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Honestly dont think that it was never meant to be a front tyre..........imoOriginally posted by ashwinprakas View PostFare thee well xBhp, All the best for being the biggest name in corporate world
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When I say I didn't apply the throttle that doesn't mean it was closed. It was open slightly. Otherwise I would've stopped with the braking and tight corner.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostWHY DID YOU CLOSE THE THROTTLE??? :O,
Because at the corner it's slightly upwards and it descents slightly right after the corner.
And the speed? ~30Last edited by evyavan; 02-18-2013, 11:17 PM.
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I admit it, I was stupidOriginally posted by prateek2210 View PostHonestly dont think that it was never meant to be a front tyre..........imo
I just went for it for the sake of upsizing. Anyways its a good learning experience, and one that I wont forget anytime soon, it seems
This is what I do when I enter a corner. Before entering the corner, I make sure am in the powerband, if not I downshift(Blip n Shift) and keep the throttle cracked open (Read WOT!), as I near the apex I counter steer, counter lean(Ass off seat! and weighing on the outer peg), trail brake(Rear only) after apex if bike has more revs to climb I let it be, else if am running out of revs then I upshift(Without clutch of course, else theres a possibility you'll upset the suspension, which wont end well.) And thats it. I've got this from the Twist Of the Wrist Part 2 a.k.a The Cornering Bible. Give it a shot, am sure it will help you out, I still watch it once in a while, every time I watch the video I learn something new.Originally posted by evyavan View PostWhen I say I didn't apply the throttle that doesn't mean it was closed. It was open slightly. Otherwise I would've stopped with the braking and tight corner.
Because at the corner it's slightly upwards and it descents slightly right after the corner.
And the speed? ~30
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Thank you for the tip, mate. Will try to get it and watch it.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostI've got this from the Twist Of the Wrist Part 2 a.k.a The Cornering Bible. Give it a shot, am sure it will help you out, I still watch it once in a while, every time I watch the video I learn something new.
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Then that means there must be some amount of fluid left bcoz I dont feel any braking issue...Originally posted by krish2778 View PostNo brake fluid = no brakes.
Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna
Yes its a colorless or pale yellow one but when I got it filled I could spot one bubble inside & the level of the fluid but this time its like dried out, maybe below the low end mark...Originally posted by Rashid View PostIf your braking is good, probably your brake fluid is colourless
God knows what...Whatever the brakes are working fine...Anyway in one or two weeks I'm going to get it serviced so will rectify this issue at that time..---------------------------------------------------------------------------
With great power comes great responsibility...
http://speedster-travelogues.blogspot.in
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No fluid means no fluid pressure. I guess no internal damage will happen, but your brakes will not work.Originally posted by susheelkumar View PostWhat are the cons of applying brakes with NILL brake fluid??
@All
Last week got the Clutch Hub replaced. But the issue has cropped up again, gears are really smooth, it justs downshifts without the need of clutch disengagement at RPMS > 4k(, once RPM comes down to 1~2 it will be stuck in 5th gear. I asked mech to check clutch plates, but he said everything was fine and replaced clutch hub wheel and poured in mineral oil(27k kms clocked) What could be the issue ? Gearbox prob ? Pressure plate issue ?Last edited by kantu; 02-19-2013, 12:55 PM.site:xbhp.com keyword -> Google this to dig up stuff in xbhp faster
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I too had the same issue & I think its clutch pressure plate issue..Im not sure about the technical term, but I remember the SVC saying something like this..Originally posted by kantu View PostNo fluid means no fluid pressure. I guess no internal damage will happen, but your brakes will not work.
@All
Last week got the Clutch Hub replaced. But the issue has cropped up again, gears are really smooth, it justs downshifts without the need of clutch disengagement at RPMS > 4k(, once RPM comes down to 1~2 it will be stuck in 5th gear. I asked mech to check clutch plates, but he said everything was fine and replaced clutch hub wheel and poured in mineral oil(27k kms clocked) What could be the issue ? Gearbox prob ? Pressure plate issue ?---------------------------------------------------------------------------
With great power comes great responsibility...
http://speedster-travelogues.blogspot.in
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Mate, get it checked ASAP, agreed that braking is not affected, but if you are not able to see the fluid now as compared tp before then it is a problem, getting the brake fluid changed / bleeding is not a long task, can be done pretty quickly, and since it's regarding brakeing, it is of prime importance.!!Originally posted by susheelkumar View PostThen that means there must be some amount of fluid left bcoz I dont feel any braking issue...
Yes its a colorless or pale yellow one but when I got it filled I could spot one bubble inside & the level of the fluid but this time its like dried out, maybe below the low end mark...
God knows what...Whatever the brakes are working fine...Anyway in one or two weeks I'm going to get it serviced so will rectify this issue at that time..
Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood
Pulsar 220F|2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX
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Again sound from piston (I guess), and if I know correctly, I know what this sound means.....happened last time when it was in warranty.....phewww , will get it checked by weekend, till then dad's humble bajaj chetak and Delhi metro would help me
Fare thee well xBhp, All the best for being the biggest name in corporate world
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Can RTR run on 120/70..??
TVS tyres are made of harder rubber compared to other manufacturers BUT they don't offer any grip nor do they last longer.. My rear tyre got a cut of 1 inch, coz of going over a small stone on the side of the road..They have not lasted 20k km also
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I have to replace them asap..I went to a few tyre shops & the options were MRF & CEAT.. I was not able to find a 110/80 R17 ,so the options were 100/80 or 120/70..
Any recommendation on the size & make..??
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I am still using the stock tyres....just 2 punctures in rear and one in front till date (35k kms on odo), hard compound tyres last longer when compared to soft compounds....plus I am still doing leans on the almost bald tyres.Originally posted by vivekgautams View PostTVS tyres are made of harder rubber compared to other manufacturers BUT they don't offer any grip nor do they last longer.. My rear tyre got a cut of 1 inch, coz of going over a small stone on the side of the road..They have not lasted 20k km also
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I have to replace them asap..I went to a few tyre shops & the options were MRF & CEAT.. I was not able to find a 110/80 R17 ,so the options were 100/80 or 120/70..
Any recommendation on the size & make..??
Regarding sizes check the signature. "Everything is mentioned there"Fare thee well xBhp, All the best for being the biggest name in corporate world
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Your Friendly MotoVlogger
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Will get it checked this weekend.Originally posted by susheelkumar View PostI too had the same issue & I think its clutch pressure plate issue..Im not sure about the technical term, but I remember the SVC saying something like this..
They last so long that if they ever made rubbers they would beat the sales of Durex !Originally posted by vivekgautams View PostTVS tyres are made of harder rubber compared to other manufacturers BUT they don't offer any grip nor do they last longer.. hehe are you kiddin ? My rear tyre got a cut of 1 inch, coz of going over a small stone on the side of the road..They have not lasted 20k km also
.
I have to replace them asap..I went to a few tyre shops & the options were MRF & CEAT.. I was not able to find a 110/80 R17 ,so the options were 100/80 or 120/70..
Any recommendation on the size & make..??
These tires are not made of steel, any tire will get damaged if its cut by a sharp object.
You can plonk in a 120 but you will loose a bit of initial pick up. Try the MRF shop in JC Road, near the signal. There are lot of other tire shops around there too if you are looking at other brands.site:xbhp.com keyword -> Google this to dig up stuff in xbhp faster
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While are you're at it, change the shifter spindle completely, and also inspect the shifter forks. Ride safe.Originally posted by kantu View PostWill get it checked this weekend.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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guyss a bit of a problem with my ride. some kind of rattling sound comes from the engine and i guess the drive chain area. its not too loud, but still irritating. What could be the reason for the sound.
no TPS available in Spares store, and the one they gave was some other model, a shorter cable and more pins (5 if i remember correctly).
so running on old one, have to suffer the slight jerking. Hopefully they bring it in time for my next service in about two weeks time.
Front brake pads are almost over, right now using rear brakes more as its still yet to get over. ( so as to change both the pads at the same time during next service)
P.S. >10k on odo, 6 months old and one more free service left. FE is around 40 in sane riding below 6k RPM on top gear. and around 30-35 on my recent 220km speed run ( mostly 80-90kmph and medium bursts of >100kmph) rattling sound is more prominent after that. one of my friends said the tappets might be loose. is it correct?Just your friendly neighborhood panda. @thebigfatlazypanda
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WOW..!! Only 2+1 punctures &35k km..How do you get so much out of those tyres..??Originally posted by prateek2210 View PostI am still using the stock tyres....just 2 punctures in rear and one in front till date (35k kms on odo), hard compound tyres last longer when compared to soft compounds....plus I am still doing leans on the almost bald tyres.
Regarding sizes check the signature. "Everything is mentioned there"
Mine has 9 punctures at the rear & 0 punctures in the front but the PSI drops..(nearly 4-5 psi weekly)
Thank you for the "FAQ"..!!
That is really funny..!!Originally posted by kantu View PostThey last so long that if they ever made rubbers they would beat the sales of Durex !
These tires are not made of steel, any tire will get damaged if its cut by a sharp object.
You can plonk in a 120 but you will loose a bit of initial pick up. Try the MRF shop in JC Road, near the signal. There are lot of other tire shops around there too if you are looking at other brands.

Spoke to Sai Iyengar And Sons,Indiranagar..He told me MRF tyres for the front & rear are available OR Ceat tyres for the rear..
I was waiting for conformation on the 120/80..Now I'l go for the MRF F&R..!!
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