I lubed my chain yesterday morning.. Today, I found that the bite of back brake is almost 0.
My bike has run 10k. I still have good amount of brake pads left..
How can I get it rectified?
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I'm looking for used front fairing of Blue Yamaha R15 V1? Is anyone selling?

I'm working on some pet project and I need the front fairing of Blue Yamaha R15 V1.

Any pointers in Bangalore will also help. Thanks.

Hi guys,


My bike is 18k kms old. The thing is, when i run the bike on a flat smooth road, at constant RPM, i feel the power being delivered is kind of jerky. Its not very obvious, and you wont notice it if you just sit and start riding, but if you really try to feel the engine, you might just notice it. It surely cannot be uneven road, i was riding it on mysore's ring road (pretty good smooth tarmac). Also, when i'm riding it on 4-5th gear at 7-8k rpm, i feel like the RPM needle is vibrating(wobbling) a tad more than what its supposed to do.


Now i told this to the SVC folks, but i received really poor service there. My chain and sprockets were due changing ( as told in the last service by the very same mechanic), i told them to change that aswell. When I was finally called to collect the bike, very late like around 7pm, they had already closed down everything, all the mechanics had changed and were about to go home. I noticed that neither the chain/sprocket was changed, and even Oil wasn't changed. They charged me some 500 bucks. On inquiring, since they were in a haste to leave for home, they told "bike perfect, no problem" and went. So apparently, they had not checked anything. Just cleaned the bike, cleaned/lubed the chain and that's that.


Now the bike has run about 5k kms without oil change, chain makes a lot of noise, and the bike is just not smooth. I feel power delivery is very erratic. Also in the r15 v2.0 thread, they mentioned the quality of yamaLube oil also gone down.


Should i go for a fully synthetic oil this time, what grade ? ( there's a shell bunk near my place where they change the oil aswell ).
What could be wrong and what exactly should i tell the mechanic to check for this variance in power delivery ?


Any idea about good mechanics in Mysore ?

Get it checked at 'Scarlet Yamaha'.
I can join you as I know the service incharge very well. We can sort out your problem. PM me your details

My bike has clocked 10.5 kms and around past 2.5k kms on motul 300v
I read in the service manual 'things needed to done at certain intervals'.
At 10k kms it say fork oil needs replacement and coolant oil too
Is it necessary? Okay coolant to some some extent I can agree (although I don't see when replacement) but why fork oil?
This time I shall try out motul 7100 20w50 on hearing Ivin's experience!! But Ivin tell me, isn't this oil too viscous? And when a radiator can do its task pretty well why is it there a need for such a thick oil (my mech says so) which is used on bikes which lack engine cooling system?
Also need clarifications about FFAF's. Which is good among Simota, BMC and K&N?
I read somewhere in earlier posts that color is all that differs from each of it. But what about the built quality? Performance?
And I'm getting FFEs so will be changing my spark plug too. Do I change spark plug cables and spark plug coils along or what?

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Oil, whether Mineral, SS or FS is a riders choice. If you rip her at track, FS is recommended, or you can use SS as recommended by Yamaha. SS is quite good. I believe thickness changes when grade of the oil changes. So I am using a grade which Yamaha recommends. So I dont think I am on the wrong side. Moreover, the bike becomes very smooth and have a longer drain interval compared to SS. If the engine is loving it, let it have FS

PS: Sorry for the late reply bro. Just saw your message now. Quote me next time

Its fine and thank you for the reply.
Got my bike serviced yesterday and got Motul 300v itself as I had the same earlier too. It works just fine for my way of riding too.
Any help w.r.t electricals would help me out. Can you?

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Hello all,

Last week, I accidentally broke the bleed screw off the front brake calliper (R15.v1). As the incident occurred while bleeding the brakes, the brake fluid had been continually draining out.

The best way to get out this screw is to tap and drill, but make sure the drill gets in nice and straight,but there is risk of drilled screw might contaminate the fluid,heat is also one option, or you can puchase extractors available in the market for removing out snapped bolts and screws.

I think the local mechanic did try drilling it out. Having a close look at the calliper, I can't quite figure if the drill bit had snapped in it! I'm not sure about purchasing an extractor; would you happen to know what they cost? Should probably try out the heat method with a heat gun or something; might as well give it a try before purchasing a new calliper.