Sorry your bike is having kicker/self, mine is not having. when you kick, the alternator also works hence DC for the digital CDI is provided via. RR for starting and running.

From your words I assume the bike is AC& DC i.e. AC for lighting And DC for Charging the Battery. once when bat is not connected , alternator windings (2 branches)become unbalanced
so light is not glowing full.

So there was a thread for my Twister too here.. Great!! I have a Twister which is 2.5Yrs old and clocked 25k so far, which i have been modding from the day I got it. I love this bike so much and travel 60km daily on it for the past 1 year. Great to meet you all!!

@Rohancyberdude
Rohan Gupta, is that you??

Honda twister mileage prob...help required

Hi guys,
I am akash and i own a twister(2010). I get a very low mileage of 45kmpl and im very upset with it...
the service mechanic messup with my air screw tuning, since then im facing this prob.
I want u guys to help me with this issue.

please tell me how many at how many rotations should i stop the air screw when it is fully closed...
What is the optimal no of air screw turns when it is fully closed???

seems like DIWALI is being played in bikes... sounds good.. hope it looks good to... at my place, none of twisters have gone for mod..
:-(
hope that i would do one soon
:-)

Ya my bike is self start only & as you assumed it's AC & DC.The alternator is having 12 poles but there is no separate poles particularly for lighting or for battery charging as in old pulsars.All the 12 poles will give output at the same time & only the RR will convert it into AC & DC for lighting & Battery charging.When you are not using the AC supply at the time charging rate will get increase .

Welcome to the Thread friend.

welcome comrade.. .. share your thoughts

mods from day 1 ?? WOW .. share em pls

Ya i understand , getting the right LED in chennai is such a chore.. i ended up buying simple strawhat leds from the local electronic store Re1/- ea.. with 1ohm resistors at 3/Re1.. but these are less than 0.15W power, you can get 1-4W LEDS at RitcheStrt , or at EllisRd where i saw he had 12W-20W LED BARS may b you can use them (i found them to be too big for my taste .. size of a typical Nokia 3110 :P :P) , i plan to make my own LED-Array and Replace the Halogen 35/35W Headlamp with apprx 35/50W LED array (using a bridge rectifies and 10MuF Capacitor circuit..to be built..)

as for what i hav calculated the typical load on the AC circuit as about 52W typical (35W headlamp + 10W tail + 7W(console 3. backlight and HL) ..so load limit must be around 55w.. once the tail and console load is shifted to DC , we have a complete 55W AC at disposal, so we can either use it to power a 55/60W Halogen( which requires a new holder as the stock one would melt in the heat,though the wire harness is sufficient) or we LED up the entire setup :P.. yeah No HIDs as Amperage needed by HID is too high the we use simple rectifiers, but for LEDs its fine load can be split.into rectifiers..)

Also all AC lamps can be turned into LEDS to reduce the overall load on DC setup as well , the HH-Hunk tail lamp seems the perfect size for our twisty.. am gonna get one and try installing it coming monday. ..

am just thinking if i should try the pulsar type switch panel , and run it on DC ?? worried if it would sit on our handle column ??

Thank You

@2wtourer
Sure.. Most mods were shot on old cameras, so let me rec them again on sunday in better quality, so I can show you all. For a start, this is my 1 year old Digital Tachometer, I will shoot it again in HD on sunday and reupload. This thing was designed by me, uses a micro-controller and calculates the engine RPM by counting the alternator frequency which is proportional to the RPM and then does some maths to it and then an algorithm displays it on the LED 7 segment display. Took 2 weeks to code and build, but worth for the life of the bike! It gives me more control over the FE as I control the RPM more rather than vehicle speed for maximum efficiency. Added a couple of code lines for some intelligent work, like it knows when the engine is running and when it is off and displays 'OFF', also added 2 leds to indicate power mode and economy mode like on those TVS bikes, but this is more intelligent and monitors the RPM band. This display shows in x1000 range, so 3.6=3600RPM and also, the RPM is not accurate as I dont have an electronic tacho to calibrate it accurately, else wud be spot on.




Also my stock tyres are now in pathetic condition, time for bigger tyres, could someone suggest some good 100 or 110 17-inchers for the rear wheels as well as their price?? I dont need 80 tyres and do drifting at signals anymore ;-)

Thread Approved and Merged

Hi AKASH, Welcome to the Gang...

your 45kmpl fe doesn't really come as a surprise , as several of our dear members have reported the same on their Twistys as well, some as new a a month.

FE depends too much on how you ride passive or aggressive... @40-45 KMpH it will give 60-70 in city well tuned, @50-60 55-60 @60+ 50-55 @80 45-50.. also frequent start-stops even @45 will return only 55 ! so check to that first...on-highways you would get 33% more than the above

(note : above are measured on my twisty)

Now coming to the tuning part, before you do i would suggest that you get the carb cleaned ( a local mech would be fine) and also get fresh engine oil (i prefer Honda 15W30 240/l or HH 20W40 -available only in loose 160/l)..

with above done , get ready with a flat head screwdriver of the correct size.. the screw to the right of the carb is for idle , and left of carb in fuel mix (there is no screw for air.. so fine tuning will take a lot of trail and error)..

not start the engine with the headlamp on , and tune the idle screw till the headlamp does not flickr (note original setting as we will revert to that once mix is set)

then at the fuel screw turn it all the way in, the engine should stall... now turn it 3.5 rotations outward till you get this orientation "/" on the screw head, then start the engine, let it run for about 10second, and slowly twist the screw to see the limits , too much fuel and it will knock and u will smell fuel , too lean it will back fire, use the accl to check delivery at all the ranges , twist the throttle all the way and check it out..
(you can refer to my earlier post on the exact screw orientation, there is a detailed report on that..)


CHOW

@2wtourer, thanks a lot...
actually i recently serviced my bike with new engine oil and a new air filter.
my riding conditions are decent and i do not accelerate much. i will try setting the fuel screw to 3.5 turns and check...
so what is the optimal no of turns? approximately around 3 to 3.5???

If you are not familiar with tuning, just turn 1.5 turns anticlockwise from full tight position. Then ride your bike normally. Check your spark plug colour and post the picture here after about 50 kms.

Also check your chain,brakes and clutch freeplay.

Even i too noticed up-to 50W LED's in Richy street. but it's quite high in price & also it requires some extra setups to run,so it's not easy to do it. That's why i'm looking for plug & play Kits,
When will you get your HH Hunk tail light assembly, I too tried but got quoted around 1500rs

Dear it's all depends on driving style only,So don't do the screw adjustment & all those things.Bcz the company setting is always best to give the optimum mileage & power. If you did anything wrongly then your engine will heat-up more then it'll lose it's performance. Even your mileage will get decrease.