after more than 7000 kms, i have noticed an awkward thng abt my heat indicator. It never goes beyond 3 bars, though i may feel heat blowing on legs or radiator fan running, bt the heat meter stay intact at 3 nly. It reduces at 1 nd 2, bt never goes beyond 3. Is it normal??? If not, anyone else who noticed the same issue??

You're talking about 7K, even after 16700 Kms, not even once I've noticed the bars going beyond 3 Lol!!! Be happy for that. I've done some insane (read cannot be disclosed) speeds & distances, but still the bar stays at 3 for ever.

thanks friend, i thought its somethn wrong with my bike only...

^^^ OTOH have you ever noticed that the fuel gauge is only a joker ?

, i was going to write the same... Is there smthn with the fuel guage as well??

^^^ Ideally it can't be trusted to a full extent. Partially the issue lies with us; for some reason I tend to believe that the damn ECM is dynamic & the way in which we ride our bike matters a lot.

I've ridden mostly in 120ish & observed noticeable variance in the FE; the worst I got was 28.x & the best is close to 32. Both of the times it was home-office commute during a week time on the same roads.

The way in which we accelerate, speed up, slow down, engine braking all these factors play more important than staying at top speed & staying there.

[QUOTE=aargee;789807]^^^ Black is a good color, just that dust is quite attractive on it.

aargee am just trying to upload a pic have never tried it earlier........sorry for the background...

you are right even though i love the colour its a tough job to keep it shining all the time......: )

Is that your bike Gopakumar? If your's pls post your review & experience with Akrapovic exhaust (isn't it?). Tks

Post 7600
Q. Ok, I've bought, what should I do now?
A. First, congratulations & welcome to the club; first & foremost thing you need to do is read the owner's manual thoroughly. Atleast get to know what're the contents covered in the owner's manual, even if you cannot remember everything

Q. Is the owner's manual available online in a downloadable format?
A. Yes, pls click this link

Q. Bored of reading manual; want to ride, what should I do?
A. Your owner's manual is the bible for CBR 250R, just follow the instructions provided for riding

Q. When I took the vehicle from delivery, there're some ODO clicked; was my CBR a test ride vehicle once? Shouldn't it show 0?
A. Ideally yes, but practically not; Very reason, they ride the bike to RTO for inspecting & applying registration. You're the best judge here for the fact that, calculate the distance from showroom to RTO & back; if there's anything super exceeding this number, then, your vehicle might've probably misused. Accept anything on reasonable run.

Here's another reason as why as one should not tamper with the speedo (Courtesy & many Thanks Icemang)

Q. Could it be possible the dealer remove the ODO cable & reset to 0?
A. The speedo/odo readings are measured by sensor without using cables. So its highly unlikely to tamper with ODO as its prone to be an expensive replacement.

Q. Can you explain overall features of my bike?
A. Your CBR 250R comes with 7 sensors (for ABS & 5 for STD), fuel injection (you don't have to turn ON/OFF the fuel knob & makes hard for fuel theft), digital speedo meter to show the speed of travel, ODO & one trip meter that gets reset for every 1000 Kms, digital clock, analog engine RPM meter, left right turn lights indicators, engine mal function switch, ABS malfunction light (for ABS), engine kill switch, storage space under rear seat, helmet lock wire, 9 piece toolkit, 60/55 DC headlight, 12 amps twin parking lamps, vehicle pass light switch, double over head camshaft (DOHC), 4 valves, O-Ring chain, rear tire hugger, rear grab rail, 5 position adjustable rear pro link mono suspension, 13 litres tank capacity with 10 litres usable (safe), 66/55 headlamps with full DC circuit.

1. OXYGEN SENSOR
2. WATER TEMP SENSOR
3. SPEED SENSOR
4. THROTTLE SENSOR
5. FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (For ABS only)
6. REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (For ABS only)
7. BANK ANGLE SENSOR


Q. If there's no concept of reserve, how can I check my FE?
A. Use the full tank method...
1. Fill the fuel ONLY upto the level plate (the one you see inside the fuel tank & the fuel gun doesn't go beyond this point)
2. Reset your Trip meter to 0 (refer owner's manual on how to do it)
3. Keep riding until the fuel bar starts blinking
4. When you fill this time, fill it to the same level as mentioned in step 1 & note down the fuel consumption in litres
5. Note down your trip meter reading & divide it by fuel consumed to get the average fuel consumption (eg if trip meter reads 290 & fuel consumed is 9.14, then the FE is 290/9.14=31.72 Kmpl)

Q. What's the good startup & shutoff procedure? Can I switch off the bike at signals to save fuel?
A. If you care for your bike, then every time you start (not when the engine is operating at optimal temperatures) the engine, allow the engine to idle until the RPM falls down from 2K RPM, it doesn't take even 25 seconds. This will also help to lubricate the internals of the engine which is good; ride like you're breaking in the engine for first 1-2 Kms, by then the engine reaches optimal temperature after that start riding normally (not rip off). Its worth to switch off the engine at signals, if your wait time is more than 15-20 seconds. Stop the engine using the Engine kill switch & allow it remain in the OFF position (or ensure that the fan doesn't run when you switch to ON position as the fan draws power from battery). Switch to ON 3-5 second before you leave the signal & start the engine.

Q. Why does the RPM goes to 2K RPM & then falls down when left idle? Is this normal?
A. The bike is equipped with auto choke facility; hence everytime the bike is started there's more fuel let in by the ECU & hence the higher RPM; once the ECU learns that the bike is warm enough (not optimal operating temperature) the choke is cut off & hence the RPM falls down

Q. Should I get the services done only at the specified intervals or can I get it done earlier/later?
A. Read the service intervals carefully; they say every 6000 kms or Y days/month; so which ever falls first is the LAST opportunity. This means, you can get all your 3 services done NOT BEYOND the specified Kms or days. Anything within it is fine. You may also choose to pay for the service (which ofcourse costs barely few hundreds). But remember, getting it serviced too often (say like 3K kms) are waste; just get the vehicle serviced when you feel issues like hard gear shifts, loud clanks, engine running rough, too much vibrations. Do not leave any minor issues unattended unless you know repurcussions of such issues.

Q. Can I get my bike's 1st service done before 1000 Kms?
A. Yes you can; but wait to feel the roughness in engine; getting it done in 100-200 Kms or around 800 Kms are overkill. Getting it done at right time is more important.

Q. I'm going for my 1st/2nd/3rd service; what all should I keep in mind?
A. Have a look at the back of the respective service coupon, it'll give you a fair idea. Just let the mechanic know if you have any niggles, like fairing rattle, paint peel off from engine/silencer shield, etc & do insist that the issues are written to the job card.

Q. My run-in is mostly in rain. Does my chain get affected due to this?
A. Not much, but still, if you feel the chain is squeaking, then take it to ASC & get the chain lubed. Usually ASC don't charge on such things, but there're instances where they've quoted even ridiculous amounts

Q. Is it compulsory to change the oil filter for the 1st service?
A. Yes, it is very important to change to keep the engine clean from finer metal particles from the run-in. If possible change the engine oil & filter once before carrying out the 1000 Kms service, even if you've to pay for the nominal labour charges

Q. Can I change the idling speed?
A. Neither you nor the ASC can adjust the idling speed; its fixed

Q. What type of Petrol can I use? Can I use Petrol available on highways?
A. Understand very clearly that that RON defines the Octane rating of the fuel; as of now there're only 2 types of RON rated fuel available 91 & 97. 97 is available ONLY from BPCL & called Speed 97. Per law, all the oil companies manufacture & sell 91 RON fuel. It is fine to run the bike with 91 RON; using Speed 97 will only help to gain negligible amount of increase in smoothness & FE. You can fuel in from any good fuel station including highways.

Q. Despite using a good fuel I'm experiencing engine knocking
A. The issue is with riding style; shift down the gear & the knocking will disapper. Prolonged exposure of the engine to such knocking rides will leave the engine in expensive damage.

Q. What're the available tool kit & how can I mount the helmet on my bike securely?
A. Pls see this post (Courtesy Sudeepnbr)

Q. Does the bike have a Side Stand ON indicator
A. No

Q. Why doesn't my temperature bar go beyond 3?
A. This is quite normal & it is a good sign of happy & healthy engine; Pls see this post

Q. What is the run-in period or engine breaking?
A. A brand new engine out of the factory needs to be used in a specific riding guidelines during the first few hours/Kms of its use. The focus of breaking in an engine is on the contact between the piston & rings of the engine and the cylinder.

Q. How should I run in or carry out engine breaking?
A. Follow what is specified in the owner's manual; it says ride carefully & no sudden acceleration (or deceleration) for first 500 Kms. Just follow that!!!

Q. Its confusing; so what's the max or min speed I should keep?
A. CBR 250R has a modern advanced engine that has slightly better run-in procedure than the conventional engine breaking methods; technically there's no upper limit on the speed, but ensure the engine is not overloaded. That said, a safe top speed might be about 115-120 Kmph on 6th gear.

Q. Why only 6th? What about other gears?
A. In any gear, DO NOT lug the engine OR over rev the engine. Lugging is the state in which the engine runs on lower speed in higher gear & revving is viceversa. Run at adequate speed & optimal gear. This is only an example & not necessary to be followed...
Gear shift...
1-2 at 3500-4000 RPM
2-3 at 4500-5200 RPM
3-4 at 4500-5200 RPM
4-5 at 5000-5700 RPM
5-6 at 5500-6200 RPM
and do a quick gear shift; this means, do not keep holding the clutch for longer time duration when shifting the gear.
Always remember...you can even rev the engine occasionally, but never EVER LUG the engine

Q. Is there any other better explanation for above? Can you throw some more light?
A. Once in a while redlining the engine is MUST, overdoing it or not doing it at all has their own consequences. Optimum regular gear shift is between 6000 to 6500 RPM; if you want a feel of the punch, shift between 6500-7000; if you need more punch its above 7000 RPM. Do all this ONLY after your run-in is completed, until then, DO NOT redline the engine

During run-in, its good to adhere to the following...
For RPM shifts between 4500-5000
- Shifts for 1,2,3 is OK (good incase of 1 & 2 as engine is not stressed as well as no signs of knocking)
- Shifts for 4 & 5 is about to knock as the RPM falls down (1000 incase of regular gear shift & 500 incase of quick shift) after shifting.
- Regular shift for 6 is CERTAINLY lugging when shifted at 5000 RPM & barely knocking when shifted quick

Q. After shifting the gear the RPM falls back; why?
A. This is quite natural behaviour of any engine; nothing to worry

Q. Can I follow the motoman engine break in procedure?
A. Follow motoman, pathlaman whatever you want, but remember, the manufacturer knows their machine better than anyone else. Besides, if you want to claim warranty on your vehicle for some reasons, following these procedures may void the warranty, if found. Point - Use at your discreetion which is not adviced.

Q. In how many days should I complete the run-in?
A. Per the owner's manual, it is 1000 Kms or 30 days from the purchase date. 30 days is max cap, but you're welcome to do it in 2-3 days as well (its little riskier to complete in 1 day & strongly worded against)

Q. When should I change the engine oil?
A. Per the owner's manual it is at 1000 Kms; but through collective experience & knowledge it is better to change the engine oil the moment you feel the engine is little rough. Most importantly, you should change the engine oil ONLY when your engine is running at optimal temperature. This means, never change your engine oil when the engine is cold or not been run for quite sometime. Ride the bike for 5-6 Kms atleast & then change the engine oil.

Q. I hear there're better engine oils like Petronas, Motul, Shell, Castrol, can I use 10W-30 FS one among these?
A. Changing the engine oil might lead you to void the warranty, so think twice. But the answer would be, yes there're superior engine oil made by different manufacturers in the market than HMSI supplied one.
Yes - If you think you want to claim warranty, IF at all there's any expensive damage
No - If you think you can afford, IF at all there's any expensive damage

Q. How can I identify if the engine is running rough?
A. It's easier said than done; for this one has to remember how the engine used to run earlier & keep it on a watch; try to complete the engine break in as soon as possible. The sooner you finish the better you can ride

Q. So after 1000 Kms can I start riding in 150 Kmph?
A. Well, its upto one's discreetion; for a better, long engine life, always follow the gradual increase/decrease when accelerating/slowing down.

Q. So ideally I should never ride in T.W.O?
A. Well you SHOULD sometimes ride in T.W.O; remember too much or lacking of anything always leads to suffocation.

Q. So when should I ride in T.W.O?
A. Strict NO for the first 1000 Kms atleast; but after that, try ocassional T.W.O or let's say REDLINE on every gear. Do this exercise on empty stretches for a distance of not more than 10-12 Kms

Q. Will REDLINING harm my engine?
A. Anything overdone yes will harm the engine. The number 10-12 Kms is only a ballpark figure; if you're experienced, try to listen to the engine through all senses & you'll notice a minor stress (which is hard to notice generally). That is the moment you'll need to stop the redlining

Q. Why can't I accelerate beyond certain RPM? Is this normal?
A. Perfectly normal. Accelerating beyond certain limit on RPM damages the engine temporarily or permanently & hence manufacturers have identified a safe RPM limit beyond which the ECU cuts off the fuel preventing any damages to the engine.

Q. The bike has more torque, can I shift from 1 to 3 or 3 to 5 etc?
A. Though there's no hard & fast rule, remember, this is a very very bad riding style; always follow linear gear shifts whether you're shifting up or down

Q. I don't feel the front brake are quite effective on my STD model; what should I do?
A. Please go through this post (Courtesy Sudeepnbr)

Please register your vehicle with this link for replacement; the excerpts from the link says...

Honda's Recently It has come to the Company’s notice that there may be a possibility of limited ineffectiveness in front brakes application in the standard variant of CBR 250R. But this concern does not impact the overall braking functionality and effectiveness of front and rear brakes under normal riding conditions.

As a responsible manufacturer, Honda will voluntarily replace the “Front Brake Master Cylinder Assembly” in your vehicle, irrespective to the Warranty status of the vehicle. We would like to request you to make an advance booking of your vehicle to avoid any inconvenience.

The problem will be resolved for all affected vehicles free of cost & doesn’t affect ABS equipped Honda CBR250R motorcycles.

Q. What can I expect in this recall?
Here's a small writeup as what one can expect...
Q. Can I switch to FS engine oil after my first service or is there any specific number of Kms before the change?
A. Yes you can start using FS from day 1

Q. What engine oil is to be used on CBR?
A. Don't worry on all these things; but for your knowledge, 10W-30 Fully Synthetic (FS) engine oil is to be used which will be available at your HMSI ASC. There are two types of 10W30 oil, GREY can which is mineral & BLACK can which is FS. Use the FS

Q. How many litres of engine oil should I use?
A. Again, don't worry on all these, but for your knowledge, 1.4L w/o oil filter, 1.5L with engine oil filter & 1.9 lts when overhauling. Quantity doesn't actually matter, just ensure that the engine oil level is between the min & max mark found on the glass window of RHS of your motorcycle (clutch side)

Q. Can I change my rear suspension setting?
A. Yes you can with the provided C kind of tool; turning clockwise from top is hardest & viceversa is softest. Ensure to do this from LHS of the bike. You're more encouraged to get this done at HMSI ASC if you're a first time user.

Q. I'm hearing a additional noise from the engine; what should I do?
A. Its more or like the noise from tappets, you'll need to check the valve clearance level & miay need to change the SHIM accordingly. Visit your HMSI ASC. Please DO NOT keep riding with that sound as it is bound to leave the engine in a expensive damaged in course of time.

Q. I'm not feeling confident with my ASC can I change to a different ASC where I feel they're competent enough?
A. Yes

Q. I'm from so & so location, tell me some competent ASC in my locality?
A. Please note, these are the summary observed from owner's experience on this thread
Ananda Honda, Bangalore, Zabi & Ramu (Pretty decent folks)
Saphire Honda, Bangalore
Vihaan Honda, Thane, Abdul
Om Sai Honda, Charkop, Kandivali, Sameer
Didar Honda, Chennai, Rajasekar
JSP Honda, Chennai, Rajesh

Q. After repeatedly reporting the issues my ASC is not resolving my issues. How can I escalate the issue?
A. Shoot an email to [email protected]

Q. What is the RED color pipe that is hanging beneath the mono suspension? Should I do anything?
A. A crankcase ventilation system is a way for gases to escape in a controlled manner from the crankcase; there's nothing to worry & every motorcycle has this. Just don't worry on this

Q. I feel there's a hole in my exhaust because I feel the exhaust throw beneath the vehicle in addition to rear
A. There's a small hole between the exhaust pipe & silencer. This is a provision for water to be vented out incase it gets through the silencer. This is normal.

Q. What is the air pressure to be maintained on the bike?
A. 29 for front & rear when riding Solo, 29/33 when riding with pillion. This information is available on the swing arm on the LHS (gear shift side)

Q. What is tank pad? Do I need to use it? Will it affect anything?
A. It's purpose is to keep the belt buckles and zippers from scratching the paint immediately in front of the seat. It doesn't affect warranty, dynamics or anything for that matter. Ensure to use a high quality tank pad to prevent it from peeling off automatically from the tank or spoiling the paint.

This is how it looks (Courtesy The Stig)

Q. Where can I buy a reliable tank pad in India?
A. Though not advocating, these are some stores where one can buy anywhere in India - Planet DSG & Performance Racing Store

Q. Can I stick them myself or should I take my bike to Pune/Mumbai?
A. If you can ride a CBR 250R, then you can stick it yourself; stick the pad from bottom most position nearly touching the seat & move upwards. Here's a guideline...
How to install a tank pad on a motorcycle - YouTube

Q. Can I remove the front number plate myself?
A. Though not adviced, yes you can at your own risk of answerable to law. Pls see this post (Courtesy hifisharu)

Q. Is there a Daytime Running Light (DRL)?
A. No

Q. Can I ride with my parking lights turned ON? Is that violating the law? Will it drain my battery soon?
A. Yes you can ride with parking lights turned ON, its not law violation; ensure that you don't leave the bike unattended by turning ON the parking lights for prolonged periods (say more than 5-10 mins)

Q. The engine heat fries my thighs, what should I do?
A. Either get used to it or wear riding pants. As long as the temp bar on the console stays 3 or less, everything is fine

Q. I hear a minor tick tick sound after the engine is switched off after every ride. What's the problem?
A. Nothing; that's engine contraction sound found in any 4 stroke IC engine

Q. Does my bike have a open or closed loop fuel injection?
A. CBR has closed loop fuel injection; more about open & closed loop here

Q. My CBR is ABS equipped; can I change to any tire, any brand, any tread pattern or any size?
A. The stock size of rear is 140/70 R17; you can change to any brand, any tread pattern, but never change to any size other than the specified stock size for a very simple reason it leads to speedo error & in ABS it MAY lead to poor braking. Be it ABS or STD, stick to OE size only.

Q. How long does the tires last?
A. This question depends upon several factors like, riding style, roads, usage, braking style, weather & so on. But to give an idea, the rear should last atleast 15K+ & the front about 17+K Km.

Q. I find the stock seat too hard, can I add cushion or foam?
A. Yes, fellow member has done this - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/812025-post.html (Courtesy Rony)

Q. Are the Gear shift & Brake pedal adjustable?
A. Get in touch with your ASC for this. If you're a DIY person, then follow this post at discretion to adjust the gear shift pedal - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/641622-post.html (Courtesy thefastestindian)

The brake lever can also be adjusted; get in touch with your ASC like our xBhp member did - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/843508-post.html (Courtesy samarth14feb)

Q. Why's the speedo cable missing in the front?
A. CBR 250R is equipped with sensor to guage the speed of the vehicle

Q. How good are the paint protectors, Teflon coating? Can I get it done?
A. Absolute worthless, unless you're getting paint protection film from 3M or Oxford U.K

Q. When doing a break-in the engine, how far can I ride in one day? And how much rest should I give to the engine?
A. There's no limit; you can run your engine even for 24 hours, just that give adequate rest, say about 5-10 min for every 50-75 kms.

Q. What're the benefits of CBR 250R club membership card?
A. Card entitles you to get some useless 5-10% discount vouchers at CCD, Naturals family saloon etc; it also entitles to get CBR spares with 5% discount for the 1st year from the date of purchase.

Q. Please shed some light on monsoon precautions
A. Keep your chain always lubed as open chains are prone to rust
- Keep your ignition, side lock & fuel tank cap always clean by spraying WD40 or equivalent (water repellent + light lube) unless you're happy to pay Rs 10000 + 14.5% VAT for ignition key set
- If you're a DIY person, wax the exteriors to repel water to an extent (though it gets dirty)
- Keep your tire pressure checked almost everyday as Conti's are well known to slip even in dry tarmac until they reach operational temperature. So in rains, they're more prone to skid




Note - Friends, if you feel that any other points are to be added, feel free to let me know & I can edit this post to put everything under one place with due credits given . Thanks.
Kindly avoid quoting this entire post, it's hard for members browsing through mobile. Thanks

PS - If you think this is some kind of sales/marketing/fan boy post, sorry, this is put up to shut up asking the same questions over & again

@piyush i agree with u the bar doenst go beyond 3.
@RG cheta should i check my valve clearance in the 2nd service??
hope to hear from u soon.

Not only in 2nd, get it checked when you hear additional noises from the engine. Reason being, it takes almost a day to dismantle & put back after a SHIM change. So if you check for valve clearance & don't change the SHIM, they still waste a day & ASC doesn't like doing it & most importantly...DO NOT touch something until it works fine

hi aargee its my bike........

i will certainly try to do compare it with my friends bike who has still retained the stock exhaust in terms of acceleration & post it in the forum,however i will still try to write a few differences with my limited knowledge which i noticed after fitting the slip-on exhaust.
Changed to akra slip on at around 1250 km just after my first service & now the odo reading is close to 3050km.
1.Not much difference in terms of initial pick-up but once on the move around 4500 rpm i can feel a surge slightly better than with the stock exhaust.
2.There is a prominent difference in through-the-gear acceleration,the bike seems to have become much more rev happy.
3.With the stock exhaust when descending a hill with closed throttle i used to hear a misfiring kind of sound from the exhaust now with the slip-on that sound is not there any more.(This slip-on is not very loud as it has a DB killer in it so at idling the exhaust note is close to stock hence with closed throttle the exhaust note remains much the same).
4.I have never checked the fuel efficiency but no noticeable changes experienced.
5.I was able to do max 125 kmph with the stock exhaust(because of traffic conditions) & managed to do a top speed of around 137 kmph with the slip-on again did not dare to go any further because of cross wind hence cant comment on top speed.
6.Exhaust note resembles close to latest generation of royal enfield bullets.The biggest disadvantage is when i am entering my society at night have to keep the bike in higher gear to avoid making much noise so its a kind of ....
being an amateur rider have tried to my best to share my experience, gurus pl bear with me for any discrepancy.

I value that review very much as I got what I was looking for

The performance part, I certainly would like to take the feedback from the Dyno rather than the street performance for main reason that no two riders, testing situations & conditions are alike. I go by the what the computer reading says

Good; I'm personally biased towards Yoshi for it has good reviews all over; I've got another 15.3K kms to go for any change I do. I'm not yet completed on my research for what mods to be done, but will put them eventually here.

Personally I don't like to open up the engine & work because its not a 2S IC; there're several other ways to carry out performance mod on a 4J engine & I'm biased on those methods.

yes i remember those good old days...... saved money by skipping meals to buy expansion chamber for my RX & yes it was worth every penny,porting & polishing took it almost to a different level altogether....wow what a difference in performance.....we are all waiting for you to do the remaining 15k on ur bike at the earliest so that u will come up with performance mod for cbr........

Araey boss!!! I'm not carrying out any performance mods nor have knowledge on those lines!!! All I've planned to do are (as of now; might even change later), in the order of priority...
- Get the front brakes sharper
- Stiffen the front suspension
- AM exhaust (only branded like T.B, Yoshi, Akrap or L.V) that too only after comparing the dyno chart, strictly no GoPro business!!!
- And yes, NO full exhaust system. I'll opt only for slip-ons like you did as I'm not really looking forward to play with ECU
- May be piggy back to ECU; hopefully by then Race Dynamics has one available for CBR; I'm skeptical for Power Commander because its not optimal between the high price it commands versus the output it generates. I might opt only for non programmable one

I'm concerned more with the longevity of the engine compared to anything.