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  • Originally posted by tibby View Post
    Guys, a couple of questions:
    1. When my bike gets heated up & the radiator fan kicks in, if i switch off the bike (ignition switch) & turn the ignition switch to ON position again immediately, the radiator fan does not kick in again. Is this normal with your bikes?
    do you mean the fan switched off when you switched the ignition off? or did it go off when you restarted the ignition switch??
    if the former then the svc is where you should be right now !! else if the latter then,
    afaik on my bike it stays on..
    i was revving the bike on idle specially to check whether the fan was working or not..after varying the throttle to 3k,4k,5k at times, in 3-4 minutes, the fan kicked in.. i switched the ignition off( kill switch).. it was still on, could feel the massive heat billowing out..
    i brought it in ignition mode again, as far as i remember it was still on when i started the bike to go for a round..or was it?
    im not so sure though..don't exactly remember, actually i didn't pay much attention to that part of it ..
    will confirm it when back to nagpur..in delhi right now..

    i still think it was on when i switched it back to ignition..(
    65% it was on..)

    try re-installing the rvms..may help..

    ot: arranging any g2g guys???
    Last edited by veyron999; 10-27-2010, 10:34 PM.
    after monday and tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!!

    Comment


    • Originally posted by sheelpriye
      When did you get the R15?
      last year, took it from a friend as that time I was having a P220 but that went stolen.. i thought of buying it but after using it for 3/4 months, I decided to go for some thing else.. . That bike is still here in neighborhood.. only used for city ridding..

      apart from that, there are quite a few in the block in our adda group
      Last edited by Hunky; 10-27-2010, 10:45 PM.
      Catch me @ Orkut..
      Maintance @ NexGenBikes.com

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Hunky View Post
        @ZeNashB

        Just a personal opinion.. while in city limits and shorter but power rides in city and local freeways, YamaLube feels much better (smoother) than Motul 5100T

        However when doing longs, suppose 400kms at a stretch, here, somehow Motul 5100T feels smoother than YamaLube SS

        Most of time, bike stay in city so i prefer in YamaLube..

        Just shared my personal exp.. thanks..
        I put the Fully Synthetic 300V range of 15W50 grade oil by Motul today. Before I put it, the bike felt very good, since it was just out of a service, but as soon as the FS went in, the experience has improved to a whole new level. The bike now revs much more freely and it feels like it wants to rev higher and higher. Earlier, after crossing 9k RPM, engine showed signs of mild strain, but now, right upto the redline, the needle moves like hot knife on butter!

        If I dont watch the RPM band, I cannot even make out its revving to the redline! Earlier, the engine strain would give me a hint, but not anymore Real happy with the oil. Handle bar vibrations have completely gone and the ''klunk'' sound from the gearbox when you down-shift to first or second gear is also gone. All gear shifts are now 100% silent and smooth. A slight tap is enough to run through each gear

        As of now, I've just run around 50 kilometers on the new oil and it behaves well. Lets see how it responds to my riding style
        D'oh!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by ZeNashB View Post
          I put the Fully Synthetic 300V range of 15W50 grade oil by Motul today. Before I put it, the bike felt very good, since it was just out of a service, but as soon as the FS went in, the experience has improved to a whole new level. The bike now revs much more freely and it feels like it wants to rev higher and higher. Earlier, after crossing 9k RPM, engine showed signs of mild strain, but now, right upto the redline, the needle moves like hot knife on butter!

          If I dont watch the RPM band, I cannot even make out its revving to the redline! Earlier, the engine strain would give me a hint, but not anymore Real happy with the oil. Handle bar vibrations have completely gone and the ''klunk'' sound from the gearbox when you down-shift to first or second gear is also gone. All gear shifts are now 100% silent and smooth. A slight tap is enough to run through each gear

          As of now, I've just run around 50 kilometers on the new oil and it behaves well. Lets see how it responds to my riding style
          Have you changed oil filter? how much motul 300v fully synthetic cost? and from where you bought it? I mean from SVC or other shop?
          We xbhpians pledge to wear helmet while riding

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ZeNashB View Post
            Motul 15W50 and the Motul 10W40

            Now, I want your opinion on the two grades.

            What would be better? For my type of riding. I rev hard and live near the redline. The place I live has temperatures between 25 and 34 degrees. Almost sea level.
            I've used both grades of oil on my bike, and I personally prefer the 10w40. That's because, I could feel some heaviness in the oil in 15w50. Especially when I redline(I ride like you). Could easily make out the inertia that the oil is adding to the engine. Engine is smooth, but the inertia increased.

            Originally posted by tibby View Post
            Guys, a couple of questions:
            1. When my bike gets heated up & the radiator fan kicks in, if i switch off the bike (ignition switch) & turn the ignition switch to ON position again immediately, the radiator fan does not kick in again. Is this normal with your bikes?
            It's like this: The radiator fan kicks in somewhere around 98 degrees or something. Once it is kicked in, it has to stay on until he engine temperature comes down to somewhere around 95 degrees. So, by the time you switch off your engine, if the temperature is less than 98 degrees and more than 95 degrees, the fan will be on when turning off, but wont kick in again when turned on. So, unless the engine is extremely hot, it wont kick in when you turn the engine on again. This is same for all radiator technologies(only the temperature requirements vary).

            Originally posted by sheelpriye
            I am using a Yamalube SS and my bike revs like crazy post 7000rpm and regularly hits the limiter. It shows no sign of strain unless I am puttering in 6th gear at 50kmph.
            Have you tried the Petronas Sprinta 5000 FS? It's a 10w40, and is much much better than the YamaLube SS, and comes at almost the same price. As I said above, the difference in inertia is clearly noticeable. The only problem I had with petronas was the temperature tolerance. As the engine gets hotter, the oil looses its quality quicker than Motul. I'm on the look out for 10w40 FS oil with good temperature tolerance for my next oil change, currently using Motul 15w50 SS.
            Sunny.

            Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
            Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)


            A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!

            Comment


            • @Digislayer

              Thanks for that info. I'm already on 15W50 FS Motul now, so not much I can do for the atleast the next 5k kilometres, but after that, I'm definitely gonna try the 10W40 FS

              I'm just venturing into the ''know your oil'' sector and am really excited lol, feels like having a baby
              D'oh!

              Comment


              • Originally posted by sheelpriye

                I am using a Yamalube SS and my bike revs like crazy post 7000rpm and regularly hits the limiter. It shows no sign of strain unless I am puttering in 6th gear at 50kmph.
                Thats what I used to think to buddy. Yamalube is nothing compared to Motul! I was real happy with Yama but now, Motul is a whole new world of awesomeness
                D'oh!

                Comment


                • Guys my bike has done 17600 kms and looks like its time for some TLC. I have a couple of noob doubts
                  1. I noticed a small bulge on the front tyre next to the rim. I havent removed the front tyre so far. Any clue what this could be ? Will post pictures in the evening
                  2. If I put the bike on the centre stand and rotate the rear tyre while checking the chain for slack I notice that the chain has differing levels of slack at different points. Does this mean that I need to change the sprockets ? Or sprockets and chain ? Or is there a remedy ? Prices for the sprockets ?
                  3. The front end feels, for want of a better word, flighty. Will be getting the cone set checked and greased. Is there any other thing I should look out for ?
                  http://indianfightfan.blogspot.in/

                  http://neilsrandomramblings.blogspot.com/

                  http://neilsmotomusings.blogspot.com/

                  Comment


                  • guys I have been experiencing a khit khit type sound from the front of the bike ( almost near the front sprocket ) when I change gear and rip or even normal acceleration of the bike . I get the sound every time i accelerate after clutch/de-clutch the bike. Is there some problem with the chain or sprocket?
                    ps: Yamaha service sucks! i have taken the bike twice but they are not able to solve the problem.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by digislayer View Post
                      I've used both grades of oil on my bike, and I personally prefer the 10w40. That's because, I could feel some heaviness in the oil in 15w50. Especially when I redline(I ride like you). Could easily make out the inertia that the oil is adding to the engine. Engine is smooth, but the inertia increased.
                      Have you tried the Petronas Sprinta 5000 FS? It's a 10w40, and is much much better than the YamaLube SS, and comes at almost the same price. As I said above, the difference in inertia is clearly noticeable. The only problem I had with petronas was the temperature tolerance. As the engine gets hotter, the oil looses its quality quicker than Motul. I'm on the look out for 10w40 FS oil with good temperature tolerance for my next oil change, currently using Motul 15w50 SS.
                      So how often do you top up the oil in case of using Petronas full synth?
                      Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by amulu10 View Post
                        guys I have been experiencing a khit khit type sound from the front of the bike ( almost near the front sprocket ) when I change gear and rip or even normal acceleration of the bike . I get the sound every time i accelerate after clutch/de-clutch the bike. Is there some problem with the chain or sprocket?
                        ps: Yamaha service sucks! i have taken the bike twice but they are not able to solve the problem.
                        I was facing the same issue too. On close inspection I found that one of my Engine mounting bolts was missing (The one near the front sprocket area, open the sprocket cover to see it). Got a new bolt fixed onto it and the problem was solved.
                        Else it might be a case bad lubrication of front sprocket.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by neil.jericho
                          3. The front end feels, for want of a better word, flighty. Will be getting the cone set checked and greased. Is there any other thing I should look out for ?
                          As per manual at-least once a 10k mark, R15 is suppose to need a steering bearing greasing .. Also Indian roads, 18k almost.. may be is time for Fork Oil change..

                          @sheelpriye..

                          Just a personal observation

                          Yamaha ASS given lubrication (made by Motul i guess) is just good enough for everyday rides and even week end tours and trips.. Looking for more would be for extreme needs like for guys who are into heavy duty riding and extreme long and hard rides ????
                          Catch me @ Orkut..
                          Maintance @ NexGenBikes.com

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Hunky View Post
                            As per manual at-least once a 10k mark, R15 is suppose to need a steering bearing greasing .. Also Indian roads, 18k almost.. may be is time for Fork Oil change..
                            They have mentioned race bearing greasing, swing arm greasing&stem greasing once in every 12K kms.
                            Its not easy to get the seal off the wheel bearing, so that has never been greased in my case yet. No problems, touchwood.
                            Didn't get the time to open up the coneset&grease it-maybe planned for next service or the coneset would have conked off by then.
                            As for fork oil, from my experience with my older bikes it can last really long so I haven't got it opened/replaced yet. Wanna stick to the factory settings for the front suspension until a problem crops up.
                            But yes, I did get the swingarm greased at my last service at 18.5K kms./2+ years&it has made a lot of difference.
                            Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                            Comment


                            • They have mentioned race bearing greasing, swing arm greasing&stem greasing once in every 12K kms.
                              In our place, we do it in half of that said time.. Steering play feels lot smoother so as over all ride quality..

                              Bought our self a kg of Motul Grease and do it from a Local garage (good enough for trusting the fittings) for all bearing greasing, they charge around Rs. 200 for the job..

                              Originally posted by Sarvajit
                              Its not easy to get the seal off the wheel bearing
                              Do they need any special tool for it as in our case local mech takes it off quite easily and applies the grease and puts it back too (checked it my self fitting seems good and tight)

                              Catch me @ Orkut..
                              Maintance @ NexGenBikes.com

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by chiku181 View Post
                                I was facing the same issue too. On close inspection I found that one of my Engine mounting bolts was missing (The one near the front sprocket area, open the sprocket cover to see it). Got a new bolt fixed onto it and the problem was solved.
                                Else it might be a case bad lubrication of front sprocket.
                                BINGO ! exactly same problem , the engine mounting bolt had come off near the front sprocket area !
                                Man i wish i had seen this post earlier! I spent 30 mins in a brand new Yamaha SVC where the mechanic painstakingly removed each part after the other to find the problem . But kudos to him , he fixed the problem after all!

                                Comment

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