increase the idling a little and check. Does the bike shut off only when cold or even after engine has been run for a while?

Broader tyres of V2 will make your V1's performance down by some 5-10% . New V2 has re-worked ecu and good low range torque so that wide tyre works out well on V2, But in V1 it will be a pain. Go with stock tyre only!!

No the bike never shuts off when cold. Actually all r15s are having factory fitted side stand, so when I start the bike after even a 15 mints rest (on a side stand ) bikes rpm starts from 1.8. Then takes almost 60 sec to come down to 1.2 rpm. But it never shuts off, even after changing the clutch plate. But after the change it shuts of 2-3 times in a traffic (slow movement) & gear is too hard while shifting from 1st to neutral. Had a discussion with service manager today. They told me to run the bike for more 1-2 days & even if then the prob exists take it to service center.

i can understand that the new clutch plates will take some time to settle in. What i dont get is how that results in engine shutting off in traffic??
increase the idle so that it stays at 1.4 or 1.5 the workshop manual recommends between 1.3 and 1.5

Try Yamaha showrooms, they also stock the tires sometimes, and the front and rear set was sold to me from there at a cheaper price than the market price! With regards to the chain, I think what he meant was since the alloys are different, you will have to change the rim, too. If not, then it wont be worthy to upgrade to the R15 V2.0 tires. Try and search for the stock ones, along with a new chainset (chain and both sprockets).


Lol! We're all doing 4yrs now! I already have the cone set. Will buy a battery tomorrow. Will also take the bike apart, thinking of doing the tappets, cleaning the fuel injector and the pump. With regards to the leaking air, trust me, if your rim is perfect, and the service center guys set the tire right, air does not leak. I had no leakages for almost 6 months!


Maybe the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Try playing with the clutch free-play setting and see if that improves the situation. Did you also get a new clutch cable when you did the clutch overhaul?



Congos man. The 15 looks nice! My bike's paint isn't as good as yours..! Slime works good for a few months. Then goes dry. My friend used it in his FZ, but it started leaking from the same puncture holes after the slime dried up. Realistically, he said there wasn't much of a difference, as tubeless is more puncture resistant anyways.



Whenever you change the tires, you should change them as a set. Replace the front tire immediately.



1) Tire life depends on usage, road conditions. But on an average, they go about 18-20k kms. Never used anything other than stock tires, so dont know about them Pireillis...!
2) I am about to upgrade the battery to 5amps. Will let you know, but AFAIK, it runs without any issues, only it doesn't charge properly, so I've been told.
3) Sprockets and Chain depend heavily on how well you treat them. My first set easily went 18k kms. But within another 12k kms I had to buy my second set. I did not maintain that one too well, so it gave up on me. So treat it well, and it will go 18-20k kms easily. Also dont do wheelies.
4) Well, probably the wheel bearings need greasing. Take a look, and if you feel you need to change, change them. Also lube everything, the swingarm bearings (Also the bearings in the linkage in the monocross suspension, the SVC guys usually ignore this.) the chain, the cone set, et all. That should free everything up. Regarding sluggishness, air filter replacement would help. If your brake pads are glazed (which they probably would be with dust) sand them and use them. If they've gone bad, replace. Wash the steel discs with soap. Removes oil deposits/brake dust and improves braking.


That should take care of it.



Hmm, could you post the specifics of the mod for electrically challenged people ? What lights are you running now?

I haven't used slime but heard that it tends to ooze out of the valves after high speed runs!

Yup-time just flies! I wish I could ride my bike daily like earlier though. The rim and tyre seating is perfect, but there are these micro punctures which leak air slowly like 1-2psi per day. I got a couple of them enlarged&plugged recently, but realized its a futile exercise.

Please tell me how to set idle rpm. Another problem faced today.. sometimes speedo shows 21 kmph & suddenly its jumps to 65 kmph without twisting throttle up & vise verse. Is the speedo gone or the censor & how much is for a new censor??

Speedo censor i think is some where around 700. here is the parts price list Yamaha Parts Price List - 2010: Yamaha OEM Parts Price List
For the Idle RPM http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-idle-rpm.html
My speedo sensor also shows similar antics, sometimes it works perfectly without any problems and sometimes it shows zero or starts showing random numbers. Might be a loose cable or something.
M gonna go to monarch sometime soon, to get the front and rear bearings greased and forks overhauled and also get the brake's overhauled....

Thanks Mate !!, that was a lot of help. Do let me know when and if you upgrade to 5amp.

Hi Guys,

I got myself a 2009 September model blue Yamaha R15 which ran some 18000kms for 66k/-. This bike is in very good condition except for few scratches here and there.

What do you think about the deal? Was the price justified?

Also now, what steps should I take from my side to see that the bike gets back to as new as possible?

Hi Guys,

I am looking for upgrading my headlights to HID.. any suggestions on what are the options available and what will be the cost range? In bangalore so anything local will be preferred

Chetan

Location: JC Road would be a good bet. You can also contact Navanish (Tourer Gear), he is an xbhp member.

Options:

1. Only high beam - Single Xenon H7 - I have been on this setup since the last 6 months n its working fine for me on stock battery. Just that you have to be careful not to flash more when there lights are off or when on low beam since HIDs consume lot of battery during the first 15 secs. Shud cost about 1.5k.

2. High and low beam - Bixenon - A couple of fellow YRCians have been using bi-xenon HIDs for low n high beam (one side) without any problems, stock battery. Shud cost arnd 2k. Need to be careful about flashing lights when lights are off.

3. Only low beam - Single Xenon H7 - I do not know any rider who is running on HIDs only for the low beam so cant comment anything.

I am talking of Chinese made HIDs above. Philips would cost around 6k.

Within HIDs, you have options of 4300k or 6000k. IMO you should go for 4300k since it is brighter.

If u want something more, there are projectors, but then thats a different world

If you live in Bangalore, you must have heard about our lovely man, Navnish? (View Profile: navnish - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community - https://www.facebook.com/navnishn)

I get HIDs from him, and I always recommend him over JC Road thugs! Ping him here or on Facebook!

Ya the price is justified as V1 is in demand, and main thing if you are satisfied than thats it.

Navneesh is selling 35 W 4300 k projector headlight set for 9000/- INR and i have used the hid without projector for around 1 year and it was quiet good, removed it later as the stock reflector are not giving enough illumination to hid after particular time.

See man when you start the bike and leave it on idle for some time it should set at 1400 rpm and than ride, still you face shutting down issues than time to check the engine kill switch as i think sarvajit had same issues and engine kill switch assembly replacement solved his issue out.

the kill switch was the issue with my bike too as u had pointed out at the last g2g, replaced it and now it is working fine.
Puspal's issue though i think was solved after increasing the idle