@Pinaki ,but technically speaking how lack of fuel will cause overheating?just curious to know!!

Got my problem fixed. The part cost 40 bucks and had my second servicing done too. My odometer reading crossed 1500k and for the last fill gave 115 km for 100 bucks (i.e 67km/l)..
regarding the gear shift, they haven't still made it proper though it seemed fine on the first day. As compared to p135 ls, the gear shifting in my bike is a bit harder and this may be the reason. the force i put may not be sufficient every time and the gear slips. anyone finding the same prob???

so which part did they replaced for 40bucks?
Regarding gear shift,they do become harder initially but smoothens after 2nd & 3rd service.my gears had become too hard and had to wear shoes to upshift.but after oil change became smoother.and now after 3rd oil change has become buttersmooth almost like unicorn.

Yes I too get the problem of gear slips....especially between 2nd and 3rd.... my next service is up in dec lets see after that.

Heat up problems!!! Lately I've been driving in the afternoon around 1:30pm when the sun is shining really brightly!!!scorching heat! After around 12-13kms my bike becomes really sluggish.... Can't go over 70-80kmph... And the engine gets really hot..after reaching home even if I pot a drop of water on the engine it evaporates instantly...that's must be like 110 deg.celcius..... Any body has a solution? I don't wanna pour water over it since that would cause quick expansion and contraction that could lead to problems like cracks developing etc...

Sachin'jee , since I bunked my physics class too often , i'm not sure how , but that it does is a fact . This I could gather from the net ...

Leaner Mixture leads to higher temps as the flash point is lower and it burns faster , this leads to excessive heating at the cylinder which causes pre-ignition , rapid wear and other damage . You can easily detect an overheating engine , your spark-plug shall have a "glazed" ( glossy ) look , or can even melt the electrodes .

@Horror'jee , get your bike tuned , your bike is certainly not overheating because of the sun . Bikes are designed to operate at much higher ambient temperatures . That much heat will certainly cause permanent damage to engine . Never pour water , let it cool down naturally . Is the bike engine less than 500Kms yet ?

me too have overheating problems.i did retuning but resulted in slight drop in fuel efficiency but better pick up.so went back and did the tuning again,the heating problem now seems near normal,but the air temperature at this time are also down at around 26 degrees.so iam not sure if its due to tuning.i have noticed overheating is mainly when i rev.hard for long in lower gears like second or third gear.do check if oil level/condition is ok.switching to honda 20W40 oil should also help to some extent. never put water it will cause thermal stress resulting in crack.how much KM have you done so far on odometer?regarding the gear slip,what exactly does the gear slip means?

engine overheating

@pinaki,as we know,rich fuel mixture means more fuel and less air and lean mixture means less fuel more air.so making air fuel mixture richer means there will excess fuel which will not burn completely.but this excess fuel will absorb the heat making engine run cooler.so if there is too much heat generated then excess fuel will absorb it and burn itself, else it will simply pass through exhaust as black smoke.
now one question,what temp.can be considered as hot for twister?normally they say anything more than 80 degrees is hot.but how do we measure the temp?putting cold water is not the method.we neither have infrared temp.gauges with us.touching the engine will only make you guess what the real temp.are.
while tuning the carburetor of twister i noticed that on one side of crab,there is a screw for setting ideal RPM,and other side has two more screws for changing the air/fuel ratios.If i knew what those screws are for, then i can myself try the tuning process,but only after carefully marking down the position of screw before turning them in clockwise or anticlockwise direction.what say?

Hi guys.. This is senvino from chennai. Got my twister on Nov 2nd. Really love ma bike. clocked 640km till now. Pick up and riding is good. first service is due in a week.. but....

I too have the gear slipping problem when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. During traffic signal stops shifting from neutral to 1st was also a trouble sometimes. it get stuck and i need to move my bike forward and back and then shift.. In trafic i even startd movin in 2nd gear..

Yup I'm gonna put some oil on my chain and check the oil level too... I've done around 2000kms on the bike... Gear slip meaning the gear does not sit properly on the wheel resulting in reving without your bike going foward kinda like your bike just goes into neutral... but not between 1st and 2nd gears

Don't be angry with the bike and start kicking the gear lever with all the force you have. Just leave the clutch a bit, engage it again and then try... it always works. You need to be consistent with gear shifts till first service (at the least).. if you have recently got the bike back from service.. it could be a result of svc guys using it a bit roughly.. so be kind to it for a while.. then it should fall in place.

hey guys, this is Manju from Bagalkot. I bought a honda twister on august 19th and i have clocked 4000 kms

is it possible to replace Honda twister rear tire ? If possible, what is the dimension i should go for ?

@sachin "excess fuel will absorb the heat" .. Yes you are right .

The rough estimate I use is that the engine casing should be touchable for a sec or two after a 20km ride . You can probably use any any thermometer ( not medical ) since it's metal only and metal conducts heat very well , it would be quite accurate if u can just read the temp off the cylinder casing .
As far as I can tell from my SplendorPlus carb two screws , one is bit recessed and marked with black pen to factory set .. it's the air ratio screw .
The other is spring loaded and jutting out on other side , it's for the idle setting . My carb is the old keihin .Not sure what your other one is for ? My HH user manual is very good and tells exactly what these are for and how to set them . Did you get an user manual from honda ? then it should be written there how to ; read it . You can try those screws , even if you screw it up ( the setting I mean ) it's no big deal .. any mech will fix it for 10 bucks .
@ horror Clean the exterior of your engine well with toothbrush and remove all crud and mud , even from below . The cooling fins may be clogged . Have it tuned for a bit richer mixture and stop revving it too hard for a few thousand more kilometers . Use less brake & clutch , accelerate and decelerate gradually .Sachin's idea of changing the oil to 20w40 is excellent , try it , no need to flush engine even , it's safe .
20w40 is twice as thick and heat conductive as the 10w30 honda & hero honda uses by default . The honda & hero honda 10w30 is however an extended drain oil , to be changed every 6000kms or six months , whichever comes earlier . All the good 20w40s on the market are standard drain oils , to be changed every 3000kms or three months , whichevr comes earlier .Use standard unleaded petrol , not speed/higher octane types . Cleaning the chain and oiling it with EP/SAE90 is a good idea .
@MnM'jee . Yes , any tyre can always be replaced , use only size/type specified by your bike owner's manual . Why would u want to replace it @ 4000kms only ????!!! Not even 10% worn yet .

It is possible to change tire but should be of same size as given in manual.DO NOT fit tire of any other size,because your bike is designed to work with for the factory fitted tire size. bigger tyre can cause damage,void warranty,effect handling and fuel efficiency.I guess the default MRF tubeless tires are currently best available in market.

Do not hit hard on gears,be gentle.so avoid putting excessive force while shifting.just Like the engine,gears are also getting set during running in period.gears will become little harder initially and then starts smoothing out after servicing.from my experience you should change 2nd to 3rd after crossing 25-30km/hr speed and remain in 2nd gear below 25km/hr speed.because there is less torque available in higher gears to pull the engine.you can make out from engine sound if your are stressing the engine or not.