Hey buddy you really did this makeover in PS its weirdo cool dude.

The probs. is seating, helps in building upper arm muscles during braking. For faster muscular results, please use a pillion

Gimme this, no gym and pushups then

i could spray wd40, but i want someone(atleast the owner of the SC/showroom) to see all this and hopefully do something.
i hoped they would atleast do some touch up painting on the frame.

ok about the right handle bar thing, is there any way to remove that knob. i want to click pics to send to suzuki india but my cam just doesnt get the important part, its too far inside,hard to see also.

and the oil is veedol not castrol. i asked the mechanic. he said he put veedol.

I came up with a solution to the flickering parking lights.
its basically a dc conversion of the current but its pretty easy and just needs slight modification near the parking lights.

method 1 is simple and may be little less effective
method 2 is very effective and a little complicated and expensive.

note: try this at your own risk. i'm not responsible for your bulb or warranty.
dont try this on the main head light. could cause diode and capacitor to burn.

how can i upload images of bigger size ?? in the attachments the size is limited to 640*280 and filesize of around 20kb which is too less..

Bad news guys
i tried using electric start(pressed the button about 5-6 times as bike wasnt starting).
and now the battery seems to be back to its not working state.
after riding few kms it starts once(sometimes twice) with electric start and then as usual the display goes off if i press the button.
its so saddening, now along with a bad battery i've got bad wiring to the brake lights too

ok i have a question.
suppose i'm using electric start for starting the bike and i turn it on and turn it off within 5-10sec,
doing the above 5 times, is it enough to discharge the battery to an extent that it doesnt start using electric start (due to less charge in the battery) ???

Now that's an engg. boy at work Cool thinking dude

The only prob. is that the incoming sinusoidal wave is not a 'perfect' sinewave as in our supply AC. Those diodes, say IN4007, if OK, might filter out the ripples to a certain extend, but unless clamped to the required DC voltage always, its gonna make the entire LED go kaput. Even capacitors(variable pots), unless they are highly low tolerance and well tuned, will not suit these LEDs due to varying sine inputs .
Whats needed is a detailed info of the planned LEDs ratings and the power o/p variation scope of alternator/engine. If you have checked above info out, using failsafe zener diodes and a good tested ckt design, a sort of constant DC might be possible. Am out of college. May be you/any buddy having stuff and time can truly make one from scratch. It could be a good mini-project for you guys. And highly beneficial to all of us here
Heck you guys can start a business using xBhp GS owners

Dunno about the pics prob If shadowFax could post those beautiful pics, you definitely can
As usual Just My 50 cents...oops 50 paisa

The Q could be clearer dear buddy ...But if your question is, whether batt. will be buzz, if starter used 5 times in a minute w/o running, its a Nope .
All these batt. have sufficient charge for repeated use. (no wonder certain bikes need no kicks ).
Your prob. is certainly something to do with either batt./whole wiring itself...hopefully not my Nova problem. Maybe some wiring mistakes, causing batt. drain (buzzer/alternator/horn...) even with keylock OFF position .

good one

[QUOTE=Amitine;286420] whether batt. will be buzz, if starter used 5 times in a minute w/o running, its a Nope .
QUOTE]

that was my question anyways. i tried pressing electric start button about 5 times when the bike wasnt starting .
later found out the fuel knob was in off, thats why it wasnt starting.
anyway since it cant cause the battery to become low i guess its back to the SC

and about the waveform, if i had a CRO or atleast multimeter it would have been useful.
but wont the high power diodes withstand the voltage easily ???
anyway its not a good time for me to lose warranty for battery or electricals so cant try it now

Its a rectifier circuit with a filter capacitor attached...
Make sure to use a higher amps Bridge rectifier and at-least a 1000 mf 25v capacitor...
If necessary, do provide an additional heatsink for the Bridge rectifier diode.

[QUOTE=thefalcon;286505] Hey buddy the bike should start with fuel knob OFF, provided petrol isn't in reserve.
Everyday morning my bike starts on 2nd kick at fuel OFF position w/o choke (yet to use, though its bitter cold in morn.). After ~1 mins, I turn it ON. Idle for another 1+ mins, then move out. Feel its better you take it to another SC.

Yep buddy w/o a CRO, no ckt design is applicable for real practical use. You guys having labs, I thought its easy for you. During my ES labs, had created a xmas flickering LEDs with friends. It did utilise flipflops for the ring and johnson counter using LM7495 IC. We sold them for 90/- though its actual cost was 62.50/- ...sold 28 of them (some lady teachers and juniors). It was gr8 until our sir made a similar stuff for just 22 bucks.

The real problem here is one has no idea of the magnitude and freq. variation of incoming pwr from engine. Without considering above aspects, a setup might work, but given an impulse , due to rapid throttle/false neutral etc..., the ckt can go kaput or worse cause damage to the whole light setup. Its here where CRO use is must. As you already know, no circuit is complete, unless tested OK for any eventualities.

Our xmas lights would go kaput, the moment you gave >6V to any ff. As far as I know, all of them are now buzz...
P.S. The setup costs 90/- w/o batteries ...also max. life achieved from feedback was hardly a month with constant use. Overall for us it was gr8 fun, for the buyers an impulse to make their own

Btw EFY mag has enough stuff to make a Dexter of a 15 yr old kid (my exp. at an exhibition) Cheerio

help me

i am getting very less mileage i told abt this they tuned my carb by connecting it to some machine but today i got 26kmpl which is very less wat i shud do man

[QUOTE=Amitine;286592]No need of a CRO for such a small thing...
We own a electronic service center, and use of CRO is very rare....
A multimeter will do...
Just have to measure the max voltage (Attained by revving ur engine to the limits) and install a 1000mf capacitor; voltage greater than the max voltage attained.

Similarly, for the diode or bridge rectifier the max ampere should me measured and the value of the diode is to be decided...
This isn't a complicated thing...

Ultra bright LED's are available in the market, if anyone can enquire about it, it should do a wonderful job. U can directly connect those to battery... The so called DC setup. Very low power consumption. Won't damage ur battery either

[QUOTE=mathewsyriac;286833]If it works, then it would br gr8 buddy If you have got it working, pls do post the component rating used (hopefully no royalties ) Btw using a batt. would be the simplest. frankly I really do feel any Led colour isn't as good as the available filament pilot lamp. Those horns in blue/white might look very odd.

Buddies here had similar doubts/issues and they seemed to be solved. If you add more detail and condition, they could pop up & help you out
My current prob. is gas still not going to blinking reserve (bike stalls in knob ON position, hence still driving in RES for ~100 kms till now at 1 bar...1 bar since 5 days having last filled 100 bucks gas at blinking bar )...
Am getting ~53 km/L overall (R2R) with both NH/dead-stop city drives. I do try to drive at higher gears, with bike OFF at signals and jams.
And I fill only Xtra Prm, from a single pump. Each fuel/fuel seems different. My worst experience (engine is gruff) is always with Speed. Power is also pretty good

complain to suzuki through their website man .