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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences
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please see below for the posts by Aditya explaining the detailed steps to tune the AFROriginally posted by sands794 View PostGuys give me a step by step way to tune the afr, i know anti clockwise is richer, but how do i determine how rich i need to make it, give me steps :/
Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View PostI've confirmed that the afr screw has to be turned ANTICLOCKWISE for a richer mixture. I managed to tune my 200 NS perfectly. I just twisted the fuel screw as clockwise as possible (i.e the engine should be able to sustain it's rpm) and turned the screw exactly 2.5 times anticlockwise. The rpm stood at 1.4k and there were absolutely no problems of the engine stalling while twisting the throttle. Rode the vehicle for a day and guessed that turning the mixture a little rich would do away with the flat spot at 3.5k rpm. I might have guessed right because I later turned the screw about half a revolution anticlockwise and oola!
The bike feels like a vehicle bestowed on me by God Himself! 


I was able to do it all thanks to the knowledgeable people who have posted on this thread!
Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View PostWhen I said 'As clockwise as possible, so that the engine can sustain it's rpm', I meant I kept turning the screw clockwise till the engine was just about to turn off (due to very lean mixture of course). You can make out the engine is about to go off while turning by listening to the sound. I noticed the tachometer, it showed <1k rpm just before turning off. You don't have to keep peeking at the tachometer while you're at it. Just keep your ear alert
(and please note, it's not the idling screw you need to fiddle with since your idling rpm is perfect, it's the fuel screw located all the way inside - mentioned this just in case you didn't know!
).
I saw a suggestion on this thread (please forgive me, I don't recall who gave the wonderful advice) to next turn the screw anticlockwise a few calculated number of revolutions till the engine breathes easy and runs happily. The 1.4k rpm was when the engine was warm of course. Tuning shouldn't be done when the engine is cold. Besides, it's hard to tune, especially for an amateur, like me. It took many trials and errors before I got it right. Every time you feel you've twisted the screw perfectly, take the babe for a small spin and you can make out any imperfections whatsoever.
I've now decided that I'll never again mess with the screws for I've achieved the perfect tune. But I don't know if further tuning has to be done after a few hundred / thousand more kilometers. Can anyone help me out on this?
@Everyone, I'd been to the SVC this evening and out of doubt I asked the serviceman about the running in procedures. He said, there's no need to follow running in procedures as the people at the PLANT are instructed to thrash the vehicle for ~20km as soon as it's manufactured.
According to him, they follow the motoman's method of running in their bikes and our bikes are completely mature. I asked him 'then why are the strict run-in rpms printed in the owner's manual?'
and he said parts of the manual have been copied from the 220f. How far is this true? Can anyone throw some light on this?
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Yeah i read that, but the thing is it isn't really clear, something like "engine breathes easy and runs happily" is very subjective.
There should be some kind of way i can know when i should stop, because if the perfect tune is at 3.5 turns but the engine breathes easy at 3 and 4 turns then what do i do, and also is the effect of number of turns same on every bike, since the carb would be tuned differently from the plant, would i get the same result from 3 turns as anybody else would?Bikes Rule The City .... Cars Rule The Highway
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Of course, after 1 or 2 anticlockwise turns, you can make out the engine has stopped showing signs of stalling. But then, no matter how much you rotate after that, it all sounds pretty much the same. Now you need to keep riding it, sense the pick up, the sound and the way the engine behaves. For example, a rich mixture would give you snatchy throttle responses at lower rpms and you'd find the tachometer needle taking longer times to reach the idle rpm once you stop riding. A lean mixture wouldn't give you enough pickup and you'd find flat spots at particular rpms. Well, tuning can't be done in a day's time. I took 5-6 days to figure the whole thing out (which includes extensively reading this thread), solve all the afr related problems and get a good fuel efficiency. I don't know if the number of turns affects each bike in the same way but you need to keep looking for the signs I mentioned. To know exactly how you've tuned, check the spark plug. Mine looked clean and brand new. Will upload a pic of that too when I get the time.Originally posted by sands794 View PostYeah i read that, but the thing is it isn't really clear, something like "engine breathes easy and runs happily" is very subjective.
There should be some kind of way i can know when i should stop, because if the perfect tune is at 3.5 turns but the engine breathes easy at 3 and 4 turns then what do i do, and also is the effect of number of turns same on every bike, since the carb would be tuned differently from the plant, would i get the same result from 3 turns as anybody else would?
Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.
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Sorry for the OT here, But I strongly disagree with your signature line...Originally posted by sands794 View PostYeah i read that, but the thing is it isn't really clear, something like "engine breathes easy and runs happily" is very subjective.
There should be some kind of way i can know when i should stop, because if the perfect tune is at 3.5 turns but the engine breathes easy at 3 and 4 turns then what do i do, and also is the effect of number of turns same on every bike, since the carb would be tuned differently from the plant, would i get the same result from 3 turns as anybody else would?
Originally posted by praveen6585 View Postthat sure looks like 7777! but the wrench icon comes at 450, 4950, 9950, etc.. so a bit confused..It is 7777 kms....Originally posted by Arun Magus View PostIs it 9777? :O
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Its not that Number of posts that matters, its the number of Kilometers that does and how you do those kms that matters....
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that's the COOLANT OVER FLOW tube.Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View PostGuys, here are the first photos of my Apollo ∞! And btw, can someone tell me what the open tube shown in the pictures is for? It's located to the right side of the engine, just below the coolant level indicator.
Originally posted by surojit View PostDont know abt 10k but here is a pic of my ODO with a little blurring ..
But i Guess guessing the first digit is not a hard task here given the wrench icon on top... :P

Yes, it should be XXW50, the XX can be any number below 20. It can also be 00W50, and Motul is any day better.Originally posted by banerjee View PostCan I fill motul 3000 15w50 instead of motul 3000 20w50 or should I stick to bajaj oil, motul 3000 20w50 is not availiable in my town
Naah,, no cutting of wires. Will post a pic.Originally posted by Arun Magus View PostDoes it void the warranty? And Pics please...
Been There, Done That; Better!
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Originally posted by Aditya N Bharadwaj View PostGuys, here are the first photos of my Apollo ∞! And btw, can someone tell me what the open tube shown in the pictures is for? It's located to the right side of the engine, just below the coolant level indicator.Its a fuel overflow pipe. Once, when filled up to the brim & parked the pipe started leaking petrol. Actually, excessive petrol deposits between fiber tank cover and metal tank & this pipe drains it out.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Postthat's the COOLANT OVER FLOW tube.
For coolant there are 2 compartments. 1. Reservoir 2. Overflow chamber per manual.
About number of KMs, my chic is 6500+ Kms now. Few issues to mention here -
1. Hard gear shifts (1, 2, 3) continues to haunt me.
2. Tappet have become loose and make hell lot of rattling noise.
3. Post 3rd service, weird noise from console can be heard. Fitment issue I am sure.
4. Console Neutral light isn't steadily glowing but dimming & also the rpm needle is vibrating now.
5. Bike feels little harsh till 4K rpm but smooth post that. I am not sure but will change engine oil and will update you guys.Last edited by The Zmaniac; 09-23-2012, 07:47 PM.The Zmaniac - 2 wheeled enthusiast
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Lol sorry buddy, but its true, my pulsar 200ns, is screaming at 120 running out of breath when REGULAR cars like swift diesels and xylo's just smile and pass you by, my ns cant hold a candle to my petrol swift screaming to 120 in 3rd gear, with 2 gears left, and a swift petrol is just 2 tiers above the cheapest car while the ns is almost at the top end, a car equivalent would be a bmw 5 series, which wouldnt even bother with a bike.Bikes Rule The City .... Cars Rule The Highway
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