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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences
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It is while during engine is off ?? I have been used to weird traffic sense in chennai mostly autowalas... i have been using Suzuki Access for the past 2 years and covered 20k km till now... Definitely during run in period will ride slower to understand the bike better ... Whether there is any cover available for pulsar 200NS and heard somewhere in thread bullet cover can be used any specification for it???Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View PostLast edited by pgaucha; 09-16-2012, 12:49 AM.
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Hi... everyone .... i have my pulsar done 360 kms.... for two weeks 70 percent city riding 30 highwat i have never exceed the speed of 68km/hr i check the mileage by reserve to reserve method my bike only gives 33kmpl
people are saying the mileage of the pulsar 200ns is 35 to 40 i really don't know where i went wrong ..... can i adjust the mono suspension to reduce the height in pulsar 200ns
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I guess the whole console cluster in NS (in general) is a bit shaky...but still try to check all the screws.Originally posted by sanyellow View PostI'm getting some sort of shrillness sound (although it is very minimal but noticeable) from the console, showed it to SVC guy today but he said it is common in all NS.. is to so? any one experiencing the same?..
Pulsar 200NS Tri-Spark - The Alpha Male
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I think you need AFR tuning for that mileage issue. Your bike may be running in rich mixture. I have completed 1800kms and the mileage I'm getting is 40-42 in city and 42-45 in mixed conditions.and yet to test in long highway rides.Originally posted by jenimu_kanna007 View PostHi... everyone .... i have my pulsar done 360 kms.... for two weeks 70 percent city riding 30 highwat i have never exceed the speed of 68km/hr i check the mileage by reserve to reserve method my bike only gives 33kmpl
people are saying the mileage of the pulsar 200ns is 35 to 40 i really don't know where i went wrong ..... can i adjust the mono suspension to reduce the height in pulsar 200nsLast edited by ajai5777; 09-16-2012, 01:24 AM.
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How many KMs have you done on the odo? The tyres too have got run-in period mate, somewhere around 200-300 kms (in dry conditions). Those are the hard compound tyres on P200NS. They go longer and provide low grip. In dry conditions, they work well, put in some slush, rains and they loose the grip. Use the right combination of front and rear (70% and 30%, roughly) and that should help you out. You can however go for different rubber if not happy with the current ones. You might get a deal if not used much.Originally posted by dilipb902 View Post
3. Tyres –
Is there any way of fixing this without getting the tyres changed?
Are you talking about fishtailing or shake?
Well, I was referring to fishtailing. And in fact today I luckily got saved. Rear tyre skid on a wet road on moderate breaking.
And as I said earlier the issue is not only with wet roads, but also with certain surfaces like those metal sheets which one can find on many Mumbai roads, road division paint, road division gaps etc.
Well, this is something I wouldn't recommend on a new bike. Popping up burnouts effects the clutch. I believe no one wants to mess with their clutch. What we feel more grip on a sunny day has got its effect by the dry tarmac rather than the warm tyres. Of course warmer the tyre gets, better the grip is. But these tyres are built to last long unlike the ones used in races or high spec bikes. The R15 V1 soft compound tyres might give you that feeling of "warmer=better grip", but it doesn't play that big a role in here.Originally posted by nishant.sukharia View Post[/B][/B]yes , there is a way. Do a small burnout...a warm tyre provides better traction than a cold one...its outrageous but works for sure...
That is why you can feel more grip from the tyres on a sunny day...
I am using MRF Zapper on my P150, factory fitted. I don't feel any significant difference in grip levels when I run them warm after a dash of 25-30 kms at 70+ kmph. The compound and structure makes the difference. Those are some heavenly tyres that work differently under different temperatures.Regards,
Akash Yadav
The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place. It will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it.
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nosie from mask
Ya buddy even I have that noise ,its kicks in especially between 3-4k rpm range ,sound like a sewing machime 'mmmmmmmmmmmm" .Originally posted by sanyellow View PostI'm getting some sort of shrillness sound (although it is very minimal but noticeable) from the console, showed it to SVC guy today but he said it is common in all NS.. is to so? any one experiencing the same?..
Guys can anyone help in resolving this ? and the loose nut noise from the engine is anyone else noticing it too ?sigpic < --BENGALURU-- >
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me too have the same issue. I asked the svc guys to fix it but it is still there.Originally posted by Vineet_200 View PostYa buddy even I have that noise ,its kicks in especially between 3-4k rpm range ,sound like a sewing machime 'mmmmmmmmmmmm" .
Guys can anyone help in resolving this ? and the loose nut noise from the engine is anyone else noticing it too ?
I today managed to get the carb setting right.
I first warmed up the engine for15 min, removed the right side-cover, set the idle rpm to a the lowest I can get without stalling. then I fiddled with the afr screw so the engine beating was just right i.e., in a rhythmic manner without ups and downs and hiccups. What I did was gradually turn the afr screw 'ANTI-CLOCKWISE' half a turn at a time till I got the sound I found right. Anyone trying should fine a nice quite area to do this as it would help detect unwanted sounds from the engine.
Will be taking her to a ride after lunch. and see how it will be at higher rpm.
I did this because i was getting that strange out of breath sound at specific rpms, and a little vibes also, the engine getting too hot even when the coolant is at an optimal level, there was a feeling of lack of power between 5000 and 7000 rpm and the pickup was down after the first service.
I also removed the tyre hugger and now the bike looks like what it was meant to look like.BreaklessBiker
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OK guys, had a good run with my DESTINY this morning. Some more issues noticed -
1) I'm still confused on which way turning the AFR screw gives a richer mix. I tried turning the screw anti-clockwise by 1 turn, and the engine stalled in the 1st gear.
2) There is something in the fuel line. Most of the time the bike gives a feeling that it's running out of fuel WHEN IN ON position.
Also its for sure that when the fuel knob is turned to fully ON position, the supply gets obstructed. I have to keep the knob between ON and OFF position.
3) When I am giving a bit of throttle, there is a rattling kinda sond in the console, which can be heard if very near to the console.sigpicRelationships change, evolve, and it goes deep.
Only thing I can say - "The storm is coming"
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Originally posted by sanyellow View PostI'm getting some sort of shrillness sound (although it is very minimal but noticeable) from the console, showed it to SVC guy today but he said it is common in all NS.. is to so? any one experiencing the same?..
Ya Buddy its the same issue from day 1.. Strange to hear that the so called "Svc mechanics" Cant even hear that noise.. I would have been atleast a little satisfied if they would have told that its common in all NS..
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The P200NS uses UCAL's UCD 33mm CV type carburetor. The AFR screw is a petrol flow adjuster .Turning the AFR screw CLOCKWISE reduces petrol flow ,and turning it ANTI CLOCKWISE makes it rich, from idle to 4 K RPM.Originally posted by Shibadip View PostOK guys, had a good run with my DESTINY this morning. Some more issues noticed -
1) I'm still confused on which way turning the AFR screw gives a richer mix. I tried turning the screw anti-clockwise by 1 turn, and the engine stalled in the 1st gear.
2) There is something in the fuel line. Most of the time the bike gives a feeling that it's running out of fuel WHEN IN ON position.
Also its for sure that when the fuel knob is turned to fully ON position, the supply gets obstructed. I have to keep the knob between ON and OFF position.
3) When I am giving a bit of throttle, there is a rattling kinda sond in the console, which can be heard if very near to the console.
If there is an engine struggling (even in correct gear) and feels out of breath turn the AFR screw by quarter turn ANTI CLOCKWISE to make the Air Fuel Ratio rich....turn only quarter turn at a time and observe the engine behavior...
Turning the AFR screw to rich position will give good Low and Mid RPM acceleration, but FE will become Pathetic....try to get a correct balance of good ,low ,mid performance with FELast edited by psr; 09-16-2012, 12:27 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Originally posted by dilipb902 View Post1. Suspension - Yes, the suspension is very stiff, and it has been designed to be that way. By default, it comes on 2nd Softest setting, you can get it changed to the softest setting. However, don't expect wonders from it. The suspension is made for cornering, and it excels at that. Also over a period of time it will also get softer.
I see. Thanks for the clarification. However, tell me how safe is cornering with the stock tyres?
2.Start –
- Not a big issues, just get the carb tuned optimally, and everything will be fine.
I guess so. Will request SVC guys to tune it well.
3. Tyres –
Is there any way of fixing this without getting the tyres changed?
Are you talking about fishtailing or shake?
Well, I was referring to fishtailing. And in fact today I luckily got saved. Rear tyre skid on a wet road on moderate breaking.
And as I said earlier the issue is not only with wet roads, but also with certain surfaces like those metal sheets which one can find on many Mumbai roads, road division paint, road division gaps etc.
Stock tyres are good enough for day to day riding and even remains planted while taking on corners. Remember all the reviewers get their knee down on these very tyres. However, loose gravel, mud, sand will immediately make the tyre loose grip. Check about the tyres after atleast 1000Kms. Also you will get used to the tyres and will know when to leave the brakes, so as to avoid locking the brakes. But admit, they loose traction very easily.
Matter of tighting the allen nuts, after that it doesn't shake at all.Originally posted by myth2104 View PostI guess the whole console cluster in NS (in general) is a bit shaky...but still try to check all the screws.
Still testing the AFR settings. But one thing is sure, that even winding the AFR screw clockwise to fullest setting, does not at all make the bike 100% lean. Thats the setting i'm running on. Bike atleast feels to be runing rich, and if i'm wrong, I would love to run the bike at the "leanest" setting if that's how it runs! Shibadip, you try with your bike as well, just remember the number turns you are making to the most "screwed" in position and see how your bike behaves!Originally posted by Shibadip View PostOK guys, had a good run with my DESTINY this morning. Some more issues noticed -
1) I'm still confused on which way turning the AFR screw gives a richer mix. I tried turning the screw anti-clockwise by 1 turn, and the engine stalled in the 1st gear.
2) There is something in the fuel line. Most of the time the bike gives a feeling that it's running out of fuel WHEN IN ON position.
Also its for sure that when the fuel knob is turned to fully ON position, the supply gets obstructed. I have to keep the knob between ON and OFF position.
3) When I am giving a bit of throttle, there is a rattling kinda sond in the console, which can be heard if very near to the console.
And definitely, turning the screw anti-clockwise, makes the bike show all the "lean" symptoms. Idle also decreases rapidly. Let see, at next svc I will get it checked with meter and see.
And that rattling sound is there on almost all NS, and increases with Kms on ODO, which makes it look like tappet sound.
Last edited by rahuldevnath; 09-16-2012, 01:02 PM.Been There, Done That; Better!
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Turning the afr screw anti clockwise did not work after all. The rpm would not drop consistently when clutch disengaged or throttle down and there was a cold start problem, so now tried the clockwise direction and set the idle at 1500 approx without any ups or downs. will try after the engine gets cold.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
Stock tyres are good enough for day to day riding and even remains planted while taking on corners. Remember all the reviewers get their knee down on these very tyres. However, loose gravel, mud, sand will immediately make the tyre loose grip. Check about the tyres after atleast 1000Kms. Also you will get used to the tyres and will know when to leave the brakes, so as to avoid locking the brakes. But admit, they loose traction very easily.
Matter of tighting the allen nuts, after that it doesn't shake at all.
Still testing the AFR settings. But one thing is sure, that even winding the AFR screw clockwise to fullest setting, does not at all make the bike 100% lean. Thats the setting i'm running on. Bike atleast feels to be runing rich, and if i'm wrong, I would love to run the bike at the "leanest" setting if that's how it runs! Shibadip, you try with your bike as well, just remember the number turns you are making to the most "screwed" in position and see how your bike behaves!
And definitely, turning the screw anti-clockwise, makes the bike show all the "lean" symptoms. Idle also decreases rapidly. Let see, at next svc I will get it checked with meter and see.
And that rattling sound is there on almost all NS, and increases with Kms on ODO, which makes it look like tappet sound.
[/B][/B]BreaklessBiker
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