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TVS Apache RTR 180
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@sambit: Bro, i had changed the spark plug 2k kms ago along with the engine oil and filter.What else it could be?Tappet sound? As whenever i accelerate during day the vibration increase, before servicing the bike was better.Apache RTR 180 2011 | Honda Activa 2010 | CBZ Xtreme 2010 (1 month) |Apache 160 FI 2009-2010
Bajaj Kristal 2007-2011
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Thanks pcgamer and evyavan for the response.Originally posted by evyavan View PostMay be refer to the manual where it states riding position. They recommend a specific posture while riding and this posture reduces stress on shoulders and wrists.
I checked with a local mechanic , he said my left handle bar is not straight and adjusted a bit , couldnt find any difference. Will visit TVS SVC for resetting the handle position.
Will try to change my riding position.
Thanks,
Sathish
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@evyavan
I get to ride mostly in city only. Here is how ride usually (it's hard on a RTR, but i try).
up-shifts between 3.5-4.5K rpm
Top speed kept below 55km/hr
Smooth throttle opening and roll off
Avoid situations were you need to brake hard
Engine turned off at red signals or on waiting situations
Tire pressure checked every 2 weeks at the least. Fills 25 front/30 rear.
I do rev up and ride above 6.0K rpm... may be once a week or so
And yeah, services are done regularly. Oil in use is Shell Advance AX7 10W40 semi-synthetic as I've done more than 7000kms.The Apache is ever willing to red line each cog, but the Rider ain't. Enjoy RTR, Safely. Period.
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@Rtrlover83 I used to check my tire pressure every week but last two as couldn't spare much time to check. I too keep pressure at 25/30.
I had been trying to bring down my speed and then noticed the bogging thing at rpms at 2k to 4k. May be tire pressure us low now. Planning to check it by today.
I think I could use some tips on riding style from you people who are seasoned.
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if chain drive nut attached with wheel is loose can also cause rear tyre wobble, it can be noticeable at higher speed, on corners & when some heavy vehicle passes by. sometime front handle (clip on) if miss match with each other can also cause bike wobble in particular direction at high speeds
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Hey guys, tonight I was having fun redlining each cog. Had reached 112km/h, then BAM! the headlight went off for 1-2s and came back. I let go of the throttle immediately and brought it to about 50 km/h. After a few seconds, the light started to flicker and went off completely. I had to rely on the pass light in poorly lit areas. Luckily, I was near the city outskirts. Anyway, there doesn't seem to be any problem with the battery. Indicators and horn work fine, bike starts with one crank. Speedo glows properly during self test. So, the problem is with the headlight switch. So, here are a few questions,
1. Would I need to get the switch changed or only tighten the wiring?
2. Would I need to take it to the SVC or can I do it at home?
3. If I'd need to change the switch, what would be the cost?
4. If such a thing happens in the middle of a forest during a long ride, what'd be the solutions?Last edited by pcgamer; 02-14-2013, 11:27 PM.
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Originally posted by pcgamer View PostHey guys, tonight I was having fun redlining each cog. Had reached 112km/h, then BAM! the headlight went off for 1-2s and came back. I let go of the throttle immediately and brought it to about 50 km/h. After a few seconds, the light started to flicker and went off completely. I had to rely on the pass light in poorly lit areas. Luckily, I was near the city outskirts. Anyway, there doesn't seem to be any problem with the battery. Indicators and horn work fine, bike starts with one crank. Speedo glows properly during self test. So, the problem is with the headlight switch. So, here are a few questions,
1. Would I need to get the switch changed or only tighten the wiring?
2. Would I need to take it to the SVC or can I do it at home?
3. If I'd need to change the switch, what would be the cost?
4. If such a thing happens in the middle of a forest during a long ride, what'd be the solutions?
Had this prob once, when bike was under warranty. Switch assembly was changed free of cost. If you dont have warranty, open the switch assembly and clean it for any carbon deposits.HH Dawn - TVS Star City - Yamaha Gladiator - TVS RTR 180 - Honda CBR 250R - Yamaha R3
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Thanks. I took it to the SVC. The battery connection to the headlight switch had got disconnected. Now it's working fine.Originally posted by sambit View PostHad this prob once, when bike was under warranty. Switch assembly was changed free of cost. If you dont have warranty, open the switch assembly and clean it for any carbon deposits.
Saw a good thing. The old RTRs are back in action. It seems TVS is producing them simultaneously. That's a good move.
The only differences are, the switch gears and the key are the same as in the new RTRs.
There is some sort of mudguard for the rear disc brake.
The RTR160 Hyperedge comes with 110/80-17 tubeless like the others instead of the old 100/80-18 tube type.
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new Rear tyres suggestions please ?
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Thank god, its back. The two features, switch gear and tubeless tires were true necessity. The old switch gears were crap quality.Originally posted by pcgamer View PostThanks. I took it to the SVC. The battery connection to the headlight switch had got disconnected. Now it's working fine.
Saw a good thing. The old RTRs are back in action. It seems TVS is producing them simultaneously. That's a good move.
The only differences are, the switch gears and the key are the same as in the new RTRs.
There is some sort of mudguard for the rear disc brake.
The RTR160 Hyperedge comes with 110/80-17 tubeless like the others instead of the old 100/80-18 tube type.HH Dawn - TVS Star City - Yamaha Gladiator - TVS RTR 180 - Honda CBR 250R - Yamaha R3
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2k+ KM ride...
or the vyde/ or any good zapper if on a budget

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