Time pass.

5W each. No idea about yamaha pilot consumption. But i used 1w leds.

It can be a bit complicated when you wire it if you haven't done it before but i'll try to keep it simple.

I learnt doing it myself when I wired up my bike and then for my friends. HIDs were bought from Navnish and running great since 13+ months without any issues.

I suggest you run the stock switch setup with your hids. You'll need a 5 pin relay. Bosch ones cost around 115 mrp. For the right beam you can fit the hid directly as the wiring needs to be setup only for the low beam. If required add a Relay and a fuse.

For your query: 3. Both glow when you press the ''flasher'' button

If your set up using a relay it might be a 4Pin relay as it'll give the same problem as you'r facing now (A wrong combo gets both L-R beams working simultaneously in Hi and Low settings). But with a 5 pin relay this issue is resolved. You just need to drop one wire in the combination and it'll work in the way you described. With the correct combination disabled you'll get 1&2. For 3: With the switch in Lowbeam if you press the pass switch you'll activate Low-and High together.

But I strongly suggest that if you know how to wire it up, using a 5 pin relay you can get the stock switch settings for the HID. That way in Low mode only left works, in High both L-R work and pass light will activate both Hi-Lo simultaneously. Same as stock. This is the best setup and safe one. Because if you do it like No.3 then while riding in the night you will loose visibilty for atleast 10 seconds when the right one fully powers up while the low is switched off.

I might be passing through mysore sometime next month. Could show this to ya if in case you can't figure it out. I could do a DIY for this but lack of time just makes it impossible.

Used some locally available one. My friend had a few extra from his older bike and gave them to me since he wasn't using them.

(This would be my 3900+) + current number if the data from the old xbhp was still there

I didnt use the Yamaha ones so I've no idea. No Yamaha aftermarket bits on my bike. Just HIDs from Navnish and Roots horn that's it.

Navnish has some cool LEDs with him AFAIK, check with him regarding the same. And stick to stock headlight adjustments, they are the best.






My stock rear lasted 9.5K kms and front 12.35K. Lot of hard riding on the twisties, off-roading and city commutes. 48K is almost unbelievable unless your riding at a snails pace but it's a good thing nonetheless.

Check brake kit, brake pads + disc, If the latter two are fine then most likely it's the brake kit at fault. Also check reservoir oil level and replace front disc if necessary. Mine has some groves on it but the bike still brakes very well.

Don't worry as long as there are no leaks from the radiator. I had a lot of them bent on mine but not a single leak but got it replaced for free anyway at 21K kms.

And it's the relay making the clicking sound. It's fine.


Works on DC too afaik and atleast on the R15 it does. Try keeping the Hi-Low switch in the centre and you'll have better illumination on your stock bulbs than when it's on Hi.

Same here-I got it simply for the fact that I don't have to change it again too soon!

Those Yamaha LEDs are hopeless-they hardly last a month or two. I used 2 pairs (2nd was under warranty replacement)&finally found out that 100 buck LEDs last forever!

I also got mine done a few days back before riding down to Bangalore. I thought there was no leak, but when opened, there was a small leak found.
Btw, how is Panache? I had gone there the other day but felt that they would take too long so I got a chain spray can from Perfect when I went to watch a movie nearby.

@Shivanshu: I'm leaving my bike here-will take it next month.

Is it safe to use Valvoline 4T Premium 20w50 oil in R15?

I'll try my best to understand what you just posted, but even if I do, lets meet up when you do pass by this city We can discuss our bikes (rofl)

Hmm, the R15 manual recommends the use of SAE 20W40 Grade engile oil. I am running 15W50 Grade. I don't know if 20W50 is compatible

My bike is from 2008 batch & the manual says 20w40 grade. According to some owners here both 20w40/20w50 grade is mentioned in newer manual.

Yes, you are right, the newer manual recommends both 20W40 and 20W50 grades of Engine oil. If you want to go for premium branded oils, I would recommend MOTUL or Mobil1. They are of exceptional quality and offer great value for money. They come in both Fully Synthetic (for higher revving) and Semi-synthetic (regular riding) forms.

I am personally running on the Motul Fully Synthetic 15W50 engine oil. No complaints. Performance is very good

@ KwokFist

I have these HIDs with a halogen bulb setup. Its got a halogen low beam and an HID high beam. I want to make the HIGH beam in the left side light up and not the halogen low beam. What do I do for that? The same relay technique? I have attached a pic of my HID bulb. ITS NOT A BI-XENON. Its only got the high beam as the HID, the low beam, the halogen switches on. I bought these for varied reason, but now, in the low beam, the halogen switches on, and its not BRIGHT :P Can you suggest some alternative? Don't wanna buy new bulbs..

Ya Motul is great but unfortunately its out of stock in my place. In P220 thread someone claimed that Valvoline 4T Premium is as good as Motul 5100 SS thats why am I'm thinking of using it.

P220 is an altogether different bike, so, its tough to compare engine oils on that with the R15. R15 even revvs much higher and climbs the rev range faster, so, the engine oil that works really well on the P220 ''might'' not work as well in the R15 ... anyway, you try and let us know about the performance

any one knw the price of chain and sprocket set.. someone( i think tibby) posted dat yamaha reduced price of chain set..

Quick help: R15 tire puncture

Hi, Would really appreciate a quick reply to my query, as I'm unable to ride the bike, and public transport really sux.

Last week, while returning home from work, I found the font tyre completly deflated. Went to a nearby petrol pump(riding very gently) a km away. The guy incharge of filling air said that there must be a puncture.

Now, I had experienced loss of air in the tyres quite frequently, and had read similar stories on this forum as well, hence had thought that all the air had escaped with time.

The tyre guy examined the tyre and found a piece of rubber torn, from which air was readily escaping, after he had filled air. Now, he said he had a patch that could be applied, to cover the puncture, and asked 100 bucks for it. When I said it was too high, he replied saying that tubeless tyre punctures cost as much. I refused and rode away with the tyre filled with air. The tyre must have lost all air the next morning, and I've been travelling by the shitty public transport since then.

The reason I didnt go to the local tyre walla to repair the puncture was bcoz I wasnt sure how the torn off rubber(please see pics below) shud be taken care of.

Shud the entire tyre be replaced? How much does it cost(front tyre)? Or cud a patch be applied(along with a sealant that I've heard seals tubeless tyre punctures).


[Wife says the rubber tore coz I had ridden the bike with very low air-pressure. CUd this be, from the look of it?]



Thanks.

hi all
I have a query...I'll be out of station for a month...please let me know how to keep my Bike Well and Sound in my absence.
I don't want the battery to drain out so I'm thinking to leave my Bike at a Friend's so that he can start the Engine for some time 2-3 times a Week to keep the juice intact. Please advice

RIDE SAFE

Ive put the Continental ContiGo on the front (same dimensions) last week. My stock front tyre had a slight bubble on the side which was due to a cut on the inside of the tyre. It had done 17.5k. The stock tyre wasnt available anywhere. Did research on the net & found good reviews for the ContiGo. Am happy with the tyre so far, did some hard braking to check the grip.

I had replaced my rear also a few thousand kms ago. It was getting frequently punctured & it too had a cut on the inside. This with normal city riding, very occassional long trips & 1 track day. At that time also the stock tyre was not available. 48k on stock tyres is phenomenal. Maybe Ive had bad luck with my stock tyres.

HAd to replace the sprockets & the chain also. Got the cone set & the swingarm greased. Air filter was also cleaned. Bike feels good as new.

Sure. I hope using it won't harm my engine or reduce acceleration.

any idea guys??