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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences
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Check out tha last 10 pages of this thread. TUNING is what have been discussed the most.Originally posted by gagankeshav View Postand if somebody can either direct me or just tell me the procedure to tune the carb as this would be my first time doing that, i dont want to mess things up..
sigpicRelationships change, evolve, and it goes deep.
Only thing I can say - "The storm is coming"
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my bike is getting rattling sound from start to stop while going .... and the engine seems to be sound like mad while idle..... early the check the engine svc and told the raditor fan was running slow after adjust it it came to normal and again it started please help .... it hane done 495kms and i'm also having mileage of 33 please help me out guys
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Originally posted by tejas1509 View PostI will call him tomorrow and update the same here...
Btw my friends want me to buy RE ... i also had a small ride on 500 classic... but that being outta my budget, I have finalized P200 NS ... Hope i am making a correct decision...Ride safe!
O~`o
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Originally posted by gagankeshav View Postand if somebody can either direct me or just tell me the procedure to tune the carb as this would be my first time doing that, i dont want to mess things up..
Originally posted by Shibadip View PostCheck out tha last 10 pages of this thread. TUNING is what have been discussed the most.
^^exactly.. there were lods of discussion on AFR adjustments along with the pictures of tuning directions.Ride safe!
O~`o
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The Reed switch, is a switch which turns on when a magnet is positioned close to it, and switches off when the magnet is moved away. In all Pulsars this system is used for changing the Ignition mapping ,through throttle position..so it has TWO maps .One for idle and another from part throttle . This helps in choosing the right Ignition firing timing as the RPM increases..This is necessary because as the RPM increases the time allowed for the combustion becomes increasingly less.ie., If at idle of say 1300 RPM the combustion is , 1000 millisecond, at 5,200 RPM the time allowed for the event is 1/4 of what it is at 1,300 RPM. So the timing is advanced to maintain full combustion,and extracting maximum power.Originally posted by Shibadip View PostThanks Sir. As per your advice, will not fiddle with those things. But can u also explain what is the function of - Reed switch; Magnet; and the centrifugal filter??
The centrifugal oil filter just does what it's name says...it filters out solid particles floating in the engine oil by spinning it within it's body, and due to spin velocity,the solid particles are thrown outward into the circular filter's outer where it is captured and retained.This means when old oil is drained and new oil is filled in, the sediment still remains in the Centrifugal filter,and can be cleaned only by opening the clutch cover case, opening the filter and manually cleaning it.Last edited by psr; 09-18-2012, 01:48 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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That is excellent mileage figures. Is it after the AFR tuning or before?Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View PostEven I've had a similar problem to that of @ sree@mumbai. Everytime I start the engine I hear a rattling sound. The sound was nowhere to be heard once the engine oil was changed during the 1st service. A week later (i.e today) it's back again!
It's kinda irritating and gets me thinking "wth is going on in there?!" I've been maintaining my revs below 4k and just a few days back I began taking them to 7k once in a while. The vehicle's run 700 kms. What seems to be the problem?
Except for that,
1. Im getting excellent mileage of 47.432 km/l (reserve to reserve method).
2. I tuned the carb to get a mildly richer afr and the pick up's awesome!
3. The gearbox is like a hot knife through butter!
4. The brakes - The bite's too good!
5. Zero vibes! ZERO!
If anyone would ask me, I'd DEFINITELY recommend this bike to them. But someone please help me out on the rattling sound.
And is it alright to take my revs to 6-7k during the run in period, once every 50 km or so?
To make the AFR rich did you turn the screw clockwise or anticlockwise? And how many turns did you do - i know this will change for each bike but still give an idea of how much to turn.
My bike has run almost 800 km till now. Initial 500 km i kept the rev range around 5k. after the first service i have started taking it to almost 7k but not for long time. Try to keep it under 7k. Even at 6k the bike reachs 70-75 km/h which is enough for me at the moment.
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Hey shibadip, how is your low and mid range torque. I also need to do some tinkering with the AFR as i mostly ride in cities with rare bursts on highways. I do sometimes feel that the low and mid is not enough.Originally posted by Shibadip View PostWell buddy same thing occured with me. I bought it on 29th and put 500/- (300+200) of petrol, and last night bike went to reserve at 167kms. But the thing to notice is, the dealer gave almost no petrol at the time of delivery. and the bike has 2.6 ltrs of reserve capacity. (2.4 usable +0.2 non-usable)
S u got 150kms from 3.9 ltrs (6.5-2.6) which gives a mileage of 38.46 kmpl. Happy??
??? (Unless you are saying that the bike stopped after using the reserve capacity as well..
)
For me mileage was 42.82kmpl (167 kms/3.9 ltrs ). In that period, I was also experimenting with the AFR screw, and there was a something of 30-40 odd kms which I rode with a Richer mixture. I am still to find out the right AFR setting (happy with performance, but now have to check the mileage properly) and will give a proper mileage report once i do that [and the rain god permits me to do that]
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i've run almost 800 km now. And i do get the problem of false neutrals every now and then whenever is shift from 1st to 2nd gear. I think it just a matter getting the clutch adjusted maybe and the issue should be sorted out. Will get this done at the next service. The problem is that gear does not slot in properly and hence we need to release the clutch, press it again and then give a slight nudge to the gear lever to slot it to the 2nd gear.Originally posted by ajayfreezer View PostTo all the NS owners....
do most of you guyz have false neutral issues or it is uncommon...coz I am thinking of taking it to svc..
and the rattling sound has also started..
Rattling noise i think most of the riders have this issue - some face a lot and others like me have it minor proportions. I'd suggest to take to a SVC and tell the guys there the problem and get each and every bolt tightened. If you are ok with DIY then get a set of Allen Keys, spanners, screw driver and do it yourself.
Tip- if tightening the bolt does not solve the problem then loosen the nut and screw it again. This works almost everytime.
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Same problem I am facing with my gears. Today when I engaged only 3/4th clutch n started shifting gears, everything felt smooth again. This even solved the neutral problem. You can try doing this.Originally posted by sunilyo View Posti've run almost 800 km now. And i do get the problem of false neutrals every now and then whenever is shift from 1st to 2nd gear. I think it just a matter getting the clutch adjusted maybe and the issue should be sorted out. Will get this done at the next service. The problem is that gear does not slot in properly and hence we need to release the clutch, press it again and then give a slight nudge to the gear lever to slot it to the 2nd gear.
Rattling noise i think most of the riders have this issue - some face a lot and others like me have it minor proportions. I'd suggest to take to a SVC and tell the guys there the problem and get each and every bolt tightened. If you are ok with DIY then get a set of Allen Keys, spanners, screw driver and do it yourself.
Tip- if tightening the bolt does not solve the problem then loosen the nut and screw it again. This works almost everytime.
From which part of bike this sound is coming??Being best is not about beating everyone. It's about how much you learn from others and make yourself even better
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For me i think it is either coming from the right handlebar weight or from the plastic visor over the headlight or maybe the console itself. I need to take time and do it myself.Originally posted by ankur2smart View PostSame problem I am facing with my gears. Today when I engaged only 3/4th clutch n started shifting gears, everything felt smooth again. This even solved the neutral problem. You can try doing this.
From which part of bike this sound is coming??
After servicing the bike about a couple of weeks back i see that the oil is dripping (whenever the engine is hot) from the oil filter area. I saw this yesterday only. I think the screw needs some tightening there.
Any tips??
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What is a false neutral ? - Page 2 - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle ForumOriginally posted by ajayfreezer View PostTo all the NS owners....
do most of you guyz have false neutral issues or it is uncommon...coz I am thinking of taking it to svc..
and the rattling sound has also started..
Ride safe!
O~`o
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Here it is: Wall Photos | FacebookOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View PostHa ha.. can you post the link to this comment? I would love to particiapte in this conversation!
I guess he just shut himself up!Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.
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Totally agree to the above. There is no false neutral in Ns. The problem everyone is facing is shifting between 1st n 2nd gear. That I am sure can be solved with adjOriginally posted by rexrex View PostBeing best is not about beating everyone. It's about how much you learn from others and make yourself even better
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Go to SVC and ask them to remove all panels and refit them. Don't bring the bike from there unless they resolve all the vibs. Unless you pressurize them they will keep telling its same with all bikes and all such crap. Its their responsibility. And yes you need 2-3 sizes of allen keys which we don't have in the tool kit.Originally posted by praveen6585 View PostI touched 6000 rpm for the first time on my bike after buying it and speed wasnt too high as well.. abt 70.. (700 kms on odo and first service done at 550 kms) and the vibrations were INTENSE.. didnt feel comfortable at all and slowed down.. i dont think that is normal.. can the bolt tightening be done by ourselves? any tips? and will we need allen keys of different sizes as the tool kit given doesnt seem to serve a lot of purpose.
Center stand costs 590 buck or so dude...800 is too much.Originally posted by Vicky1586 View PostHello Friends,
I have been following this thread from the start when I was out of India and would like to thanks to all the owners for the reviews/pics/problems sharing/solutions. Found it very useful and this thread is full of information. Also would like to thanks to the buddies who helped me in What Bike thread.
Finally I am back to India and booked my Pulsar NS in red today at Abhinandan Bajaj Tolichowki with initial amount of 5K. The delivery is promised in 3 days. Took the feedabck from the saleperson there and he told that already 3 trucks are sold and P220F is outdone by this one
.
Total price quoted- 99221(with all company fitted accessories) + 800 for center stand.
I tried reading about engine oils during run-in and I am seriously confused.
I have made the following plan can somebody please advise if this looks fine and if not please suggest the alternatives:
motul 3000 @100 KM
DTSi 10000 @600km (during 1st service)
motul 3000 @1000km
motul 3000 @3000km
DTSi 10000 @5000km (during 2nd service)
motul 5100 @7500km
Then will try to get to a FS oil like Motul 7100 (300V is thinner then recommended I think)
Also can you guys please tell me that what is the correct amount of engine oil is required 1L(salesman says) or 1.2 Ltr.
Also is there any other precautions/noticeable things that I should take care of when taking the delivery??
Engine oil required is 1.2L for normal oil change and 1.4ltr for complete engine overhaul.
Oil change plane is good. See if you can avoid putting DTSi during service. What i did is told then that i recently changed oil and they didnt make any issue about it. Will do the same for 2nd service as well...
You are not wrong buddy. Its OK to change oil in 1st servicing. But it is recommended that one should change oil after 150km or so as the first few kms make the engine shed some metal (machining irregularities). But its OK to keep the oil till 500km, no serious issue..Originally posted by dilipb902 View PostI was of the opinion that it is quite ok to get engine oil changed during first service. Was I wrong? Does one need to get oil changed even before first service?
Stock oil should at least last till 1st service right?
OK, what will you call it, when gear is stuck between 1st and 2nd (bike doesn't move an inch when throttle opened up) and green neutral indicator is not flashing??Originally posted by rexrex View Post
Actually as I observe that the gear actually sticks somewhere between neutral (0) and 2nd for my bike. I can feel getting past neutral before its stuck.Two roads diverged in a wood, and I--
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference...
--Robert Frost
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