ZMA / ZMR generally doesn't run smoothly with thinner 10w30 oils...a 10w40 or 15w40 brings out the best in them.

Karizma and ZMR having the same engines, I thought both perform same on any engine oil. I have been using the Honda FS oil for the past 400 kms. Being a synthetic oil it should perform well even after 3000 kms. Of course, I have to test and see if its really harsher as it ages.

And when ZMR can perform well with stock 10w30 mineral oil, it should do better with 10w30 synthetic oil. Its really strange an FS oil can't perform better than a mineral oil.

It is not just the grade alone but what the oil contains and it's characteristics...
The base oil makes the difference if an end oil is mineral SS or FS..Oils like Motul 300 V is man made...oils like the shell ultra are Dino oils(dinosaurs time...meaning from the earth). The Pure synthetics are man made and their particle size is much smaller than the Dino ones ....The additives are for protection to the engine parts,and for keeping the polluting particles suspended in oil.
Engine Protection consist of..
1. Controlling Acid formation and wear through neutralizing of Acids.
2. Preventing Drive train wear through making oil easier to circulate, and having a thin film of slippery/protective additive and oil on the moving parts.
3.Controlling/preventing pitting by oxidizing residues.
4. Circulating and distributing Heat from hot spots in engine,thereby acting as a coolant,
5. Sealing piston ring to bore gap , and offering good sustained lubrication at all temperature.
6. Carrying blowby away ,and keeping the ingredients in suspension,and not allowing it to react with any of the engine parts.
7. The most Important function of forming a thin slippery layer ,between moving parts in a engine,ensuring least wear.

The viscosity at 100 C for same grade oil Mineral,SS or FS will all be almost equal...It is the 40 C number which will be grossly different,and a look at the Viscosity Index will confirm this....I had posted earlier on this topic, and it is important that an oil is chosen on the least difference in oil Kinematic viscosity between 40 C and 100 c so that there is little difference in the engine's behaviour ,cold to hot, and better protection is offered.

From the service centre and its cost 1200 /-.. Check my albumn you will get the pics...

Done with first paid service yesterday.Changed airfilter as bike has clocked 12k km.rest everything were fine.din't change the sparkplug yet.did not change oil in svc as i am thinking of shifting to ss oil.asked the svc guy to set the valve clearence.He said it was bit loose and he has set it.am not sure about this ,but I feel the bike runs bit smooth as i dint feel the vibration in the handle bar yeaterday at 6k rpm and 100+ kmph speed.Even the fairing vibration's also removed using double side tape and tube pieces.Whatever,I am happy with the service as my angel is running free of vibrations as she used to when she was just out of showroom. the previous oil change was at around 1800 km back .How many more km can i use it before shifting to ss oil???

If you're running on stock oil then dont keep it past the 2k mark.

Its time you changed it.

@xwarrior: Hey bro, can you please let me know how to do that "double side tape and tube pieces" on fairing ? I have been hearing about it, but don't know how to get it done.. asked a couple of mechanics, but no luck would help if you can post a couple of pics of your bike (fairing area)..

A point on SS oil (to all):

has anyone really researched & confirmed on the reason of not using SS oil from the beginning itself (baring warranty issues till free serving) ?? Am surprised to hear some people saying that it is technically better to use mineral oil for first few thousand kms in ZMR... however Yamaha on the other hand asks to use SS oil from the beginning itself.. Mineral oil at any point of time is a definite no no for R15.. i can say this coz have been an R15 owner.. I think it is the same case with a CBR or Duke ? can anyone confirm why SS oil can not be used in ZMR from the beginning ? I hope it is just not another popular myth !! ??

Regarding the double sided tape, its available at most major hardware shops in Bangy. Comes in yellow/black colors. IMO, tire tubes are great options as well. A layer of tape/tube is pasted across all plastic panels and screwed back into place. tan tana na!!! Minimum vibes.

Now, the engine oil dilemma.
R15/Duke/CBR - they make do with SS right from factory. Why? How? I really don't know.

It is said that one must use mineral oil till 8-10k kms so that engine components bed in properly. SS/FS oil have smaller particulate molecules than mineral oil, so they may seep between engine components and cause leakage. Hence, we wait for them to bed-in/seal properly!

But, I have 2 friends who switched to FS (not even SS) in their HH Hunk and Apache RTR as early as 2-3k kms (after second service). No issues reported so far. Both have clocked over 20k kms since then.

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If you want you can start using FS after covering a run in of 25kms. No issues.

ahhHHHH.. thanks Ashwin for the pic !!! this clears a lot of cloud Now i can instruct the mechanic on how to do it.. Thanks again..

The one in the pic is the cheap white one, get the black rubberized ones used by plumbers, lasts long and is better. And I'd suggest you take your own time and do a DIY.

Is it like, to stick the double sided tape at all places where a gap is there between the fairing and the body?

Where ever plastic meets plastic stick it, and where plastic meets metal i.e body, use rubber washers.