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**saipranav** · 10-01-2011, 11:08 AM

@psr, rtrlover
The ASC guy suggested me not to give the bike for servicing at the moment as the engineer asked me to come on monday for the repair work, he said it would be better to replace the oil during/after the repair is done, i tried to check the oil level but the cap(which has a dip stick) is very tight, is there any tool which has to be used to remove the cap?

If the oil level is low, can i top up with another brand of mineral oil(currently my bike has the regular 10w30 TVS oil).

**white.warrior** · 10-01-2011, 11:33 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

check the rear wheel alignment... with the swingarm. Sometimes the alignment indicator near the axle nut might be off...

Spot on @lijok +1 for that. I just checked the alignment indicators and they are a bit off with a difference of 1 scale unit.

I dont understand why these SVC guys are so careless, they can never fix a thing properly? May be I will get it fixed from a local mechanic

**lijok** · 10-01-2011, 02:56 PM

Originally posted by white.warrior View Post

Spot on @lijok +1 for that. I just checked the alignment indicators and they are a bit off with a difference of 1 scale unit.

I dont understand why these SVC guys are so careless, they can never fix a thing properly? May be I will get it fixed from a local mechanic

Dont waste time... trying to understand the SVC guys.

Ideally, we should take a snapshot of the area in trouble before and after SVC service. Atleast 50% of the time, nothing would have changed...

**Rtrlover83** · 10-01-2011, 03:59 PM

@saipranav
Park the bike in central stand (level ground) and wait for about 10mins. Use an ordinary pair of pliers to remove the gauge oil level. Just apply the required pressure while using it, cos you don't want to damage the cap. Wipe the gauge oil level clean and thread it back. Now take it out once again and check. Level should be between the lower and upper markings. If it's less than the lower level, fill it up to the upper level mark. As the oil being used is TVS Tru4 Premium 10W30, use the same to top up. It's available locally at dealers and petrol pumps.

**A5H15H** · 10-01-2011, 04:03 PM

Originally posted by New guy View Post

Hope most of your queries are answered. TVS After Sales Service is more or less the same across mumbai but of the three SVc i have tried I found the innovative tvs at bhandup guys a bit more experienced and knowledgeable than the rest.

Hey thanks buddy, so at least I know theres a decent service centre albeit a lil far away.

Thanks dude!!

**saipranav** · 10-01-2011, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by Rtrlover83 View Post

@saipranav
Park the bike in central stand (level ground) and wait for about 10mins. Use an ordinary pair of pliers to remove the gauge oil level. Just apply the required pressure while using it, cos you don't want to damage the cap. Wipe the gauge oil level clean and thread it back. Now take it out once again and check. Level should be between the lower and upper markings. If it's less than the lower level, fill it up to the upper level mark. As the oil being used is TVS Tru4 Premium 10W30, use the same to top up. It's available locally at dealers and petrol pumps.

Managed to remove the dip stick without damaging it :P

But there is no marking for low oil level/high oil level...
At the bottom of the dip stick there is a design like diagonal lines forming diamond shapes... the oil is coming upto somewhere between that, the oil is watery and thin.
I decided not to use the bike until i give it for servicing on monday.

**psr** · 10-01-2011, 09:41 PM

Originally posted by saipranav View Post

Managed to remove the dip stick without damaging it :P

But there is no marking for low oil level/high oil level...
At the bottom of the dip stick there is a design like diagonal lines forming diamond shapes... the oil is coming upto somewhere between that, the oil is watery and thin.
I decided not to use the bike until i give it for servicing on monday.

The diagonal lines forming diamond shape will be about an inch in height or so measured from bottom of stick...oil level should be enough for wetting the diagonal lines till it's top level. This is the full level, and if you have oil up to half way mark then you are within safe limits.
When you get the job done at SVC try to be present in the best interest of your bike and also to pick up some knowledge on the bike's internals.

**Rtrlover83** · 10-01-2011, 11:08 PM

@saipranav
All the very best Bro. Your bike would surely be in mint shape soon enough

**pranav_salieri** · 10-01-2011, 11:36 PM

hey nobody replied to my queiry!!! please guys help me out

1.i will check the fork oil level.my mech told me that there is a bend ill get it rectified ASAP! he told me that he will need more time to fix that i was in a hurry!

2.how do i check for petrol leak where how do i rectify this problem f petrol leak now??

3.@ drifty where have you put rubber dampners??? i had put a piece of rubber in the key holder but no use...please enlighten me with this.....

4.i think my bike running normal but take a look at the pics and verify please!

and i am praying all day that r15 2.0's speed and acceleration remain lower or similar to the old r15!!!!

**Garry_Menace** · 10-02-2011, 12:43 AM

Originally posted by A5H15H View Post

Thanks a ton bro!! Made it a lot easier!!

Mention not, bro

@Saipranav

May "she" get well soon

**Drifty** · 10-02-2011, 11:42 AM

Originally posted by pranav_salieri View Post

hey nobody replied to my queiry!!! please guys help me out

1.i will check the fork oil level.my mech told me that there is a bend ill get it rectified ASAP! he told me that he will need more time to fix that i was in a hurry!

2.how do i check for petrol leak where how do i rectify this problem f petrol leak now??

3.@ drifty where have you put rubber dampners??? i had put a piece of rubber in the key holder but no use...please enlighten me with this.....

4.i think my bike running normal but take a look at the pics and verify please!

and i am praying all day that r15 2.0's speed and acceleration remain lower or similar to the old r15!!!!

First check the allen key bolts,if they are loose.You have to remove the clamp on the handlebar on which the RTR logo sits and then insert a thin patch of rubber on it(cut the patch according to the shape of the clamp) and then replace the clamp.

Tank leakage occurs mostly from the welded section(bottom portion of the tank),check there.For temporary usage,I had seen mechs using M-seal at the place where the leak occurs.It is a good practice to put small amount of 2T oil in the tank(filled with petrol) to prevent it from rusting,alternately you can spray WD-40 on the bottom portion of the tank from outside.I do it generally in the monsoon time.

Regarding spark plug,your mixture seems to be 'little' rich but its OK,no harm.
P.S-I see you already inclined towards the new R15.I remember you posting in what bike section regarding selling the RTR and buying the Yammie.BTW The R15 V2's acceleration is same as the V1's according to some reviews I had read.

**ojakuls** · 10-02-2011, 04:48 PM

Originally posted by Zippo View Post

Hey ojakuls, can you tell me what was wrong with the fitment in referrence to the bold text above? Coz, I too have the same problem. I thought it would resolve on its own as the brake pads bed in, but even after 5k it still is screeching.

Lap timer in RTR is nothing but 0-60 kmph timer. It starts to count once you engage into 1st gear. So, it exactly is not a lap timer. Press the Set button a few times to see the lap timer (Don't remember how many presses from the Odo display).

Hey while tightening the rear wheel, if the bolts & axle from both side is not accurate then the disc brake rubs on its pads & sound occurs.
If they are accurate or not...u can check it by keeping the bike on main-stand, put it on first gear and let the rear wheel spin. Yourself will understand whats the problem. Keep looking at the rear disc.

Hey n thanks for that LAP TIMER thing.

**ojakuls** · 10-02-2011, 05:12 PM

Oil Grade to be used in Apache 180 RTR etc.

Currently the engine oil used by TVS Service was 10w-30 multigrade semi-synthetic oil. But when i checked it out, I found that in USA 10W-30 oil for cars is used where the region is extremely cold, for cold-start of vehicals.
We have a cold region but in North India.
Rest of India we can use oil grade of 20W-40 fully synthetic oil or 20W-50 Fully-synthetic;JASO MA2(Recommended for Wet-type clutch).

Additional information welcomed, if any mistakes found can be corrected.

I am going to service my RTR in a weeks time. Going to change my spark-plug from the stock one to NGK Iridium IX.
Please suggest more....

**whiteknight** · 10-02-2011, 06:56 PM

TVS tyre skidding solution

Had a lot of problem with TVS tyres. But recently found a decent solution to it. all The riders who feel there RTR skids a lot go for nitrogen air. i have been using Nitrogen gas in my tires for almost a month results are pretty impressive the grip is increased. Rs.10 per tire is not at all a bad deal. air pressure doent need to be refilled about a month or more.

**Rtrlover83** · 10-02-2011, 07:16 PM

@whiteknight
Hey Buddy, that's good news. In my case, I don't have grip problems with stock tires whatsoever at least on dry tarmac. But I have tried nitrogen too. I don't know about any grip improvement, but the benefits I've heard is that an increase in ride comfort, handling and the tires not getting hot on long runs there by reducing wear, and of course the time gap between fills would be 1-2 months.

The fact that i reverted to normal air is because the guy at the filling station couldn't fill in exact pressures 25/30psi. It exceeded like 4-6 psi's on both tires. I don't know if that's the case in every filling station (so, i couldn't experience the benefits while using nitrogen). If i could find a place which could fill in precisely, will go for it.

How was it when you filled nitrogen? You got the right pressures?

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