mine is a 2010 model. i use regular fuel(87,88,91 or whatever) and rides real hard. just fill up from a good pump. for a 10.4 compression engine 91 octane is more than enough. i've heard from team bhp that the additives in higher octane fuels clogging the fuel injectors of skodas. and you are also wasting money on high octane fuels. joel also states that he uses normal fuel on his 12.xx compression r15.
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there is no performance difference b/w a 2008 and 2010. it is all the same. the older bikes have their engine internals worn to the correct specifications smoothing out the entire engine. your bike will also feel stronger after an year or so if you do the maintenance right. and stop worrying about fuels and other silly things and ride that thing. me too was paranoid while i was a new owner. almost everyone goes through that stage.Originally posted by Ascetic View Post
mine is a 2010 model. i use regular fuel(87,88,91 or whatever) and rides real hard. just fill up from a good pump. for a 10.4 compression engine 91 octane is more than enough. i've heard from team bhp that the additives in higher octane fuels clogging the fuel injectors of skodas. and you are also wasting money on high octane fuels. joel also states that he uses normal fuel on his 12.xx compression r15.Last edited by FATAL1TY - X; 11-01-2010, 11:57 AM.2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
1990 Yamaha RX110
2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
2018 TVS Apache RR 310
2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi
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3 BHP? OMG, that's impossible! The entire Yamaha racing kit doesn't promise more than 4-5 BHP, that too, with high lift cams, racing spec ECU, Two Brother Racing exhausts, larger sprockets etc etc! Just a filter giving an improvement of 3 BHP is NOT possibleOriginally posted by dileep.anirudh View PostYea ppl here told me the same, but wen i spoke with with the shop guy he said 3bhp is increased and no harm. Infact he has fitted it to 30+ R`5 in chennai and even i saw a demo on R15. It was good indeed so i went with it>...
Don't expect that much of a difference. It'll probably give you ''slightly'' more Torque at mid range, but everything else will be the same. The entire Yamaha Daytona kit is approx. 70k in the showrooms :P
D'oh!
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RTR180 brake and clutch levers cannot be fitted directly on your R15.You will have to change the entire switch gear for that.Instead, find out for some aftermarket levers made for R15 at your place.They must be easily available there.Originally posted by Parth View PostAlso, do the RTR180 levers fit the R15? coz they looks nicer
D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb
A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.
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OH i see . Thanks...!Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Postthere is no performance difference b/w a 2008 and 2010. it is all the same. the older bikes have their engine internals worn to the correct specifications smoothing out the entire engine. your bike will also feel stronger after an year or so if you do the maintenance right. and stop worrying about fuels and other silly things and ride that thing. me too was paranoid while i was a new owner. almost everyone goes through that stage.
mine is a 2010 model. i use regular fuel(87,88,91 or whatever) and rides real hard. just fill up from a good pump. for a 10.4 compression engine 91 octane is more than enough. i've heard from team bhp that the additives in higher octane fuels clogging the fuel injectors of skodas. and you are also wasting money on high octane fuels. joel also states that he uses normal fuel on his 12.xx compression r15.
Fun begins only after 6K rpm.....!
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Just an update. Can't find time with my rotational shifts...
:x
The bike got a host of parts. The footpeg section was replaced. Now the footpeg is aligned properly. Earlier it was slanting downwards (was a real pain during rains, as my foot used to slip off). I also felt an increase in comfort, as now the right leg is more relaxed.
Have bought the steering T. Will put it in sometime. Also the oil's been changed, and the chain will be replaced coming thursday (I can see Sheel smiling).

I heard there's a heavy demand of R15 chainsets. Dunno in other cities. Will also replace the spark plug, front brake pads (do bleeding as well).
Sheesh, so the point of this post is guys, please don't crash your R15s. I'm trying to bring back the new bike feeling. But its a lot simpler if the bike doesn't fall.
You get the point?? :D
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It would be nicer if you read the posts slowly, & carefully before commenting. I'm highlighting the keywords of my post in red.Originally posted by ZeNashB View PostAre you saying we just have to LUBE our chain for a smoother gear shifting pattern? Woah, what a conclusion because of just one experience! I don't see how lubing the chain and the gears have any relation? The max the chain lubrication can reach is the DRIVEN SPROcket and the DRIVER Sprocket. Nothing else gets lubed. The gears are inside the engine compartment, in th GEARBOX.
What I could think of is, you havn't put in the right amount of engine oil, which is resulting in UNEVEN distribution of the oil inside the gearbox. This causes the shifts to be smooth sometimes and hard the other times...
Hoping it makes more sense to you now.
Originally posted by tibby View PostHence, those of you facing hard gear-shifts, an insufficiently lubed chain could be the culprit.
The plastic parts of the LE is costlier than that of other colours. Look at digislayer's parts price link. You will find all details there.Originally posted by Parth View PostDoes anyone has info about the cost of the Limited edition white red R15's fairings? I got to know from a friend that they are costlier than the other normal colours hence asking.
I need:
Outer fairing (with r15 decal) :L & R both
inner fairing (with mesh) :L & R both
Headlight fairing/cowl
Tail panel (the plastics where the pillion's thighs would be....is this clear or shall i upload a pic for the same) :L side
Exhaust cover
Exhaust cap
Also I need to replace my foot brake lever, cost please?
I have some scratches on my clutch and front brake levers and I was thinking about replacing them too. Cost? Also, do the RTR180 levers fit the R15? coz they looks nicer
How much labour will the svc charge for all this?
I'm doing all this as after 4 crashes (equally divided on both sides), my fairings are badly scratched. I had touched up the left side fairings but after I opened them up due to some vibrations, I found out that the inner brackets that hold the fairings together are broken. So the only 100% way to get everything back to perfect levels is to replace the whole thing.
I also have some doubts about insurance claims. As far as I know, I get 50% for the plastics. My questions are:
1. Do I get the claim for just 1 side?
2. What and how much are documentation charges?
3. Will my insurance cover labour charges to put the plastics on?
4. How much time can I expect my bike to be stranded at the svc for the claim purposes? (I have pretty good relations with the svc manager + showroom owner and also the mechanics)
Was this change required as you hit a pothole at high speeds?Originally posted by svjhonda View PostHave bought the steering T. Will put it in sometime.
How much has your bike covered on the existing chain?Originally posted by svjhonda View Postthe chain will be replaced coming thursday (I can see Sheel smiling).

Did it wear out because of normal wear-tear OR due to lack of maintenance OR some other reason?
My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240
The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.
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oooh yeah, i am also smiling. waiting for that speed check.Originally posted by svjhonda View Postand the chain will be replaced coming thursday (I can see Sheel smiling).
2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
1990 Yamaha RX110
2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
2018 TVS Apache RR 310
2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi
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Originally posted by Parth View Post
I have some scratches on my clutch and front brake levers and I was thinking about replacing them too. Cost? Also, do the RTR180 levers fit the R15? coz they looks nicer
U will have to get your levers nickel plated...It may cost around Rs.200 for both the levers...
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+1 to that brother. All who know me don't need to ask my new year's resolution.Originally posted by svjhonda View PostSheesh, so the point of this post is guys, please don't crash your R15s. I'm trying to bring back the new bike feeling. But its a lot simpler if the bike doesn't fall.


I saw that but It doesn't contain info about the higher pricing of the LE bikes, hence asked here.Originally posted by tibby View PostThe plastic parts of the LE is costlier than that of other colours. Look at digislayer's parts price link. You will find all details there.
I too am interested in knowing that. Plus it'd be great if anyone could answer my question, I rode my bike about 300-400 kms without any lubing (I had cleaned with kerosene but before I could lube, something kinda bad happened and I couldn't do it). Will it severely damage my chain set?Originally posted by tibby View PostHow much has your bike covered on the existing chain?
Did it wear out because of normal wear-tear OR due to lack of maintenance OR some other reason?
Also, I'm using SAE90 gear oil for lubing these days and that chain noise starts up after 150-200kms of riding. Am I doing it wrong or is it supposed to start after 150-200kms? ANy major drwabacks of using SAE90?(apart from the fact that the damn chain sprays hell lot of oil on my LE white rims
)
Thanks for the info buddy, will try to get that done. (Or I may as well change them, the right one is ground quite a bit due to my last crashOriginally posted by painreloaded View PostU will have to get your levers nickel plated...It may cost around Rs.200 for both the levers...
)
Thanks for the info buddy. I think I'm gonna stick to the r15's levers for a while as I don't know much about after-market products and don't want my bike to be a guinea pigOriginally posted by Drifty View PostRTR180 brake and clutch levers cannot be fitted directly on your R15.You will have to change the entire switch gear for that.Instead, find out for some aftermarket levers made for R15 at your place.They must be easily available there.
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Have you ever compared your ride with the old model side by side???and how many miles did your baby clock till now???Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Postthere is no performance difference b/w a 2008 and 2010. it is all the same. the older bikes have their engine internals worn to the correct specifications smoothing out the entire engine. your bike will also feel stronger after an year or so if you do the maintenance right. and stop worrying about fuels and other silly things and ride that thing. me too was paranoid while i was a new owner. almost everyone goes through that stage.
mine is a 2010 model. i use regular fuel(87,88,91 or whatever) and rides real hard. just fill up from a good pump. for a 10.4 compression engine 91 octane is more than enough. i've heard from team bhp that the additives in higher octane fuels clogging the fuel injectors of skodas. and you are also wasting money on high octane fuels. joel also states that he uses normal fuel on his 12.xx compression r15.
Fun begins only after 6K rpm.....!
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Well said!Originally posted by digislayer View Post3bhp from just an air filter, without even tuning the FI? :O That shopkeeper must be super-humane!
These shopkeepers will say anything and everything to sell their products, it's up to us to make out the facts from the myths. K&N will increase the power only marginally, that too if any. We're still unsure whether an untuned engine gives any gains with K&N. But even if it does, it's only marginal.
Maybe you didn't ask him the right questions. :POriginally posted by Ascetic View PostNaah thats not gonna work because that guy doesnt seem to be interested in replying to my mail according to the mods..!
Have u ridden both the models side by side??? Then u feel the performance difference in both....!
I have ridden the 08 and 10 and I own a 09 R15 (same as the 08). There's not much difference other than the new one being smoother than mine as it was only 2K kms old and mine had run about 22K kms. I did feel that my bike accelerated quicker during a back to back comparo (the newer bike's powerband felt more linear compared to mine) and during the runs through the city the other bike was behind me but i suspect that had to be the rider riding slower than me as opposed to the new bike being less powerful. But this is not the most ideal way of testing.
Your options are limited as far as increasing the power of a stock bike. Adding an aftermarket filter won't do any good. One can claim any amount of power but a half decent rider on a stock R15 will take out the bike with such silly mods. The real power is always made by the engine. PERIOD.
Get hold of Joel if you are serious about performance on the R15. I personally know how well his bike runs and couple of others done up by him and that's why I vouch for him.
Sounds like 30+ Bakras to me!Originally posted by dileep.anirudh View PostYea ppl here told me the same, but wen i spoke with with the shop guy he said 3bhp is increased and no harm. Infact he has fitted it to 30+ R`5 in chennai and even i saw a demo on R15. It was good indeed so i went with it>...

They promise a LOT but deliver less than half the claimed figures. The cam is a mild lift cam. The exhaust doesn't bring much performance either. The ECU raises the rev limiter but the stock valve springs aren't built to take the load beyond 11K rpm and can cause valve float. These two bits of performance from the Yamaha-Kit don't give you 3-4 BHP at all. I think Joel is offering race spec valve springs to take care of the shortcomings of the stock valve springs.Originally posted by ZeNashB View Post3 BHP? OMG, that's impossible! The entire Yamaha racing kit doesn't promise more than 4-5 BHP, that too, with high lift cams, racing spec ECU, Two Brother Racing exhausts, larger sprockets etc etc! Just a filter giving an improvement of 3 BHP is NOT possible
Don't expect that much of a difference. It'll probably give you ''slightly'' more Torque at mid range, but everything else will be the same. The entire Yamaha Daytona kit is approx. 70k in the showrooms :P
Last edited by KwokFist; 11-01-2010, 05:49 PM.--------------------------------
Own:
2009 Yamaha YZF-R15
2009 Ford Fiesta 1.6S
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Fuel Your Motoring Passion!
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actually the blog does contain the info bout pricing. On the R15 parts catalog page you can check for part numbers of both LE version and normal version. If you notice, they'll have different part numbers for the same parts. And if you look up both these part numbers of the same part in the "price list", they're priced differently. Did you know that the new localized ecu costs around 4k Rs while d 2008 one costs around 9k Rs? You can check it there.Originally posted by Parth View PostI saw that but It doesn't contain info about the higher pricing of the LE bikes, hence asked here.
Also, I'm using SAE90 gear oil for lubing these days and that chain noise starts up after 150-200kms of riding. Am I doing it wrong or is it supposed to start after 150-200kms? ANy major drwabacks of using SAE90?(apart from the fact that the damn chain sprays hell lot of oil on my LE white rims
)
And, about the SAE 90, I recently tried it and it doesn't stay on the chain at all for me. By the time it runs 15kms to my coll, the oil spills out completely and by the time it does another 15kms back to my home, the chain is almost dry. My advice, it's useless. And also, dont sweat about those kms you did without lubing. Just take care of it in the future. My chain lasted around 20k kms with minimal maintenance, very minimal. So, I think it'r better to spend 2k Rs on a new chainset every 20k kms than buying a set of lube+cleaner twice. I think it's not practical to use more than 2 or 3 lube sets per chain. But that's just my opinion.
Originally posted by KwokFist View PostWell said!
Sounds like 30+ Bakras to me!

My doubt is, are the stock springs good for even the stock rev limiter? I somehow feel lik my bike's valves float at around 8.5k-9k...but it could be incorrect spark gap too. Just need to confirm..Originally posted by KwokFist View Postthe stock valve springs aren't built to take the load beyond 11K rpm and can cause valve float.Last edited by digislayer; 11-01-2010, 06:43 PM.Sunny.
Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)
A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!
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I want that video, NOWOriginally posted by svjhonda View Post(I can see Sheel smiling).
Have successfully managed till now, hope to continue the same.But its a lot simpler if the bike doesn't fall.
Increase in power with filters, YES. But it is mentally. The bike breaths freer because of K&N (resulting in a minuscule increase in performance, not power) nothing more nothing less.Last edited by sheelpriye; 11-01-2010, 06:51 PM.
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^No warranty, but Insurance yes..Super CommuTOURer� - Talk less, Ride more
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