Yes it is there to give grip to the clamp, and to prevent the clamp damaging the pump...sort of a buffer.

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Once you remove the outer can crimping, the inner will slide out, and you will see the Fuel pump Motor inside.

First of ALL make Sure It Is NOT Blocked Injector...and no Electrical Issue..

Hi guys
I was just wondering why hmc have not improved the new zmr with better tire specification???? Y still 18 inch rim instead of 17???? Y r they not going for 130 or 140 profile for rear n 110 for front???
Zmr s a bulky vehicle n they have to provide Tires which can hold on at high speeds right???
Tires for zmr is same as hunk n xtreme... There s so much difference in them regarding power n speed..... Wat wer they thinking????

Bikers have 3 things in life that they can never turn their back on -
The motorcycle
The family &
Respect

Hi guysI was just wondering why hmc have not improved the new zmr with better tire specification???? Y still 18 inch rim instead of 17???? Y r they not going for 130 or 140 profile for rear n 110 for front???Zmr s a bulky vehicle n they have to provide Tires which can hold on at high speeds right???Tires for zmr is same as hunk n xtreme... There s so much difference in them regarding power n speed..... Wat wer they thinking???? Bikers have 3 things in life that they can never turn their back on -The motorcycleThe family &Respect

The new ones come with 120/80 rear tyre, so already the rear tyre has been improved, nothing to worry.18 inch tyres are better for highway stability and also are better while negotiating bad roads. Believe me i have ridden both 18 inchers and 17 inches bike while the 17 inches make the bike ultra flickable but the 18 inches wheel give more stability and ridding through bad roads are easy.The new ZMR have 120/80 section rear tyre and the front i do not know as i have not seen the bike nor specification.

They Don't change tire coz:
1) It will cause drop in mileage
2) The acceleration will get very less and it would be like 4 secs for 0 to 60 or even worse

They Don't change rim coz:
1) The acceleration would slightly improve but the Top end would be slightly reduced based on rev limiter
2) again a little mileage drop will be there..

you could check here.. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

To add to this, the ground clearance of zmr will be very low and you will be hitting the rocks and stones every now and then..

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The new ones come with 120/80 rear tyre, so already the rear tyre has been improved, nothing to worry.18 inch tyres are better for highway stability and also are better while negotiating bad roads. Believe me i have ridden both 18 inchers and 17 inches bike while the 17 inches make the bike ultra flickable but the 18 inches wheel give more stability and ridding through bad roads are easy.The new ZMR have 120/80 section rear tyre and the front i do not know as i have not seen the bike nor specification.

now I am noticing power at speeds above 90kmph and have noticed very keenly how the speed raises now after removing and I knew very well how it used to raise before.. now the speed kind of raises a bit faster..

Before removing snorkel I did a lot of research on the internet and many sites like gixxer and ducatti claimed raise in bhp and a ninja 250R site even had a image of dyno test after snorkel removal :
[ATTACH=CONFIG]129222[/ATTACH]

Looks like you've been busy with all those researches! Thanks for this graph. Very informative

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Thanks ... I went too far with that research and ended up with the air duct intake system in super bikes where the snorkel is present in the front area where our ZMR has opening for our horns and ended up wondering wether honda had ideas of putting a raw air intake duct system in the ZMR and dropped the idea??

It is simple the battery is at fault. Stator plate is not usually at fault. Even if stator plate is fault why do you need to change the stator plate. Just change of coil will do. But rest assured coils never go weak so soon.

For battery test go to a dealer which has battery testing machine rather than testing with multimeter go to a battery testing machine, usually Minda dealers have it and if they charge a fees then pay and test. My retailer friend has one.

What they basically do is that they will connect the battery terminals to the tester and they will flick the switch to self start mode. Then they will press the load switch. There will be three lights 1. good, 2. ok and 3. Bad, if your battery is gone then no matter how much it shows at no load in load testing will show bad.

Amaron has two batteries one is ALPHA series that came with 5years warranty and other is BETA series that has 4 years warranty. When i replaced my extreme battery i preferred AMARON as my Joy has Amaron and at 4.5 years still running string. My retailer friend said that the battery in my Joy is alpha series but now it has been stopped and the beta series are not of that quality. Instead they have a lots of complain. So i went for SF SONIC which has better quality.

So new battery doesn't mean a good one as new amarons are prone to problems.

So get the battery checked on load.

Else do one thing connect a multimeter and switch on the lights and also indicators. Then crank, if voltage is going below 9 v then battery is gone. Replace it.

And usually coil plate doesn't need replacement check the rectifier.

But from your post it is the battery as battery is not holding the charge and making a huge load on electricals which is not letting the voltage increase on acceleration.

In new battery the battery is good so bike is charging it properly. Have full doubt on battery.

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[MENTION=47074]Divya[/MENTION]saran- Sad to know about that accident. Hay are very dangerous to vehicles. The idiots strew them on road to separate the grains from Hay as it makes it cheaper as no labour and machinery is used but those fools never thought of danger to vehicles. Not only of skidding but those cars radiator fan can suck them and wind them which will cause damage to fan and also other components. Here also the same thing when i go on state highway and when i pass villages the same hay on road. The trick is to make the bike straight, do not move the handle and also do not touch the brakes, go as straight as possible.

Anyways what has happened is for good as you have no injury on yourself and as the saying goes:-That which doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

For that leaking o-ring get a splendor tappet cap o=ring or shock absorber o-ring and use a little dendrite will never leak from that area again.

Rrneav...this is one of the difficult problems to sort out, and please follow the following procedure...

1. With the engine on and idling check voltage across battery...It must be 13.8~14.2 Volts D.C.
2. If so check the voltage at the fuses under the seat. You can see metal part on The top of the fuse which can be used for measuring the voltage.
3. If it is also same voltage as the battery..
4. check voltage across battery with head light load it must be 13~13.6 Volts.

If point 1 is low voltage slightly raise RPM to 2.5 to 3 K and see if voltage raises...if it does, battery is suspect.

If point 2 check shows lesser Volts at fuses under seat, then you have loose contact in the connector on top of Starter relay.

If with lamp load the Voltage rises again the Battery is suspect.

If the voltage across battery continues to remain low at all times then the RR or stator coil is suspect...( you have to FIRST rule out loose contact on the connector on top of Starter relay)

I would suggest you simple method to test battery if u have multimeter. Remove the spark plug cap so that engine wont start. Connect the battery terminal with a multimeter setting dc and the range in 20v, watch the multimeter reading and press the starter for 3-4 secs. Observe he reading whike cranking. If the battery stays just above 10.8v then battery is just okay. 11 and above durin crankin is healthy battery. If voltage drops below 10 the cells are gone weak. Load test is the only way to find the state of the battery. Many batteries pass simple test and show 13.5 at low load simply fails when actual load is applied

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The positioning of Air Intake at the front of a vehicle and routing it into Air Box is called " Ram Air" since it rams air into the air box when the vehicle is moving forward..

I had been to ASC and managed to dig out an old defective fuel pump which was taken apart and lying in junk...the impeller vanes and some parts could not be located...but the main motor in open condition showing the contact area is seen clearly...