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Yamaha YZF-R15
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did you disassembled the whole linkage assembly including the needle bearings and re greased them? there is no point in greasing the outside because the grease wont get to the needle bearings. it is more like a manufacturing defect. most likely a faulty seal which lets dirt in to the bearings.Originally posted by veyron999 View Post
that is nothing but mechanical noise. my guess would be a bog down. there is a simple idea. increase the idle rpm and it'll go away.Originally posted by veyron999 View Post2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
1990 Yamaha RX110
2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
2018 TVS Apache RR 310
2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi
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@veyron999 : Respected Sir, If you're riding behind 3 huge trucks in the city left with no space for overtaking then you can't help but ride slow isn't it otherwise I always prefer riding as if cops are chasing me.....lol2005 HH Karizma [SOLD]
2008 Yamaha R15 V1.0 [SOLD]
2018 Bajaj Dominar 400 ABS Matte Black [Current]
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Standing. Not a good idea to shift the bike into neutral when on run.Originally posted by dis-is-sid View Postthis should be done during a run or when the bike is standing still ??Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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well, did i anywhere ask you reasons for riding slow?Originally posted by Greymatter View Post@veyron999 : Respected Sir, If you're riding behind 3 huge trucks in the city left with no space for overtaking then you can't help but ride slow isn't it otherwise I always prefer riding as if cops are chasing me.....lol
if you read my post, i've replied to your question in the very first line, -"NO", i've not heard any sound like that..
doesn't that mean i ride slow at times just to notice the behaviour of my bike?
after monday and tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!!
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a manufacturing defect??Originally posted by FATAL1TY - X View Postdid you disassembled the whole linkage assembly including the needle bearings and re greased them? there is no point in greasing the outside because the grease wont get to the needle bearings. it is more like a manufacturing defect. most likely a faulty seal which lets dirt in to the bearings.
then as they say, should i get the link replaced??
after monday and tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!!
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well i did try it ... didnt work the first time ... but when i took my bike out of the parking ... Voila!! the neutral started working again lol!Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View PostStanding. Not a good idea to shift the bike into neutral when on run.
sigpic
^^ In love with her ! ^_^
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Too much!! With the price of the chain down, getting a new one is so much more affordable.Originally posted by svjhonda View PostI've done 19.5k kms and the chain's on its last notch on the pullers. I actually didn't maintain this one. Irregular lubing, high speed running on a bone dry chain (riding with SBKs no less!) has resulted in many bent/jammed links...
But don't run the chain too dry. n_aditya was telling me about a moving bike whose chain snapped due to extremely dry chain (& the resultant friction).
My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240
The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.
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Originally posted by veyron999 View Posta manufacturing defect??
then as they say, should i get the link replaced??
replacing is a good option. but i think that yamaha is not really worried about that right now. if they replace it under warranty then get it replaced. but i think you'll find the same problem on the replacement piece also.Originally posted by RhythmRana99 View Postif they are replacing links and mono shocks for free under warranty then what's the problem?? get them replaced.
2002 Herculese Top Gear 6 speed
2014 Btwin Rock Rider 8.1
1990 Yamaha RX110
2010 Yamaha YZF-R15
2015 KTM RC390 (Sold)
2018 TVS Apache RR 310
2007 Suzuki Alto Lxi
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MRF ZAPPER VYDE 120/80-17 if you want a bigger tire without any mods on the swingarm.Originally posted by neil.jericho View PostAm on the hunt for a new front tyre. A couple of MRF dealers said they have no stock. The Sai Iyengars only have the Continental in the same specifications. Anybody have a clue where I can get them from ? And how much I will have to pay ?
The stock tires are available at the SVCs...D'oh!
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Yes, you are rightOriginally posted by digislayer View PostYou've just chosen different words
Adulteration is a simpler word that I used, to make people understand it's nothing like "performance additives". Yes, the ultimate goal of increasing the octane rating is to overcome the problem of pinging/knocking. Knocking happens due to detonation within the combustion chamber, which in other words is the process that I've explained in my previous post("auto-ignition" even before the spark is fired, due to engine's compression..like you've said). And it's not about energy content, it's about "retarding" the ignition. Or more like, increasing the burning point temperature by adding impurities(again, simple word. Precise word would be some chemical name), so that petrol looses its natural low ignition point. Any engine needs controlled combustion, or detonation might occur..whether it's a diesel engine or petrol engine. If gone wild, this detonation can even damage the engine components permanently or fracture the piston. So, as the compression ratio is increased, a fuel with higher ignition point temperature is required.
Since the activation energy required for combustion is now higher(in case of high octane fuels), the spark alone may not be able to burn/vaporize the fuel completely in some cases(assuming the ignition system isn't designed for a fuel of this high octane rating), leaving a little unburnt fuel, which is hotter than combusted by-products. Over time, continuous formation of this hot fuel or accumulation there of will actually increase temperature levels.
If the engine isn't designed to ignite the higher octane fuels due to their higher activation energies, then it will obviously lead to overheating due to unburnt fuel accumulation
But, I think the R15 can handle upto 92 Octane without ''coughing''
Compression ratio of 10.4:1 is good.
Yay!
D'oh!
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More likely to be contaminated oil/ degrading oil (every time that the oil heats up and cools it absorbs some amount of moisture). Have you ever done a complete oil change of the system?Originally posted by sheelpriyeHow many of you guys have suffered front-brake fade? A horrible one. My braking distances were up by 6-7ft while braking from ~100kmph.
The brakes are back to normal now. Can less brake-oil be a culprit? (there was loss of oil while changing the brake-pads a couple of days ago, shall be replenished on saturday, though there is minimum oil)
This brake-fade happened in just 2-3kms of riding. (Braking REAL hard)Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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my baby
thank you x-bhp for validating my account.This is my first post so please excuse me for few mistakes.I want to share my ownership experience about my baby yamaha r 15. I got my pride possesion on 14 july 2009 she has clocked 17344 kms till today. I have done some modifications like race tuned magnaflow performance exhaust,bi-xenon projector headlamps,led tail lamp,k&n filter n few more will be added soon. will be attaching few pics of my baby soon. Please let me know how you members feel. Rest story will be followed soon.
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Guys I'm facing a bit of a problem with my gear shifts. Earlier it was silky smooth but suddenly it has become super hard. If the engine is running then shifting gears requires a lot of effort (both while in motion and while at rest) and also finding neutral is a pain in the a$$. It's like you have to kick the gear lever to shift down. And once I switch off the engine every thing becomes normal again. Can easily find neutral n shift gears without a sweat.
Changed my engine oil to motul 300v 500 kms ago and also I've cleaned n lubed the chain to check if the problem solves but to no avail. Checked the looseness of chain and it's normal. What might be the problem??
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