Re: Karizma/Karizma R

@ [email protected] Brake fluid change method is Good..except, you don't need to pump the brake lever.....Gravity will slowly drain the oil and the Reservoir must be topped up with fresh Brake oil as the level goes down..Once you see fresh oil coming out of bleed valve/screw, allow for 30~40 ml to come outr then tighten the bleed screw and top up oil to the max level...

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

This how I do it, open nipple and reservoir cap, let gravity do its job, wipe reservoir clean, close nipple and fill reservoir, now press brakes lever a few times and release, loosen nipple and press brake lever and without releasing it tighten it, then release lever, repeat it till fluid comes, then close nipple for good. Barely takes a few mins.


Bike faced severe missing at low revs a few days back, on proper inspection the afr screw had fallen off, luckily was able to find it, but lost the spacer. So there was leak when the bike becomes hot, bought mseal, but Aneesh adviced against it, so chewed a bubble gum and sealed it, brought the bike back home(Everything happened when I was at hostel) and collected new AFR screw(Courtesy KB100).

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Just pull the choke. press the self, let it idle for 10 seconds, close the choke halfway and start riding, close choke completely after about 50-100 meters or as soon as throttle becomes smooth (depends on weather). I follow this method and no problem ever in my ownership period.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Yep the tried and tested method, worked well today.

Completed 252kms and as advised here I tried to get the engine oil changed at not one but two dealers both of whom refused, saying it was too early so in the end I changed to Shell Advance AX5 which is an entirely mineral oil. Only worry is 20W40 viscosity instead of the stock 10W30.

One small problem is the fuel gauge, twice now it has flashed reserve, only today I stayed on 'main' and it kept going for quite a bit even without switching the fuel tap to reserve(Eventually I did switch over as a precaution). So does that mean it has a tendency to show less fuel than actually present?
EDIT: Its not really important, but it would help estimate the FE.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

No issues, I've used 10w30,10w40,15w40,20w40,20w50 just make sure the winter temp doesn't go above 20w.

For best results ignore the fuel gauge! When the bike stops running on main, turn to reserve and ride to fuel bunk and fill her up, and turn back to main and keep riding.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks as always Even with the fuel gauge messing around I think I got about 35~kph before the reserve indicator began blinking, better than feared ^_^

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

20W40 is perfectly fine. Also try Veedol Super Swift 10W40. I'm enjoyin' it.

As for reserve, on the ZMA, normally after the Reserve dot starts blinking, your bike would run for another 150kms roughly, before actually going into reserve. Now either thats deliberately kept as a precautionary arrangement or then the HH guys didn't bother to calibrate it properly. But its the case with all Karizma's. So no sweat

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I need a good mechanic for my karizma in Hyderabad. Please let me know the name,phone no and address.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=22856]rcazador[/MENTION]:- don't worry about the reserve bar blinking on the fuel display. If I'm correct you can do atleast 60-80kms before you hit the reserve.

Toss me your number so next time if there's a meet will broadcast.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Exactly. I find a marked difference in throttle response when I idle with choke and when I don't. Even gear shifts seem to fall in smoothly when the engine has been sufficiently warmed up.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I had once considered Veedol, but a bad experience with Motul 300v (probably fake) I've gotten quite cautious with brands that are hard to get. That said I have read quite a few good reviews for Veedol so I'll give it a try once I cross 5000kms(Since its not good to use a Semi Synth oil for a new engine, right?)


Exactly, failing to use the choke left the bike gasping and just stalling. Will check the AFR just in case.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Regarding AFR , find a rubber washer ( I used a washer like thingy from the top of a ball point pen - the Rs.5/- type ) and put it in the AFR hole after you set the AFR screw . - My new mech was puzzled and he told me there's no AFR screw !
Osram NB works best with 9Ah battery and a relay .

Dont be in a hurry to cut off the choke if the weather is cold .
When bike hits the tank reserve , there will be @ 1 - 1.5 l usable fuel remaining . So if on a long ride better fill when the indicator blinks .

Have not been active for some time because I mainly access the net thru my mob nowadays . And since the visual revamp of xbhp , it takes an eternity to load !

Happy riding everyone ...

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Sir, which pen? I was thinking of doing the same cause the bike was fine after putting the new AFR screw, but today afternoon, faced some little missings, you know the ones similar to when the bikes just about to hit reserve and you hit a pothole, That kind of missing. Not exactly sure though if it was exactly the AFR screw's fault cause when I had replaced it, had sealed the AFR area with bearing grease and it was also raining cats and dogs today, so it might just be water entering intake.

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Go for Rimula R4, keep a 2k drain interval. You're good to go (y)



Pull choke all the way, hit starter, when bike comes to life, give 1/10th of throttle, close choke completely, let bike idle on throttle for a minute, then ride. As simple as that.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

@acs1207 Where I should attached relay ?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Having some weird problems with my ZMA of late. Not using it much because very busy so didn't follow up on the problem much.

Anyways, the problem: 1) Bike starts hiccuping when rolling off from standstill. After a few wrings of the wrists it pulls of and runs okay until I come to a standstill again.
Then the same thing when rolling off.
2) The above mentioned problem is not constant. It happens for about 15-20 kms and then vanishes suddenly just to return again randomly
anytime, mostly after 20-25 kms or so.
3) Sometimes the bike just stalls if rpm descends under 1.5rpm and then takes about 7-8 selfs to come back to life again that also only if I turn
off ignition and turn on again.
4) When the bike is running fine, it still feels a bit strained and slight knocking if ripped hard with pillion especially, but still runs very smooth.

Things I have changed/replaced as general/routine maintenance recently: 1) Clutch Plates and Hub-Center
2) Ignition Switch(problem has started before I replaced it)
3) Spark Plug
4) Cam-Shaft and rockers
Troubleshoots I have done so far: 1) Checked by replacing CDI(Rectifier is brand new, about six months old)
2) Thoroughly cleaned carb and air-filter
3) Double-checked on timing
4) Carb tuning
5) Checked tank for presence of water. Negative.

Things I plan to further do: 1) Change whole carb with one from another bike and check
2) Check the AFR-screw
3) Replace the carb Diaphragm and check
4) Change the Ignition coil with another one and check
5) At last if nothing works then try switching the magneto coil...

I think that this problem is either carburator oriented or then an electrical glitch. Now since most of the major electrical components are really good quality on the ZMA, it's kinda hard to guess the culprit. Am I missing out on something here guys??????