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TVS Apache RTR 180

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  • wow! thanks for senior RTRians -@nox2505, Drifty for this info! great to be a part of a enthusiastic A180 group..!

    Also, thanks for all of you for sharing the trick for 'kick-starting'. My ride now starts within 1-2 kicks anytime!

    Q: During run-in, how much Kms can one ride without a stop??
    Grip. Twist. Ride-with Menacingly FAST Apache 180 ABS!
    TVS Apache 180 ABS (Sep 2011-)
    Yamaha Libero LX (Feb 2006-Sep 2011) sold


    Comment


    • Originally posted by Drifty View Post
      Hushh...Happy Ending!
      Some pics of the MIKUNI BS29 carb for the newbies...

      The exploded view pic is taken from bacefook!
      woah drifty mate!! some seriously amazing pics out there!! lots of info too!!

      Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
      In the pics below, there is drain screw shown. Just close the fuel cock and open that drain screw. Let all the petrol come out. Retighten the screw. Done.


      Apologies for describing in words only. Too busy to prepare DIY with photos videos and all.
      thanks for this amazing piece of D.I.Y!!
      off late getting to learn a lot about our rides through this thread
      sigpic"I dream. Sometimes I think that's the only right thing to do."

      Comment


      • QUOTE=Garry_Menace;704079]Nice effort Drifty. I, personally, liked the exploded view the most [/QUOTE]
        Thanks Garry

        Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
        9. Clean all the holes you can see on jet and jet holder.

        10. Pass one fine wire from hole next to air jet. This will come out in cavity of jet holder. pass the wire 2-3 times to clean it.
        I beg to differ here.I ve heard,the jets are made of brass and a pierce of wire can likely change the size of the hole hence use of wires for cleaning the jets is not recommended.

        Originally posted by white.warrior View Post
        Very helpful pics dude..
        Originally posted by sid137 View Post
        woah drifty mate!! some seriously amazing pics out there!! lots of info too!
        Thanks.

        Thanks for explaining Nox.

        D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
        D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
        D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
        Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb

        A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.

        Comment


        • guys i had taken my bike to tvs svc today to get rid of the jerking and high idling issue that i had.asked him to check for faulty TPS and carb setting.he spent a lot of time adjusting the air fuel screw and then said he had to adjust the tappets and will take some time.i needed the bike so now i'll go and do the work on tuesday.any inputs on this??
          sigpic"I dream. Sometimes I think that's the only right thing to do."

          Comment


          • Originally posted by sid137 View Post
            guys i had taken my bike to tvs svc today to get rid of the jerking and high idling issue that i had.asked him to check for faulty TPS and carb setting.he spent a lot of time adjusting the air fuel screw and then said he had to adjust the tappets and will take some time.i needed the bike so now i'll go and do the work on tuesday.any inputs on this??
            Improper tappets will never result in jerks.

            Originally posted by Drifty View Post

            I beg to differ here.I ve heard,the jets are made of brass and a pierce of wire can likely change the size of the hole hence use of wires for cleaning the jets is not recommended.
            This will happen if you intend to do so. There are no cutting edges on bare wire.

            even if you rub flat copper surface(without cutting edge) on aluminium, there are very less chances of removing any material if not intended to do so.
            Last edited by nox2505; 09-18-2011, 08:02 PM.
            There's lot to it other than saddle....


            sigpic

            Comment


            • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
              Improper tappets will never result in jerks.
              +1.Loose or tight tappets has nothing to do with it.Why dont you try the TVS SVC at Panvel?

              Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
              This will happen if you intend to do so. There are no cutting edges on bare wire.

              even if you rub flat copper surface(without cutting edge) on aluminium, there are very less chances of removing any material if not intended to do so.
              OK so its safe.

              D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
              D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
              D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
              Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb

              A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.

              Comment


              • ohhk with jerks there is this idling issue too!! as in it goes and stays at 2.5-3 k rpm range and doesnt come back for some time!!and the bike shuts down unless given the accelerator! jerks are present in the initial rpm range when bike is on a steady throttle!

                btw when are the tappets needed to be adjusted??as in what are the symptoms?? just curious

                @ drifty yeah mate need to check out priyanka tvs too!!
                sigpic"I dream. Sometimes I think that's the only right thing to do."

                Comment


                • Originally posted by sid137 View Post
                  ohhk with jerks there is this idling issue too!! as in it goes and stays at 2.5-3 k rpm range and doesnt come back for some time!!and the bike shuts down unless given the accelerator! jerks are present in the initial rpm range when bike is on a steady throttle!

                  btw when are the tappets needed to be adjusted??as in what are the symptoms?? just curious

                  @ drifty yeah mate need to check out priyanka tvs too!!
                  Seems your primary needs to be cleaned. Open the carb and clean it or get it cleaned in your presence, followed by retuning.
                  There's lot to it other than saddle....


                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • Carb jet cleaning

                    The real reason is not that a wire going through a jet will increase the size. Any material, if abraded by a material harder than itself will get some kind of damage. Like steel in aluminum, or a metal screwdriver being used to pry open the side of a mobile phone made of plastic. You've seen how that chews up the plastic, which is why people use plastic cards or guitar picks to open mobiles.

                    Coming to the point, when a wire is used to clean the inside of a jet, it may create tiny abrasions on the inside of the jet. These tiny scratches will allow the gummy gunky residue to build up quicker than if the surface was ultra-smooth and lead to the jet clogging up even faster. I've noticed this on various other things apart from carb jets. A nice scrubbing might clean a surface very well, but the scratches which aren't visible at first glance will cause that surface to get even dirtier the next time.

                    For carb jets and other parts, the recommended procedure is to use a good carb cleaner, anything which wont corrode or leave residue. And then clean out with compressed air. Since compressed air isn't always available at hand, people resort to the wire method.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                      The real reason is not that a wire going through a jet will increase the size. Any material, if abraded by a material harder than itself will get some kind of damage. Like steel in aluminum, or a metal screwdriver being used to pry open the side of a mobile phone made of plastic. You've seen how that chews up the plastic, which is why people use plastic cards or guitar picks to open mobiles.

                      Coming to the point, when a wire is used to clean the inside of a jet, it may create tiny abrasions on the inside of the jet. These tiny scratches will allow the gummy gunky residue to build up quicker than if the surface was ultra-smooth and lead to the jet clogging up even faster. I've noticed this on various other things apart from carb jets. A nice scrubbing might clean a surface very well, but the scratches which aren't visible at first glance will cause that surface to get even dirtier the next time.

                      For carb jets and other parts, the recommended procedure is to use a good carb cleaner, anything which wont corrode or leave residue. And then clean out with compressed air. Since compressed air isn't always available at hand, people resort to the wire method.
                      @Julian: the finer scratches you are saying will be even finer than the tool marks, already available in jet hole ( it can be seen with magnifying glass). Its practically impossible to provide mirror finish inside hole and no one provides the same. If one do not forcefully put in the wire or rub it hard, nothing will happen. Coming to gunk collection, it will collect faster in area, where fuel is not flowing or flowing slowly i.e. sump, fuel cock and pipe, ect. Jets will get clogged with stubborn gummy gunk if the bike is stand still for long time with fuel in sump or you are running really bad quality fuel.

                      Note @ all:Its always recommended to dip the jets in acetone overnight if they are choked with gummy gunk.
                      There's lot to it other than saddle....


                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • Should i ask the service centre mechanic to clean the carb when i go for the 3rd servicing?
                        Apache RTR 180 2011 | Honda Activa 2010 | CBZ Xtreme 2010 (1 month) |Apache 160 FI 2009-2010
                        Bajaj Kristal 2007-2011
                        ----------------------------------------------

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                          @Julian: the finer scratches you are saying will be even finer than the tool marks, already available in jet hole ( it can be seen with magnifying glass). Its practically impossible to provide mirror finish inside hole and no one provides the same. If one do not forcefully put in the wire or rub it hard, nothing will happen. Coming to gunk collection, it will collect faster in area, where fuel is not flowing or flowing slowly i.e. sump, fuel cock and pipe, ect. Jets will get clogged with stubborn gummy gunk if the bike is stand still for long time with fuel in sump or you are running really bad quality fuel.

                          Note @ all:Its always recommended to dip the jets in acetone overnight if they are choked with gummy gunk.
                          Well, one thing's for sure, these days petrol seems to be much better quality, or is that because i only use IOC xtrapremium?

                          Hmm, the acetone idea seems like a good cheap alternative.

                          Comment


                          • Conversion to DC

                            Could anyone tell me Where in mumbai I can get my bike converted to full DC to run 55W bulb? Have inquired local mechs but even after explaining the entire process listed here (http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...s-all-day.html) none of them are confident to do it. So If anyone from Mumbai has done it please tell me from where and the cost.

                            Also if anyone knows about anyone in Pune who can do it then I don't mind riding to Pune to get it done too!
                            Mumbai - Bangalore Solo Ride

                            A Breath-Taking Ride (Literally)

                            Comment


                            • Hey guys... my bike is herking after reaching 8k rpm... can somebody tell me what is the problem... please... its happening in all the gears...

                              I went to the TVS guy on friday and he agreed that there is a problem and asked me to come on monday and when i went today he returned me the bike just now saying there is no problem at all...

                              Some mechs are saying that the jerking is due to problem in coil or electric stuff...
                              While the TVS guy on friday said there might be problem in the valve and it might be leaking or something...
                              I'm going to call TVS higher officials today and get my work done anyway...
                              I would like to know what exactly is the problem from you guys so that i can make those dumb lazy asses understand easily...
                              Apache 180

                              Comment


                              • Many thanks to drifty, nox and Julian for explaining the working of a Mikuni carb in detail. As far as my understanding goes, I learnt zilch from it.

                                A DIY thread is much awaited. We read everything here but it's hard to keep track of every tiny little bit and its working. Hope, you are not taking it the wrong way.

                                And now, one strange thing that happened to me today.

                                - Bike on main-stand.
                                - Started it. Shifted to 2nd gear. Wheel starts rotating.
                                - Depressed the clutch.
                                - Bummer! the wheel wouldn't stop rotating.
                                - Rear-braked it slightly and after the brake-lever was released, it started to rotate again (Clutch still depressed!).

                                But when I ride it's just normal.

                                Still, in wonderment, how's that possible? Clutch-slip or what??
                                If you ride like there's no tomorrow...worry not there won't be!

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