Yeah.. we did look into painting the entire frame but that would involve huge overheads. We spoke to the SVC guys and they were not too confident about dropping the motor and all the other stuff. We ourselves didn't want to take it up as we didn't have the service manual to put the bike back together.
Hence we just removed the body panels and used a lot of masking tape. Only the Trellis area is painted as of now. The entire frame will be done once we get the manual in hand.

EDIT: Even the tank would have to be removed to repaint the entire frame. Few more pics are attached.

saw a duke stunt spec bike with orange-white colored alloys .. looked awesome .. half alloy in orange and other half in white ...try it out ...

As a note for others, generally the "R" version of KTM bikes has ONLY an orange frame. The swingarm and suspension are usually left black, and the bodywork is white.

I apologize for my ignorance, what does R version mean?

Morning riding with my dad

"R" in motorcycle language generally refers to "Race" versions. the R series in Yamaha are all racing versions, Ducati has models like 1198 R (again race version). similarly KTM has race versions like 1190 RCB R, 990 Adventure R, 690 Enduro R.

These models usually have better performance figures compared to the general road going versions, but the definition of race versions is variable from one manufacturer to the other. while the Japanese tend to call the full faired bikes, their race version, the Europeans usually have better brakes, suspensions etc on the R versions in comparison to the regular road models.

As a note for others, generally the "R" version of KTM bikes has ONLY an orange frame. The swingarm and suspension are usually left black, and the bodywork is white.

Duke 690 and 990 have orange trellis frame, but they are not for race. Its a naked street bike.

That would be this bike, and it's how mine will be painted, except I do plan the orange frame as well. I'll probably go with a version of that black Duke's frame at first, just everything I can hit with color without dropping the motor and pulling off all the wiring. Later if I feel like it, I'll strip it and have the frame properly powder-coated. Also, I'm going to do the tailpiece and front fender in white as well, not just the tank and bellypan.

As a note for others, generally the "R" version of KTM bikes has ONLY an orange frame. The swingarm and suspension are usually left black, and the bodywork is white.

Allow me to answer.
"R" in motorcycle language generally refers to "Race" versions. the R series in Yamaha are all racing versions, Ducati has models like 1198 R (again race version). similarly KTM has race versions like 1190 RCB R, 990 Adventure R, 690 Enduro R.

These models usually have better performance figures compared to the general road going versions, but the definition of race versions is variable from one manufacturer to the other. while the Japanese tend to call the full faired bikes, their race version, the Europeans usually have better brakes, suspensions etc on the R versions in comparison to the regular road models.

Well not always I guess. True Honda Racing bikes have RR in the branding which probably stands for Race Replica. CBR1000RR for example. The R after CB represents 'RIDING' perhaps(CBR =City Bike Riding).
The CB1000R still has one 'R' but is a naked street bike.
It's a bit confusing deciphering the Rs in different manufacturer's branding. But yeah in general it holds true may be.

Yeah.. we did look into painting the entire frame but that would involve huge overheads. We spoke to the SVC guys and they were not too confident about dropping the motor and all the other stuff. We ourselves didn't want to take it up as we didn't have the service manual to put the bike back together.
Hence we just removed the body panels and used a lot of masking tape. Only the Trellis area is painted as of now. The entire frame will be done once we get the manual in hand.

EDIT: Even the tank would have to be removed to repaint the entire frame. Few more pics are attached.

@ MOUNTAIN, First of all thnaks for the detailed and clear reply regarding engine oil , that posted link was quite helpful ( the link about motorcycle engine oil ) , i did my bit as well and came to realize that its better for me to stick with SS till 4, 5k . now i am contemplating whether 15w50 instead of recommended 20w50 be as good, here operating temp varies from 24 to 32 as of now and by the time i change oil ie almost 15-20 days from now it will decrease in morning to around 15 and max will remain the same.



i have a question - first time yesterday i.e. at completion of 250 kms on ODO i went up till 7000 rpm in 6th gear, i noticed engine got bit vibey cross 5000 |( 5000 being the rpm which i generally do not cross) , I have read a case where since the engine was not revved beyond a certain low rpm during running in ie. around 5k for a bike with 14k red line hence when the biker revved it till 10k at completion of 1k on Odo he was simply finding it too difficult to reach that rpm.

Now what i am trying to get at is that - in this forum only, some have advised not to cross 5k rpm till 500 kms on Odo while KTM just says not to cross 7500 rpm till 1000 on Odo and never to use full throttle .

Motoman and some other web based sources advice to go all the way to redline in each gear from day one

Some say to reline once in a while but not frequently

Till now what i have done is (I) i tried Mountain's advice of brake breaking in and Kudos to it , it really works. I have no squealing brakes etc

(2) for engine break in - i from 0 KM on Odo on my bike never lugged engine as well as never revved engine beyond 7k. I during initial bike run let the rev limiter touch 6 k rpm knowingly and after that i generally change gear at 5k , 5.5 k .

Now should i occasional reach 7, 7.5 k for a minute or two so as to facilitate engine break in? any other advices regarding engine break in?
I hope Mountain and other experienced members will come to rescue

One thing I see, and this seems to extend to many here on the board, is why is there no consideration for running different grades of oil at different times of the year? Particularly here in India, at least in some areas, the temperature can be at or below freezing on some mornings during the winter, yet close to 50 in the middle of the day during the summer. So, run a 10W40 in the winter, and a 15W50 or 20W50 in the summer. Remember, oil is oil; the numbers just refer to how well it flows at various temperatures.

@mountain and nixtrix --- check this out...