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**Sarvajit** · 10-28-2010, 02:58 PM

Originally posted by Hunky View Post

In our place, we do it in half of that said time.. Steering play feels lot smoother

so as over all ride quality..

Bought our self a kg of Motul Grease and do it from a Local garage (good enough for trusting the fittings) for all bearing greasing, they charge around Rs. 200 for the job..

Do they need any special tool for it as in our case local mech takes it off quite easily and applies the grease

and puts it back too (checked it my self fitting seems good and tight)

Yes, the factory fitting is so tight that the mechs.are scared to hammer it&induce play, in the effort of removing the seal!
Use Castrol mp3 grease next time-it lasts longer.

**Hunky** · 10-28-2010, 03:09 PM

Use Castrol mp3 grease next time-it lasts longer.

Ok.. how about Motul ?? we use Motul as Yamaha them self I guess use Motul !!!

**Sarvajit** · 10-28-2010, 03:10 PM

Originally posted by Hunky View Post

Ok.. how about Motul ?? we use Motul as Yamaha them self I guess use Motul !!!

Any mp3 grease will do...

**Hunky** · 10-28-2010, 03:15 PM

About lasting by the way..

This is my personal exp Castrol > Motul > Reliance > (Surprisingly) HH given (guess servo or something)

HH given default grease is extremely costly by the way, Rs. 500 for 500mg

, they used to apply it in ZMA / ZMR (when we take it for service) racer (steering / handlebar bearing)..

Once I took it and applied it in P220 bearings (all / wheel / racer n such) and there it lasted the most compare to those which i wrote (used P220 for testing as in bajaj grease lasts really less compare to any other)

**tibby** · 10-28-2010, 06:19 PM

Originally posted by JitenMistry View Post

1) It will not start again if you turn off ignition. This things happen with me. so my view is it is normal.
2) Windshield hook may be broken (see the attached picture)

Normal, okay!

No, the hook is well intact. I guess removing & re-fitting the mirrors needs to be tried.

Originally posted by veyron999 View Post

do you mean the fan switched off when you switched the ignition off? or did it go off when you restarted the ignition switch??
if the former then the svc is where you should be right now

!! else if the latter then,
afaik on my bike it stays on..
i was revving the bike on idle specially to check whether the fan was working or not..after varying the throttle to 3k,4k,5k at times, in 3-4 minutes, the fan kicked in.. i switched the ignition off( kill switch).. it was still on, could feel the massive heat billowing out..
i brought it in ignition mode again, as far as i remember it was still on when i started the bike to go for a round..or was it?
im not so sure though..don't exactly remember, actually i didn't pay much attention to that part of it

..
will confirm it when back to nagpur..in delhi right now..

i still think it was on when i switched it back to ignition..(
65% it was on..)

The fan kicked in => I switched the key to OFF => I turned the key to IGNITION ON, but fan did not kick in again
The highlighted text applies in my case too. I'm talking about the case I just mentioned above. If you can have a look at that & revert, it will be helpful.

Originally posted by veyron999 View Post

try re-installing the rvms..may help..

Thanks! I will just do that tonight.

Originally posted by sheelpriye

When your radiator fan kicks in, keep riding, (if you are riding).

If you are not riding and are about to stop and the radiator fan is on, hit the engine-kill switch, but don't switch the electrical system off (with the key).
In about 2-3 mins, the fan will switch off and you can switch off the Motorcycle, with the key.

In brief, don't switch off the Motorcycle if the radiator fan is on, yes switching off the Motorcycle shall start cooling the engine, but then it is recommended in Cars to run the engine till the fan is on and I stick to the same.
You shouldn't start the Motorcycle too if the radiator-fan is on(unless in dire-straits)

Arre bhai!! Aapne toh radiator ke DOs & DON'Ts de daale (Bro! You gave away all the DOs & DON'Ts for radiator usage).

& you didn't give me any solutions to the problems I listed out

Originally posted by digislayer View Post

It's like this: The radiator fan kicks in somewhere around 98 degrees or something. Once it is kicked in, it has to stay on until he engine temperature comes down to somewhere around 95 degrees. So, by the time you switch off your engine, if the temperature is less than 98 degrees and more than 95 degrees, the fan will be on when turning off, but wont kick in again when turned on. So, unless the engine is extremely hot, it wont kick in when you turn the engine on again. This is same for all radiator technologies(only the temperature requirements vary).

ok, makes a lot of sense.
The scenario I was talking about is a bit different. I was wondering whether the fan should kick in (again) once the key is turned to ON position (after switching the engine & the key to OFF for a few seconds), assuming the engine temperature is say 100 deg even after the key is turned ON again.
Any inputs on this?

**KwokFist** · 10-28-2010, 06:27 PM

Originally posted by neil.jericho View Post

Guys my bike has done 17600 kms and looks like its time for some TLC. I have a couple of noob doubts
1. I noticed a small bulge on the front tyre next to the rim. I havent removed the front tyre so far. Any clue what this could be ? Will post pictures in the evening
2. If I put the bike on the centre stand and rotate the rear tyre while checking the chain for slack I notice that the chain has differing levels of slack at different points. Does this mean that I need to change the sprockets ? Or sprockets and chain ? Or is there a remedy ? Prices for the sprockets ?
3. The front end feels, for want of a better word, flighty. Will be getting the cone set checked and greased. Is there any other thing I should look out for ?

1. Get it checked, replace tyre asap. It could've been due to an impact with a pothole. Bulge/Bubble could prove to be dangerous if left unattended and could result in a tyre burst.

2. Clean the chain thoroughly and lube it it might loosen up the jammed links if any.

No need for replacement unless your sprockets are worn. Which is unlikely at your mileage unless you ride aggressively. Chain-Sprocket is 1436 MRP. Chain is 855 MRP. Front sprocket is more expensive than the rear AFAIK.

Not too expensive with the new pricing.

3. Get the cone set checked and greased if you hadn't got it done at 15K kms. Check the front alloy for any bends, since you mentioned you have a bulge in the front tyre.

**veyron999** · 10-28-2010, 07:20 PM

Originally posted by tibby View Post

Normal, okay!

No, the hook is well intact. I guess removing & re-fitting the mirrors needs to be tried.

The fan kicked in => I switched the key to OFF => I turned the key to IGNITION ON, but fan did not kick in again
The highlighted text applies in my case too. I'm talking about the case I just mentioned above. If you can have a look at that & revert, it will be helpful.

Thanks! I will just do that tonight.

Arre bhai!! Aapne toh radiator ke DOs & DON'Ts de daale (Bro! You gave away all the DOs & DON'Ts for radiator usage).

& you didn't give me any solutions to the problems I listed out

ok, makes a lot of sense.
The scenario I was talking about is a bit different. I was wondering whether the fan should kick in (again) once the key is turned to ON position (after switching the engine & the key to OFF for a few seconds), assuming the engine temperature is say 100 deg even after the key is turned ON again.
Any inputs on this?

i don't think it turns on again..
as somebody said earlier that most of the vehicles have cooling systems working in a similar manner..

although i have not tried it on the R15, but it doesn't start again in my car - WagonR.. so i guess it is programmed that way..

**digislayer** · 10-28-2010, 09:09 PM

Originally posted by ZeNashB View Post

@Digislayer
I'm just venturing into the ''know your oil'' sector and am really excited

lol, feels like having a baby

DAMN!

Originally posted by sheelpriye

No, I haven't tried Petronas, though Dr. Arnob uses in his Karizma and swears by it, need I mention more?
Petronas isn't available in my part nor is Motul, though I shall be getting Motul today.

Castrol Power 1 Racing is a FS with 10w40 ratings.

Castrol Malaysia - Castrol Power1 Racing 4T

And there really isn't much to look into/for oils, Santa is using Yamalube Mineral oil, has clocked 40,000kms+ and has absolutely no problems to report for.

Any oil won't better any engine's performance, its more mental than actual. Agree, that the engine might become smoother, gear-box might have a positive actuation, but thats it.

The problem in my case is, endurance of the oil. Agreed mineral oil is okay too, but it wont last much under my riding conditions. A petronas FS lasts like 1.5k kms for me, and you can now estimate how long the mineral oil holds up with its viscosity.

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

So how often do you top up the oil in case of using Petronas full synth?

In my case, the viscosity is lost before the level drops!

I redline my bike everyday, hit 108 kmph everyday in 4th gear(and then shift to 5th ofcourse!) and even go with power shifting if my heart asks. So, I change oil within 1.5k KMs even if it's a FS. And by the time it's drained, it's as good as water, trust me.

Originally posted by tibby View Post

ok, makes a lot of sense.
The scenario I was talking about is a bit different. I was wondering whether the fan should kick in (again) once the key is turned to ON position (after switching the engine & the key to OFF for a few seconds), assuming the engine temperature is say 100 deg even after the key is turned ON again.
Any inputs on this?

Like I said, it'll kick in, if the engine temperature is still equal to or more than 98 degrees. But, by that time, it's very rare that the temperature doesn't drop below 95 degrees. The moment the fan kicks in itself the temperature is instantly and constantly lowered and maintained. You'll know this if you connect an FID to the bike(yes, it shows temperature readings). So, by the time you turn it to ignition again, the temperature is below the required level for the fan atleast 95-99% of the times, atleast in the case of R15, it being a single cylindered 150cc bike.

**ZeNashB** · 10-29-2010, 01:16 AM

Mineral oils don't hold their viscosity well over various temperature and RPM ranges, thats what Wikipedia says

Anyway, I don't think it'll suit my riding style. FS is for me. Can't tolerate getting out of the power band and keep down shifting to stay in :P

**KwokFist** · 10-29-2010, 03:18 AM

Originally posted by sheelpriye

Most of the riders who frequent this thread and own the R15, ride it like they stole it, I do. So, its nothing like your riding style. Everyone shifts post 9K and hits limiter, you do something special?

+1 Well said Sheel

9K is where the fun is. At 10K it goes up a notch :P lol..

**digislayer** · 10-29-2010, 07:58 AM

Originally posted by sheelpriye

I don't think Santoosh is making the R15's days any easier by the way he rides.

And he has clocked 40,000kms+ on it. With mineral oil. Perhaps the drain out duration is 2,000kms. I shall let him speak once he is over here.

Yes, we know how Santa rides..but mineral oil doesn't last me so long. Probably, it's my riding style that's different from his, perhaps more aggressive.

Originally posted by sheelpriye

You can't keep the bike in its red-line zone until and unless you are hitting a track or (in case of piddly R15) are flying on the GQ.

Most of the riders who frequent this thread and own the R15, ride it like they stole it, I do. So, its nothing like your riding style. Everyone shifts post 9K and hits limiter, you do something special?

Why cant we keep it in the redline outside the track if we have sufficient road? I do it everyday, and I shift between 10k and 10.5k . It's easier to power-shift at this range for me. 95% of my bike's odo reading consists of my trips to college only. I hardly use it for slow city commuting. And when I'm on my college route, I shift only at the above said rpm everytime, for every gear, no matter what. If i'm below 10k rpm, I dont upshift, and I dont let it get below 7k rpm. And this goes on for 15kms at a stretch, twice a day. My college route is pretty fun actually, free from traffic, not a city road, and has 3 amazing corners. I practice cornerin at 90kph and hit top speeds of 125kph regularly.

**samarr** · 10-29-2010, 12:03 PM

For all firefox lovers. This is something u can live with ur r15 even u r on ur desktop/laptop. Wear the r15 persona.

Personas for Firefox | Yamaha YZF R15
Follow the above link and click on "wear this persona"

@Mods - If its OT, plz del it.

**Sarvajit** · 10-29-2010, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by digislayer View Post

The problem in my case is, endurance of the oil. Agreed mineral oil is okay too, but it wont last much under my riding conditions. A petronas FS lasts like 1.5k kms for me, and you can now estimate how long the mineral oil holds up with its viscosity.

In my case, the viscosity is lost before the level drops!

I redline my bike everyday, hit 108 kmph everyday in 4th gear(and then shift to 5th ofcourse!) and even go with power shifting if my heart asks. So, I change oil within 1.5k KMs even if it's a FS. And by the time it's drained, it's as good as water, trust me.

In that case, you are better off with a 15w50 Motul/Yamalube oil. Its thicker&should last you atleast 2.5K kms. In my case (stopped redlining these days), I used for almost 4.5K kms.&the viscosity was still fine, though the color was black as charcoal!

@All: Btw, what are the components in the First Aid Kit provided by the company?
I'm riding to Bangalore tomorrow&just wanted to ensure everything is perfect (not that I wanna use it).

**Shivanshu** · 10-29-2010, 01:37 PM

Originally posted by sheelpriye

Anyways, I am out of this debate and salute you all who ride like man possessed.(inside city confines with d0gs/cyclists/autos) I am chicken hearted and allow all and sundry to get past me and smile.
And still have spent around 40K on riding gears alone. Wish I had a stronger heart. And I am crying that my pencil is shortest and bluntest amongst all here.

Dont worry Sheel even I ride like you in city traffic and up shift at around 5k rpm so even people pass me... on there bikes. Its alright everybody has its own way of riding and as long as all are riding safe its good. But SAFE also remains a controversial topic here, so I will let it stop here.

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

@All: Btw, what are the components in the First Aid Kit provided by the company?
I'm riding to Bangalore tomorrow&just wanted to ensure everything is perfect (not that I wanna use it).

hey brother, so you riding to Banglore...god good Ride Safe. In the first aid kit which the company provides is a antispetic tube, some bandages and a bit of cotton thats it. Well take care have to catch up with you some time soon.

**Sarvajit** · 10-29-2010, 01:44 PM

Originally posted by Shivanshu View Post

Hey brother, so you riding to Banglore...good good Ride Safe. In the first aid kit which the company provides is an antiseptic tube, some bandages and a bit of cotton thats it. Well take care have to catch up with you some time soon.

Thanks bro! I guess that is enough for the time being.
Yes, we will catch up soon!

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