Well, finding a good tyre for my zma has been quite an issue for some time now. I need a 100-90/18 rear...but wont mind going till 120-80/18 and as for Front I need the stock size, but would want only tubeless. So, tell me where can I get a Good Tubeless tyre set for my bike.

DURO HF is a very good option. Available in stock size as well as 110. I do not suggest sizes above 110 for karizma. Duro HF is also tubeless.

Do not ask me why am I using 120 Sirac at rear. Aswin knows better.

Hi everybody,
My zma experience so far...

I purchased it in october last year. Put up a post delivery experience here in case you are interested.


After this, i too had my share of adventures

1) A leaky engine block - Status - FIXED
There are two blocks on the engine and the fins below and above the partition are perfectly fine. What surprised me was that the fins below are soaked in oil and i just could not figure out where the oil was leaking from.


I had the engine block replaced under warranty. Along with this i also replaced the piston rings since i wanted a new set so that it meshes perfect with the new block... and again like before, let the engine idle for two minutes and ripped the hell out on every gear until i reached home and changed the oil (changed after approx 30 Km of riding with the new block).

2) Silencer misfit with the block - Status - STILL PENDING
There are two bolts for the silencer. If you look at the pic. The first bolt fits snug with the 'silencer holder' how ever, the second one is NOT. There is a gap - a noticeable one - between the silencer and the metal cover that holds it tight with the engine.


3) Well this is a small story about me and the zma oil drain bolt - Status - FIXED

Once back with the new engine block.... i get back home and happily pull out the tappet head bolt adjustment spanner to do the oil change on the bike...

I secure the spanner to the bolt head and use my palm to gently bang down on the spanner handle to open it.... wham.... i feel a jerk and see that oil is spurting out....

I am surprised. The oil is supposed to flow out when the drain bolt is completely removed or atleast after unscrewing till the last thread! Upon close inspection i am aghast to find out that the bolt head has broken and the bolt has not moved even one single thread!! I could do nothing except to wait until the oil was drained out completely. Once complete, i wetted a piece of cloth with the drained oil and plugged the hole left by the drain bolt head.

The next day i pushed the bike to the nearest service center, luckily he did have spare 'tappet head bolt'?? Donno what he called it... He used a chisel and hammer to make an indent on the outer circumference of the bolt and used it to get a grip and hammer it so that it starts to unscrew... very nicely done.

My bike is up and running after the new drain bolt and a fresh intake of oil

This is the photo of the broken and then the new drain bolt... i got a spare in my bag too... just in case for a long distance trip


4) Braking on the ZMA - Status - WIP
I feel the stopping power of the zma is much weaker compared to my previous ride - the pulsar 180 black.

5) Power delivery at higher rpm - Status - STILL PENDING
My bike starts to "feel out of breath" as soon as it touches the 7500 mark. This "feel out of breath" feeling is similar to you crusing at 80 and then the fuel went to reserve.... something like that. Also, on 3rd and 4th ... the bike behaves the same even at 7000 rpm.... Say i am touching 100 on 4th gear, and if i hold the speed for a few seconds my bike starts to jerk... like in reserve... i shif gear ... to 5th... the rpm falls... every thing is normal... smooth power delivery up until 7500... again the same jerking problem

I am surprised by the mileage figures posted by many of you. Approximately, 33 Km/L even when you take it above 100 Km/h speeds is amazing. I am getting 27 Km/L @ speeds below 85 and 23 Km/L at speeds above 100.

Any tips with problems 2, 4 and 5 would be very helpful.

I am meeting a few friends (gurus by their experience) this week end. Will keep you all posted with any updates.

I just serviced my bike for the 2nd time @ 2700 kms. And I must say I'm not happy with the service.

1st of all, chain and sprocket cleaning and lubricating was done by the same oil which is used to eliminate squeeks from footpegs etc. Isn't chain lube different? the SC had no clue.

And immense chain noise still coming, same as before service.

Secondly, the engine now sounds weird and loud, rather than its refined and smooth power delivery notes during 1000-1500 km range. Appeears as if it's gasping for more air or fuel... pat pat pat pat pat.

Happier with the gear shifts though. They've improved.

I did my first DIY today. Removed the fairing and h/l assembly, disassembled it. Retightened each screw n bolt that I found, and changed my headlamp to Halonix H4 55/60W. yet to test it in the dark. Seemed more yellowish than the stock bulb. Good for me if it lights up the road ahead better.

All in all, I found out that the zma fairing is a really sh***y piece of Design and Mfg. not robust at all.

I too am looking to change my rear tyre. Would help if someone could post some info on these and also mention which ones are tubeless.

@DCS/Rohit
I recently got michelin Sirac for mine
though its a tube type,i am using it as tubeless and its doing a good job

hey guys,sup????????
m lukin forward 4 changin my head lamp....
which one of the 3 is d best deal
Philips,osram night breker,o osram silvrstar???????????

Tell me the cost and the place it is available at...dont mind riding to Chandigarh to get the pair on the bike.

hi in my opinion... if you haven't crashed big time then try tightening both the front and rear axle bolts to proper torque settings... sometimes when they are loose the bike changes handling characteristics when falling into ditches etc.
put your bike on the main stand, start the engine and put the bike in second gear an look for significant rear tyre wobble. do it somehow for the front tyre also.

if you thin front forks are a culprit simply leave the handlebar in 30's and see if bike drags to one side.

and if you wanna check the tyre alignment of front/rear just drive straight out of a wet patch and see if both the tyre marks are overlapping each other. if you find any problems here you can sort them out and chk the handling of your bike again.

If it were me, i would check the "swing arm bushes" fisrt.
This usually happens when its worn out - usually happens because of insufficient lubrication for the bushes causing rust and resultant wearing out..

Thanks guys for the suggestion, have checked the alignment and its fine, the wheels are straight..but gonna check the bushes. Here's a mod question, i am planning to get clip on handlebars for my zma r, does the pulsar 220's clip ons fit on zma ? If yes any idea about the cost ? has anyone tried clip ons ? how do they affect the handling of the bike ?

i got it for 2.3K
you can get it from delhi

After 27,400kms and 4 months less to 2 years i got my first problem in my ZMA....

There is some rattling sound coming from the engine.. i thought that would be Tappet noise... can any1 throw some light on this...

Also please suggest me which mechanic in Hyderabad is dependable for engine repairs...
I don't want to take a chance in this case

Ravi Anna your help needed here................

Ha ha ha. If it is a metallic sound, it could be that the Cam Tensioner gone kaput. Get ready to shell around 1600 bucks.

In your opinion, was there anything that set off this noise? For example, were there any high speed runs or revving the bike to the red-line in lower (1-2-3) gears?