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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

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  • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

    Originally posted by pv1984 View Post
    Thanks spatil1986.
    But the rear according to the specification by bajaj is 130/70 - 17, 61 P, Tubeless , so 150/60 isn't exactly the same. Does this cause any issues including the warranty as fitting it with a tyre of different dimensions ?
    The profile of the tyre (or height), is almost the same. 130/70= 70 percent of the width ( 130 mm) which is 91mm. And 150/60=90mm. So,fitting a tyre with a difference of one mm up or down won't make much of a difference. And to my knowledge,changing tyres won't void warranty. Yes,the roll on acceleration would decrease by an imperceptible amount since the width of the cross section has increased and it's a softer compound,but it's the price you pay for getting better grip.

    Comment


    • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

      Originally posted by myth2104 View Post
      Though recommended grade is 20w50 but go for anything which is Xw50 i.e. the viscosity at higher temperature should be 50. Dont alter this viscosity. So going for 10w40 might relatively heat up your engine.
      It does not make big difference shell gives you smooth engine i dont care right now am on castrol power1 fs 10w50 at next oil change am going with shell advance ultra 10w40 ...i had use this oil in my dazzler from last 3 years (47,000KMS) without without any problem ... Truly trust on shell ... :-) do what ever you like i tell you what i think

      Comment


      • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

        Originally posted by vaibhav93 View Post
        It does not make big difference shell gives you smooth engine i dont care right now am on castrol power1 fs 10w50 at next oil change am going with shell advance ultra 10w40 ...i had use this oil in my dazzler from last 3 years (47,000KMS) without without any problem ... Truly trust on shell ... :-) do what ever you like i tell you what i think
        i m not an expert or something, but jus checked that dazzler's recommended grade is 20w40, so basically u have been using an engine oil with manufacturer recommended higher temperature viscosity level , which is --w40
        In this case NS's recommended grade is 20w50, so i think we shouldn't change that higher temperature viscosity of 50 as suggested by myth2104 and many others
        You're the guy who'll be sneaking out of your bedroom at three o'clock in the morning to look at your bike.

        Comment


        • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

          Originally posted by vaibhav93 View Post
          It does not make big difference shell gives you smooth engine i dont care right now am on castrol power1 fs 10w50 at next oil change am going with shell advance ultra 10w40 ...i had use this oil in my dazzler from last 3 years (47,000KMS) without without any problem ... Truly trust on shell ... :-) do what ever you like i tell you what i think
          Im not against Shell buddy and neitheram I knocking off a 10w40 oil, just saying that Xw50 would perform better in these hot summers. If it didn't make a a major difference then there be wouldn't be oils with such different ranges. Although even I have used 20w40 and dint find a lot of difference but may be a long term effect would be there.
          And please dont compare the levels of engine heat of dazzler and NS. NS generates a lot more heat than Dazzler so it requires an oil which withstand a high temperature and not liquefy into water.


          Pulsar
          200NS Tri-Spark - The Alpha Male
          sigpic



          Comment


          • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

            Originally posted by krish2778 View Post
            This is a common problem right from the 220 to the ns.
            Most probably could be dust in the brake setup. So get it checked. Remove pads, rub them against one another and then fix back, or pressure wash. But be careful while riding after pressure wash, the braking efficiency would be a tad bit lesser.

            Cheers
            Ride Safe
            Krishna
            that is wt the svc ppl did twice when i complained this problem ..it comes back after sometime of cleaning ..goes off even sometime when is wipe the dust of the disc using cloth ....its a ghost...comes and goes ...got used to it..who cares now i have the brake bite still like stock ...

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            buy the way two weeks ago got a sheet metal piece of 2mm thick about 1 inch long in my rear tyre ...it got through the tyre in a very slanting way ..checked.there was a very small amount of leakage ..then removed it ...there was still very very little leakage ..went to puncture shop..pointed out the place to the guy ...to my surprise there was no leakage ..still running good..two weeks back kept 38psi today at 33psi..filled it back to 40.

            ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

            Originally posted by Aytas_sss View Post
            The profile of the tyre (or height), is almost the same. 130/70= 70 percent of the width ( 130 mm) which is 91mm. And 150/60=90mm. So,fitting a tyre with a difference of one mm up or down won't make much of a difference. And to my knowledge,changing tyres won't void warranty. Yes,the roll on acceleration would decrease by an imperceptible amount since the width of the cross section has increased and it's a softer compound,but it's the price you pay for getting better grip.
            you are exactly correct

            ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

            Originally posted by myth2104 View Post
            Im not against Shell buddy and neitheram I knocking off a 10w40 oil, just saying that Xw50 would perform better in these hot summers. If it didn't make a a major difference then there be wouldn't be oils with such different ranges. Although even I have used 20w40 and dint find a lot of difference but may be a long term effect would be there.
            And please dont compare the levels of engine heat of dazzler and NS. NS generates a lot more heat than Dazzler so it requires an oil which withstand a high temperature and not liquefy into water.
            Originally posted by vinodhs87 View Post
            i m not an expert or something, but jus checked that dazzler's recommended grade is 20w40, so basically u have been using an engine oil with manufacturer recommended higher temperature viscosity level , which is --w40
            In this case NS's recommended grade is 20w50, so i think we shouldn't change that higher temperature viscosity of 50 as suggested by myth2104 and many others
            thank u guys for ur valuble replies... i think will go with 7100 20w50..but this 2ltr buying really aches ..will it be worth for the money and will it make me to pour the rest again and again ..the main reason i am going for the synth is that i do lot of engine braking(nowadays i am using the disc in front and engine braking in rear as it very much avoids skids and u r also in the correct gear for the next acceleration after breaking) and i also use a very fast clutch action...

            ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

            Originally posted by myth2104 View Post
            ROFL...the way you wrote was hilarious. But on a serious note, it sucks when the SVC does this. You should've taken your "particle" out of the SVC (even if by way of pushing it and starting it) and headed to the Exide outlet. What's done is done now. Hope you get the God's blessing soon.

            And for others, how about this to prove NS' viby issues.
            Video by our very own @rahul Devnath:

            Pulsar 200NS refinement at 16000 Kms - YouTube
            nice video i think NS will earn some respect through this
            i think he uses 7100 or 300v.. and one thing is that NS never develops vibes in that area they are always near the useless knee recesses...
            Last edited by Karthi.N; 05-10-2013, 11:10 PM.

            Comment


            • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

              Originally posted by Karthi.N View Post

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              ..kept 38psi today at 33psi..filled it back to 40..

              You fill the tyres at 40 psi? That's way over the recommended levels. Unless your tyre is hot while filling air,there is no need to over-inflate. And even then,exceeding 30 psi for the front and 35 psi for the rear to compensate for the heated up tyres is overkill. Your handling will be grossly affected and it's a potential hazard as well.


              ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----





              (nowadays i am using the disc in front and engine braking in rear as it very much avoids skids and u r also in the correct gear for the next acceleration after breaking) and i also use a very fast clutch action...

              Engine braking in the rear brake?

              Replies and queries in bold.

              Comment


              • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                Originally posted by Karthi.N View Post
                thank u guys for ur valuble replies... i think will go with 7100 20w50..but this 2ltr buying really aches ..will it be worth for the money and will it make me to pour the rest again and again ..the main reason i am going for the synth is that i do lot of engine braking(nowadays i am using the disc in front and engine braking in rear as it very much avoids skids and u r also in the correct gear for the next acceleration after breaking) and i also use a very fast clutch action...
                Full synth is advisable if your odo is beyond ~8k-9k. Yes 7100 is really worth it. One oil change should last you for atleast 6-7k kms before the next oil change. If you odo is less than 8-9kms then you can opt for semi synth, something like Motul 3100 20w50.


                Pulsar
                200NS Tri-Spark - The Alpha Male
                sigpic



                Comment


                • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                  Originally posted by krish2778 View Post
                  Then you can almost be sure it is a chassis bend. Has this been since the delivery itself ? Or did you have a fall or accident. If both is not the case. Did it start after a service, because if there is no accident history or manufacturing defect then I smell some foul play from the svc part. Try not to ride much or not ride at all till the issue is resolved. Go to svc, make it clear that you won't take back the bike until they acknowledge the issue and rectify it and shoot a mail to bajaj or call the area manager. Should work out fine. Make a mech to test ride the bike with you sitting as pillion. They should understand what the problem is then.

                  P.S: If chassis bend is conformed, go for a new chassis, don't settle for lathe repairs. It will never be the same , the dynamics of the bike in handling. More so I am saying because the bike is new and you have to use it a lot in your future.

                  Cheers
                  Ride Safe
                  Krishna
                  The gap difference Which I told was right at the beginning of purchase!
                  I have tried to convince everybody and all in vain about the gap difference and the handle bar issues are related!!

                  I too think of that bro! for once I thought shelling out some money and do the chassis replacement by myself!
                  but the problem is how can I suggest them..
                  I mean I have to be sure about the fault..
                  If I have any proof then I am damn sure I will not move from svc until they replace a new chassis...
                  can you suggest any method to find chassis bent??
                  another thing ...If I change my chassis...how can I get my chassis number back...
                  It will be pretty hard as some guys tell that there will be no number printing on that! new one!


                  ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                  Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                  I think they are ignoring the chassis issue as in there can be the underlying problem which is being ignored. I can only speculate, but don't leave no stones unturned.

                  Yes the bike in PBK guys hands, they rip it crazy in the name of science. Keep pestering them again and again and again that's the only way to let then know your voice. :banghead:

                  @consciyash, boy I it was so hilarious with the way you've depicted.

                  But all the best. I call it Bajaj Blues.

                  Sent from my LT26ii using Tapatalk 2
                  I am thinking of going to coimbatore service center and ask them about it....
                  can you suggest any good service center near my locale?
                  I too have the same doubt but to all whom I have talked, they are ignoring the chassis bent option.
                  All the guys are blindly believing that ns has a very rigid chassis which cannot get faulty....
                  Last edited by ajayfreezer; 05-11-2013, 01:02 AM. Reason: more editing!

                  Comment


                  • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                    Originally posted by spatil1986 View Post
                    Hi,

                    I was in same situation buddy.. but decided to go with MRF revz 150/60 .. Grip is great in dry and wet conditions and its a soft compound.. No change in FE..

                    Price is INR 3000/- in Pune...
                    Yea that looks nice man, also no change in FE sounds good too. So basically, do you think your NS is now behaving like a much better machine overall ? Any negatives any ? The reason I ask this question is because I trust makers of these motorcycles and there should be a good reason why NS comes with a 130/70 hard compound tyre. With this upgraded fat tyre the bike doesn't act lazy does it ? Also have you changed the front too ? or is it Stock ?

                    Comment


                    • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                      Originally posted by Aytas_sss View Post
                      Replies and queries in bold.
                      i know that i will get a reply like this for posting that 40 psi ...i travel about 15km in hot sun 37degrees before filling air and i like the little bit agile handling on filling more air ..one should try that to get that feel....and yes there is a decrease in breaking efficiency ,but accelerates better...

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                      Originally posted by myth2104 View Post
                      Full synth is advisable if your odo is beyond ~8k-9k. Yes 7100 is really worth it. One oil change should last you for atleast 6-7k kms before the next oil change. If you odo is less than 8-9kms then you can opt for semi synth, something like Motul 3100 20w50.
                      3100 is a mineral na..i will never pour a mineral ..when even company recommends a semi-synth..no people said any views on 5100...

                      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                      Originally posted by Aytas_sss View Post
                      Replies and queries in bold.
                      i said engine breaking in rear (rear wheels)...front discs and engine breaking at rear ..balances well

                      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

                      Originally posted by ajayfreezer View Post
                      The gap difference Which I told was right at the beginning of purchase!
                      I have tried to convince everybody and all in vain about the gap difference and the handle bar issues are related!!

                      I too think of that bro! for once I thought shelling out some money and do the chassis replacement by myself!
                      but the problem is how can I suggest them..
                      I mean I have to be sure about the fault..
                      If I have any proof then I am damn sure I will not move from svc until they replace a new chassis...
                      can you suggest any method to find chassis bent??
                      another thing ...If I change my chassis...how can I get my chassis number back...
                      It will be pretty hard as some guys tell that there will be no number printing on that! new one!


                      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



                      I am thinking of going to coimbatore service center and ask them about it....
                      can you suggest any good service center near my locale?
                      I too have the same doubt but to all whom I have talked, they are ignoring the chassis bent option.
                      All the guys are blindly believing that ns has a very rigid chassis which cannot get faulty....
                      personally i have serviced at jaikrishnaa bajaj 100ft road, coimbatore,they are the worst ...i complaied on them twice to bajaj...but u may try sai bajaj avinashi road,opp.suguna hall ...they are new and have a huge showroom in avinashi road itself...but i have not tried them ...post your experience after visiting them mann.....

                      Comment


                      • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                        Guys whats the colour of the BAJAJ 20w50 engine oil when new??? i had my bike serviced and the oil replaced and the colour is Dark red, many ppl tell me that it should be pale yellow, is that correct?

                        Comment


                        • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                          Guys can someone pls confirm,

                          AFR, anticlockwise = rich or its vice versa


                          Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect mobile app

                          Comment


                          • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                            Originally posted by absarkhan View Post
                            Guys whats the colour of the BAJAJ 20w50 engine oil when new??? i had my bike serviced and the oil replaced and the colour is Dark red, many ppl tell me that it should be pale yellow, is that correct?
                            Yup mine was pale yellow after service.

                            Comment


                            • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                              2nd Service complete.4700+kms on the ODO. AutoService told me to come early on Thursdayfor the service (since I didn't make a booking) and i woke up at 9AM.too late!!!. Friday is a holiday so i decided try my luck at a newplace i had once lubed the chain. I reached the place around 9.45 AM.They took the bike for a wash. Unlike Auto Service (AS) they didn'thave that the soap/foam gun so they use a bucket. After the washwhile the bike was drying, the owner came by and gave the newspaperand asked me to relax inside. Later they offered me a cup of tea.Once the bike was in the service bay i was watching what was beingdone. They don't recommend Motul (they have stock of Bajaj Oil)however since i had 2 bottles of Motul 5100 they used it without anyfuss. The chap who was working on the bike did everything Mr Babufrom AS did on the 1st service except Oil filter wasn't changed. WhenI asked he said it is not required and I didn't push for it. Then Itook a big risk and told him that my idling might be low since Ineed to twist the Throttle a bit to keep the engine revs at 1500 abit when I start the bike in the morning, which is less of an issuesince summer started. He started the bike and showed me the idlingscrew and increased the idling. I was done by 12PM and I headed homewith the spongy brakes.. 1 thing I hate about services is that thebrakes lose their bite.
                              Motul has made the gearshifting smoother (surprised, I never noticed a change during the 1stservice when I used the Bajaj Oil). I still find the neutral now andthen when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear.


                              On my way back Inoticed the revs didn't drop below 3k when I let the throttle go down(I was cursing myself for asking them to fiddle with the idling). Igot home and reduced the idling myself to 1.5k. Today I started thebike and noticed the idling was kinda of low at the start so twistedthe screw to bring up the idling. I seem to have hit sweet spot, letssee how it goes.


                              I will see if the vibeshave come down since I have Motul and keep you guys posted when mybrakes get their bite back.

                              Comment


                              • Re: Pulsar 200 NS

                                Originally posted by Karthi.N View Post
                                3100 is a mineral na..i will never pour a mineral ..when even company recommends a semi-synth..no people said any views on 5100...
                                Nah...its semi synth. 3000 is mineral. I guess 5100 is fully synth, but ts life is not the same as 7100. So better put in a few bucks extra and get 7100.

                                Originally posted by absarkhan View Post
                                Guys whats the colour of the BAJAJ 20w50 engine oil when new??? i had my bike serviced and the oil replaced and the colour is Dark red, many ppl tell me that it should be pale yellow, is that correct?
                                Its pale yellow when you watch it being poured (because of translucency) , but its reddish if you see it in a container due to density.


                                Pulsar
                                200NS Tri-Spark - The Alpha Male
                                sigpic



                                Comment

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