I am not sure how to explain this to SVC guys.... coz this doesn't happen alwys....
For the first few times when this happened, i felt like the gear lever has only come off...

Haha, chill out man.. I think this is a characteristic of the NS gearbox. It isnt a major issue. I hope you've ridden the older Pulsars to know how good this current gearbox actually is (compared to those crappy earlier ones).

Btw, how many km on odo? I've clocked 400km and the gearshifts seem to be improving. Do reserve judgement till after you've completed your first service!

Mine is around 1000+kms in 20 days ...done with first servicing..gears have definately become smooth, but these once a while issues irritates me...

Oh, nice! Ima catch up to you soon.. My 400km is in 4 days! Did you put the Dtsi oil or something else during first service?

Please bear with me since this is my first post. Got my yellow 200 NS around a week back and it had clocked 11KM. Although I have ridden 4 strokes before, this is the first owned 4 stroke bike. My judgement may be a little biased since i've mainly been riding two strokes for a long time. Here are some of my observations which I will directly correlate to neoakshay's post since he's already done most of the homework (thanks neoakshay)

Engine & Mechanicals:

I agree with neoakshay the engine on the NS has a strange, clattery sound at idle as though there are loose parts within. This is more prominent when the engine heats up after riding for a while. The sound changes when the clutch is pressed and the engine sounds a lot happier. The bike is really smooth and does not vibe too much anywhere, including the handlebar and footpegs. There is no struggle to start the bike in the morning. It generally starts with one crank or max two. The engine takes a while to warm up and idle (around 2-3 minutes) and this I presume is because the engine is liquid cooled. Until this time the engine will die off if I leave the accelerator. If you opt to use the choke, it takes a while for the engine to realize the choke is on before revving to around 2500 rpm with full choke. The bike idles at 1400 - 1500rpm in a normal scenario. I say in a normal scenario since the engine has been acting a little strange on the idling front. Lets say I start the bike, warm up for a bit and now the engine is idling at around 1200-1300 rpm. I take the bike for a short spin (around 5-10 mins)and the idling is spot on 1500 rpm. Now I take the bike for a longer spin around 30-40 minutes, and I am guessing this is long enough for the radiator to kick in. When I come back to the building the bikes idling RPM drops to 1000 rpm, and if left on for another 1 minutes without throttling, the engine dies. Anyone else with a problem like this?

On the road, the engine is super responsive to the throttle and like everyone says it is really a task to ride this bike slow. I didn't think shifting gears was all that great especially 1st to 2nd. Shifting gears feels a little heavy on my foot and is noisy. I need to apply a lot of pressure to the lever to move to 2nd but subsequent changes are easier. The clutch was super smooth but the lever could do with a little adjustment to lower the lever and make it slightly comfortable.

Braking:

The brakes do a good job from 50 to 0 kmph and are really responsive. There is good play on the front brake lever but virtually no play on the rear brake pedal. That means even the slightest pressure to the rear brake pedal means engaging the brakes. I did not like this too much. I also heard strange squeky noises coming from the rear brake while pushing the bike forward (without brakes). When I got this checked at the service center the mechanic filed the pads and put them back on. This took care of the squeaky noise. However, I did notice that even without applying the rear brakes the pads still touch the disc. The mechanic said this is normal since these are not drums. Anyone else have this problem?

Ergonomics, Handling, Suspension & Tyres:

The ride is really comfortable but if you are used to some of the older two stroke bikes, getting used to the new posture might take a while. Especially with the front foot pegs being recessed. I could feel a little strain with my left fingers pressing the clutch after a while and the clutch could use some lowering. Apart from the turning ligh indicator switch which is horribly placed, the switches seem fine.

This is one of the stiffest rides I have ever had. The suspensions are rock solid and I am going to change to a softer setting on my first service.

The front seat is comfy for a while although a long ride may prove painful for your butt. The pillion which I sat on once is stiff as well but make you feel like the king of the world with the elevated stance. You need to be careful with water entering the space between the rear seat. Even with a light drizzle there was a little water which entered the area and slightly wet my papers.

I love the blue-backlights which give the bike a pinch of sophistication. The headlights are decent for city riding and the city lights are good for evening rides.

I dont feel the tyres are inadequate and actually give me a good sense of road grip even on wet roads. A good test for me is during the rains when a lot of mould grows down in my building. I see a lot of bikes slipping easily but it doesnt happen to the 200 NS.

Verdict:

A lot of people have made comparisons to different bikes but I really feel the NS stands out from all the others. It may or may not be the top in performance and its specs may be on par with the others but at the end of the day you know you are riding a bike with a lot of technology and could give some of the other bikes in its class a run for the money. Great buy. Don't think twice.

Yeah seeing ur riding rate u would definately... m not able to ride much coz of rains .... i put Dtsi oil only for time being....

Replies in Blue.. Well written review man, the NS is a great set of wheels! Congrats on owning one..

Try increasing the idling speed a little bit

Engine & Mechanicals:

I agree with neoakshay the engine on the NS has a strange, clattery sound at idle as though there are loose parts within. This is more prominent when the engine heats up after riding for a while.

I think increasing the idling speed will solve the clattery sound....

BTW are you referring to knocking sound as clattery sound...can you post the video of the engine idling sound on youtube....

[QUOTE=roshanfernandes;849522]Please bear with me since this is my first post. Got my yellow 200 NS around a week back and it had clocked 11KM. Although I have ridden 4 strokes before, this is the first owned 4 stroke bike. My judgement may be a little biased since i've mainly been riding two strokes for a long time. Here are some of my observations which I will directly correlate to neoakshay's post since he's already done most of the homework (thanks neoakshay)

Engine & Mechanicals:

I agree with neoakshay the engine on the NS has a strange, clattery sound at idle as though there are loose parts within. This is more prominent when the engine heats up after riding for a while. The sound changes when the clutch is pressed and the engine sounds a lot happier. The bike is really smooth and does not vibe too much anywhere, including the handlebar and footpegs. There is no struggle to start the bike in the morning. It generally starts with one crank or max two. The engine takes a while to warm up and idle (around 2-3 minutes) and this I presume is because the engine is liquid cooled. Until this time the engine will die off if I leave the accelerator. If you opt to use the choke, it takes a while for the engine to realize the choke is on before revving to around 2500 rpm with full choke. The bike idles at 1400 - 1500rpm in a normal scenario. I say in a normal scenario since the engine has been acting a little strange on the idling front. Lets say I start the bike, warm up for a bit and now the engine is idling at around 1200-1300 rpm. I take the bike for a short spin (around 5-10 mins)and the idling is spot on 1500 rpm. Now I take the bike for a longer spin around 30-40 minutes, and I am guessing this is long enough for the radiator to kick in. When I come back to the building the bikes idling RPM drops to 1000 rpm, and if left on for another 1 minutes without throttling, the engine dies. Anyone else with a problem like this?

On the road, the engine is super responsive to the throttle and like everyone says it is really a task to ride this bike slow. I didn't think shifting gears was all that great especially 1st to 2nd. Shifting gears feels a little heavy on my foot and is noisy. I need to apply a lot of pressure to the lever to move to 2nd but subsequent changes are easier. The clutch was super smooth but the lever could do with a little adjustment to lower the lever and make it slightly comfortable.

I think i have found the answer of your claterring noise... :0

That sound is from the

How an auto decompression cam works - YouTube

auto decompressor in the bike which works up to a certain RPM. It gets deactivated when the engine becomes warm and the idle RPM increases.
Either ignore it or keep the throttle slightly twisted until the engine becomes warm.

Even better video of how auto decompression works...and hence the sound from the head...increasing the idle rpm will solve the issue i guess...


What do you say?????

CRF 250 auto decompression - YouTube

NOt at all an engine issue .....

got my NS now very happy :P

No words to explain my happiness

Super smooth bike compared to my Caliber 115. Bid adieu to my 8 year old companion

Bike had run 12km when I got it, when inquired he told they tested it for 6 odd kms and it has 4km initially.

My dealer said he will receive the stock on this weekend, though not the red one.

Yet to decide between the red and the black.

Anyone from tamilnadu took the red one? The dealer claims that no one in Tamilnadu except Chennai have the red one!

Any suggestions?

yeah man its 50-70 bucks... These things are quite cheap in kolkata...and yes those are reflective types.... the original monster energy rim tape which is yellow in color and monster energy logo printed over it comes at around 240-250 bucks over here...quality is very good and looks damn sesky
Btw how is the front fork dive under sudden braking...? I dont like the way the fork dives in pulsars... and have a tendency to lock up the front wheels and skid easily... Is this rectified in ns?
@cali115: you shouldn't have taken delivery of this bike... Why the hell will he test someone else bike for 6 kms? And if its the mechanic then congratulations your bike had already been ripped by him....

Yes, the fork provides awesome feedback. Unlike previous gen pulsars, 200ns's forks are quiet stiff.

thanks man... and thats good to hear that the front is better...
Can anyone confirm the gearing on the ns? Can you plz post all gear ratios of all the 6 gears and the final drive ratio... And what are the sprocket combination..front and rear... Thanx in advance