I know that bro, took a close look and couldn't find any loose wirings or switch (is there a switch). Everything seemed to be in place!

In most bikes the switch is placed externally. You can see the connectors. But in your bike I guess it is inside a cover. You need to open the screws holding the grip and the clutch switch should be visible.

Tank lid has water deposits due to heavy rain - chances of water drops in fuel is high I am planning to fill from SHELL today, as fellow xBhpian said that their readings are perfect irrespective of their quality (my exp.). Do you suggest I should drain the remaining fuel out completely?

I will do that ASAP. Can there be any other reason as to why the engine kill switch turns on automatically - it behave like those loose connections in houses wherein just a touch can bring back the light. BTW, my backlight went kaput recently.

Do you think, all this is connected?? I am getting this eerie feeling!!

thanks for the help!!

OK guys!, here I come again with few more problems:

1. Recently, I changed my lock assy, as many of you must be knowing by now! The bike doesn't start in clutch. Due to shortage of time, I called up the mech (not SVC) for resolving it and he said that there is another wire somewhere near the clutch cable which needs to be connected. Now, where exactly is it???
ya, there are couple of cables.. but i don't know if they might be connected to this issue.. can't say for sure..

2. Yesterday, I was riding in reserve on my way to office. In one of the signals as I took off, the bike stalled, loosing power and the acceleration/throttle stalled (no power at all) - took it to the side, shifted to neutral and started and went off. Now, what might be the reason?? I was shit scared as you know how painful it is when your bike refuses to start especially when there is horde honking behind you.
this happens when you run on reserve.. happened to me a couple of times during reserve.. sudden loss in power n all.. maybe due to less fuel in the tank, some air bubble might get into the fuel pipe or some water-droplets..and these might cause this to happen..

3. Yesterday, I filled petrol for 200 bucks ([email protected]/- HP) in the evening. But by evening, while ripping during our small Bangalore G2G, bike was loosing power, something similar to the indication of putting it on reserve and the self had to be pressed for a longer duration. Today morning while coming, again the same problem, but after I switched to reserve it's OK. Now, ideally for 200 bucks I commute for 2 days (34 kms to & fro everyday). Why the heck did it shift to reserve??? Problem with the bike or foulplay by HP??
can't be sure about this.. but if you could get the tank flushed/cleaned for ones, that would be good.. see that might help.. (not sure about this prob )

4. Meanwhile, my electricals seem to be going crazy at times - while riding, suddenly I see the engine kill indicator light on and thus power looses. Sometimes in signals I turn-off the engine and when I switch it on, indicator light doesn't blink which means it is not on then I repeat it a couple of time panicking! My battery is intact. So what might be the reason?? Electricals?? What needs to be changed??
looks like monsoon had taken toll on your ride.. ya, electrical problem is the best here.. moisture in the electrical parts can sometimes cause this.. check battery terminals and other switches..
the speedo meter not lighting up happens to me sometimes..

All this is scaring the shit outta me,,, help guys, help!!! pleaseeeee.... I do not want to go against the Yamaha reliability and I have been loyal to my bike. 'can't afford to loose her as of now!!
don't get scared bud.. she sometimes asks for more attention.. thats all..

Please bear with my rant but this is coming out after 3 years of frustration.

Within 3 years (32000 KMS) I had to replace the following parts.
1. Disc pads (3 times)
2. Rear break shows (N number of times)
ANS: Looks like to me you use a lot of braking when slowing down the bike. If that's the case then the brake pads will get consumed quite fast. I did a mix of engine braking and used 60% front and 40% rear brake application. My front brake pads lasted me for about 30,556 kms and the rear 28,600 kms. That being said i have noticed a lot of riders rest their foot on the rear brake pedal while riding which unknowingly keeps the rear brake engaged thus, reducing the life of the drums very fast.

3. Chain+Sprocket.
ANS: On an average chain and sprockets last a maximum of 15, 000 - 20,000 kms based on care, usage and riding habits of the rider.

4. Air Filter.
ANS: It seems you have clearly never gone through the manual supplied along with your bike. Never make this mistake!! It is a bible which instructs you what needs to be done and how. Air filter as per the service manual needs to be replaced at every 12,000 km intervals with a new one.

5. Footrest (Bike fell from the stand and footrest broke - poor quality).
ANS: Was someone sitting on the bike when it fell?? Was it on side stand?? I have never witnessed foot peg broken on my 2010 model.

6. Battery.
ANS: Battery has a life of maximum 2 - 3 years. The AMCO battery supplied along with FZ is a piece of cr#p!! Go for Amaron Maintenance Free 5 amps battery.

7. Clutch Plate.
ANS: Clutch plates have a life of 25 - 30, 000 kms based on usage and riding habits + religious service intervals being maintained with oil change and oil filter change as well. IF you ride on half clutch all the time, don't expect it to last for long. The whole set costs around Rs 700 - 800/-

8. Headlight dome (Poor quality hinges, broke while mechanic was tightening it)
ANS: Sounds like the mechanic used excessive force to lock it. Did he ever use a torque wrench or just a simple scre driver?? When you try to over torque something it will break!!

9. Rear+Front Tyre.
ANS: Rear and front tire are a part of normal consumables which one has to change as in when the life of the tires diminish.

10. Handle bar (bends even at the slightest touch of ground).
ANS: Why are you letting it touch the ground at the first place?? sounds like your bike has been dropped a lot of times? Costs around Rs. 285/- for the replacement handlebar.

These are the parts which I can remember as of now.
Some parts still are faulty and need replacement, I am planning not to after being fed-up.

Please make a note, within the 3 years, I have never met with an accident or even the slightest crash **touch wood**. The items which have been replaces are purely based on ware-n-tear.......

.......Irony is, after returning I called Yes.Yamaha and explained them the issue, they closed the case and disconnected my call. I am unable to call them anymore, just got a confirmation through email that my issue is resolved so complaint has been closed.

Hi everyone, due to unforeseen circumstances, my bike was dropped twice and now fork bend and handle bar change costs 3500 rs, as quoted by the svc...It is a normal fee for the fork bend? experienced riders help me....

Cheers
Ananth

Hi everyone, due to unforeseen circumstances, my bike was dropped twice and now fork bend and handle bar change costs 3500 rs, as quoted by the svc...It is a normal fee for the fork bend? experienced riders help me....

Cheers
Ananth

i think its way too much.. I didn't had any such problem, but my bro's R15 had his fork bent due to an accident and tue svc charged around 900-1000rs for the fork correction..
and the handle bar costs around 300rs..
3500rs Its not that much..

Fork correction or replacement? As far as I know, new fork tubes for an old cbz costs about 1k. Fz/Fazer's forks are much thicker and will likely cost more. But I agree 3.5k is way to much. What else are they replacing? Just fork tubes or the down tubes(the black tubes to which the front wheel attaches) as well? If it's the down tubes also then the cost will be higher because that will probably involve replacing the fork oil and oil seals also.


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Hi everyone, due to unforeseen circumstances, my bike was dropped twice and now fork bend and handle bar change costs 3500 rs, as quoted by the svc...It is a normal fee for the fork bend? experienced riders help me....

Cheers
Ananth

Hi everyone, due to unforeseen circumstances, my bike was dropped twice and now fork bend and handle bar change costs 3500 rs, as quoted by the svc...It is a normal fee for the fork bend? experienced riders help me....

Cheers
Ananth

OK guys!, here I come again with few more problems:

4. Meanwhile, my electricals seem to be going crazy at times - while riding, suddenly I see the engine kill indicator light on and thus power looses. Sometimes in signals I turn-off the engine and when I switch it on, indicator light doesn't blink which means it is not on then I repeat it a couple of time panicking! My battery is intact. So what might be the reason?? Electricals?? What needs to be changed?

Its due to the engine kill switch. The engine kill switch has got some carbon depsits(??) due to prolonged usage. Thus, the points donot connect precisely. So either you need to open up the engine kill switch and rub it with sand paper for the connection to be intact or you need to replace the switch.
Hope this helps.

Cheers!!

Fork correction or replacement? As far as I know, new fork tubes for an old cbz costs about 1k. Fz/Fazer's forks are much thicker and will likely cost more. But I agree 3.5k is way to much. What else are they replacing? Just fork tubes or the down tubes(the black tubes to which the front wheel attaches) as well? If it's the down tubes also then the cost will be higher because that will probably involve replacing the fork oil and oil seals also.


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Fork correction or replacement? As far as I know, new fork tubes for an old cbz costs about 1k. Fz/Fazer's forks are much thicker and will likely cost more. But I agree 3.5k is way to much. What else are they replacing? Just fork tubes or the down tubes(the black tubes to which the front wheel attaches) as well? If it's the down tubes also then the cost will be higher because that will probably involve replacing the fork oil and oil seals also.




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I was just saying about the fork correction.. Not replacement.. That would cost high.. Changing the tubes+oil+ labour, it would cost you even higher..

In the first place, you should not have taken the bike to service center for this issue. You could have got the job done at a local hydraulic fork bend correction shop that includes the handle bar correction if need be. In most situations, the handlebar might seem to be bent, but it is the fork bend that gives us such illusion while riding.


However, you have already given it to SVC. You must know that the SVC will never opt to repair any part. All they do is just replace it unless they do not have that particular part in store. All in all, bend correction at cost of 550/- to 600/- while fork replacement with oil and seals will reach close to 2500/- to 3000/-.


And once you get the bike delivered, rotate the front wheel and check for any grinding or rubbing noise, brake noise, bent axle, shock absorbing performance and fork cone set for any play.

In case of replacement, your best bet is to go to Genuine Yamaha Spares shop in the SVC and ask the prices for the same. Then visit your local spare parts shop who will most likely sell Genuine Yamaha spares. I am sure, you'll see a price difference even though slight - you aren't getting anything more or lesser than that. After that you can decide!

3500 is too much .....try an alternate svc


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