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Yamaha YZF-R15
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yeah it should be enough, just check the expiry of the tube brother or u can buy a small tube and keep it with yourself.Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
Save the Earth - We are the one who are running out of time, as Earth will take it own time to heal but that time may not be enough for us.
http://www.ridesafewith.me
I dont just ride my bikes, I live with them.
Yamaha RX100 (1987 model)
Yamaha YZF R15 (2010 model)
Hero Impulse (2012 model)
Mahindra Thar (2015 model)
GIRed 2012
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Chill bro, I didn't say I go in traffic like I would have in a track. That's downright stupid. I just said that I love the feeling of the Torque pulling the bike when its in the powerband (8.5k RPM). Riding gear is a must for everyone and nobody's chicken-hearted just because they dont wanna push their bikes. The important thing is we must know our limits.Originally posted by sheelpriyeAn R15's limiter cuts in at 10002 revs.
You don't go below 7 and don't up shift till you reach 10, makes sense?
Anyways, I am out of this debate and salute you all who ride like man possessed.(inside city confines with d0gs/cyclists/autos) I am chicken hearted and allow all and sundry to get past me and smile.
And still have spent around 40K on riding gears alone. Wish I had a stronger heart. And I am crying that my pencil is shortest and bluntest amongst all here.
What I was referring to, instead, was when I ride on this awesome road in my city that winds its way up a hill. Its where I keep my bike above 9k RPM and when I shift higher, there's a small tendency to lose torque so I instantly shift down again and push it harder :P
Regular city driving, I just stay in the right gear. I never take any gear below 3.5k RPM and above 7.5k. Keeps the engine stress-free.
D'oh!
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Yeah, motul lasts longer...but the inertia is noticeable to me. In fact, I even feel this inertia when using YamaLube SS. I just wish I can find an affordable FS oil which has better temperature tolerance than Sprinta 5000 at the same viscosity rating. And yes, I make sure I change the oil within 2k kms...no matter which oil it is :POriginally posted by Sarvajit View PostIn that case, you are better off with a 15w50 Motul/Yamalube oil. Its thicker&should last you atleast 2.5K kms. In my case (stopped redlining these days), I used for almost 4.5K kms.&the viscosity was still fine, though the color was black as charcoal!
First of all, sorry if you feel anything in my previous posts, but there was nothing meant or intended. I'm not even trying to debate. And I was talking about the rpm as per the stock tacho, so error included. And please note....like I said, my college route is not a city street. I do follow rules and care about safety of both myself and fellow road users when I'm on city streets, but I hardly use my bike on those streets. My coll route is such that you cant see anything but trees on either side of the road, it's built for heavy vehicles which use it only during off-peak timings. Basically a bypass road connected to the national highwayOriginally posted by sheelpriyeAn R15's limiter cuts in at 10002 revs.
You don't go below 7 and don't up shift till you reach 10, makes sense?
Anyways, I am out of this debate and salute you all who ride like man possessed.(inside city confines with d0gs/cyclists/autos) I am chicken hearted and allow all and sundry to get past me and smile.
And still have spent around 40K on riding gears alone. Wish I had a stronger heart. And I am crying that my pencil is shortest and bluntest amongst all here.
. And ofcourse I always use whatever gear I can afford, nothing's left at home when I'm on my bike.
Sunny.
Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)
A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!
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Dry chain & gear-shifts
I have covered about 800Kms on the Motul SS 5100 (15W50). The engine & gearshifts were very smooth for the first few hunderd Kms (after scheduled service & oil change), but gradually the gearshifts became hard.
I had almost come to a conclusion that the Motul SS is just a notch better than the Yamalube SS, until this morning.
I lubed the chain this morning (though it wasn't too dry), and saw the gearshifts become almost as smooth as on the bike when new.
The only changes in the bike between yesterday & today are that I got a tank-full of petrol (Shell, as earlier), tyre pressure checked (which was ok), & chain lubed.
Since petrol & tyre pressure were ok earlier also (& I don't think contribute to smoother gearshifts), the smoother gearshifts are on account of a well lubed chain.
Hence, those of you facing hard gear-shifts, an insufficiently lubed chain could be the culprit.
Thanks guys! Seems like the radiator on my bike is working just fine.Originally posted by veyron999 View Posti don't think it turns on again..
as somebody said earlier that most of the vehicles have cooling systems working in a similar manner..
although i have not tried it on the R15, but it doesn't start again in my car - WagonR.. so i guess it is programmed that way..Originally posted by digislayer View PostLike I said, it'll kick in, if the engine temperature is still equal to or more than 98 degrees. But, by that time, it's very rare that the temperature doesn't drop below 95 degrees. The moment the fan kicks in itself the temperature is instantly and constantly lowered and maintained. You'll know this if you connect an FID to the bike(yes, it shows temperature readings). So, by the time you turn it to ignition again, the temperature is below the required level for the fan atleast 95-99% of the times, atleast in the case of R15, it being a single cylindered 150cc bike.
I do not have an FID, hence assuming its all fine as the fan does kick-in when the bike overheats.
Even I wanted to know the contents after my FA kit got utilised in falls of 2 fellow riders (on 2 different rides), until I got a list of items for a comprehensive FA kit from n_aditya.Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post@All: Btw, what are the components in the First Aid Kit provided by the company?
I'm riding to Bangalore tomorrow&just wanted to ensure everything is perfect (not that I wanna use it).
The general stuff like band-aid, gauze, cotton, antiseptic cream etc should find place in the bike's underseat, but the other items (like savlon, cotton roll, gloves etc) will find place in the comprehensive kit which will be used for rides outside the city.
Can't wait to get my hands on all the essential medical supplies for the kit.
My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240
The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.
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Hi guys, remember a couple of week ago I post a query here that my bike misses while riding below 3k rpm even with brand new spark plug & adapter? Now my problem is solved, main culprit was ignition coil. Svc guy replaced it today (Rs.1210).2005 HH Karizma [SOLD]
2008 Yamaha R15 V1.0 [SOLD]
2018 Bajaj Dominar 400 ABS Matte Black [Current]
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Yamaha R15 until 1000 kms!
I own a Yamaha R15, Its just now that it crossed 1000 kms.
First service was done when It reached 300kms as I didn't ride it much.
After the first service, I took it a couple of times above 8k Rpm, (during 400-500 kms) And now I read that RPM shouldn't take it above 5k before 1000 kms. Now notice a change in sound of the engine( not sure )
I really don't know whether everything is alright!
So whats next?
What's the best I can do from this situation?
Second service will be on next month. shall I wait for that?
Please help guys!!
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Welcome to xBhp! You should post an introduction thread here: Who Are You? - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking CommunityOriginally posted by rageshctech View PostI own a Yamaha R15, Its just now that it crossed 1000 kms.
First service was done when It reached 300kms as I didn't ride it much.
After the first service, I took it a couple of times above 8k Rpm, (during 400-500 kms) And now I read that RPM shouldn't take it above 5k before 1000 kms. Now notice a change in sound of the engine( not sure )
I really don't know whether everything is alright!
So whats next?
What's the best I can do from this situation?
Second service will be on next month. shall I wait for that?
Please help guys!!
Since you are saying you didn't ride the bike above 8k more than on a couple of occasions, I think things should be fine/ not too bad.
People here have different opinions on how to run a bike in, but thats everyone's personal opinion.
The difference in the engine sound could also be a figment of your imagination, after you realised that you should have kept the bike limited to lower revs.
Getting the bike serviced now is not going to help, unless you missed out on an oil change & oil-filter change in the 1st service that you have already got done. These 2 things are essential, & in case you got the bike serviced at a Yamaha SVC, they would have definitely done these.
Anyways, do let us know.
My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240
The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.
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Woah! Thanks for that quick reply! Yea that was a couple of occasions that i took it above 8k, but the average rpm if calculated will be between 6 & 7
Sound difference is not my imagination, I think.. but I'm not sure whether its from the engine.. Its a rattling noise along with the normal engine sound, I seriously doubt the chain.
First service was done in an authorized Yamaha SVC but as I mentioned, first one was too early in terms of kms (300), I took a long ride of another 300 kms (ofcourse with rests in between) after that, so I'm worried that if I'm mishandling it!
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Is it a loose mables kind of sound you hear when the bike is idling? If yes, the tappets have gone loose, & you will need to get them tightened at the SVC at the earliest.Originally posted by rageshctech View PostWoah! Thanks for that quick reply! Yea that was a couple of occasions that i took it above 8k, but the average rpm if calculated will be between 6 & 7
Sound difference is not my imagination, I think.. but I'm not sure whether its from the engine.. Its a rattling noise along with the normal engine sound, I seriously doubt the chain.
First service was done in an authorized Yamaha SVC but as I mentioned, first one was too early in terms of kms (300), I took a long ride of another 300 kms (ofcourse with rests in between) after that, so I'm worried that if I'm mishandling it!
Its recommended to open the bike up (begin redlining it) post a minimum of 1500Kms on the odo.
My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240
The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.
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I don't think so. The sound is prominent when I ride it and is less while idling. Thats the reason why I doubt the chain. Also, the sound is not audible when I put the helmet on!
There was heavy rains for a couple of months, I haven't applied any kind of lubrication to it yet. Is that all necessary at this stage or should I leave that job to SVC guys?
Thanks!
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Are you saying we just have to LUBE our chain for a smoother gear shifting pattern? Woah, what a conclusion because of just one experience! I don't see how lubing the chain and the gears have any relation? The max the chain lubrication can reach is the DRIVEN SPROcket and the DRIVER Sprocket. Nothing else gets lubed. The gears are inside the engine compartment, in th GEARBOX.Originally posted by tibby View PostHence, those of you facing hard gear-shifts, an insufficiently lubed chain could be the culprit.
What I could think of is, you havn't put in the right amount of engine oil, which is resulting in UNEVEN distribution of the oil inside the gearbox. This causes the shifts to be smooth sometimes and hard the other times...D'oh!
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If your shifting is hard put some WD-40 on the gear shifter at the footpeg, that'll ease out the hard shifts to some extent. My shifter gets hard sometimes and usually a bit of WD-40 fixes the issue, then it's back to business again
I use the Yamaha SL grade 20w40 oil. SS oils should make the gear shifting a bit more easier.
Last edited by KwokFist; 10-29-2010, 11:58 PM.--------------------------------
Own:
2009 Yamaha YZF-R15
2009 Ford Fiesta 1.6S
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Fuel Your Motoring Passion!
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Hi guys, I am planning to pick up a low mileage, 2008 end model R15.
I remember reading on this thread about some parts being defective and replaced FOC. Is it safe for me to buy this bike, as with me being the 2nd owner, I will not be able to get the parts replaced under warranty?
Please do clarify my doubt.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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Finally
Tomo i'm planning to buy KN filter at chennai, RC 1060 as suggested. But can some one tel me what will be the price tag approx? and any good shop to get in chennai. I thought of going to GP road and get one.
your RIDE, your PRIDE .@lways RIDE SAFE
HH 100 - 1987 to 2003(Sold)
Pulser 150 DTSi - 2003 to 2005 (Sold)
R15 - 2008(Running in style)
Dio - 2011(running)
Duke 200 - 2012(yet to explore)
Ninja 300 - 2013(Exitement redefined)
AR 9993 ! AW 9993 ! BH 9993 ! BQ 9993 ! BT 9993 ! BY 9993 ! CA 9993 ! CG 9993
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