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**vijith.unnithan** · 04-20-2009, 12:59 PM

Originally posted by darkknight View Post

If you had seen the pads being actually worn out than cannot help.But I have been asked by SS to change pads since 6k mark.(i guesss its their standard suggestion to all to earn something more

)I finally did at 12k with no issues either with the disc or with the pads.

Dk... do you clean your discs... if so can you advise me on this.. i am a layman in these so would wan to make sure the new pads stay for longer duration

**darkknight** · 04-20-2009, 01:06 PM

Originally posted by vijith.unnithan View Post

Dk... do you clean your discs... if so can you advise me on this.. i am a layman in these so would wan to make sure the new pads stay for longer duration

Nope.Nothing special.Only clean with shampoo & water during weekly wash.Other gurus on this forum might be able to help with that.

**ketan_r15** · 04-20-2009, 02:13 PM

Originally posted by HydBiker View Post

Ketan

1) Get the air filter cleaned by blowing air into it (from a distance... else the compressed air can tear the filter paper.

What happened to your cone set problem?

2) 3) & 4) All this depends on how much "paisa" and "khujli" you have.

IMO the best bet is just go for a NGK GPower (Platinum) plug and that's it. K&N is a waste. No performance... if someone swears by it, drag with the bike and also check top speed.. then interchange the riders and check the same thing again. Please let me know the result.

Iridium Plug, I am really not sure how much better it is over the Platinum plug. It should be better but is it worth the buck we pay is a question. Yes, I am running on Iridium, Don't perceive a clear difference except possibly a tiny bit of better acceleration at higher RPM's - which is evident as the regular Nickel plugs do miss a fire frequently at high RPM's. I went in to buy Platinum plug at Rs 120 (MRP Rs 130) but was getting Iridium at Rs 475 (MRP Rs 550) so bought that instead

Spitfire, I have already mentioned many days back that the ignition cable is a sealed type from the HT transformer and the posts here in the last two days confirm a lot abotu that. Just leave that there and forget about it until you have a better way to find out whether just joining the spitfire cables to existing cable does any good or not!

Tyres: They are very good. Yes, would slide in slush (wed slippery mud) but that would be a problem to most tyres. So, slush in slow speeds and gravel/coarse sand in corners, I am not confident... but I am so with any bike... even the tractor (P220 with a Sirac).

Originally posted by santoosh View Post

Hello Ketan,
1) Is there any special care to be taken for this service? My bike is around 6000kms old.
Nothing spl, just normal. Chk coolant level

2) I was thinking of going for K&N for my bike. I have heard that there isn't drastic change in performance of the bike, but what ever little boost it gives, I am fine with it. So is it advisable to go for K&N at this stage of my bike's life? Or is there a certain period after which one shud go for such filters?
not my cup of tea. its all BS
Is there any particular model number or type of K&N to b used for R15? I have no clue of these filters..

3) I was also thinking to go for Iridium spark plugs. Are they good to go?
They are good , they are self cleaning and thats the oly benifit you get.No other differentiable gain.I would stick of platinum or stock and clean them once a month. Iv used iridium for long enough , three sets cos i got them free of cost, nothing really mind blowing.

4) with above mentioned mods, are performance cables like spit fire and all recommended or without them it's fine?
The r15 stock cable is good enough.
Rich boy's accessory i must say.
If ur bike rev's to super hi range and there is a loss in current , then u may need , else NO.
For the ppl who say feel the difference , i dont agree.
Dyno it to know the actual difference. few % , 1-5% oly.

5) I had also asked you guys bout the fatter tyre modification and I got real good help from you people..Thanx for that. I am still not sure if I'll go for those tyres or not but I'll surely think over it..
Stick to stock tyres, else they ll simply hamper ur dynamics , more than the thin tyre , its the curvature of the 100/80 thats helping the bike. My two cents , Stick with it.

Another imp question I have is.. I bought my bike after the last year's monsoon. So I haven't got a chance yet to test my bike's tyres in real wet conditions. So those who have tested your bikes in monsoon, how's the stock tyre performance in wet conditions?
Very Good in rain have done three figures comfortably with confidence, bad in slush .even 20-30kmph in slush is scary.

Also, are IRC tyres good in wet conditions? Other than IRC, are there any other good tyres which you can recommend for R15?
This tyre Sticks to the road like crazy, so u better stick with it. :-D

Santa

Originally posted by digislayer View Post

Depends on the way you drive. If you're a ripper like me, you'd like to check the sparkplug for any skipping fires(the mechs know how to do it),check quality of coolant for any deterioration,you might want to change over to synthetic oil ASAP,tightening of all the nuts and bolts that connect to the frame directly(including the engine manifold nuts),etc in addition to what the manual says. And btw, if your plug is a Denso one, please don't compromise and listen to the mechs if they say "sparkplug achha hi hai"..make the judgement yourself based on the sparking you see.

If you're a gentle rider like Sarvajit, there's nothing much for you to do..general servicing and oil change with a top-up of brakefluids/coolant fluid if necessary along with all the points that everyone else above have said.

KnNs are a NO for now. Atleast until we get the TBR juiceboxes or FIDs.

A lot better I'd say..if taking the engine's long term life into consideration. It maintains the cylinder/piston clean because of lesser unburnt fuel deposits. The advantage of an Iridium plug is not cos of the material, but it is cos of the thinner electrodes it offers. The thinner the electrodes are, the better and brighter and powerful is your spark that comes, even with lesser voltage availability(and this lessening of the voltage availability happens at higher RPMs, more so cos of our bike's battery and electricals). So, the thinner electrodes try to maintain a good level of current even at such low voltages,thus giving better sparks at those RPMs, thus burning more fuel. Even if all this doesn't give you any power or mileage results,it'll atleast help you maintain the engine clean.

Yes, cos the stock cables may hamper the efficiency of the thinner electrodes. Significant levels of the advantage offered by the thin electrodes will be eaten away by a high resistance/fatter cable(which normally comes as stock cables to handle the high voltage and high currents of the fatter electrodes,cost reduction of spares).

And about point number 5, what everyone told is right...stick to the stock like Santa says. The stock tyre is good on water,it's only slush/mud/sand that you should be scared of. You're good as long as your tyres are on the road,doesnt matter even if there's water on the road.

Hey guys, it's really good to see the response to my queries..It's very very helpful for me... From all the above suggestions..wht I've come down to is..

1) Nothing special care is to be taken for this service except following all the points given in the manual and a few extras like checking all the nuts n bolts.

2) K&N is a no no from you guys for R15. But kindly tell me what must have been the reason to that extra performance of the rider I met during Parx supercar show ride? He rode an R15 with K&N. He managed to pull away on almost every drag beating me and Shadowboy's R15. As far as I remember, I shifted gears very close to red line but still he could manage to get slight lead in every gear. It's not that bothersome to me, but am just curious to know if that was because of the K&N he had installed or because of his weight. He weighs only 60-65kgs and I weigh around 80-85. So that may have made the difference.

Wht ever be it, I am investing in K&N right now.

3) Going for Iridium/Platinum spark pulgs is not bad idea.

4) Spit fire cables are really not needed for R15, as the stock ones are sealed types and can't b completely replaced.

5) Stock tyres are good in wet road conditions..

Thanx a lot guys for helping me in decision making. I'll go by these decisions during my next service.

I was supposed to go for servicing today but couldn't do that.

Actually there's a slight prob. As mentioned my bike has a cone set prob.

I first showed the prob to excellent yamaha. They didn't open and check anything but straight away decided to change the cone set. Part wasn't in stock so they placed an order around a week ago. But still the part hasn't arrived. I didnt want to keep my bike like that for more days so I talked to my friend Darkknight and checked if SS near him has the part or not. They had the part.

I had decided to go to SS near DK's house but then I was shocked after listening the price. Excellent Yamaha had told me the price of Cone set as Rs. 1400/- and now Naman Yamaha guy tells me the price as Rs. 3300/-

I was bloody shocked. When asked bout the price difference he told me that excellent Yam guy must not have considered all the parts. I dont understand why is that.

Seeing this confusion, I decided to talk to my usual service guy at Thomsun Auto and when I told him bout the problem. He said that no need to change the part right now. R15's cone set doesn't get beyond repair so early. They are ball cage or something sort of cone sets and many time, dry greace is the reason behind cone set malfunction. Now this was of some sort of reliefe to me. He has asked me to get my bike to him tomorrow and upon inspection he'll take the decision..

phewww...enough said.. all this has been so much confusing to me and I was damn worried..

Anyways, let's see wht the prob comes up tommorrow..

But still, if someone has changed the cone set till now or if someone knows the exact price of the part, please do tell me here. Cause the price difference is huge here and it's very confusing..

Thanx for all the help till now guys..
Keep rocking..

And yeah, @ digislayer, I am a blend of both styles sort of rider

I am very gentle in city riding and a ripper on long rides.

am I right DK?

**saurabhdayal84** · 04-20-2009, 04:49 PM

tank pad

guys where can i get cheap tank pads in bangalore(preferably in kormangla) ????
yamaha showroom is charging 900

**Priyatam** · 04-20-2009, 05:02 PM

Originally posted by saurabhdayal84 View Post

guys where can i get cheap tank pads in bangalore(preferably in kormangla) ????
yamaha showroom is charging 900

900/- for Yamaha tank pad

I got one for Rs 700/- here in Hyderabad

**pudix** · 04-20-2009, 05:04 PM

From what killer said in that thread about the bikeindia mistake, I would say that K and N wouldn't do much for your bike. R15 has an open loop FI system, which would imply that any change in the amount of air being fed to the combustion chamber will not have any effect on the corresponding amount of fuel going in. This would make the bike run lean. Ofcourse, if you can have the amount of fuel going in controlled (for which you'd need the FID tool), it should work.

**saurabhdayal84** · 04-20-2009, 05:15 PM

Originally posted by Priyatam View Post

900/- for Yamaha tank pad

I got one for Rs 700/- here in Hyderabad

wat color is ur bike and which color tank pad did u put???
post pic if possible

**thy** · 04-20-2009, 05:24 PM

Originally posted by saurabhdayal84 View Post

wat color is ur bike and which color tank pad did u put???
post pic if possible

No color options in Yamaha Tankpads, only checker design.
chk this post for the pics uploaded by DriftKingNT

Yamaha YZF-R15 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcycle-ownership-experiences/4854-yamaha-yzf-r15-92.html#post128333

Share what you think about the motorcycle you own or have owned in the past.

**Priyatam** · 04-20-2009, 06:11 PM

Originally posted by saurabhdayal84 View Post

wat color is ur bike and which color tank pad did u put???
post pic if possible

I've got a red one... and as said by thy, no color options in Yam tank pads... black is the only one available.

**sveetvenom** · 04-20-2009, 10:27 PM

HELP NEEDED- rejuvenation!!!!!

The stupid service guy at perfect riders recommended me semi-synthetic after my first service and i was dumb enough to go in for it,...i was even dumber to ride my bike real hard just after 1000 kms (i could not control the below 5k rpms crap anymore),..i took the bike to 10k rpms,and did 135 a few times..and ever since i am really disappointed with the performance,...the mid end sucks now,...guys i desperately need help,..id do anything to take my bike back to the old form,..pls advice!!!!!!

**vibhanshu** · 04-20-2009, 10:53 PM

Originally posted by sveetvenom View Post

The stupid service guy at perfect riders recommended me semi-synthetic after my first service and i was dumb enough to go in for it,...i was even dumber to ride my bike real hard just after 1000 kms (i could not control the below 5k rpms crap anymore),..i took the bike to 10k rpms,and did 135 a few times..and ever since i am really disappointed with the performance,...the mid end sucks now,...guys i desperately need help,..id do anything to take my bike back to the old form,..pls advice!!!!!!

Take it easy. R15 doesnt give up so easily. Continue your riding at 5-6 RPM for a couple of days. If I am not mistaken then the engine should rough right now and not at all smooth. It will just vanish in a couple of days. R15 changes its characteristics very frequently, especially till 2 services. But be careful next time. First 2 service will decide the fate of your bike. Ride safe! (Hope you got the oil filter changed in 1st service).

**sveetvenom** · 04-20-2009, 11:07 PM

Originally posted by vibhanshu View Post

Take it easy. R15 doesnt give up so easily. Continue your riding at 5-6 RPM for a couple of days. If I am not mistaken then the engine should rough right now and not at all smooth. It will just vanish in a couple of days. R15 changes its characteristics very frequently, especially till 2 services. But be careful next time. First 2 service will decide the fate of your bike. Ride safe! (Hope you got the oil filter changed in 1st service).

will do that,il stick to under 5k revs,service guys did say that oil filter was changed,but im no way sure,how do i ensure it?,also i am planning a oil change back to mineral,ts been 700kms aft my 1st service.

**vibhanshu** · 04-20-2009, 11:10 PM

Originally posted by sveetvenom View Post

will do that,il stick to under 5k revs,service guys did say that oil filter was changed,but im no way sure,how do i ensure it?,also i am planning a oil change back to mineral,ts been 700kms aft my 1st service.

Thats okay. Semi synth will not harm your bike. As you've already done 700kms then theres no point shifting back. Its not the semi synth that causing the damage, its your riding. No offence!

**HydBiker** · 04-20-2009, 11:34 PM

^^^ and check your service bill... Oil Filter costs abt Rs 430 and if you have paid for it it should have been changed and there is no easy way to identify an oil filter if it is a new one or a used one once it touches oil.

**digislayer** · 04-21-2009, 12:20 AM

1[ATTACH]6199[/ATTACH] 2[ATTACH]6200[/ATTACH]

3[ATTACH]6201[/ATTACH]

4[ATTACH]6202[/ATTACH] 5[ATTACH]6203[/ATTACH]

These are the Engine Manifold nuts that I was talking about(all surrounded by red circles drawn by me in the pictures):

Nut 1:
Shown in picture 1 and 2. Picture 1 is the location, and picture 2 shows the nut that needs to be tightened. This was the most loose nut that I found in all the four nuts.

Nut 2:
Picture 3 shows the bolt of this nut. Its nut is hidden at the other side behind the front sprocket cover and cannot be accessed until the cover is removed.

Nut 3:
Picture 4 shows the location and picture 5 shows the close up of the nut.

Nut 4:
Can be seen if we bend down and look at the bike's underside..sorry, couldn't take a picture!

Note: Anybody see the pipe which's left open in Picture 1? It's within the green rectangle that I made. Does anybody know what it is for and why it's left static like that and not under usage?

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