Now i have 2 options either to go for a bigger batttery or other way round is remove the bulb from high beam and use the philips extreme as single bulb in the low and high beam, Requesting you to please give inputs on the same.
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My latest experiment is with philips extreme 55/60 h4 bulbs and guys the light it throws is quiet good but the issue is due to small battery the good beam lasts for merely 10-15 mins and than its as dull as stock as i have used the bulb for high beam only.
Now i have 2 options either to go for a bigger batttery or other way round is remove the bulb from high beam and use the philips extreme as single bulb in the low and high beam, Requesting you to please give inputs on the same.
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why dont you put a cut out, that will help..Originally posted by shrinathrao View PostMy latest experiment is with philips extreme 55/60 h4 bulbs and guys the light it throws is quiet good but the issue is due to small battery the good beam lasts for merely 10-15 mins and than its as dull as stock as i have used the bulb for high beam only.
Now i have 2 options either to go for a bigger batttery or other way round is remove the bulb from high beam and use the philips extreme as single bulb in the low and high beam, Requesting you to please give inputs on the same.
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Bigger battery will only delay the process, but eventually the bulb will dim down. I assume you are using the stock 3.5A battery?Originally posted by shrinathrao View PostMy latest experiment is with philips extreme 55/60 h4 bulbs and guys the light it throws is quiet good but the issue is due to small battery the good beam lasts for merely 10-15 mins and than its as dull as stock as i have used the bulb for high beam only.
Now i have 2 options either to go for a bigger batttery or other way round is remove the bulb from high beam and use the philips extreme as single bulb in the low and high beam, Requesting you to please give inputs on the same.
A single 60/55 should run smoothly. An alternative would be reduce the overall power consumption of your bike. Your tail lamp consumes 5W, and 5+21W when you are braking, replacing it with a 2W LED would help. Thesedays you get direct-fit LEDs for tail-lamp.. let me know, if you need help sourcing them.
R125's rectifier + stock stator pumps slightly more current (about 1 - 1.5A) than stock R15 rectified, but that's an expensive affair to procure from junkyards of U.K. Stator upgrade perhaps? You can then enjoy 2 x 55W, the way I do :P
Cutout magically improves the power output of your bike?Originally posted by Pranit_Crystal Myth View Postwhy dont you put a cut out, that will help..
Jokes aside, cutout is nothing but a relay.
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@pranit - if the relay assembly is done from wrong hands than the blow up of electricals are gonna cost around 20 + k so if someone has done and can provide right steps than that would be great.
@awesomeo - i tried playing with led for brake lights, procuring from nanapeth but everytime i wash my bike it went kaput so went back to stock. Would like to know if you know any better source of procuring the 2W led for brake and tail light as i want to control the power consumptions without disturbing the battery charger as i know if i put a big battery the stock charger will not able to provide enough juice for the battery and i would have to run for charging every 9 months.
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What exact configuration you use ?Originally posted by awesomeo View PostBigger battery will only delay the process, but eventually the bulb will dim down. I assume you are using the stock 3.5A battery?
A single 60/55 should run smoothly. An alternative would be reduce the overall power consumption of your bike. Your tail lamp consumes 5W, and 5+21W when you are braking, replacing it with a 2W LED would help. Thesedays you get direct-fit LEDs for tail-lamp.. let me know, if you need help sourcing them.
R125's rectifier + stock stator pumps slightly more current (about 1 - 1.5A) than stock R15 rectified, but that's an expensive affair to procure from junkyards of U.K. Stator upgrade perhaps? You can then enjoy 2 x 55W, the way I do :P
Cutout magically improves the power output of your bike?
Jokes aside, cutout is nothing but a relay.
Stock battery + 55wx2(what brand ??) + Pilot LED + Taillamp LED ?Ride On,
Akshat
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Would it matter if the single 60/55W bulb is put into low beam or high beam? Is there specific requirement as to it should go only into high beam?Originally posted by awesomeo View PostA single 60/55 should run smoothly. An alternative would be reduce the overall power consumption of your bike. Your tail lamp consumes 5W, and 5+21W when you are braking, replacing it with a 2W LED would help. Thesedays you get direct-fit LEDs for tail-lamp.. let me know, if you need help sourcing them.
Also where in Bangalore can we source the 2W LEDs? As Shrinathrao mentioned, is there any problem with installing a 2W LED for brake and tail light?
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Yeah. Same here. Even I want to put slightly bigger tyres on my blue r15 which has already run 28k kms. I know many people might advise me against this because the stock tyres are very good themselves, but due to the innumerable potholes in mumbai, I would like to have slightly bigger tyres for better stability. Please guide me as to which appropriate size is suitable ( not too fat tyres like fz) for front and rear tyres. I stay in andheri so if any xbhpians have any good tyre place in mind between malad and bandar ( or further if the guys reasonable and trusted), please do let me know here.
Thanks fellow xbhpians. Live free ride hard.
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Originally posted by shrinathrao View Post@pranit - if the relay assembly is done from wrong hands than the blow up of electricals are gonna cost around 20 + k so if someone has done and can provide right steps than that would be great.
@awesomeo - i tried playing with led for brake lights, procuring from nanapeth but everytime i wash my bike it went kaput so went back to stock. Would like to know if you know any better source of procuring the 2W led for brake and tail light as i want to control the power consumptions without disturbing the battery charger as i know if i put a big battery the stock charger will not able to provide enough juice for the battery and i would have to run for charging every 9 months.Exact config:Originally posted by nastrofaction View PostWhat exact configuration you use ?
Stock battery + 55wx2(what brand ??) + Pilot LED + Taillamp LED ?
1. Pilot Lamps x 2 - T10 2W 6500K 126-Lumen 9-SMD LED Car White Light Bulbs (Pair/DC 12V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
2. Tail Lamp x 1 - BAY15D 18-SMD LED Car Brake Signal White Light Bulbs (180LM Pair) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme (slightly dimmer than stock, but hey! It does the job)
3. Blinkers x 4 - 1156 2W 150-Lumen Car Brake/Turning Signal Yellow Light Bulbs with Optical Lens (Pair/DC 12V) - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX (Fatally bright LEDs, one of the brightest LEDs I've seen till date)
4. R125 Rectifier/Regulator x1 from Pitstop90 - YAMAHA YZF R125 REGULATOR RECTIFIER | eBay
5. Hand built 20A Stator Coil with 17AWG(one gauge thicker that stock) insulated copper winding x 600gms (Upgrade the wiring harness which runs from Stator till Rectifier, otherwise it will burn up)
6. Real time voltmeter from Navish securely mounted near the Speedo - to give you a heads-up, just incase, something goes wrong.
7. Amaron 5Ah Battery (directly fits)
Read more on the stator endeavor here - R125 Stator Assembly On R15? | Yamaha R125 Worldwide Forum
Pictures :


(Stator Circuit Diagram - Poles are alternatively wound)
I've been running on this setup for over 10 months now. The only issue I had was when my stator wiring harness got burnt during a trackday. Upgraded the harness, and plugged it back on.. I've used 55w x 2 from sunset to sunrise, no issues.. got a little greedy, upgraded to 55w + 35w HIDs (Next upgrade 55w x 2 HIDs from Navnish)
The reason behind this insanity is a few broken bones due to bad lighting on my Pulsar 200 :P
Doesn't really matter if you use your high-beam judiciously. If I had to opt for that setup, I'd use 55w on my low beam. I know a friend, who has this setup (again, used it from sunset till sunrise, no issues.. as long as RPM is beyond 4K). Get the voltmeter from Navinsh. It'll give you heads-up which you are about to run out of juice or when to switch back to low beam.Originally posted by speed1985 View PostWould it matter if the single 60/55W bulb is put into low beam or high beam? Is there specific requirement as to it should go only into high beam?
Also where in Bangalore can we source the 2W LEDs? As Shrinathrao mentioned, is there any problem with installing a 2W LED for brake and tail light?
Unrelated: I've seen people use headlamps with their engines turned off, and then the crib about battery. LOL :P
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I strongly advise you not to do this. From a bad experience earlier (see earlier posts regarding this from me in this section) I can tell you that the tyre width has nothing to do with the quality of the ride. The R15 is an extremely sensitive bike to stock modifications and in the event that you do go ahead with this it will lead to all sorts of problems later on.Originally posted by Aditya7 View PostYeah. Same here. Even I want to put slightly bigger tyres on my blue r15 which has already run 28k kms. I know many people might advise me against this because the stock tyres are very good themselves, but due to the innumerable potholes in mumbai, I would like to have slightly bigger tyres for better stability. Please guide me as to which appropriate size is suitable ( not too fat tyres like fz) for front and rear tyres. I stay in andheri so if any xbhpians have any good tyre place in mind between malad and bandar ( or further if the guys reasonable and trusted), please do let me know here.
Thanks fellow xbhpians. Live free ride hard.
Should you wish - I have brand new Duro tyres - the details of which are posted in the buy/sell section.Ride To Live
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Couldn't agree more. For starters, your upsized tyres would start eating away your sprockets. Handling, acceleration.. list goes on!Originally posted by akshay View PostI strongly advise you not to do this. From a bad experience earlier (see earlier posts regarding this from me in this section) I can tell you that the tyre width has nothing to do with the quality of the ride. The R15 is an extremely sensitive bike to stock modifications and in the event that you do go ahead with this it will lead to all sorts of problems later on.
Should you wish - I have brand new Duro tyres - the details of which are posted in the buy/sell section.
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I second that. But never happened on my v2. I thought nothing has been changed. I used the same bulb for about a month. And I used them double beam (both high and low). Never had any battery issues though. Strange. Then is anything so different other than the tail light?Originally posted by awesomeo View PostBigger battery will only delay the process, but eventually the bulb will dim down. I assume you are using the stock 3.5A battery?
I knew it was 15w+25w. Pilot lamps are 5 watts each.Originally posted by awesomeo View PostA single 60/55 should run smoothly. An alternative would be reduce the overall power consumption of your bike. Your tail lamp consumes 5W, and 5+21W when you are braking, replacing it with a 2W LED would help. Thesedays you get direct-fit LEDs for tail-lamp.. let me know, if you need help sourcing them.
Ya read it in the R125 community. So it was you who installed the R125 RR unit and rewinded the stator. Good. You on FB? :POriginally posted by awesomeo View PostR125's rectifier + stock stator pumps slightly more current (about 1 - 1.5A) than stock R15 rectified, but that's an expensive affair to procure from junkyards of U.K. Stator upgrade perhaps? You can then enjoy 2 x 55W, the way I do :PLast edited by Raneet; 11-04-2012, 03:05 PM.
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yeah, agreed. But what sort of issues would i be looking at if incase i do upgrade to bigger tyres. Also, when i go over any pothole, the bike wobbles, and i find that really unsafe. Even minute level differences on the road can be felt and the bike skids slightly while going over them. I hate to change the tyre, cause the stock gives the best performance,grip and handling but im compelled in doing so. So, what size according to u would be appropriate. Thanks !Originally posted by akshay View PostI strongly advise you not to do this. From a bad experience earlier (see earlier posts regarding this from me in this section) I can tell you that the tyre width has nothing to do with the quality of the ride. The R15 is an extremely sensitive bike to stock modifications and in the event that you do go ahead with this it will lead to all sorts of problems later on.
Should you wish - I have brand new Duro tyres - the details of which are posted in the buy/sell section.
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Yamaha YZF-R15
^^^ it's not so simple as it being a 'broader / wider'. Putting a broader/ wider tyre does not automatically give you better grip or stability. Along with the increase in width, there also a considerable change in the 'profile' of the tyre. Depending upon which make of tyre it is, there will also be a increase in the 'height' of the tyre. There is also increase in weight of the tyre.
All the above have some type of implications. For example the increase in height will change the weight distribution of the bike while so changing the ride height. These In turn will change the handling dynamics of the bike considerably. The increase in tyre weight translates to increase in unsprung weight. This in turn affects the suspension dampening and rebound rates.Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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Replies in bold red.Originally posted by awesomeo View Post4. R125 Rectifier/Regulator x1 from Pitstop90 - YAMAHA YZF R125 REGULATOR RECTIFIER | eBay
Ok I checked the link but there is no detail regarding the shipping to India. Neither can they calculate. How much did it cost you? How did you get it to India?
5. Hand built 20A Stator Coil with 17AWG(one gauge thicker that stock) insulated copper winding x 600gms (Upgrade the wiring harness which runs from Stator till Rectifier, otherwise it will burn up)
But in the R125 community you said R15 comes with 19AWG and you rewinded with a 18AWG. Someone also told me R15 v1 comes with 20AWG. Confused. Please confirm. Here is the link to your post on the R125 community. http://www.yamahar125.com/threads/r125-stator-assembly-on-r15.4613/#post-59445
6. Real time voltmeter from Navish securely mounted near the Speedo - to give you a heads-up, just incase, something goes wrong.
Any link? Please?
Read more on the stator endeavor here - R125 Stator Assembly On R15? | Yamaha R125 Worldwide Forum
Pictures :

(Stator Circuit Diagram - Poles are alternatively wound)
I've been running on this setup for over 10 months now. The only issue I had was when my stator wiring harness got burnt during a trackday. Upgraded the harness, and plugged it back on..
So when you say you upgraded the harness, what gauze wires did you use for that? Or is there any plug and play upgrade available for the harness?
My Accounts:
Gmail: [email protected]
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RaneetMallick
Myspace: http://www.myspace.com/RaneetMallick
Google+: https://plus.google.com/117067068601145263216
My Threads:
Simple DIY LED Modifications: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...e-simpler.html
My Modified Hero Honda CD 100 SS: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...a-cd100ss.html
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