Ok, got it! So thats for a new bike. I thought its the normal procedure you follow for every oil change, & the numbers didn't make sense to me coz you were saying you change oil every 1k Kms.

@svj: I totally agree with your comment on the functional aspect of the accessories currently available.

Will check the air filter issue ASAP.

for the RPM issue, the ignition is fully cut-off when the clutch is pulled in since i don't get any throttle response while the clutch is still pulled-in. however, the bike still rolls-on and if i release the clutch the engine starts again, just like a push-start and then i regain the throttle response.

When does the fuel meter come up? When the bike has exactly 1.9 litres of fuel left? Or more than that? And whats the total tank capacity including reserve?

The R15's fuel indicator isn't as reliable as, say of the Karizma.

It even goes up and down based on how much you have opened up the throttle, still would advise to get a tank-up as there is a fuel-pump and sufficient fuel means less chance of injectors clogging up.

Ya thats okay but i need to know if the fuel meter comes on when there is exactly 1.9 litres of fuel left. That way i would be able to calculate the mileage.

Almost,

Do a tank-ful to tank-ful method. I have got FE figs stretching from low 30's to high 50's.

Touring=~40kmpl (tacho hovering around 7K)

Actually I did a slightly deviated method to run-in my bike.
Running-in hard is not the thing here,running the engine free is the technic here.
I am going to discuss my way of run-in which is a slightly modded Motoman's method........and I count my friend Guitarfreak out of this,as he is the only one with a 1lac bike

Why the run-in?
A new engine requires moderate activity in order to get the new parts settled in properly.Every part of the new bike,including the Piston,Conrod,Crankshaft,Primary drive and Final drive,Exhaust ports and valve train are exposed to excessive friction,as they all have newly tempered bodies and are not used to tremendous flexibility that an ideally performing engine should have.High levels of engine activity should not be done in any conditions.It causes the parts not to settle in but to glaze out.

Now here in comes the question,
what is moderate activity and high levels of activity for the engine ??????
Let me ask you all first,what do you mean my moderate acitvity of the engine???
Moderate activity means-running engine below 50kmph for 1000kms???
Answer is NO
Moderate activity means engine speed variation???
Answer is NO
Then what is it ?????
Actually I will make it understand relatively,
Moderate activity in comparison to high level activity means,the engine at any rpms should not be operated constantly,whereas High level activity allows it to be operated constantly.
What I mean to say in simple words is,
After having done about 300kms@45-55Kmph on the new engine,try giving it short blasts lasting for around 20-30 seconds,allowing the bike to catch a speed of around 90-100kmph.Then slowing down,after that go for it again after 15 minutes or so.So the engine is getting to work,all over its spectrum of performance and is thus settling in without glazing out.Moderate activity of engine as such allows this without overheating up the new parts,they are made flexible in sync gradually and precisely.But if someone goes out and tries the so called Hard acceleration and high revving constantly,his engine has started going high levels of activity and would go kaput......or would have a short life for the pistons and the crankcase.
Now this has to be done in a way...........and here I am depicting how I did it.
1.For the first 300 kms,I never revved the bike above 4000rpms.This I had done to make sure the regions of low end torque should settle in well first.
2.After grossing the first 300kms,I went in for high speeds and not hard acceleration.Which means,I never accelerated my bike in 1-2-3-4 th gears.I just used to rev it around 3500 in these gears and shifted up quickly.Once in 5th gear and my revs in 4000rpm region,I gently used to raise the revs till 6500rpm for 20-30 seconds and then lowered back to 4500 rpms for constant riding.Then again I used to repeat this thing 2-3 times at 4-5 minutes interval.After this,I went for the same method but in sixth gear.
This resulted in the engine to discover its total rev range slowly without heating up,rather its allowing heating up and cooling down which means the ideal setting is getting tempered well.
3.After completing almost 200kms by this method,I went for the oil-change.Engine oil change is a must for such type of run-ins.
4.After the change,this time,for the next 200kms,I went in for revving it till top speeds albiet for fewer seconds,say 15secs or so.My constant ride rpms being always around 4300-4500(50kmph-70kmph) at all times.Lower speeds than this will call clutch plates and crankshafts on a new engine to glaze off under stress,resulting in wobbly gear shifts for the rest of the bike's life.
5.After 200kms,I again went in for the engine oil change,this time I switched from moderate level to high level of activity,which means maintaining constant low speeds for 15 minutes or maintaining cruise at top speeds for 10-15 minutes.I did 500kms this way.........My bike grossed around 1400kms by this method,it completes it run-in period.Changed the engine oil again after this.

Now I run my bike normal,It shows no signs of protest while accelerating hard or cruising near top speeds for hours together.It also sounds like a showroom condition bike.I am yet to do,the in gear run-in on my bike,which means,achieving the top speed per gear.By now my bike is 2000kms old.And it feels like built like a tank to last.It registers higher pick-up and top speeds then most of the similarly aged and spec bikes.
I hope this kind of run-in,could also be done for the R15 and it would also bear fruits.Its based on the Motoman's method,but not the Superbike type.Hope it helps

tired of seeing the same old questions about rpms and top speeds during run in period. when will people learn to read the user manual. KEEP THE BIKE IN THE RPM RANGE MENTIONED IN THE MANUAL. this thread is really getting boring .

this is not the old topic we are here talking about the method which is diffrent from owner's manual and has worked for many people here.... please the whole post before posting uselessly.

this is not the same old topic we are talking here about ways which are opposite or diffrent from methods in owner manual for break-in....please read the whole post before posting uselessly..!!

I have the same problem. Does anyone know why this could be?

@above post

vibes are due to the tappets
you need to chack the valve clearance and the tappets
problem solved after that

The hugger was on the bike with add-ons why is this item missing from the list of extra fittings is mystery it looks cool, has anyone checked with Yamaha India regarding this , it is more use full than the other cosmetic parts they sell

Has anyone tried the official Yamaha tank protector? Does it look bad?

why do people want to try useless new methods when the company recommends the proper approach. do people think all the engineers who designed this bike don't know the best way to run in this bike. why couldn't guys wait for the fist 1k to be over and try what ever they want afterwards. the concept of breaking in an engine has been doing the rounds for quite some time and is very controversial as well. all manufacturers across the globe ask their customers to run in their bike instead of breaking it in or try some other useless methods. this is my opinion whether others buy it or not i don't care.
this comment is not targeted at any particular individual. it is just an opinion. that is all.