re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

[MENTION=49443]BloggingWheels[/MENTION] , Yes the philips screws are very hard to open, i opened it using mech's carbide tip screwdriver and a hammer, if it didnt open , a impact drive would surely open it , regarding bleed nipple , i poured drop of oil a night before opening it , and #11 ring opened it at once, if it troubles then try to tighten slightly until it moves and reopen again, Rusting of caliper pins shows it was running dry and moisture caused rusting , if silicon grease was not available , all purpose grease would suffice temporarily, hope you cleaned alloys as some of brake fluid fell over it , it cuts paint easily.

@all i changed to shell 10w40 today as its summer and i ride in hard sun continuously , spark plug was worn so changed that too , also instead of buying whole silicon grease, one can get sachets of it at any.maruti service station and it costs much less 40-50 rs compared to 230/- , thanks [MENTION=14414]shoeb[/MENTION].2015 i am getting this in a day or two.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Use for 1000-1200 km and then drain and fill 10W 40 or 10W 30 from good company like Veedol and Gulf or Motul. Even Shell AX5 is a very good oil.

No matter how much DIY you do but somethings are there which require experience. Opening the screw is one of them..

I have carbide tip screw driver which has a single bit that i keep aside for opening hard to open screw. For opening any tight screw always first tighten it so that it dislodges from its sitting position and then open and it will open without any difficulty. Else you can use a flat headed screw driver and lightly punch the corner of the screw at 45 degrees angle to open the screw. But this method requires experience. My mechanics punches and open the screw and you cannot notice any mark on the screw.

And for the master cylinder do not get the OE screws as if tightened again opening is problem. Do one thing get Bajaj chetak headlight screws and use. It is minus headed screw and opens in jiffy.

As for the oil, good choice in choosing DOT 4 as it provides remarkable difference in braking performance. And Waxpol makes one of the best brake fluids.

The rusting of the sliding pin shows utter negligence in maintaining of brakes which leads to poor performance of brakes.


Yes maruti service station have those small pouches but here we cannot get anything from those idiots.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

I use silicone grease to lubricate the pins every 4 months.Cleaning the brake pads and lubricating the pins before and after monsoon also helps maintain the brakes in top condition.

Inspect the caliper pin rubber boot for any cracks and brake pads for uneven wear.

As far as the bleed nipple is concerned then the trick to remove it is - Tighten the nipple 1/8th turn, loosen 1/4th turn. Repeat the procedure till you feel that it is not binding with threads.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Rohiit bro: The spilling of the brake fluid was done by the mechanic at the ASC. I will not blame him because it was inevitable that the brake fluid would leak after the damaged bleeder nut had been taken out. (Was immediately replaced with a new nut though). Any pointers as how this could have been avoided?

sibun, shoeb and rohiit: Thanks for the inputs on opening a stuck screw/bolt/nut. I will surely get one carbide head tool now As of now, I got it greased with regular EP grease. Plan to get silicon grease soon. Any other places where I could use the silicone grease? Sibun: Call it negligence or sheer laziness, I serviced the brakes for the first time in 12000kms / 2 years. My bad. Sry. Though I do clean the brake pads periodically.
While opening, I did try to use impact methods as well as clockwise-anticlockwise / tightening-loosening methods to open the screw as well as the bleeder nut. Still it would not open. The screw had to be almost cut to be removed. The needful was then done at the ASC. Regarding the bleeder nut/screw, I used a punch to try and rotate the screw but all it did was denting and cutting the nut. Earlier while opening the nut with the 11no. ring spanner, it slipped and damaged the sides of the nut. Even when the ASC mechanic installed the new nut and after tightening it with the ring spanner, I found little damage on the sides of the nut. I concluded that in any case, the material of the bleeder nut is very soft and it gets cut/dented easily while opening/tightening.

One thing that struck me while doing the brake servicing was that almost all the nuts and bolts that I have had opened in the past including yesterday's ordeal - had to be opened only with an impact. It is frustrating to do the same. One of the reasons that I suppose is that the water we use here to wash is very hard water. At the corners and joints and places like screw/nut/bolts, it leaves a deposit after drying. That might as well be contributing to super stuck screws. Any ideas on arresting this? Also, could you please share some pics of good quality impact tools that I should be getting?
Thanks

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Has anyone here experienced something like this ?

When I use the front brakes to brake a bit hard , the whole front portion of the bike vibrates . I can feel that something is loose and shakes a lot . There are some squeaky sounds too.

What could be the reason ?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Follow these steps in order. I suppose your Front disk assembly is loose.

A. Brake Servicing - If reqd.
1. Check for uneven wear/tear of the pads.
2. If yes, replace them at the earliest.
3. See above posts for replacing the calliper pin if rusted.
4. If there is loss in brake pressure, you need to bleed the brakes and fill fresh DOT4.

B. Proper adjustment.
1. Mounting screws should be tight.
2. Rotate the wheel with hand and check for any alignment issues.
3. Get the front wheel properly fitted.
4. Brake centering by rotating the wheel hard and then slamming on the front brake. Keep the brake pressure while tightening the wheel using a ring spanner.
5. Rotate again to check for friction and free movement.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Get a taparia philips/ minus head screwdriver , it will do all the opening jobs , bu get carbide tip one , the tip will be black coated. Since you have seen entire procedure you can easily service brakes now , i always apply grease /gear oil on any screw or nut i open this ensures in future it wont create much trouble . Impact driver comes in a set near about 300-350rs it houses a drive and various bits . I mentioned you can get silicon grease sachets from maruti svc , just ask for "brake caliper wala grease " they will show small white colored sachets cheap and effective.

As shoeb mentioned regular grease hardens rubber and dries quickly as caliper pins are used regularly and develops heat . Regular grease goes away in no time

You could have covered alloy, tank, visor etc with rags/polybag/paper anything that will protect will work , even pressure water will, wash brake area within 2-3 min after fluid falls over so that its action is arrested.

Most probably bleeder nut was of cast iron as it deforms mufh easily , weirldy mine didnt , also what brand of spanner are you using ? I got venus make 10/11 (12 headed one) to open it , if once it slips stop doing anything further as it will damage more, a friend of mine tried to open reservior screws and ended up buying new reservior as he hammered too.hard and reservior cracked below.

As sibun said opening screw or nut is an experienced job , nothing can replace experience.

Hope this helps

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

^^ My tools are all Taparia make only. I either go for taparia/stanley/dewalt/black & decker. My ring spanner was also taparia make 10/11. Thankfully, the spillage was limited to the alloys only. Did not fall anywhere else. And that too, it was washed off with pressurized water within 10 mins or so.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hmm, seems nut material was soft to open , next time just for sake try do this , apply bit of pressure on spanner , and with jerk increase it so that it opens
, sudden application will loosen it, constant pressure rounds off the nut edges rendering it useless. Keep zorrik 88 handy , it works wonders spray over nut and leave overnight , or if you have w30 oil that will also do . As you said water in your area is hard so oxide and calcium buildup can be a reason it was stuck badly . Apply grease on any nut screw you open so that it has a layer or coat which would prevent it from getting stuck again , this applied to any screw you open in bike , it would save you from all this trouble in future.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Finally new Xtreme(not Xtreme Sports) appears on Hero website.
Hero Xtreme, New Xtreme, Price and Specifications - Hero MotoCorp Ltd.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Looks like there is a small mistake in the torque units. 14.4 Ps @8500RPM.

Also, the brochure is of older/current gen xtreme.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Yes, many details are old, rear tire is mentioned as 100/90, but it is bigger in new Xtreme.
Also, no mention about Open chain cover and O-ring chain.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Guess only photos and features section updated. The rest of details are still the old Extreme.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Just what I wanted!

A Naked Chain on the Hunk/Xtreme. Now all Hunk owners can get a Naked Chain with a perfect fitting chain case as well.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Not sure why Hero keeps updating Xtreme (though changes are not that BIG) and not even considering Hunk for upgrade.