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Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

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  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Originally posted by D.j View Post
    Guys today I noticed one strange thing with petrol reading.
    F trip meter started even with the last point not blinking ..
    Rode for 16km and then F trip meter went after 2-3 kms the last petrol bar started blinking and F trip meter came .
    Question :
    1. When exactly this F trip meter comes ?
    2. When the last fuel bar start blinking (as far as I know its when bike has exact 1.9 ltr petrol)
    Brother, the Fuel gauge is not accurate at all. But first answers to the questions.

    1. The F meter comes up when the bike hits reserve petrol.
    2. The last fuel bar also starts to blink when the bike hits the reserve petrol mark.

    Now the explanation. The fuel gauze is very vague to say the least. How it all works is, a float measures the level of petrol in the tank, this reading is sent to the computer which calculates the fuel level and displays it on the meter. This calculation is done every 10 or 15 minutes and the fuel bars also refresh every 10-15 minutes. Now this float is attached at the left side of the tank, so if the bike is on side stand, all the fuel goes to the left side and the level of fuel is improperly calculated. Now you start riding and the bike is in upright position, the level is recalculated and the bars in the meter are refreshed which are generally less than when you switched on the bike.

    Same thing happens with F symbol, it comes along when the last fuel bars starts to blink, and disappears after 10 kms when you have refueled. So the F is displaying, but then you park the bike on side stand, the computer recalculates the fuel because all the fuel comes to the left side, the bar stops blinking but the F does not goes awaybecause it goes away after 10 kms after you refuel. And you are left confused and irritated.

    This is the best I can explain brother, Sorry if it didn't made any sense.
    I would like to thank my legs for supporting me, my arms for being always by my side and my fingers; I could always count on them.

    Comment


    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

      Get stock MRFs. Cheaper and better than the rest. I have tried Michelin front on my r15, but its available in 90/90 as opposed to 90/80 stock. I found it hard to corner with this tyre. So agian I would say, stick to stock tyres.

      Originally posted by Funrider View Post
      Greetings!!!
      My R15 rear tyre is due for change, So suggestions and advice's are heartily welcome.
      Something that can hold good on dry and road road and can provide support at triple digits.
      Yamaha RX135 (1998) - Stolen

      Yamaha R15 V2 - Composure redefined

      KTM Duke 390 2017

      Youtube: CT39T

      Comment


      • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

        Originally posted by black asp View Post
        Ya the bore is stock, tried some dastardly experiments with the bike and had leaking valve seals. Opened up the bore the bore still had light honing marks and no scoring(none at all). The rings were a bit out of spec and my mentor suggested to change the rings if possible as the rings were 50k kms old. So just re-ringed the piston (stock bore )and its going on till now no smoke no oil drop just a single point drop in compression.
        The clutch housing well it feels yamaha don't know to make or don't bother to make good clutch housings(same following issues with my Rx135 too). I am on my 3rd clutch housing(tried repairing it with splendor rubber bush but it rarely works). Every 30k kms the "dug dug" (when the clutch lever is not pressed, once you press the clutch lever it goes to normal) sound gets irritating.
        I raised this issue 3 years back in this forum(page 600 something) but some "BIG SHOT​" rider here told me to shut up and stop talking gibberish.

        CHEERS...
        Somehow I feel yamaha clutches last really long. My friend owns Gladiator RS and i beleive it has crossed more than 1.5 lac kms. Odo cable removed some 3 years before around 90k kms. Out of curiosity clutch was opened and primary gear has been replaced due to some noise appear all of sudden from engine. Even after replacing clutch and other set that issue is not resolved. The clutch was as good as new. Nothing needed replacement. No smoke and no oil consumption. Its soo smooth and vibe free than my bike revs to 9k like crazy. This is what holding him to buy another bike. I bought pulsar an year before he bought yamaha gladi and till date only chain, tire, oil , brake pads and rear shoes were the only routine replacement. New exhaust and clutch replaced recently. I doubt modern yamaha have that quality. I bought yamaha though its a downgrade for me after seeing his bike reliability and nil maintainance
        Coming to the clutch bell rattle, i am also hearing that noise. Sounds like a bag of bolts. I can able to link why the noise was coming and I am sure its due to the method of clutch actuation . Its similar to cast iron bullet where the actuation rod pushes the pressure plate outwards (towards clutch cover). This causes the bushes to compress severely and develops play. Over time the spline shaft and bell assembly develops a play which creates rattle noise. When the clutch rod pushes the pressure plate, it arrest the play hence no sound from the bell assembly. This is my guess
        Last edited by vijaycool; 07-25-2016, 07:09 PM.
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        • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

          Originally posted by Ankey View Post
          Brother, the Fuel gauge is not accurate at all. But first answers to the questions.

          1. The F meter comes up when the bike hits reserve petrol.
          2. The last fuel bar also starts to blink when the bike hits the reserve petrol mark.

          Now the explanation. The fuel gauze is very vague to say the least. How it all works is, a float measures the level of petrol in the tank, this reading is sent to the computer which calculates the fuel level and displays it on the meter. This calculation is done every 10 or 15 minutes and the fuel bars also refresh every 10-15 minutes. Now this float is attached at the left side of the tank, so if the bike is on side stand, all the fuel goes to the left side and the level of fuel is improperly calculated. Now you start riding and the bike is in upright position, the level is recalculated and the bars in the meter are refreshed which are generally less than when you switched on the bike.

          Same thing happens with F symbol, it comes along when the last fuel bars starts to blink, and disappears after 10 kms when you have refueled. So the F is displaying, but then you park the bike on side stand, the computer recalculates the fuel because all the fuel comes to the left side, the bar stops blinking but the F does not goes awaybecause it goes away after 10 kms after you refuel. And you are left confused and irritated.

          This is the best I can explain brother, Sorry if it didn't made any sense.
          Thanks alot for the explanation brother ...
          I tried to do the calculation and understand this logic but have failed to understand.
          See, if I tell you that F trip meter resets after 5kms and not 10kms .. This makes the above explanation more difficult to digest ..
          Also this is the first time i saw this thing . and the 15-16kms were travelled by me in heavy traffic so the bike has enough time to recalculate everything..
          Till now I have noticed that F meter and last bar blinking happens at the same time ..
          I'll see this time also when the F meter come and last bar blinking happens and will update ..
          By the way thanks again for digging into this and explaining..
          >>>>Beware of Zombies<<<<
          The Best way is a Highway!!!!!

          Comment


          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

            Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
            Somehow I feel yamaha clutches last really long. My friend owns Gladiator RS and i beleive it has crossed more than 1.5 lac kms. Odo cable removed some 3 years before around 90k kms. Out of curiosity clutch was opened and primary gear has been replaced due to some noise appear all of sudden from engine. Even after replacing clutch and other set that issue is not resolved. The clutch was as good as new. Nothing needed replacement. No smoke and no oil consumption. Its soo smooth and vibe free than my bike revs to 9k like crazy. This is what holding him to buy another bike. I bought pulsar an year before he bought yamaha gladi and till date only chain, tire, oil , brake pads and rear shoes were the only routine replacement. New exhaust and clutch replaced recently. I doubt modern yamaha have that quality. I bought yamaha though its a downgrade for me after seeing his bike reliability and nil maintainance
            Coming to the clutch bell rattle, i am also hearing that noise. Sounds like a bag of bolts. I can able to link why the noise was coming and I am sure its due to the method of clutch actuation . Its similar to cast iron bullet where the actuation rod pushes the pressure plate outwards (towards clutch cover). This causes the bushes to compress severely and develops play. Over time the spline shaft and bell assembly develops a play which creates rattle noise. When the clutch rod pushes the pressure plate, it arrest the play hence no sound from the bell assembly. This is my guess
            Its not in my case. Infact the noise was there from day 1 and the bush between the housing and primary driven gear was so thin after 25k kms that the play could be felt through hands. I went through 2 sets more after repairing the housing once with splendor bushes. Still at max its 30 km then the same rattle increases in frequency. The same play is there in my Rx135 too. The plates last really long but the housing misbehaves before the plates give way.
            Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
            Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
            Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
            Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
            Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
            RX 135 4 speed(1998)
            Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
            Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
            Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

            Comment


            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

              Originally posted by D.j View Post
              Thanks alot for the explanation brother ...
              I tried to do the calculation and understand this logic but have failed to understand.
              See, if I tell you that F trip meter resets after 5kms and not 10kms .. This makes the above explanation more difficult to digest ..
              Also this is the first time i saw this thing . and the 15-16kms were travelled by me in heavy traffic so the bike has enough time to recalculate everything..
              Till now I have noticed that F meter and last bar blinking happens at the same time ..
              I'll see this time also when the F meter come and last bar blinking happens and will update ..
              By the way thanks again for digging into this and explaining..
              Happy to help brother. This fuel gauze is very confusing, I hope the answer made some sense.
              Feel free to update and ask anymore doubts.
              I would like to thank my legs for supporting me, my arms for being always by my side and my fingers; I could always count on them.

              Comment


              • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                Originally posted by chiragsthakur View Post
                Get stock MRFs. Cheaper and better than the rest. I have tried Michelin front on my r15, but its available in 90/90 as opposed to 90/80 stock. I found it hard to corner with this tyre. So agian I would say, stick to stock tyres.
                Thanks for the Suggestion Buddy.
                Miles Munching

                Comment


                • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                  Originally posted by black asp View Post
                  Its not in my case. Infact the noise was there from day 1 and the bush between the housing and primary driven gear was so thin after 25k kms that the play could be felt through hands. I went through 2 sets more after repairing the housing once with splendor bushes. Still at max its 30 km then the same rattle increases in frequency. The same play is there in my Rx135 too. The plates last really long but the housing misbehaves before the plates give way.
                  Even I was getting that noise from day 1 but I could not relate to bell noise assembly. There will be solution like R3 but yamaha engineers are not bothered as it didnt harm the engine. If you have any pics of primary and that bushing, please post here
                  https://www.facebook.com/TopCoatDetailersTCD/
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                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                    Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
                    Even I was getting that noise from day 1 but I could not relate to bell noise assembly. There will be solution like R3 but yamaha engineers are not bothered as it didnt harm the engine. If you have any pics of primary and that bushing, please post here
                    No pics with me man. Last changed it in 2014 (and all the used spares were sold off to a scrap dealer to make space for my 2 stroke bikes spares) in Bhubaneswar then brother changed it once in a SVC in Bhubaneswar and didn't bother to get the part from svc. Bike is in Bangalore now . But ya definitely it will need another change in next 5k kms. Whenever i get some free time i will change it and click and send pics.
                    There could be a solution but hasn't come yet. If left unattended the bell gives rise to harsh vibrations in the handle bars and foot pegs and experienced people suggested it may affect the crank bearings so i get it changed regularly.
                    It was cheap back when i changed it 2100 including plates.

                    CHEERS.
                    Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
                    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
                    Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
                    Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
                    Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
                    RX 135 4 speed(1998)
                    Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
                    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
                    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                      Originally posted by black asp View Post
                      No pics with me man. Last changed it in 2014 (and all the used spares were sold off to a scrap dealer to make space for my 2 stroke bikes spares) in Bhubaneswar then brother changed it once in a SVC in Bhubaneswar and didn't bother to get the part from svc. Bike is in Bangalore now . But ya definitely it will need another change in next 5k kms. Whenever i get some free time i will change it and click and send pics.
                      There could be a solution but hasn't come yet. If left unattended the bell gives rise to harsh vibrations in the handle bars and foot pegs and experienced people suggested it may affect the crank bearings so i get it changed regularly.
                      It was cheap back when i changed it 2100 including plates.

                      CHEERS.
                      How often the clutch bell has to be replaced? I havent seen the bell assembly, shaft and bushing, so no idea from where the bell noise is coming.
                      After going through several pictures it seems like the rubbers are like "Cush Drive" aka Torque dampers which take up the jerkiness from the engine and drive train. The rivets are just to hold the back plate nothing to do with transferring of power to the gear box.
                      Just to give the concept of how this works below pic will be useful

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Last edited by vijaycool; 07-27-2016, 09:38 AM.
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                      Comment


                      • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                        Hi guys....i had an crash from my bike two days ago,and it has serious deep scratches on the right faring and the headlight mask right now...and i need to replace the parts with an new one..has anybody got the same color-red and white 50th anniversary edition ? who had an crash before and replaced the faring's..as i need to know whether the new one comes with a good finish and decals as the stock one's where ?? And even i have got an slight bend on my right handle...let me know whether it could be fixed and bought back to the same old position as there are no fork bends ??And guys please do not switch on to MRF-90/90 tyres as these are the worst one on wet roads..try for the stock ones..





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                        Last edited by Jessel Paul; 07-27-2016, 03:01 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                          Originally posted by Jessel Paul View Post
                          Hi guys....i had an crash from my bike two days ago,and it has serious deep scratches on the right faring and the headlight mask right now...and i need to replace the parts with an new one..has anybody got the same color-red and white 50th anniversary edition ? who had an crash before and replaced the faring's..as i need to know whether the new one comes with a good finish and decals as the stock one's where ?? And even i have got an slight bend on my right handle...let me know whether it could be fixed and bought back to the same old position as there are no fork bends ??And guys please do not switch on to MRF-90/90 tyres as these are the worst one on wet roads..try for the stock ones..
                          Looks the fairing has only scratch. Give it to a painter and repaint the scratched parts. You can buy right handle alone and replace it. BTW the brake levers are nice.
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                          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                            Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
                            Looks the fairing has only scratch. Give it to a painter and repaint the scratched parts. You can buy right handle alone and replace it. BTW the brake levers are nice.




                            The scratches are not clear in the pic,but it has worn out deeply and no point in painting as i don't want a patchwork,so i would be rather going on for a new part..just wanna know whether anyone have replaced there faring's before..and the levers are billet ones genuine yamaha's with carved yamaha logo and name..
                            Last edited by Jessel Paul; 07-27-2016, 06:06 PM.

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                            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                              Originally posted by Jessel Paul View Post
                              levers are billet ones genuine yamaha's with carved yamaha logo and name..
                              May i know the cost of it. I am seeing unbreakable chinese made levers. This looks superb
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                              • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                                Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
                                May i know the cost of it. I am seeing unbreakable chinese made levers. This looks superb

                                Well im not sure about the price as it was gifted by my cousin..i guess that would be below rs1700.. even mine got rubbed off at the tip as i fell down even i need the same new one's



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