That's incredible ; on a serious note, was he riding at constant 60-70 Kmph?

Kmph or Kmpl
I usually get 29.xx but my rides are mostly on SH & NH accompanied by high speed riding.

this milage was not achived on trip or on highway. it was just normal use of cbr like going to office daily and back to home in city and 50 % riding wid pillion.

just have a look at link in my previous post he has posted every details about it.


oops its kmpl

Bro, Did u manage the magical figure again. If so pls post so. M sure CBR is capable to do it and of course the rider .

Thanks all for suggestions, i got most of the rplies except one:
I got this info from Engine Oil UT. Does it holds good for CBR also???

Also would like to know which oil comes filled in new bike Mineral/FS???

It is true even for CBR150X to CBR1000X!!!

Replies in BOLD

Bike mount

Guys,

I'm sure if this topic has already been discussed before. I'm looking to fabricate a cost-effective camera mount on the bike.

Has anyone done such a thing? I want to have something that could be used to mount a point-n-shoot camera, not just the phone camera.

New bike from the factory comes with Honda throttle SS(semi-synt.) if I am not wrong.
I was also considering to switch to mineral oil when my bike had clocked 3K+, before i could find a good oil my bike was ready for 2nd service and did not do that.
My personal opinion is there is no need to go for mineral oil for CBR250R. I have clocked 9.5K on the odo with just 2 oil (SS) changes (@710km & 5800Kms). My bike is still running sweet. I am planning to switch to FS during the 3rd service. As against the manual suggest you would feel the need for a oil change under 6K kms.

Even I get the similar figures right from the day I started using and I am not a snail on the road either. I have noticed FE below 30kmpl only twice when I rode with a pillion at 100+kmph. You need not worry on this and it is not difficult to get 35+, be gentle on the throttle, choose less obstructed route, and the sweet spot for FE is 4.5-5K rpm. Atleast for your satisfaction take her once to the highways and she won't disappoint you .

Weird sound from the bike at stand still

Fellow cbr owners, I am getting some weird shrieks whenever I mount my bike.initially I thought that it was my chain but no my chain is all lubed up and fine.the noise is like when u are pumping a cycle pump and I hear it whenever I mount my bike at standstill and ignition is also off.hear this pumping sound also when the bike goes through speed breakers and pot holes,got my shockers Checked at service centre and they say it's fine,it's just a dry bushing in the frame .the noise is really annoying and want to know if anybody else is having this kind of issues and what it could be?help reply would be highly appreciated

i had tanked up my bike on the day of delivey....till date it had clocked 277 kms and only 2 bars have vanished...so i am guessing it will give me around 30-35 kmpl.... and i at times rev it hard uptil 7000-8000 rpm...generally it moves in range of 4500-5500rpm...

IIRC, Sudeep, Binoy or someone had this type of issue & they'd to lube the suspension & the noise vanished; they too took it to ASC each time & ASC didn't have a clue. and the solution was provided by Rahul or someone here after which the issue was sorted out. Pls go back few pages & check as I'm unable to recall the posts now.

Dr, hope you know too much of something is also dangerous!!! I don't doubt your riding skills or intent to say you should NOT be getting high FE, but, getting too much or too less FE are symptoms of something going wrong. But just keep a tab on the FE for few more days before taking any action.

Early review of the CBR of May 2011

It is still early days to write a comprehensive review of the bike: I have had it for less than a month and only 1210 kms on the odo. Yet, some issues are worth mentioning.

The Ergonomics. To me, the very first prerequisite for a GT bike is comfort. The CBR is NOT a GT bike but will be used as such due to its long legs. Now, there is a catch in the ergonomics. If one sits close up to the fuel tank, the posture is more upright, there is less weight on the arms and the back is strained less. But and BUT, one's crotch is jammed up and after some time, the penis and scrotum feel numb. Also, the edges of the seat press up at a place where the elastic of the under brief pinches on some nerve leaving the butt with a very peculiar pain, not ache. Not good, not good at all. So one shifts back and the rear of the seat is quite wide and immediately, the pain reduces and one is actually comfy, in the "front" and the "rear" if you know what I mean. But and BUT, within minutes, the weight on the fingers, the lower arm and the triceps increases to a point where one again shifts ahead. Thus, on a long journey such as the one I made, one is continuously moving back and forth, bartering one discomfort for the other. In the end, all parties involved are aching. After 80 kmph, the wind starts hitting the helmet in right earnest. A practical cruise speed would be about 80 to 90 kmph. Grading: Since she IS NOT a GT bike, 8 out of 10.

A word about the arm pain. Due to the posture, one tends to grip the clip-ons with fists clenched tighter than on normal bikes. This causes cramping in the fingers, the inside of the lower arm and the triceps. I am considered to have strong arms and shoulders and yet, it was a good 3 days before that typical nerves related pain eased. For these 3 days, it was difficult to hold a pen; the arms feel almost lifeless and ached like I had been hit on the funny bone.

Raising the height of the clip-ons by just 2 inches should increase the comfort level manifold. Once I have settled down here, I will get 2 suspension bolts machined with an extra 2 inches of head space and two 2 in spacers. This will turn the CeeBee into an excellent tourer, I hope...

The InstrumentationThe SwitchgearI would have expected a much higher quality of this on the CBR. All switches are strictly cost-cutting, parts bin stuff and have to be handled gingerly lest they break, specially those that are used frequently e.g. the horn, turn indicator and flasher. Heck, the Honda scooters have higher quality stuff. Grading: 6 out of 10

The Paintwork The quality, per se, is good. Two small bubbles have formed under the silver coloured paint of the inner fairing on either side of the headlight. When I tried to smoothen one out with a soft handkerchief, the paint peeled away exposing the black coloured base colour of the fairing. No accepted at all, Honda. Grading: 6 out of 10

The BrakesThe Engine. Till the first oil change, the engine sounded harsh, dry, scruffy and set my teeth on edge. Now, after 1200 kms/ oil + filter change, it is much, much smoother. The counter balancer does a fantastic job and it is only at tick over that the crankshaft torque causes the characteristic up and down heave of the chassis and those too are very small migrations from the horizontal. Grading: 8 out of 10

The Clutch. Is super light. The engaging span is generous so there is no sudden all out or all in kind of a response. The levers seem to be billet aluminium and are soft to the touch. Grading: 9 out of 10

The Gearbox. Is slick and positive shifting. No false neutrals. From the toe down 1st, it goes straight to the toe up 2nd without snagging in the intervening neutral. While downshifting it does, at times, slot into neutral and an extra sharp tap is needed to go to 1st. This is as per design, I suppose. The ratios are well spaced. These days, the engine is still new and 80 kmph is at exactly 5000 rpm in top. I think that with more running done, the rpm will reduce at the same speed. I personally wish for a higher 6th to get an advantage of about 1000 rpm at this speed. Till 4th, she will purr around town, needing an occasional downshift to 3rd. 5th is good for overtaking and 6th is strictly for the highway. Grading: 8 out of 10

The Throttle Response. On my bike, the throttle free play was set way too much for my style and the EFI felt jerky. It felt much smoother once I had reduced the free play to about 3/4 of an inch. Again, after the servicing, it is still better. Also improved in the response on wringing open the twist grip, especially in 3rd and 4th. She just shoots ahead and in a few seconds is at triple figures. On the highway, this eases overtaking to the point of being a no-brainer - just notch down one, twist, zip past, notch up one and cruise. Grading: 8 out of 10

The SuspensionThe Fuel ConsumptionThe Lights The high and low beam are both superb in intensity and envelope. Again, one stupid glitch: the right hand front number plate holder arm interferes with the beam adjustment rotary gear. As soon as I get some free time, I am going to re-locate the number plate to sit between the rear view mirror mounts. It would look better there and hopefully act like a splitter plate to direct the airflow over the helmet at 80 kmph +. The indicator relay could have incorporated a muted beeper to alert the rider to cancel it timely because in the CBR (big bummer), there is NO auto cancellation of the turn indicators a la Pulsar 200/220. Honda, this is really, really cheap. Grading: 8 out of 10.

Fotos I am finishing this write-up from Pune (on a few days leave) and have left my camera in Rajkot so will add the fotos on returning to Rajkot.

Summing up

Hey, sorry, sorry. I do have a CBR and have read the manual, just that the oil change periodicity figures were not correct. Again, sorry for that.

For all my vehicles till date, I have gone strictly by the OWNERS's manual service schedule and not one of them has let me down, right from the RTZ till the CBR.

Hey man, I am not putting up any misleading info here on purpose. Ok, my figures were off but the manual will correct them. The essence of the post was a) stick to fully synthetic oil and b) to the service manual schedule, that's all.

I myself asked my ASC about the warranty void issue and they were fine with the oil I wanted. Your experience may vary as far ASCs are concerned

Hi trueblue,

My 2 cents:

The rear suspension is a single oleo attached to the chassis at the top end and the rising rate linkage at the other. Take the bike to the ASC and ask the mechs there to change the rubber bushes at BOTH ends - as the rubber gets stiff, it hardens and the result is the shriek. Have you heard fanbelt shriek? Same funda here. If the bushes are ok, just a few drops of lube ol on the rotating oleo legs attachment points should do the trick.

Aargee dude, thanks a ton man. U guys actually helped resolve my issue, i sprayed the central rod on the monoshock with Motul chain lube and the damn sound is now gone forever, worked for me hurray!!! Being an XBHP member has advantage of getting some unbiased helpful advice. Thanks again guys all those who shared your problems and solutions.

Did any of you upgrade to better tyres ie. IRC or Pirelli ?

My friend got a Yoshimura slip on exhaust for his CBR 250R and the sound is awesome, on high revvs sounds like a proper sports high cc bike.Will post the video of his exhaust note soon.