re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Try to figure out if the air is leaking from the sidewall bead-alloy contact area or due to any puncture.

If it is from bead then re-seat the tyre on alloy. Sometimes increasing the tyre pressure helps the bead to seal and can fix the issue temporarily.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Better to do the ride and get Motul/gulf , it'll be worth it . Else buy the Yamalube mineral 20w40 SG or SL which is as good but priced higher and Yamaha parts counter doesn't give discounts ( though buying from yamaha guarantees genuine oil ) .

If nothing else works , prefer buying a tube ( mrf , correct size ) .

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

I can very well understand your situation as i am too facing this from past 1 mnth , nowhere semi synth w30 is.available everyone keeps w40 and tells its summer and its best oil, nevertheless i had to ride 28kms to get Shell 10w40 for 270/- and Gulf 20w50 (it used to be w40 few mnths back) for xtreme and splendor , only option i had was OE hero oil which is waste for 220/- at svc.So pinaki da is correct , take the ride and buy correct grade instead of 20w40 . Hope this helps

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

It is the clutch switch and nothing to worry.

Mine is also same. I just move the clutch little bit while pressing self and it starts. no need to change the switch.
My extreme returns around 50-52 kpl, but my extreme is 99% at above 6k rpm on highways. My valves are leaking slightly and will repair this weekened.

My bike returns this much mileage even after 6k rpm because i build speed gradually than opening the throttle like crazy.
That is the same oil by Hero but Honda has just jacked the price taking advantage of its brand name and nothing else. It knows that indian people are fool enough to buy the same oil at more price when the label is changed to Honda.


And those who are thinking of changing to 20W 40 then beware as this is a warning. I had a talk with Hero engineer and he had said that using 20W 40 in extreme will cause early wear of bore and crank. And i have seen in my mechanic shops that most extreme using 20 W 40 oil have cranks gone in 30k-40k kms.

Rest your wish if you want to change.
Inflate the tyre to 80 psi and leave it for 5 mins. Check for any leaks due to nail. If no leaks due to nail, then it was leaking from side wall. With 80 psi pressure the side walls will be forced to seal with the rim. then decrease to recommended pressure front 30 and rear 36.

Your leaking problem will go.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Sibun, is there any reason for the premature wear out with w40 oil? Its really hard for me to believe that a w40 grade oil would be detrimental to engine. A w40 grade oil is a little more viscous than w30, and other than this there won't be any lubrication issues. In fact, at high temperatures w40 grade oil would retain its viscosity better than a w30 grade oil. Another thing to note is, the same Honda/Hero engines used w40 grade oil for years and survived lakhs of kms. As for my understanding, there is no way a w40 oil can cause premature wear out of bore and crank. Just my thoughts.

The only advantage of a w30 grade oil is, being thinner relatively, slightly improved acceleration.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Anyway i have changed to yamalube 20w40 sl today. It is working good in this hot climate. Engine is smooth and cool. gear shifting feels slick. But a little drop in acceleration.

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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Repaired the tyre issue. Went to mrf showroom and they removed the tyre and cleaned the rim and tyre beading. Then pasted a layer of fevicol sr and put back. The guy told me that herohonda's quality is gone down and thats why this type of issues occuring. Actually the alloy's surface have been corroded and pealing off..

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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Glad that you had asked the questions.

You didn't completely read the post and you just picked up the W 40 part.

Actually i had posted that by using 20W 40 oil the above mentioned problem occurs. In theory 20W 40 oil is slightly thicker than 10W 30 oil but in practice it is twice thicker because in 10W 30 the base oil is of 10 weight and in 20W 40 the base oil is 20 weight grade so oil is twice thicker and cannot be pumped into bore piston gap, crank main bearings e.t.c.

No such problems in 10W 40 oil as base oil is of 10 grade.

I also would like to clear that it is a common misconception that 20W 40 oil will be better than 10W 30 as it is thicker. No if you want better oil then use synthetic 10W 30 or 10W 40 and not 20W 40.

The common misconception is that 20W 40 oil is better. No 10W 30 oil is better and better oil than that is 10W 40 as it comes in semi synthetic or fully synthetic.


Now let me explain in detail. When we look at an oil then we must look at three things.

The three things are:-

1. Kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees- it matters most as engine mostly runs at 100-110 degrees.

2. Viscosity index - it is the main criteria which determines how long can the oil maintain viscosity without loosing lubrication.

3. Pour point- It determines how quickly the oil flows at cold starts.

So now i will explain why 10W 30 and 10W 40 oils are better than 20W 40 oil.

All the specs are taken from the three oils namely:- Veedol 10 w30 take off premium, Veedol 20W 40 take off and Veedol super swift 10W 40 which is a semi synthetic. All these can be found in Veedol website.

When i compared it with Shell Ultra 10W 40 then the viscocity index was 172. the reason why synthetic oils last longet.

Extreme, bore clearance is tight and also the big end bearings are also very tight tolerance. Moreover extreme revs faster and more than any Hero bikes revving upto 10k Rpm easily. So 10W 30 is good for the egine and in summers 10W 40.


That is the common reply that quality has gone down. This is the best answers to all questions.

The guy who did it knew what to do. Nothing to worry as he did the right job. I always fill nitrogen to prevent that rusting.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

If 20w40 makes that much damage to xtreme's engine, then why a few years before hero honda recomended 20w40 in all xtremes and hunks..

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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

My Hunk's (2008 April) manual suggests 10W30 only.
But 20W40 was suggested in older model Karizma's, but 10W30 in newer models, if I'm not wrong.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Yes. Pre 2006 ZMA had 20w40 as recommended grade.

Located [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir's post exlaining the possible reason behind the change - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post731755

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

@Diyva Sharan, its not just about ZMA or Extreme, all the models from Hero and Honda have shifted to 10w30 irrespective of what was suggested before. The service centers now fill 10w30 even for the older models. The 20w40 oils is discontinued completely. More than technical, its logistical reason I feel. The reason for change to 10w30 grade is not because of any engine technical changes; its more for an increased FE and acceleration.

@sibun, thanks for the explanation, but, I am still not convinced entirely. I don't have much of technical specs of engine oils to compare. One major point to remember here is the use of 20w40 grade oil in the same engines before with good engine longevity. The engine tolerances are always tight in the newer engines, not just Extreme; it holds the same for all new vehicles. If you see manuals of current vehicles (cars and bikes), the oil grade is recommended based on the operating temperature. I still am not convinced that 20w40 grade causes premature engine wear out. The Crankshaft is in the main oil sump, and just the first rotation is enough to splash the oil into cylinder walls and the bearings. Also, viscous oils will not settle entirely; there would be a coating of oil left on all parts, including bearings and cylinder walls. Maybe 10w30 oil has more kinematic viscosity, but 20w40 is not far behind, and its still in required limits, and lubrication would noway lesser than a w30 oil, that it could cause faster wear out. In fact, a w30 grade oil is prone to lose its viscosity at higher temperatures than a w40 oil does.

Anyway, I am not expert in engine oils. Let me gain some knowledge.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

The older model bikes should continue to use the recommended oil but the new model should use the 10W 30 or 10W 40 oil. Its because the bore is lubricated by the splash from crank and thicker oil induces viscosity drags which causes the flow of oil to decrease at high rpm due to pumping difficulties.

I just finished fitting my Joy engine now and the new bore to piston clearance is so low and the new crank has so tight big end bearings that although i had taken a 20W 40 oil still i used 10W 30 oil looking at the clearance.

Do not forget that oil acts as a medium for carrying away heat. So more faster the oil flows the more quicker it distributes and dissipates the heat.

When a thick oil is squeezed through narrow orifices then it doesn't flow properly and just causes localization of heat which is bad.

And as far as i know no model of hunk/extreme has 20W 40 as recommended oil.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

[MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] Ok i got it. but what should i do, immediately drain the thick oil and fill 10w30 or run current oil for atleast 1500 kms and drain it it is very hot outside so can i use it in this summer?

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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Jithin bro: As mentioned by other members also, 10w40 is the best oil for summers. having said that, it is not as such that your engine will get ruined if you keep using 10w30. It is just from experience that the members quote. Also, the recommended drain interval for 10w30 Veedol(I have been using that) is 2200 kms max. - If your running is moderate. More highway running, and the drain interval should ideally fall to 2000kms.

@all:I have been preparing my Hunk for a big ride (planned). Was busy with the brakes since yesterday and I had a tough time dealing with the front brake assembly including opening the master cylinder. It so happened that the screws on the master cylinder were stuck as if they had been welded to the cap. :angry: They had to be struck with a punch, damaging the philips groove on the top. However, I got a new set of screws for that. Then coming to the calliper assembly unit, while using a 11no. ring spanner to open the bleeder nut, it got damaged too.
Finally, took it to ASC - they heated the screw, and used their pneumatic punch/box spanner to open that. So had to buy a new bleeder screw. Calliper pins were totally rusted and had to change them too. Phew!! Hell of a day in the scorching sun. Running throughout the city for parts and stuff.

Finally, here's the cost I incurred for servicing both the brakes.
DOT4 Waxpol Brake Fluid : Rs. 85.00
45352KCC841S - Screw Bleeder - 20.91 - 5% Discount - 21.85
45290KCC841S - Bracket Sub Assembly, Front (disk brake) - 180.50 (after discount of 5%)Stupid Front brake 'service' charges - 80.Total bill amount - 292+85= 377.
And that too, when the brake fluid was mine and I had already serviced the rear brakes on my own. Just for a stupid bleeder nut and master cylinder screws, my pocket got screwed. Here are the pictures.