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Yamaha YZF-R15

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  • Ownership update

    Originally posted by MSD View Post
    Walked in to pick up Sunset Red and rode out with a Racing Blue.. The bike was reading 0.1 Km on the ODO...
    Got the vehicle @ 2pm and Rode 114 kms on day 1
    Expectation (pre - ride) = sore back / paining wrists / No first hand experience (as have never ridden a R15 prior to this one)
    Post ride Experience - NO Back Pain, No Wrist pain... However the palms were paining a bit.. The bike felt good. Had to adjust the stance as was used to sitting on a "horse like" stance...
    OWNERSHIP UPDATE... Days 25, Kms 750

    3 parking lot scratches...

    Miss my RX100 when ever im stuck in a jam and can see empty foot paths
    Love my Hawk when the roads are clear and the skies are blue

    Issues Faced:-
    1> I can see oil leakage from the hand brake lever
    2> There is a vibration at times after i have shut my engine down. I think its the fan that comes on. (But this has happened even after 20 odd km's - How do i check my coolant level)
    Since First service is due in a couple of days i have not yet reported this to the SVC guys

    Suggestion needed:-
    1> Can i wash the bike on my own or do i need to depend on the SVC for the same... Also where can i buy the Chain lube & cleaner in Delhi (i live near Sarita Vihar and am new here...)
    2> Have you tried to press the PASS light with the Low beam on, it gives the best lighting... (Can i get the same setup for HIGH Beam - the lights are not that great, plus they are pointing to the heavens)
    Exhaust Notes - The sweetest sound
    sigpic

    Comment


    • Originally posted by digislayer View Post
      Since you say the problem occurs only in cold engine situations, it cannot be any manifold or air filter problem. Must be something related to spark plug, tappets. Did you get your tappets adjusted recently? Tappets tighter than recommended usually cause such symptoms. Also, do you live in an area that has a lot of moisture or let your bike get wet during nights,etc? In such situations, it could be the water droplets/condensation at the spark plug causing the problem. But, I highly doubt it's something to do with tappets.

      yeah...i had a problem prior to this one..when the bike used to make a "loose marble/vibrating" sound when i used to rev it hard...took the bike to the mechanic, and as far as i can remember, he said, he had adjusted the tappets...besides, one of my car-freak friends also had suggested that a too tight tappet might cause this problem...gotta' check that soon...at this moment, the only way to keep the engine alive during the first 10-15 minutes is to keep the throttle slightly open all the time... will it have any adverse effect on the engine/clutch?

      Comment


      • Originally posted by MSD View Post
        Issues Faced:-
        1> I can see oil leakage from the hand brake lever
        2> There is a vibration at times after i have shut my engine down. I think its the fan that comes on. (But this has happened even after 20 odd km's - How do i check my coolant level)
        Since First service is due in a couple of days i have not yet reported this to the SVC guys
        1. Get the 1st issue resolved at the 1st service. You might need a top-up of the brake fluid if there has been considerable leakage.
        2. If it is the radiator fan kicking in, it will work only if the key is in the 'ignition' position. The coolant level can be checked from the left side of the bike. Its shown in the manual too!

        Originally posted by MSD View Post
        Suggestion needed:-
        1> Can i wash the bike on my own or do i need to depend on the SVC for the same... Also where can i buy the Chain lube & cleaner in Delhi (i live near Sarita Vihar and am new here...)
        2> Have you tried to press the PASS light with the Low beam on, it gives the best lighting... (Can i get the same setup for HIGH Beam - the lights are not that great, plus they are pointing to the heavens)
        1. You can wash the bike on your own, no issues. Just ensure taht water doesn't enter the exhaust (preferably cover the exhaust end with a cover or something).
        2. The pass light is nothing but "High Beam'. Therefore, it wouldn't work if you're already running the bike on high beam. For better understanding, try checking the low, high, & pass beams on standstill.

        My views on the YZF-R15 V2.0: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/198...tml#post699240

        The pleasure is when your rear wheel slides, and you bring it back; and when the front wheel lifts, you take your time bringing it back.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by digislayer View Post
          Why would it run fine once the engine warms up then? I've experienced those symptoms myself when my tappets were tighter than recommended. Clearly, heating is helping his engine run fine, and that means thermal expansion is helping somewhere. How does the ignition coil get better with higher temperatures? And the ignition coil doesn't take so much time to get to operating temperatures...just what I know though.
          Maybe you are right... I have never faced this problem with my R15 so maybe what you are saying may be the case... however my previous bike (i.e. RTR; carb version), I faced a similar problem wherein the Ignition coil was at fault... it so happens sometimes that when the ignition coil initially starts to fail the effects are noticeable only while the engine is cold... by the time the engine is properly warmed up the coil is holding enough charge to provide the proper amount of charge to the spark plug.

          I also mentioned the HT wire because sometime HT wires are prone to such phenomena... the continuity of the wire is broken at certain place just enough that it is not noticeable unless you twist and bend it while checking the continuity...
          Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

          Multum in Parvo - Much in Little

          "Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ashaq54 View Post
            yeah...i had a problem prior to this one..when the bike used to make a "loose marble/vibrating" sound when i used to rev it hard...took the bike to the mechanic, and as far as i can remember, he said, he had adjusted the tappets...besides, one of my car-freak friends also had suggested that a too tight tappet might cause this problem...gotta' check that soon...at this moment, the only way to keep the engine alive during the first 10-15 minutes is to keep the throttle slightly open all the time... will it have any adverse effect on the engine/clutch?
            It's definitely your tappets then. I guess the mechanic over-tightened the tappets without using proper blade/leaf guages. This is really an unacceptable thing if you got the adjustment done at an authorised SS. Get the tappets adjusted back to recommended clearances (0.20mm at exhaust, 0.10mm at inlet) as soon as possible. And DO NOT rev the bike hard or ride much until you get them adjusted again, or else you might end up with burnt valves.


            Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post
            Maybe you are right... I have never faced this problem with my R15 so maybe what you are saying may be the case... however my previous bike (i.e. RTR; carb version), I faced a similar problem wherein the Ignition coil was at fault... it so happens sometimes that when the ignition coil initially starts to fail the effects are noticeable only while the engine is cold... by the time the engine is properly warmed up the coil is holding enough charge to provide the proper amount of charge to the spark plug.

            I also mentioned the HT wire because sometime HT wires are prone to such phenomena... the continuity of the wire is broken at certain place just enough that it is not noticeable unless you twist and bend it while checking the continuity...
            Yes, I get your point.. But it's only that the ignition coil in such scenarios requires lesser time to accumulate such a level of charge. And I agree with you on the HT circuit, that's why asked him to check the spark plug coupling too..but then the "warming up helps" thing made me doubt something else to be the cause.
            Sunny.

            Yamaha Spare Parts price list for ALL Yamaha bikes, Parts Catalogue for YZF R15 and FZ16:
            Yamaha Spare Parts Price List/ Bike Parts Catalogues - 2010 (UPDATED)


            A complete DIY Projector Headlamp Tutorial for YZF R15: DIY Projector Headlights for R15!

            Comment


            • hey guys i am damn confused here
              i am going to get a Free Flow Exhaust for my bike
              i have short listed
              1. endurance technologies exhaust
              2. joel`s exhaust
              sigpic

              ^^ MY FB PAGE
              1198 R Corse /SLR stirling moss edition
              in my dreams

              Comment


              • Originally posted by digislayer View Post
                It's definitely your tappets then. I guess the mechanic over-tightened the tappets without using proper blade/leaf guages. This is really an unacceptable thing if you got the adjustment done at an authorised SS. Get the tappets adjusted back to recommended clearances (0.20mm at exhaust, 0.10mm at inlet) as soon as possible. And DO NOT rev the bike hard or ride much until you get them adjusted again, or else you might end up with burnt valves.
                thanks a lot bro'...will get that checked immidiately and will keep you updated...
                to be precise, getting a bit of confidence back...could not get any hint about the problem at first...thanks again bro'....

                Comment


                • Originally posted by MSD View Post
                  Since First service is due in a couple of days i have not yet reported this to the SVC guys


                  2> Have you tried to press the PASS light with the Low beam on, it gives the best lighting... (Can i get the same setup for HIGH Beam - the lights are not that great, plus they are pointing to the heavens)


                  you can adjust the beam by turning the screws on the back side of head light..switch on the light on turn in either direction and the beam will go either up or down...The screws can be adjusted either by screw driver or a wrench...

                  Comment


                  • My coolant level was at the minimum position after 1800 kms on the second service...Is it ok?? I live in Lucknow and the climate is hot but the coolant intake is a bit more I guess??

                    Comment


                    • ^^ Its normal. just keep a track of the coolant level over the next few days. If there is a drop, then there could possibly be a leak somewhere.


                      My offerings to the gods of speed -

                      - KTM Duke 200
                      - Yamaha RXZ 5 speed


                      Comment


                      • [
                        Originally posted by ashaq54 View Post
                        it all started with a changed idle RPM...on a cold engine, the bike idles at 1500 in the beginning then fluctuates a bit down to 1200 for the next couple of minute. after riding it for 10-12 minutes, it idles at around 1300 mark while still in 1st gear..however, in neutral it goes to around 1500...i have tried to fix it on a warm engine..as long as the engine is warm it rests at 1500..but, the next morning it would go back to the old scenario again...

                        checked the air filter and it looked pretty normal to me..the airbox is clean as well...

                        this stalling occurs mainly during the very first 4-5KMs when the engine is warming up...after that, the frequency of stalling drops significantly.
                        Probably what Digi said. He's the senior tech help.
                        Originally posted by Shivanshu View Post
                        Ashaq - did u get the air manifold intake pipe checked for any leak or loose connection? it is situated under the tank on the head of the engine.
                        Just for info sake, the pipe you're referring to is actually the 'air induction' hose. The R15 uses air induction along with a catalytic converter to clear Bharat stage IV norms. The air induction system uses fresh (and clean) air from the airbox to continue burning residual hydrocarbons in the hot exhaust. That drastically reduces pollution, and then the catalytic converter takes over.
                        Originally posted by HotAntivirus View Post
                        I had this weird noise coming in the bike and I got the chain lubricated from SVC after 5-6 days the noise is back and is much more bad. If I am on faster speed like 60+ there is some screeching noise and its irritating as hell.. At lower speeds the noise comes once like ..... screech ..... screech...... screech ..... screech..... How do I fix this mess up?
                        It is the chain noise. One thing I notice, if you use the Motul chain lube, for the first few days (2-3max) there will be no chain noise. But after that gradually the slick noise comes back. Its nothing, but the chain rollers continuing their rotation after having run through the sprocket. Not a worry.
                        Originally posted by digislayer View Post
                        Why would it run fine once the engine warms up then? I've experienced those symptoms myself when my tappets were tighter than recommended. Clearly, heating is helping his engine run fine, and that means thermal expansion is helping somewhere. How does the ignition coil get better with higher temperatures? And the ignition coil doesn't take so much time to get to operating temperatures...just what I know though.
                        Yeah, sounds good to me. If not tappets, then there's something wrong with one of the sensors or the injector.
                        Originally posted by dsids View Post
                        I recently got a tube fitted in the rear tire. Though, its been just 6 months, but somehow the rear tire gave up with a huge puncture. Heard that putting in tubes runs fine. Was planning to go for a 2k KM run one way but am not sure with this setup. Does anyone have an experience with the tubes?
                        AFAIK, running a tubeless tire with a tube has just one issue, you won't be able to corner. Just don't lean too much, and for relatively straight running, the tube will hold good. But be advised, a puncture will totally deflate the tire in seconds. Also the tubeless tire will wear unevenly.
                        Originally posted by MSD View Post
                        Issues Faced:-
                        1> I can see oil leakage from the hand brake lever
                        2> There is a vibration at times after i have shut my engine down. I think its the fan that comes on. (But this has happened even after 20 odd km's - How do i check my coolant level)
                        Since First service is due in a couple of days i have not yet reported this to the SVC guys

                        Suggestion needed:-
                        1> Can i wash the bike on my own or do i need to depend on the SVC for the same... Also where can i buy the Chain lube & cleaner in Delhi (i live near Sarita Vihar and am new here...)
                        2> Have you tried to press the PASS light with the Low beam on, it gives the best lighting... (Can i get the same setup for HIGH Beam - the lights are not that great, plus they are pointing to the heavens)
                        Issues:
                        1) Oil leakage from the brake master cylinder (the black metal box), or the place where the brake lever presses onto (the piston)? If the master cylinder, then remove the top screws, re-adjust the diaphragm, and put the cover back and torque it properly. If its near the piston, you'll need to replace the seal around the piston.
                        2) Fan comes on whenever the coolant temperature reaches 90 degrees Celsius. So it doesn't matter if it comes on after 2 or 20kms. Maybe the last few kms was slow riding. People confuse, because they think if the bike runs longer and faster, it gets hotter (which is true) but it also cools faster, because the airflow through the radiator is more than enough. But its only when the airflow isn't enough, the fan kicks in to draw air and achieve the required cooling. There's the reservoir on the left side of the bike, behind the black panel with DELTABOX written on it. look under that, while keeping the bike vertical.

                        Suggestion:
                        1) Yes, you can. Bindaas.
                        2) Pressing the pass switch lights up both filaments in the right bulb, and one filament in the left bulb. So better than that would be wiring the headlights so that both lights light up in low beam. Align the beam with the screws Painreloaded mentioned.
                        Originally posted by painreloaded View Post
                        My coolant level was at the minimum position after 1800 kms on the second service...Is it ok?? I live in Lucknow and the climate is hot but the coolant intake is a bit more I guess??
                        Even my coolant level dropped below low at first service. Fearing this bike is thirsty, I bought a bottle, but didn't have to use it for 1.5 years (that too because I replaced my radiator [Yamaha initiative]). No worries. Not unless you see too much of the overheat indicator on the console...
                        You get the point?? :D
                        -----------------------
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                        • rear tyre hugger

                          can i fit hugger on my r15?
                          which hugger will fit on r15?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by neil.jericho View Post
                            Does anyone know how much the stock front tyre of the R15 costs ? What about its availability in Bangalore ? Mine looks like it needs to be replaced in another 1 - 2 k.
                            ^^ Bump. Anyone ?

                            Has anyone tried the Motul Brake Clean spray ? Its available for around 450 bucks and comes in a can similar to the Motul chain clean & chain lube except that its golden in colour. I saw it at AQ, Cochin and was told that it just needs to be sprayed onto the discs and cleaned. Has anyone tried it / used something similar ? Are there any advantages ? I just wipe the discs to clean them.
                            http://indianfightfan.blogspot.in/

                            http://neilsrandomramblings.blogspot.com/

                            http://neilsmotomusings.blogspot.com/

                            Comment


                            • Got a call from yamaha and was put into a conference with the svc here against whom i had lodged a complaint. You wouldnt believe the tone of the guy with which he spoke. He was ok with anything and everything. Seemed like even if i wanted to put vegetable oil in the bike he would be ok with it now Just saw what an email can do. Gave me a service date in 2 days as opposed to the 15 days i was told of earlier.
                              You can only ride better tomorrow if you ride safe today.

                              Comment


                              • @neil - its around 900 bucks iirc.

                                Heard of the motul brake clean, but dont have any feedback on that.


                                My offerings to the gods of speed -

                                - KTM Duke 200
                                - Yamaha RXZ 5 speed


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