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**surampudijagadeesh** · 09-20-2012, 10:30 AM

Originally posted by sayank10 View Post

the vibration you guys are talking about is the resonance vibration,every bike has it.

May be but, the sound does get on to my nerves at times. It sounds as if something has come loose. I hate that sound.

And also it is not the sound from the key hole. I even tried holding the key firmly, but no use.

It definitely is coming from near the tachometer

**sree@mumbai** · 09-20-2012, 11:15 AM

Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View Post

May be but, the sound does get on to my nerves at times. It sounds as if something has come loose. I hate that sound.

And also it is not the sound from the key hole. I even tried holding the key firmly, but no use.

It definitely is coming from near the tachometer

Many have reported this problem and got rectified by tightening the panels

**sandysend** · 09-20-2012, 11:49 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS).....

Originally posted by psr View Post

....
4. Liquid cooled Engines run lot COOLER than Air Cooled engines....In LC there is a heat control through the LC ,Radiator, and the Cooling fan. The engine temperature will be stabilised around 85~90 C in LC engine, whereas in Air Cooled engines the temperature will go as high as 125 C....Whenever the Radiator Fan switches on to cool the coolant the Ambient air is sucked through the front of radiator and exhausted at the back, which will hit your leg and make you feel that the engine is running hot.
5. Keeping the fuel knob in flow condition or "ON" has no negative effect IF everything with the fuel system is ok...otherwise there is a possibility of the petrol leaking out totally if float is stuck or leak in system due to RAT bite happens...remember Petrol accumulates where it drips and a large leak will soak the ground ,and will be ready to ignite due to the evaporating fumes...

Thanks psr for the information, learning a lot from you.
about 4: So until 85~90 C the LC engine gets cooled by Air?? because my previous bike, fiero never ever felt so hot during slow moving traffic. 200NS gets really hot during snail-paced traffic..
about 5. I thought we had to turn the fuel knob off only in the older vehicles like Yezdi.. Again never turned it off on my Fiero...

Originally posted by Shibadip View Post

Uploading two pics of DESTINY

The demon teeth -
The sexy tail -

Nice pics bro

Originally posted by Speedshift View Post

Got the coolant flushed today and refilled with new one, the coolant was fine and there was no mixing with engine oil as well, just the reservoir had that sludge rest was all green and as good as new...

Good to hear this... Happy riding and thanks for sharing this with us..

1942, a love story?? Yes, I think so..

**swashbuckler01** · 09-20-2012, 01:59 PM

There has been a lot of useful information in this thread, along with some solutions to some commonly occuring issues. Can some expert write a 'troubleshooting guide' and post it either here or as a blog or something? It will be very useful to the new and NS owners.

**ramdante** · 09-20-2012, 03:07 PM

Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View Post

If you think you got your bike fast, wait till i tell you how fast I got mine. I was going to office one day (two weeks ago), I saw that beautiful yellow bike on display, decided to buy it. Went in the evening for enquiry, asked them whether they would give the bike on display as it was perfect, paid in full, and rode home 70kms. All the enquiry and purchase happened in 1hour. now beat that

, and to beat that, my bike got registered in 2days from purchase. For the last bike(my fazer) I had to give a daily visit for 2 weeks for the paperwork itself. For me the bike is not only fast on road, but anything regarding it has also been very fast.

Damn you jagadeesh! You stole my thunder :P Congrats anyway!

And by the way got my Yellow awesomeness! Guess registration will happen only next week.

Motul 3000 20w50 isnt available in my area, but they say they have Motul 3100 20w50(but I know this is SS), is this recommended, and is it full mineral?
Can you guys suggest some Shell/Mobil1/other brand mineral oils which are as equally good as Motul 3000!
or should I simply stick to dtsi oil for now?

**gagankeshav** · 09-20-2012, 03:11 PM

Please help me out guys..
in the past two days i have tried many AFR screw combination and settings but still whenever i try to ride the bike at any constant speed say 55-60 kmph
the bike keeps on getting jerks and the speed keeps on decreasing as if there is water in the fuel tank or as if the bike is about to run out of fuel..

please suggest something to help me out..i know the bike is more than just this but i wanna feel the same as well..

**surampudijagadeesh** · 09-20-2012, 03:38 PM

Originally posted by gagankeshav View Post

Please help me out guys..
in the past two days i have tried many AFR screw combination and settings but still whenever i try to ride the bike at any constant speed say 55-60 kmph
the bike keeps on getting jerks and the speed keeps on decreasing as if there is water in the fuel tank or as if the bike is about to run out of fuel..

please suggest something to help me out..i know the bike is more than just this but i wanna feel the same as well..

Since you have tried many settings, now first get your spark plugs cleaned, then then try again. Your best bet would be to go to the leanest setting and then start tuning. Only do the tuning on a warmed up engine, and after you are done, there should be no unevenness in the engine beating even when it is very hot, and set the idle around 1400. A sing of going too rich is when the engine stalls when you open the throttle, another is the engine the rpm does not come down when in neutral or clutch disengaged. Signs of going too lean would be uneven engine sound, very harsh hollow sound while accelerating.

**psraju** · 09-20-2012, 04:04 PM

[QUOTE=nishant.sukharia;870225]As far as I know installing a horn or any electrical instrument on the NS will void the warranty of the complete electrical assembly i.e the wiring , bulbs, console,lights ,etc.So you might not be able to claim warranty if anything goes wrong with any electrical component later on...

As far as I know warranty does not cover electrical/electronic parts.

**psraju** · 09-20-2012, 04:10 PM

Originally posted by dilipb902 View Post

I was of the opinion that it is quite ok to get engine oil changed during first service. Was I wrong? Does one need to get oil changed even before first service?

Stock oil should at least last till 1st service right?

The earlier the engine oil changed, the better. One of my friends, got the engine oil changed immediately after coming out of showroom - he says never trust these showroom guys and risk your bike. You don't know what oil is used - and I think he is right.

**faffy** · 09-20-2012, 04:22 PM

Vibrations at handle at higher rpms...

guys i am getting quite a lot vibrations at handle bar and cluth and front brake levers at higher rpms ( 7 and above )

...anybody else getting them? I am still using bajaj dtsi oil replaced during 1st servicing, around 2500 k kms on ODO.... SVC manager is not allowing to change the engine oil to some other brand and saying warranty would void if any other brand is used

**AntiqueBlue** · 09-20-2012, 04:33 PM

Originally posted by faffy View Post

guys i am getting quite a lot vibrations at handle bar and cluth and front brake levers at higher rpms ( 7 and above )

...anybody else getting them? I am still using bajaj dtsi oil replaced during 1st servicing, around 2500 k kms on ODO.... SVC manager is not allowing to change the engine oil to some other brand and saying warranty would void if any other brand is used

Seriously ??? this is a new thing I am hearing, many bajaj center put castrol, what about them??
neways sometimes when you give too much attention to details, u find every problem big...happen with my bike too

**nilesh14587** · 09-20-2012, 04:43 PM

Originally posted by faffy View Post

guys i am getting quite a lot vibrations at handle bar and cluth and front brake levers at higher rpms ( 7 and above )

...anybody else getting them? I am still using bajaj dtsi oil replaced during 1st servicing, around 2500 k kms on ODO.... SVC manager is not allowing to change the engine oil to some other brand and saying warranty would void if any other brand is used

If I were you I would take the bike to SVC and ask them to check all the bolts. If refitting does not help i would see bikes engine has tappet noise?? Does it sound like sewing machine or rattling noise??? If yes then that could be the reason of vibrations.

**faffy** · 09-20-2012, 04:47 PM

Originally posted by AntiqueBlue View Post

Seriously ??? this is a new thing I am hearing, many bajaj center put castrol, what about them??
neways sometimes when you give too much attention to details, u find every problem big...happen with my bike too

this is what that idiot is telling.... guess need to go to some other SVC....
and yeah thats true...thats why i had started ignoring mild vibrations and once a while false neutral thing but the vibrations which i mentioned above are seriously high and totally spoils the fun and confidence at higher rpms..

**ramdante** · 09-20-2012, 04:50 PM

Guys I want to switch to better oil from 100km on my 200NS, which I will use at least till 3k kms.
Everyone recommended Motul 3000 20w50 but it isnt available in my area.

Can someone suggest some Shell/Mobil1/other brand mineral oils which are as equally good as Motul 3000!
or should I simply stick to dtsi oil for now?

I tracked down some mineral oils after going through the forums extensively, here's the list
-->Gulf Pride 4T 20w50
-->Mak 4T 20w50
-->Shell AX5 20w50

Are these as good as Motul 3000? Tell me the order of preference so I can choose based on their availability.

**gagankeshav** · 09-20-2012, 05:06 PM

Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View Post

Since you have tried many settings, now first get your spark plugs cleaned, then then try again. Your best bet would be to go to the leanest setting and then start tuning. Only do the tuning on a warmed up engine, and after you are done, there should be no unevenness in the engine beating even when it is very hot, and set the idle around 1400. A sing of going too rich is when the engine stalls when you open the throttle, another is the engine the rpm does not come down when in neutral or clutch disengaged. Signs of going too lean would be uneven engine sound, very harsh hollow sound while accelerating.

Hey thanks for the update,
just back from the service guys,
they said that the petrol was not good and had a different kind of oil mixed in it..
he just dropped about 50 ml or so on the floor and only 60 70 prcnt of it actually evaporated..

two of them had a test ride with me but as usual none of them agreed that there were any jerks..

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