Hi All


I stay in Bangalore and own a 2010 zmr. It was great until some time ago.
Nowadays I feel there is a loss in power as it struggles to touch 115kmph, previously it used to cruise at 130plus easily.
I have had 3 falls with this bike, all amounting to aesthetic damage costing me a bomb.

I suspect engine wear as this has been used strenuously on the highways, in fact limited to highways. It has recently reached 23k on odo. I use this only for touring. I have had miserable experiences at ASC, now I don't know how to get it done, sure wish I could DIY service it like I do to all my other bikes. The bike has a FI pump a system which needs calibration which I guess only the stealer-ships are equipped with. They don't do much, jus charge a minimal fee of 360INR and don't replace periodic parts such as plug and filter, saying stupid things which do not make sense, I'm jus not satisfied. I have a list of miseries here, hope you all can guide me..

1. Chain kind of hoops, one can hear a Dhak dug noise when ridden, and can be felt when riding and is much visible and felt when clutch is held. Slack adjustment at ASC not helping, sprocket n chain wear not issue here, don't know where the
is..could it be the gearbox or clutch? Pardon my noobness.

2. Bike does not cross 115kmph, it struggles here, is it the shitty tune up by ASC , FI not being serviced.?

3. Spark plug, still continuing with stock plug, the ASC said it's usually 12k but my particular plug seems to be good for another 12k. Is this right?

4. Air filter not changed, same as above, jus compressed air cleaning is fine, that's what the ASC supervisor said, they don't even do that I'm sure of that.

5. Engine oil, I DIY change it at every 4000kms(alternate service) and top up ever 2000kms. I used motul semisynthetic, 15w50 found it great, smooth gear shifts but not good for 4000k. They jus blacken out sooner,So later shifted to stock oil, hero Honda 10w 30.
The gear shifts are now so notchy, I'm not sure of this as it could be due to the fact that the oil is due for change in 2000kms or maybe because the oil is too old, it's been in since last year, is this a problem? I go by Kms done not months as my usage is very rare.

6. Visor vibrates at low speeds, beading rubbers have gone kaput hence changed, but still problem exists, any other way to dampen?

Fairing vibes not something to worry about, but I'm sure it can worsen.

7. Oil leaking on main stand, I suspect worn out gaskets, I'm so lost here as its one complicated bike and needs all the plastics taken off before opening up cases. Is this normal for a 2010 zmr, or is it due to my past mishaps.


Now, what I have done so far on my own....

I have stocked up on sprocket kit, plug, air cleaner, handle bar grips, etc . Will procure more stuff like packing etc.

I have all tools needed to take it apart at my place, I'm a DIY person.

Before removing all the plastics, I felt the need of discussing this with seasoned ZMRians before venturing any further.

Can the experts help me here, please..


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1. Get the chain sprockets cleaned and lubed. Cleaning with diesel recommended.
2. Replace the air filter now!
3. Replace the spark plug now! Avoid Iridium plugs.
4. Use only w30 or w40 grade engine oils as w50 kinda puts more strain on the engine. Also, do not top up engine oil. Use semi synth oil and drain within 3k.
5. Get clutch plates checked. May need replacement. Plus, I'm not sure how can a ZMR cruise at 130+ speeds. Mine hardly did 125. Anyways, doing so repetitively will kill the engine. Cruise at 100-110 at max if you want the bike to live.
6. Replace all oil seals and gaskets to arrest leakage.
7. Put normal rubber tube (from old cycle/scooter/bike etc) and use them as washers between all screws and fairing points to arrest vibes.
8. DO not touch the FI for no reason. Alternatively, get the injectors cleaned or buy a bottle of Iftex System G from BP petrol bunks.

Alright, so now the only thing left to pick up is the bottle of Iftex System G from a BP PUMP.

Chain going dug-dug, will this surely cease after chain lubricating and slack adjustment? Confusing here. :/


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Chain going dug-dug, will this surely cease after chain lubricating and slack adjustment? Confusing here. :/

Usually no, on (crowded) public roads. But then you don't find a race track up in the Himalayas. You can put a disclaimer stating the precaution related stuff. Lets see, if members feel it should be removed, I'll do so, else it would stay!

After a long after-thought, NO! Please don't post such pics on the forum if taken outside Kari/MMSC/BIC.

First pic, wallpaper!!

The following should help:

4. Inspect (and replace if necessary) the chain guide. (black rubber strip near the front sprocket on the swing arm to ensure the chain doesn't hit it directly)
5. Chain cover for cracks at the bolts' area.

P.S - Ensure that sprockets are not worn out prior to doing the above exercise.

[MENTION=12619]Akkiben[/MENTION]- I think all have answered your query and so nothing is left. Still if you have any doubt ask separately as all have explained and there is no need of me saying something repeating it.

Yesterday while i was on the highway coming to my office On my CBZ EXTREME, i happened to pass by a new ZMR. the bike was freshly out of showroom, and was in bright orange and it really looked very good in orange. Two person were on it and since it was new bike were keeping speed within 60-65 kph. May be they had brought from bhubaneswar and taking it to there place.

The riding position is not so sporty nor so upright. The person riding was smaller than me but still was able to hold the handle without crouching too much. Really bike looked majestic, and again telling me to buy it. But the extreme is running so beautifully that i am not selling it now.

4. Do you have a pic of what you are talking about??

Guys, I need a favor. Can someone search the meaning of FI blink codes? It was posted on this thread by either @veryhiphop or @Above_All. Unable to find on mobile.

I rode my bike in heavy rains and the FI light came up. Sequence was 1....2....3....4....5.....1.2.3.4 and repeat.


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