Got my punctures repaired 7 punctures my god .........

yap
a very hard work in deed

Could you just tell me how much did the tools and the gum or whatever they use to fix costs? I love DIY's basically! So keen on learning.

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Hello everyone, hope you guys are busy riding and scraping the pegs at every possible corners. I can't tell exactly how many kms my bike has run due to odo reset but its about 10K to 12K after the reset. Anyways , she had been regularly serviced at every 1000 ~ 1500 kms. Every 1K or less I change the oil along with oil filter and clean the airfilter,lube the chain. Recently I was pretty busy failing to clean her up.
Recently I've experienced an awkward situation halting with her in the middle of a deserted road 2kms away from my home. The battery( changed to 5A ) is fine, electricals like headlights, indicators are also fine. But failed to start the bike. The ignition system somehow failed..I walked with her home with a regret failing to take proper care. When I press the starter it sounds like trying to ignite but failing due to a faulty spark plug? I went to a local mechanic on my way back with her but he failed to sort it out, he was telling me that the electrical starter device MIGHT be busted failing to provide power( but I dont think so as everything else of the electrical are fine )...he used his pliers to connect the wires above the battery to ignite but failed with same cold starting sound. Later at home I tried to pull out the spark plug (which was a local one, not the stock one) to change it with new spare stock one. I failed to unscrew the spark plug maybe due to improper tools and it was really tight which it should not cause the turns should be 1 and 1/2 with finger tight? I posted about the local spark plug with photos previously but did not get any negative comments about it. As I was busy, I could not change the local spark plug ( which was working pretty fine even in this cold winter).
I am uploading the video of the problem and have some query, looking forward for your kind help. Thanks in advance and happy safe riding guys.


1. Should I change the air filter? or cleaning it properly will be good enough ? ( The airfilter is really dirty )
2. Is this fuel leakage on the air filter holder to the drainage hole and the hose is the air intake hose ? as on the picture attached..
3. Is this a spark plug issue... sorry to bother you by providing just a video.. will take her to a good mechanic as soon as I get time. I thought I could fix it by myself at night after returning home from work.

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ps: sorry as I failed to upload the video with embedded playing option ( couldn't upload to fb,dailymotion,youtube from office )
Video:
http://tinypic.com/r/es0s55/5

its moisture in ur ecu som how take her out in the intese sun heat for the whole day and the run her heard enough to start the fan and then tell me
hard enough dosent mean at high speed but say for example at 1 2 3 gears only at higher rpms to heat up the engine high enough to start the fan
do let me know what happens and by no means go far away from your home
do that with in 1 or two kms from your home




one more thing see if it takes a push start if it does so the check for morning cold self
if it still does so the check when does this happen
Does this happen when engine is cold or when engine is hot enough
now two things
1. if it happens when engine is hot ... then it also should be stalling in between traffic and engine should be stalling in signals
if so then plz check ur engine ideling after the engene is hot enough which should be between 1.2 to 1.3 rpm
2. if it happens when engine is cold then it should be the battary terminal or the battary it self which is weak .
there may be many more reasons . first chek these and then let me know

The profile comes to 72mm for both the V1 front tyre and v2 front tyre. So I think the cone set replacement is a major factor in the free steering movement. The tire also might be a factor, because of the wider contact patch.



If the vibrations stop after you release the brakes and grab them again, it seems like there's air in the brake line, which is causing uneven/pulsating brake feel at the lever. Besides this, another possibility is a bent/warped brake disc. If you have a main stand, try mounting your bike and rotating the front wheel. Check for even rotation, and feather the brake. Anything out of sync will make itself evident.


Logged back into xbhp after a really long time. My bike has done 5yrs now, 53000+ kms and still counting. Recently had a complete overhaul, and its running as good as ever. Only problem now is tyres. I'm not being able to source the stock tyres for my bike. Any help in sourcing stock tyres will be appreciated.

Cheers.

The profile comes to 72mm for both the V1 front tyre and v2 front tyre. So I think the cone set replacement is a major factor in the free steering movement. The tire also might be a factor, because of the wider contact patch.



If the vibrations stop after you release the brakes and grab them again, it seems like there's air in the brake line, which is causing uneven/pulsating brake feel at the lever. Besides this, another possibility is a bent/warped brake disc. If you have a main stand, try mounting your bike and rotating the front wheel. Check for even rotation, and feather the brake. Anything out of sync will make itself evident.


Logged back into xbhp after a really long time. My bike has done 5yrs now, 53000+ kms and still counting. Recently had a complete overhaul, and its running as good as ever. Only problem now is tyres. I'm not being able to source the stock tyres for my bike. Any help in sourcing stock tyres will be appreciated.

Cheers.

finally tyre upgrade !!!

Bike is now equppied with rear zapper vyde ( very very hard to find one ) 120/80 r 17 tyre ...

Here are few pics , hope u guys like them !!

hey everyone, need to know couple of things

First how to get the max out of the headlight tuneups ? AS i tried it a lot but not getting the headlight output as expected.

Secondly, i have put up a 5amp battery and it makes lot of noises when i go through even the smallest pot holes did lot of double taping but the issue is still unresolved.\

Thirdly, if i want to replace the rear sprocket by putting a 2 teeth bigger one and front new one stock will that cause any issues and what chain adjustments i have to do ?

Answers:

1. What exactly do you mean by Headlight tuneup?

2. Insert rubber sheets under and the sides of the battery to remove all free play. Make sure that the battery does not slide out easily.

3. Your bike will feel under geared and will need to rev more to achieve a similar speed as stock gearing. Result, more wear and tear. Chain should not be a problem. I suggest you use the website Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator to run through the gearing data before you try it out.

Bro i tried lot of experiment with H$ 35/40/55/60 bulbs but dont get the output expected which covers a broad range so tried tuning the screws behind the headlight but not getting the illumination expected.

So wondering if there is another way to it.

Ok, got it. Well, here is the thing about motorcycle headlights (and this is applicable to R15 especially, will come to that later); motorcycle headlights will always be inefficient vis-a-vis car headlights. Period!. Reason; limited frontal area in within which to put a head light.

The science of headlights is not just about bulb wattages and brighter lights. It is also about the science of light reflection and refraction. The reason you are not getting a better spread and range is nothing to do with light intensity and everything to do with how the reflectors are designed (reflection) and also how the headlight glass (refraction) has been designed. Take a closer look at the reflectors and the headlight glass and you will notice that both sides are different in the angles and curvature. These angles and curvature are what control the light spread and reach.

In the R15 due to the way the front fairing is designed due to aerodynamic considerations, Yamaha engineers had very little frontal area in which put the headlights. This was tradeoff that was made. Therefore, you are never going to get optimum headlight spread and reach. What you have is a trade off in which the headlights are good enough for 60 to 80 kmph speed on the highway. This is the very limit of the system.

Therefore, it is something that you will have to live with.