and I have few doubts pls forgive me if its repetitive I tried to search the forum but couldn't find the answers.

• The tyre feels alot grippier so the front end feels tight especially when taking turns is this normal ? It even feels like I have to put extra effort for turning and feels like its pushing bike opposite side from the handle bar feedback. Is it because of tyres grip or something else could be the issue.
• How much tyre pressure do you guys maintain ? is it same 29 PSI or something less/more.

Regards,
Mohan

I also just changed my front n rear, but to mrf radials , it was on a 140/60-17 mrf n front stock conti , soo changed both together , bike immediately feels a lot more eager, climbing up bridges with ease, and 29 psi is perfect pressure for front, rear is 32 without pillion n 34 with pillion, please elaborate the tightness in the front, is it turning or cornering that's not upto ur expectation?

Hi All,
So I recently changed my front tyre with Michelin pilot radial (previous tyre was Conti's) and I have few doubts pls forgive me if its repetitive I tried to search the forum but couldn't find the answers.

• The tyre feels alot grippier so the front end feels tight especially when taking turns is this normal ? It even feels like I have to put extra effort for turning and feels like its pushing bike opposite side from the handle bar feedback. Is it because of tyres grip or something else could be the issue.
• How much tyre pressure do you guys maintain ? is it same 29 PSI or something less/more.

Regards,
Mohan

I also just changed my front n rear, but to mrf radials , it was on a 140/60-17 mrf n front stock conti , soo changed both together , bike immediately feels a lot more eager, climbing up bridges with ease, and 29 psi is perfect pressure for front, rear is 32 without pillion n 34 with pillion, please elaborate the tightness in the front, is it turning or cornering that's not upto ur expectation?

The tightness felt on radial is completely normal, once you're on the ride, however you shouldn't feel any difference from a radial or bias ply, but the radial would feel more planted and have more surface area in grip when compared to bias ply, especially during cornering, so that slight hard feel is normal, you'll have to get used to it. Also make sure you don't over inflate, a psi or two psi less isn't bad, anything more than 4 to 5 psi we're looking at an underinflated tire.

Cheers!
VJ

Cornering feels good but turning feels little different for example if I'm taking slight left and then adjusting to right the bike then there will be slight pressure in the left handle bar. My old tyre was pretty bald and there was no such tightness while turning. I checked the tyre if there's any woble but its not visible.
One thing I forgot to mention my rear tyre is Non-radial its normal Michelin and its pretty new.