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**abhichotu.abhi** · 05-12-2012, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

@prince: Oh I thought that was UG3 RR you were using. I'm not jumping
They must have meant knocking instead of backfiring.
Nevertheless spark plugs are black here so that defines everything.

That stator coil is tad easy to remove. Look on bsmotoring, they have demo there.

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

any mechanic can remove the stator plate, after removal of stator plate, give it to a good motor rewinding shop with proper instructions.

one thing to note is that your bike will not run without stator plate, so if u get it removed by mechanic, you have to push you bike to your home, so better is get it removed at ur home.

Thanks, This HID thing is getting me addicted again. Is there any need of a relay as the current drawn is 8-9 Amps (?) in the first few minutes of switching HID.

**princesirohi** · 05-13-2012, 12:36 AM

^^^yes, relay is must. Our bike's wiring is not designed for 8-9 amps, even for a sec.

OFFER :IF ANYONE WANT AN HID. I AM REPLACING MINE - 2YEARS USED 12V 35W, 8000K COLOR TEMP. ----ASKING PRICE 700 RUPEES. NO GAURENTEE. NO WARRANTY. 2ND HAND PRODUCT.

**lockhrt999** · 05-13-2012, 10:49 AM

@prince: I just want to support my current 55/60W halo with some current. You don't have to write instructions here just point me to it, if you know any.

What are you going replace your HID with?

@abhi: Sajit has posted a nice wire diagram here. Two relays need for a low beam and a high beam wires. Neutral is attached to bike frame so doesn't need relays, it should be able to handle 1000amps easily.

Note: with projector, you will need a single relay only as HID doesn't sport high/low beam in this case.

**abhichotu.abhi** · 05-13-2012, 12:26 PM

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

@prince: I just want to support my current 55/60W halo with some current. You don't have to write instructions here just point me to it, if you know any.

What are you going replace your HID with?

@abhi: Sajit has posted a nice wire diagram here. Two relays need for a low beam and a high beam wires. Neutral is attached to bike frame so doesn't need relays, it should be able to handle 1000amps easily.

Note: with projector, you will need a single relay only as HID doesn't sport high/low beam in this case.

I am a noob at HID's. Could you explain how only one beam (high or low) is supported by HID? Or give me a suitable link to understand whole HID thingy....

**lockhrt999** · 05-14-2012, 10:55 AM

Originally posted by abhichotu.abhi View Post

I am a noob at HID's. Could you explain how only one beam (high or low) is supported by HID? Or give me a suitable link to understand whole HID thingy....

In normal H4 HID, the bulb moves back and forth for high beam and low beam. With projector you don't use H4 HID and the high/low beam function is carried out by the projector itself with the help of a gate (which blocks light in low beam mode)

**princesirohi** · 05-14-2012, 08:24 PM

@lockhrt999: i am replacing my HID with another one since i want a 4300 color temp.

the instructions are ther in the thread-"convert ac/dc bike to dc" and a few others. sorry i m posting frm mobile, so couldn't give u the links.

**drvmtm** · 05-14-2012, 10:22 PM

small input from my experience...

if you want 55/60 watt bulb to run , rewind the coil with 18 awg or 19 awg wire then just refit.it would be sufficient.you cannot use relay but you should which you cant because your bike having a bcu which will disable the light s as soon as you switch them on as it will think there is no load as the relay will reroute the voltage flow!

ape rr- dont even think about to go for a local cheap ~350-500 inr one , it will ultimately fry off all. tried and tested(or should i say fried) point.

if you use a 55/60 directly after rewinding def the wiring will be under load as it s designed to work with ~35 watt in mind.
also the excess load can produce heat =burn swithes=bcu malfunction=etc etc.
also without relay you will not be able to get the full illumination of the bulb.
o yes the eliminator/avenger mod will not work in ug4 pulsars as its full dc bike and avenger coil is ac/dc one.

so what should i do?

- opt for 4300k hid(easy)
-take risk and run 55/60 watt bulb(oh ya i m a cowboy baby!)
-throw away all the bcu/switch and getting old style contact switches from ug 2 model(best if you hate the bcu but your girlfriend will curse for the time you have to give it for from her time)
thats it i guess.

**lockhrt999** · 05-17-2012, 02:18 PM

Originally posted by drvmtm View Post

small input from my experience...

if you want 55/60 watt bulb to run , rewind the coil with 18 awg or 19 awg wire then just refit.it would be sufficient.you cannot use relay but you should which you cant because your bike having a bcu which will disable the light s as soon as you switch them on as it will think there is no load as the relay will reroute the voltage flow!

ape rr- dont even think about to go for a local cheap ~350-500 inr one , it will ultimately fry off all. tried and tested(or should i say fried) point.

if you use a 55/60 directly after rewinding def the wiring will be under load as it s designed to work with ~35 watt in mind.
also the excess load can produce heat =burn swithes=bcu malfunction=etc etc.
also without relay you will not be able to get the full illumination of the bulb.
o yes the eliminator/avenger mod will not work in ug4 pulsars as its full dc bike and avenger coil is ac/dc one.

so what should i do?

- opt for 4300k hid(easy)
-take risk and run 55/60 watt bulb(oh ya i m a cowboy baby!)
-throw away all the bcu/switch and getting old style contact switches from ug 2 model(best if you hate the bcu but your girlfriend will curse for the time you have to give it for from her time)
thats it i guess.

hmm.
I think I'll use the current setup right now. I'll also plug my bike into wall more often that will help to reduce low battery sign occurrence.

PS. Why can't we use one more UG4RR in parallel? Won't it fit perfectly in Kirchhoff's current laws?

**abhichotu.abhi** · 05-17-2012, 10:10 PM

Originally posted by drvmtm View Post

-take risk and run 55/60 watt bulb(oh ya i m a cowboy baby!)
-throw away all the bcu/switch and getting old style contact switches from ug 2 model(best if you hate the bcu but your girlfriend will curse for the time you have to give it for from her time)
thats it i guess.

We could power the HID directly by battery via a relay bypassing the BCU and the default headlight switches. This will need installation of a new switch for headlight, but it is a more safer way to go. Or Any better ideas?

**princesirohi** · 05-18-2012, 01:46 AM

hey doctor....how u doing....where have u been, saw you after such along time....

nice to see you...

i would like to slightly differ from you..

Originally posted by drvmtm View Post

small input from my experience...

if you want 55/60 watt bulb to run , rewind the coil with 18 awg or 19 awg wire then just refit.it would be sufficient.you cannot use relay but you should which you cant because your bike having a bcu which will disable the light s as soon as you switch them on as it will think there is no load as the relay will reroute the voltage flow!

disagree, a relay can be used. i am using it, with BCU and everything digital. no problem at all.

ape rr- dont even think about to go for a local cheap ~350-500 inr one , it will ultimately fry off all. tried and tested(or should i say fried) point.

strongly agree... and you know i am also one of those who tried and fried everything.

if you use a 55/60 directly after rewinding def the wiring will be under load as it s designed to work with ~35 watt in mind.

somewhat agree, the wiring will be under stress, but will manage it, nothing will burn. replace wiring to heavy gauge if you can afford, otherwise let it be.

also the excess load can produce heat =burn swithes=bcu malfunction=etc etc.

excess load will not burn BCU, as main current will flow through relay and not BCU. no question of burning switches as main current for bulb does not flow through switches. if you look inside BCU, there is actually a solid state relay inside it and switches take the current required to activate the relay.
even some guys are directly using a 55/60w halogen without relay without any damage, but i will not advise it.

also without relay you will not be able to get the full illumination of the bulb.
o yes the eliminator/avenger mod will not work in ug4 pulsars as its full dc bike and avenger coil is ac/dc one.

so what should i do?

- opt for 4300k hid(easy)
-take risk and run 55/60 watt bulb(oh ya i m a cowboy baby!)
-throw away all the bcu/switch and getting old style contact switches from ug 2 model(best if you hate the bcu but your girlfriend will curse for the time you have to give it for from her time)
thats it i guess.

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

hmm.
I think I'll use the current setup right now. I'll also plug my bike into wall more often that will help to reduce low battery sign occurrence.

PS. Why can't we use one more UG4RR in parallel? Won't it fit perfectly in Kirchhoff's current laws?

kirchoff's law holds good but when you have semiconductor devices in ckt. that law does not guarantee that devices won't fail due to stress and there are lot more laws that come into picture.

i have tried that parallel charging thing and it works for small period only then after few months ...boom !!!
will explain that in detail later.

buddy you don't need another rr for parallel charging or ape rr. stock rr of your bike is sufficient, only thing needed is coil rewind.

Originally posted by abhichotu.abhi View Post

We could power the HID directly by battery via a relay bypassing the BCU and the default headlight switches. This will need installation of a new switch for headlight, but it is a more safer way to go. Or Any better ideas?

**lockhrt999** · 05-18-2012, 10:53 AM

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

buddy you don't need another rr for parallel charging or ape rr. stock rr of your bike is sufficient, only thing needed is coil rewind.

I'll do that soon. Gotta start searching about it.

**anishkrissh** · 05-18-2012, 11:45 AM

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

hmm.
I think I'll use the current setup right now. I'll also plug my bike into wall more often that will help to reduce low battery sign occurrence.

PS. Why can't we use one more UG4RR in parallel? Won't it fit perfectly in Kirchhoff's current laws?

for ug3 do we need a rewiring...... or something like that??????

**anishkrissh** · 05-18-2012, 11:49 AM

Originally posted by lockhrt999 View Post

hmm.
I think I'll use the current setup right now. I'll also plug my bike into wall more often that will help to reduce low battery sign occurrence.

PS. Why can't we use one more UG4RR in parallel? Won't it fit perfectly in Kirchhoff's current laws?

can we make dc supply for wolf eyes only
does that solve the prob for ug3

**audacious_da** · 05-18-2012, 03:01 PM

Used Pulsar - 180 things to look for??

HI XBHP ians......This is my first post in this wonderful godly forum of auto enthusiasts.

Requirement: I need a 2nd hand used bike for a year (

only) to commute in mumbai, max travel wud in weekends- 30-40 kms.

offer in hand: A pulsar 180 CC 2003 make.1st version i guess, silver color, no scratches,

Riding experience: OK, makes sound in accelerating which can be fixed owner says. pick up is fine.brakes ok.

Advice required: Friends, kindly advice on what all things i can look for in this bike before making a good deal for myself

Price : 18000(negotiable), Kms run- 20k plus

is it ok if i go for this old bike and use it for a year....

, m i paying too much

, any other options

Thanks in Advance

**AntiqueBlue** · 05-18-2012, 03:10 PM

Poor Mileage and vibration

My bike is giving me very poor mileage.
Around 35 - max 40 kmpl.
With petrol price rising, this is hitting me a bit hard, as this mileage is for shell super (supposed to give better right).

When I took bike to Bajaj center (i am regretting my decision already), the guy said all the vibration sound you are having in dashboard, and tail lamp region is because of balancing gear. I inquired what is this, he said "gaadi ka balance bigada hua hai, toh balancing theek karni padegi, ek gear hota hai, agar wo kharab hua hoga toh change karna padega". He pointed above the clutch casing and said yahan hota hai. Also said, clutch plate casing ko ni kholna padega, poora engine bahar nikalana padega.

Is something like this possible ?
And please mileage ka kuch suggest karo, petrol is already 82, news of 5 more increase, i will definitely have to buy cycle then

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