Think I'm going to go with black C-ABS itself because it's my personal favorite. The ABS because you can never be careful enough on the road.

This question is killing me though! When are the new colors arriving? And I am guessing there would be a longer waiting period for those colors? Also, I am planning to book the bike in early may, does it make sense to wait?

I'd read on a site that while breaking in the Engine, the use of Mineral oil is preferred till upto 8000kms. Shouldn't 5000kms be a good time to switch to synthetic? With another oil change b/w 1000kms to 5000kms?

Also, a friend tells me when the type of oil is changed, it needs to be cleaned with kerosene or something so that there is absolutely no residue left.

Any experts care to comment?

That was the case with older conventional engines. But CBR, R15 and the likes come with FS and SS oil respectively from factory. Hence, there is no need to go the mineral way.

P.S - There's no harm in putting mineral oil, but the very characteristics of FS oil will be absent, the bike will heat up more, refuse to rev high etc. Stay with FS!

13k km with good and bad roads.. and i am still scared to corner hard.. feels likes i am doing a power drift unintentionally..

i could feel the tyre loose grip and get it back in that second.. my heart was in mouth.. happened quite a few times.. on dry tarmac.

on the black cbr i got dunlop tuffgrip.. and i absolutely love it... conti's are a pain...

i have had 27 punctures by now just in the rear tyre in past 2 months odd and if i show you the size of nails.. you'd die laughing..

And the bike is still running on the same tires? :O
I'm not sure how true this is but after a certain number of punctures, it's best if you change them coz the state of the tire will be in such a state that it's more prone to punctures. It happened with my old bike, that one had close to 20 in a matter of 5 months

My friend's ZMR had 5 punctures on the rear tyre and was is barely usable anymore. It started losing air at 2-3 psi every day and ultimately had to go in for a replacement.
@theironhorse99: Man, how did your Dunlops withstand 27 punctures?

Will 3M Paint protection help my bike paint from getting fade,dull and also help from getting scratches ?

BTW The bike is running butter smooth now after crossing 450 kms and anything over 40 kmph is like riding on water and gives you so much of happiness Perfect upgrade from my p220 DTSFi

Alright. But isn't it recommended to use Mineral oil at least for the first 1000kms? The bike really won't be revved hard either due to the engine break in, so it makes sense right?

And I have read that it is recommended to change the engine oil(Mineral) at intervals such as 100kms and then once at 500kms as well? The reason being the scrap parts that are worn out when the parts set in? Did anyone here change the oil in the same manner as well?

72xx km on the conti yes it performed lil better like after 2500km or so but still it is not enough at all ..scares me too.. ..the main thing is this tyre don't show any sign of wearing and don't gets punctured (after a wash the tyres looks new no loss of tread depth):P .. gud for riding in straight lines and tours inclusive of bad or no roads.. when better grip is required I go for 28 front and 29(or less) rear .. less than 29 is not adivisable though ..

I don't think so. The manual sets the first oil change at 1200 kms (if I remember) so there is no need to lose the balance 200 kms and get the oil changed prematurely.

AFAIK, the second oil change is at 6000 kms with the same periodicity for further changes. So, why change it at 100 kms or 500 kms?? The manufacturer sets the periodicity AFTER adjusting for a bit of rough wear and tear e.g. repeated increases in revs etc. So, if one was to change the oil so frequently, only the oil companies would be happy.

80% of the setup is done by the time the first oil change comes up. Metal filings cling to the magnetic drain plug and are removed when the ASC cleans the plug prior to installing it back to the sump. After that, the balance setup occurs over the next interval. After the 6000 km mark, the engine is almost fully setup. Any further breaking-in is only incremental over the coming years.

Modern engine design, with advanced materials and manufacturing processes does not need such frequent oil changes. If my memory serves me right, BMW cars in the EU have the first oil change at 10,000 km with the next change at 20,000 and from the third change, the interval increases to 30,000 kms!!! Indian conditions of heat, dust and humidity exact a heavy toll on lubes but not to the extent that one needs to change the oil at very short runnings.

My own query

I have seen an MRF tyre of 140/70 R17, 66P for the bike. It is a tubed tyre but have heard of riders used it on the bike in a tubeless form. The tyre seems to be definitely of a softer compound than our nasty Conti Gos and there is also a matched front tyre but with a 100/90 size.

Any feedback on the MRF, especially the rear? The bike is extremely scary in the monsoons with the default Contis...

The mrf tyre is I think Zapper Q.. its tubed tyre and is famous wid fz/fazer owners its grippier than contis its side wall is strong so can be used as tubeless..and the tread pattern allows better grip on wet tarmac..for front im thinking about duke's ..

yes i mean 27.. i have counted em.. day by day... 27 precisely..


this aint loosing pressure after fixed.. trust me.. it just work fine but its been 27 in rear n 4 in front .. started happening only in last 2 months.. i am 13k on odo
i plan to run till 15k and change both.. front IRC and rear to dunlop tuffgrip. again need to spend 6k .. year financial ending.. i hope u get it.. ( our hungry govt is drooling over my money for tax ).


sirjee the main reason for not going for tube type tyre is if it gets punctured in remote areas while you are touring .. there is no way out.. the side walls arent similar to that of tubeless.
also MRF used to give similar tyre in tubeless but it was a failure as being soft compound and getting punctured frequently . now they give it with tube..

i would suggest you go with dunlop tuffgrip stock size 140/70 r17 else michelin 130/70 , 140/70 , 150/70.. either of these..

conti is very hard compound wears less but the rubber below the tread is very soft.. not sure why would they make a tyre like that.. prone to punctures and no traction at all..

Please keep in mind - it's just a coating. So yes, it will protect your bike from the elements of nature and minor scuffs as long as it lasts. But the protection will start wearing off with time.

Then probably you and I and other new ceebers have a newer batch of Conti's. I am not saying that the grip is top notch, but at least I am beginning to feel more confident about the tyres now than I used to feel at, say, 500 or 1000kms.

BTW did anyone notice unusually high tyre noise at high speeds (a kind of howling noise normally heard from truck tyres) ? I am maintaining correct pressure.

Has anybody tried MRF RevZ S 130/70 17 (stock R15V2) on the CBR? Any reviews or thoughts about would it go well? (I understand that it is a soft compound tyre and much more prone to punctures but the level of grip is phenomenal).

only happens with low tyre pressure else running on concrete roads.. sometimes also seen on soft compound tyres...