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**rreneav1987** · 02-20-2013, 02:12 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Where ever plastic meets plastic stick it, and where plastic meets metal i.e body, use rubber washers.

So this helps in reduction of vibrations and noise is it??

**Divya Sharan** · 02-20-2013, 02:15 PM

I cant directly call it a myth. All engines have different tolerances set from factory and hence may have different requirements - mineral/SS/FS.

The major advantage of synthetics is superior lubrication that significantly reduces engine wear over the long term.

http://www.topspeedracer.com/synthet...gular-oil.html

**ashwinprakas** · 02-20-2013, 02:18 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

So this helps in reduction of vibrations and noise is it??

Helps in reducing fairing vibes and sqeaking noises.

**rreneav1987** · 02-20-2013, 02:21 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Helps in reducing fairing vibes and sqeaking noises.

Thats pretty cool.. but the problem is.. the fairing is vibrating everywhere..

not sure where to paste the double side stickers

**ashwinprakas** · 02-20-2013, 02:23 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Thats pretty cool.. but the problem is.. the fairing is vibrating everywhere..

not sure where to paste the double side stickers

Paste it everywhere, thats what I did.

**vishnurajanme** · 02-20-2013, 02:28 PM

where to get the rubber washers? Any manual to dis assemble the ZMR fairing?

**Divya Sharan** · 02-20-2013, 02:33 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Thats pretty cool.. but the problem is.. the fairing is vibrating everywhere..

not sure where to paste the double side stickers

Here's what I did.

1. Avoid that yellow color double sided tape available at most stationary shops. Reason - they peel off within 100 kms.
2. Use spare tubes. Fold a few layers and you've excellent damping material. Would cost anywhere within 100 bucks max.
3. Buy a good adhesive (fevi quik or fevi bond. Avoid fevicol)
4. Put the tube dampers mandatorily :
a. All around the meter console.
b. Above the front fender, near the number plate assembly.
c. Upper portion of the fairing above the brake/gear shift levers.
d. Under the visor nuts.
5. Let it dry overnight.

**vishnurajanme** · 02-20-2013, 02:39 PM

My problem is, from 55 - 65 kmph the fairing, right handle bar, and left foot pegs vibrate, which reduces heavily after 70 (Maybe due to resonance), but after 100 left handle bar, right foot pegs etc vibrate

**rreneav1987** · 02-20-2013, 02:42 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

Here's what I did.

1. Avoid that yellow color double sided tape available at most stationary shops. Reason - they peel off within 100 kms.
2. Use spare tubes. Fold a few layers and you've excellent damping material. Would cost anywhere within 100 bucks max.
3. Buy a good adhesive (fevi quik or fevi bond. Avoid fevicol)
4. Put the tube dampers mandatorily :
a. All around the meter console.
b. Above the front fender, near the number plate assembly.
c. Upper portion of the fairing above the brake/gear shift levers.
d. Under the visor nuts.
5. Let it dry overnight.

Now This sounds Promising

**ashwinprakas** · 02-20-2013, 03:03 PM

Originally posted by vishnurajanme View Post

where to get the rubber washers?

Make on your own from old cycle tubes.

**Bibhudatta** · 02-20-2013, 03:14 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

I cant directly call it a myth. All engines have different tolerances set from factory and hence may have different requirements - mineral/SS/FS.

The major advantage of synthetics is superior lubrication that significantly reduces engine wear over the long term.

http://www.topspeedracer.com/synthet...gular-oil.html

hmmm.. sounds a logical view in a short n sweet way.. & yeah, at times it is better to go the conventional way.. it reduces risk.. but would still try to find out the reason behind all major companies suggesting SS oil from the beginning.. even they must have valid reasons..

**Bibhudatta** · 02-20-2013, 03:32 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Now This sounds Promising

Oh i feel nice that i brought up this topic ( again may be ?

).. some very useful knowledge is being shared now !

**rreneav1987** · 02-20-2013, 03:57 PM

Originally posted by Bibhudatta View Post

Oh i feel nice that i brought up this topic ( again may be ?

).. some very useful knowledge is being shared now !

Thanks for bringing up this topic

**sanjay8214** · 02-20-2013, 05:10 PM

has anyone used Honda CBR engine oil in ZMR??? it is the same grade 10W30 and would like to know if it is safe and good for ZMR use. My odo is 18K and i previously used shell SS AX7 and didn't find it comfortable.

**Divya Sharan** · 02-20-2013, 05:40 PM

Originally posted by sanjay8214 View Post

has anyone used Honda CBR engine oil in ZMR??? it is the same grade 10W30 and would like to know if it is safe and good for ZMR use. My odo is 18K and i previously used shell SS AX7 and didn't find it comfortable.

CBR 250R uses 20w50 grade SS oil right from factory. Also, its drain interval is 6k, 3 times more as ours.
Stay away from 20w50, it'd make ZMR a boat.

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