Valves of any ICE is adjusted at TDC of compression stroke,since this is when the valve clearance is correct.setting it at other marks on flywheel rotor or different stroke time will lead to problem.
Open the link in my signature and read,for ZMA...

PSR sir, can you please explain why the wrong gaps on intake and exaust valves cause noise and heat.

And in my case, where I am pretty sure that the total tappet adjustment process is correct, but still I cannot figure out exactly why after the tappet adjustments the heat and noise increased further eventhough the gaps are correct(0.1mm)..

If by any chance my ZMRs tappets are wrongly set, what would happen to the engine exactly? And what sould be done to prevent the so called problems?

I'm desperate to know the reasons, any one of you who are good in technicals can throw your ideas too.. It would be very helpful for all..

Guys need some help urgently , met with a minor accident , and i have got scratches on the graphics part i.e. on the ZMR red part . Also the gear is stuck on 4th , i cannot switch to lower gears , definitely something not right there , i somehow brought the bike home in 4th gear . It was 7pm so the service centre was also closed , going to the SVC first thing tomorrow morning .My bike is 6 and half months old and the graphics doesnt look good , can i change it ? How much will it cost me ? Plz reply
thanks

Get the fairing replaced by paying for it urself and blame the rest on warranty... what say????

Due to different lobe configuration and position ,the valve clearance ideally is max at TDC of compression stroke.. Setting it at exhaust stroke time will make the lift less and leads to more tappet noise and slightly lean mix ,and hence heat. Heat is not good for the continuous operation of engine, so set the valve clearance properly ,and have peace of mind.

Well, I've not yet discussed the exact price with Joel. I plan to do it in stages.
FFE must be well within 10k... (I'm only guessing. )
No I don't have a pic of the same. But I tried picturizing it wid a P220 FFE and it looked awesome...

Found this



It says the stock battery is 7amp...and the battery i buy (XPTZ7) is also a 7 Amp....

Good find will come in handy to get pricing ideas .

Coming to the battery Ah , Hero using it in 2 bike ZMR & Karizma-R & also honda is using in 1 bike , so i think 1 can make mistake not all so its a 6amp battery & also same on exide link given by psr sir .

& i think it won't matter if you used a slight higher battery ( i.e. from 6 ah to 7 ah ) , instead it is good as you have more power , except that it will be get charged , as i know ZMR alternator is capable of that , if i am not wrong

That's fine if battery is of higher Amp...but we should know what is an actual amp in the stock and the replaced battery...

ZMR alternator is very good of 240 W...capable of handling any load....with 6 amp battery where as other bikes in same category is using 9 amp battery ...except for CBR 250..its uses a 6 amp battery too with 55W of headlight bulb as default...

@ Above_All,

PLEASE update us on how your ZMR behaving after the change of parts a few weeks ago (cam shaft, rocker arms etc..).. How is the heat and the noise now? Are they reduced considerably or just behaving as it was?? Please please update us

I think 6 amp is sufficient for our bike & can work great & as the alternator is capable that's mean hero has provided a option so anyone want to go for big battery then they can fit it with bracket modification .

But only doubt i think bigger battery might give excess current & burn the fuel pump . ( only doubt because the nature of any load is it draw's the current only it requires )

Hi bro , there is no noise from engine , bike runs smooth , heating is lees but it's got heat when stuck in traffic at signals & in city , but cools realatively faster than previous , i think winter is also cause for it .

As i readed earlier you have adjusted your tappet setting , but you still getting noise , a overtight tappet cause heat & leads to noise , go & force your ASC to order camshaft & rocker arm for ZMR if they are not in store , only when they arrive , let them open head of engine , & get the things changed if found damaged .

There is some work remaining on my bike , the svc have ordered a reprogramming unit & they gonna reprogram the things on my bike , i don't know what it is , if anyone knows please give some info on it .

My experience of Motul 300v

Guys for handlebar vibration around 45-55kmph speed or 3000-4000rpm vibrations happens... then bikes gets to zero vibes...Is there any solution... In city its very hard!!...

No, There is no solution coz it is the resonance freequency for most of the ZMRs.. You have to learn to live with that

I tried to redline my ZMR today just to see the top speed. Could redline it in first four gears but couldn't on the 5th... Because of the tall 5th gear of ZMR. Could touch 124kmph around 7.5k rpm, in the GPS it shows as 131.1kmph, as I proved it earlier in the thread ZMR speedo is "overaccurate" shows around 3.5% less than the actual speed...

Wish this bike had a "not so tall" 5th gear with a 6th gear, then this top speed definitely would be higher..

Same with the new ZMA's. And btw have you ever kept riding you'r bike for long around 125~130Kmph???

The reason for me asking so is cause, both me and a friend owning 2011 ZMA have met with the common issue, as soon as the speedo needle passes the 125Kmph mark, just below the 130Kmph mark the bike stalls.