Woah! I am overwhelmed by the activity going on in this thread!
Guys suggest me what color i should go for!? I have already used a P200 Red for 5years.
I still love the red more than any other color but then guess it would get monotonous if I go for red again.
Next in line, I like the yellow, is this really the best color in the current lot? Should I go for it or should I check out the blue too?


And after reading the thread, the oil change part has really confused me, I want to get the best out of NS and keep the engine as smooth as possible.
So tell me If the current order of oil maintenance is perfect or not!

0-60Kms - Default oil got at delivery
60-550kms(first service) - Some decent Mineral oil 20w50.
First service(550Km) - Motul 3100 20w50(Semi Synthetic) also suggest some alternatives here!!?
550-5000km - Same Motul 3100 20w50
after 5000km - Some fully synthetic!

Will this do guys? And suggest some Mineral oil and some alternatives for Motul 3100?! Thanks!

That mileage figure was like 10 kms before the afr tuning. The odo showed 632 when i began tuning and now it's 717. It's gulped down 150 bucks worth petrol for that (that's like 2 litres). Pretty good right?

And ya, the afr screw has to be turned anti clockwise for richer mix. I followed what was on this thread and decided to experiment. The initial pick up improved but I've found a slight difference in mileage. Doesn't matter! 37 or above is okay for me!

The rattling sound? Any solutions?

for a normal street bike of 200~220cc an FE of 35 to 40 Kms per liter in city ,will give acceptable acceleration and speeds,with less engine heat....the right hand twist gives better or poor FE most of the time...

Blue looks very good too.

Your case is different Bro and it seems to be false neutral, please have it checked with SVC guys.

Just went to check out the colors, yellow looks awesome, the new red is a bit too dark for my liking, only blue wasn't on for display

Guess I ll just go with yellow, will book tomorrow.


And some views about this guys
Tell me If the current order of oil maintenance is perfect or not!

0-60Kms - Default oil got at delivery
60-550kms(first service) - Some decent Mineral oil 20w50.
First service(550Km) - Motul 3100 20w50(Semi Synthetic) also suggest some alternatives here!!?
550-5000km - Same Motul 3100 20w50
after 5000km - Some fully synthetic!

Will this do guys? And suggest some Mineral oil and some alternatives for Motul 3100?! Thanks!

You seriously are a biking encyclopedia. I had no idea about the above things.
SO now, reading your post about the centrifugal oil filter, I doubt whether the SVC guys actually open the filter and manually clean it. Do u recommend that i make sure that SVC guys clean it while at 1st service, coz most of the solid particles comes out during the initial stages of run-in.

BTW, 200NS also have a oil filter(which is scheduled to be replaced in the 1st service). I guess it is different from the CENTRIFUGAL oil filter. Am i right??

Yeah, after the tuning the LOW and mid range have improved a lot Considering the setting which DESTINY had in the stock condition. The bike rolls off with a carefull release of the clutch, even without touching the throttle.
But having said that I have not tested my bike for long rides, as it has been raining very frequently here. Have planned for a medium long trip, which can happen any day this week. Will let u all know the experience.
@rexrex - I too am waiting for your answer on the above. The same thigs was happening with me as well.

SIr, Since u have been so helpful, I wud like to ask two more Questions -
a) I have seen that NS although being a Liquid cooled engine, generates more heat than my earlier P150 having air cooled engine. This has been the case with most of the NS, so I believe it's normal. But Question is why LC engine produces more heat than a Air cooled one??
b) Almost every carb engine have a Fuel knob. What are the ill-effects of keeping the fuel knob in ON position over-night??

I don't know about your bike but in my bike the noise was coming from the visor. In the 200 NS the visor is not fixed to the cowl (like in the other variants of the pulsar, where they are screwed in) but is rather just locked into place and is held by the other two matte black cowl pieces on either side. Additionally, the visor is attached to the headlamp with just a bush with glue on either side (I mean under the tiny Bajaj Wings logo on the front) and the noise starts when the glue dries up or when the cowl detaches from the headlamp after a few jerks which is to be expected in normal use of any bike. I wonder why Bajaj didn't foresee this. Anyways, the only options are to replace the bush which involves dismantling the entire assembly or to just squeeze a tube of fevi kwik on there and hold it in place for a minute although the latter is mostly a temporary stop-gap measure.

I got my yellow 200NS about 2 months back. I have mostly used it for long rides:
During Run-in: Mumbai-Pune and back twice.Mumbai to Surat and bvack.Once. I did these trips at 70KMPH max and the head winds would be a major problem with cruising at higher gears.
After Run-in.Pune to Bangalore(900 kms in 1 day-am proud of the bike) and back.
Now this time around my bike had completed the run-in and i played only in revbands 8k+ almost throughout the ride. At that rev range the bike has decent power against head winds and if you duck you can add anywhere between 10-15kmph to your speed. Bike posture is super comfortable. My friend riding with me on a 220 got tired much before i started feeling anything. Keep in mind if you are eating miles the range of the bike is low as the mileage dropped to around 25-27kmpl after the third spark plug kicks in.

Two problems:
1) the stick 1st to 2nd gear shift: I have noticed this happens only if you shift in the lower rpm bands. If you shift above 6k this is rare. I think it has something to do with the amount of play in the gear shift lever.
2) Recently the bike has started making a noise(sometimes rattling ,sometimes like a forest cricket) at around the 4k rpm mark. This happens only after riding the bike for sometime...so I am guessing it might have to do with the radiator kicking in. If anyone knows about this kindly reply.

can someone please tell me where is the AFR screw?? The image is of the right side of the bike ..cover removed....

@shibadip....yes there is a oil filter in NS which is to be changed in 1st service, mine was.

Guys i just checked the coolant level window on my NS and noticed that there is a layer of yellowish brown colour on top of the green colour coolant, any ideas where is that coming from, it looks sludgy...

That is not a good sign. Get it checked, most probably it is getting oxidised

MG sir,

as you must have seen all the while in this thread...particularly in recent posts, that there are a number of problems repeatedly being told by many members. Stuff like coolant leakage, rough gear shifts, oil sensor behaving badly and having to be replaced under warranty, tuning going haywire, bike halting in the middle of the road, loose fittings etc.

Can you please advise members on how to deal with these things in a way that these annoying problems get solved once and for all? They just dont seem to be ceasing!

1. The P200NS has another replaceable filter for finer suspended particles in oil, which is replaced during engine oil replacement.
2. Please remember the Pictures I had posted are of Pulsar which is different from the P200NS...The P200NS bottom engine is same as KTM 200...
3. During first or second service as indicated in the owner's manual the Centrifugal filter must be opened and cleaned to remove the bigger suspended particles...there after it can be done at every 20,000 Kms.
4. Liquid cooled Engines run lot COOLER than Air Cooled engines....In LC there is a heat control through the LC ,Radiator, and the Cooling fan. The engine temperature will be stabilised around 85~90 C in LC engine, whereas in Air Cooled engines the temperature will go as high as 125 C....Whenever the Radiator Fan switches on to cool the coolant the Ambient air is sucked through the front of radiator and exhausted at the back, which will hit your leg and make you feel that the engine is running hot.
5. Keeping the fuel knob in flow condition or "ON" has no negative effect IF everything with the fuel system is ok...otherwise there is a possibility of the petrol leaking out totally if float is stuck or leak in system due to RAT bite happens...remember Petrol accumulates where it drips and a large leak will soak the ground ,and will be ready to ignite due to the evaporating fumes...