^^ Its normal, don't worry about it. There is always some minor amounts of leakage from around the rivets. This is as per what the PBK has advised me over here!

thanks vid_power for your pics...was looking for em...

@ Praful

Bhaiyya, u always forget to go through older posts in my case. kindly check back.
anyways, my pathetic mileage problem. i told you that i was getting an average of 27kmpl. u said that it would be under hard ripping conditions. that time i was on redline. but now while driving under economy zone throughout for about 300kms still i got an average of 27-28kmpl. now the thing is i get the same mileage figures no matter how i drive. it varies only by 1-2kmpl.
now, in the very old posts i once read that a throttle body cleaning has to be supplemented with CO adjustment. i had got my throttle body cleaned just before the independence day ride since when the mileage dropped adversely. is it really necessary to get CO adjusted? the CO machine in hyd doesnt work.

OT- a friend of mine who has a white tacho 220 drove my bike recently. he complemented my bike to be a monster!

You should check your drive chain for tightness and your diskpads. Check if both wheels are rotating freely.

And yes, CO setting is important to get optimum fuel efficiency and performance in the 220Fis. Come down to Bangalore to do the CO adjustment. Both and Praful want a test ride on your "beast".

Maybe yours is a beta version. The speeds you do in the respective rpms are much higher than stock. We (Me and Praful) are able to achieve such speeds in those rpms only with taller gearing.

u got me wrong. is it necessary to adjust CO after a throttle body cleaning? i read this in older posts here itself when i dint register for xBhp.
i have never adjusted the CO till date just got it checked once. i used to get a fair mileage of 38-42 before i got throttle body cleaned.
iam planning to ride till bangalore solo. lets meet that time. dont get scared of the vibes

lol.. i already post that i have around 3-5kmph speedo error at high speeds.. he said that while comparing his bike and mine. coz of poor run in his bike struggles. i did the hardest possible run in on my bike.

no one to help me?

go to a roadside mechanic ask him to clean the airfilter and thats it or go to pbk and get it done

Hmm.. what about straight line braking? I read somewhere that the Zapper C has a bit more grip in straight line braking compared to Vyde.

Is it true..??

Well I can't keep track of the thread 24x7 I do as much as I possibly can!

CO setting is absolutely necessary to get checked time and again. Atleast every service.

CO settting definitely needs to be done after throttle body cleaning and then after that it needs to be re-set after 1K kms.

Dude, all that hard running is really a myth. I've even seen soft run-in bikes peforming effortlessly. The engines have already be run-in once they come from factory. The manufacturers just recommend not pushing the bike initally so that no one starts getting probs from the starting itself

The airfilter cleaning can be done at PBK. Do you want to Do it yourself?

You must have read my post only

The Vyde "only" has this flaw, and to add to that once the Zapper C wears out a little bit its start wiggling around like the tail of a fish too.

Go for the Vyde eyes closed, for the price its the best you get yourself. Im sure you don't ride that hard you would find yourself in panic braking situations that often. And quite frankly its not that bad as you are thinking it is....

After almost 2yrs (20k kms) my bike battery is on its verge of dying. I hope most of us keep a check on the mechanic (in the PBK) when hes checking the battery, since battery acts as the heart of P220 Fi (no battery = towing). How many of us know that the battery in P220 Fi (Exide 12MH9-B) is maintenance free, which needs water/acid topping up often (once in 6 months), however the PBK mechanics fail to do so. The last time I remember at AutoService PBK (Bangalore) I told the mechanic to check battery water and he said its maintenance free, water level will be correct. I did not pester him anymore.

Now after 2 months, my bike battery started having issues (battery indicator blinking most of the times and horn sound going low when using headlight). So I thought of giving the battery a check myself before get into a big mess somewhere in the middle of nowhere . To my horror, there was no liquid in 2 cells of the battery. I went to the nearest spare part shop and got a bottle of distilled water and filled up the battery electrodes to the top. But even after that the battery showed signals of low/weak power.

After consulting Praful a couple of days back, I decided to get the battery changed, however before doing that, I took the battery to a local battery wala. He checked it and told that the electrodes are fine and the only issue being the excess water (which had no acid in it) (the distilled water I put actually saved the electrodes from completely drying up and going bad). So he removed that water and put in acidified water (donno if that will work) and gave back the battery saying its a bit weak... but still has enough power, so there is no need to charge it. Am not sure if that will really help, as per Praful's advise its better to change the battery, and even my experience says once the battery goes low on power (in regular use)..... its gone.

Checked out new battery cost.... its around 1.4-1.5k...... now my question is..... is Exide better or Amaron ... the battery shop-wala insisted as Amaron, which comes with 60-months warranty (absoutely zero maintenance) as compared to Exide which has just 18-months (maintenance free-as mentioned ... but often requires maintenance). I have to get a new battery if my existing one dies off..... so please advise (if anybody has changed) me as to which one is a better brand. Is Exide (which comes as a stock fitment) better or Amaron (I have heard good things about this brand).

Both the batteries have 9Ah rating.

Exide model: 12MF9-B / 12EB9-B
Amaron model: AP-ATX9

Quite a long post for just a battery issue/advise ..... but it surely is a big issue when the battery dies on you in the middle of the road.

One tip for every P220 Fi user, please get the battery water level checked..... please dont let the mechanic at PBK just check the voltage on that crappy multi-meter . Hope this helps everybody.

^^^ Whats to think about?? Amaron is anyday better than Exide. Anything is better than Exide. Besides Amaron, Base Terminal is also good, and cheaper. NEVER overfill the battery!!

My last battery also died out for the same reason.

I went for Exide as on 1st of Jan with hardly any shops open and 1000km journey ahead of me I did not wait to see any other options.

I cannot comment if there will be any difference in performance/longevity between brands, IMO there should'nt be much difference. I could be wrong though, my first batter lasted 27K, the second one has seen 16K and so far so good.

But I would suggest you to go for Aamron as the 60 month warranty is just too good to let go off!

+1 to that! Among maintenance free batteries I also think the Amaron is amazing VFM with 60 months total warranty out of which 36 months is replacement warranty.
I have heard of people using Amaron on their cars for almost 7 years (slightly unbelievable), I am also planning to go for the 2.5Ah model for my older bike.
Your bike would take this model: AP-ATX9
Here is the link to the website: Power Fitments

You are right, I usually don't ride or corner hard.. Vyde it will be then

Thanks

Had been using Amaron 9Ah, for about 4 months on my P180UG3, before I sold it. Though the battery is still performing well on my friends P150UG3.

Bottom line, Amaron is really good, hassle free.