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guys, is this normal for a bike to feel a little unstable when going over white markers of the road? I have been noticing strange movements (as if chassis is a bit twisting) when i go over white markers of the road. IDK if this was present before but i consistently feel it since last one year.
Front tyre is asking for replacement. Rear is new
Bike is 2.5 years/30,000KM old with no coneset work done so far.
ps: bike remains stable and straight if i take my hands off the handle bars. No weird behavior if i shake handlebars while moving.
A worn out tire can misbehave on certain patches, especially crowned roads and slippery road markings like white markers which have a mild hump to them. Though the bike would be stable when the hands are taken off the bars, the mild side pull or the chassis bend feel that you relate to can be due to a worn/improperly filled in tire or even a bearing in the process of going kaput or already kaput. You can do this test; put the bike in side stand, ask someone to tilt the bike so the front wheel is off the ground. Now, hold the both the front forks and pull back and forth mildly, it should be rock solid; if you observe any play, you have a bust coneset.
Guys..need a help..after changing my tires.. whenever I go more than 60 km per hour, I am hearing some humming noise from front tyre side. It's similar like tyre noise or when tire air pressure is very low. While changing the front tire I saw that, similar to brake pad kind of part came out (one side) and they were correcting it. Today I was checking the front part and I can see metal rubbed mark on top the disc. I am attaching a photo, not sure how much it will help. My problem is, the good Cbr service centre is far away from my place. Kindly advise me. Also when I was checking after a few km drive, it's(disc) not so hot.
Unfortunately, from your picture above, the scratch or scoring if any just blends with the rotor and it's hard to differentiate. Yes, when the wheel is removed, one of the pads might have unloaded itself from the caliper and hang. It's the mechanic who should make sure the retainer and pad springs are in place and the pad correctly positioned, if not the pads might not seat properly and start grazing with the rotor. Get the pads readjusted and check if it solves your problem.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Last week i left my bike for routine service and some changes (chain & sprockets ).
Throttle body and air filter were cleaned.
And engine oil was asked to be changed to Shell Rimula R4 (considering shiv18 review on his cbr)
But my trusted mechanic was not able to find it in market and asked me for alternative and I said to him to put Motul 7100 10w40 but instead he bought 15w50 ( used in RE Bullet ) (which was suggested by his trusted dealer ) and poured it in with a new oil filter. Later while picking it up i came to know all this has happened and I thought lets try how it performs as nothing can be done at that spot.
I have ridden 200 kms after that and following are the changes observed :
1. Engine revs smooth till 5K rpm and feels lil bit harsh and pushing after that.
2. More heat is felt after riding 7-10 kms in lower speeds (50-70 kmph) compared to Shell
3. Blow a lot of heat when revved hard and achieving top speed takes time.
4. Above 110+ with pillion it puts stress on engine while with shell i could easily go to 130+ W/o any stress
5. Oil has already changed its color to darker shade
Earlier i was using Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 which was the best friend of my bike. Low heat dispersion, very less roughness felt (only at high revs above 8-8.5k rpms), very good smoothness and revved upto 7.5k easily and top end was achieved very easily.
Now the main concern is whether should i continue to ride with this engine oil (15w50) as I will be going to kutch in may or should i switch back to shell 10w40.
I want to also follow the [MENTION=68219]shiv1[/MENTION]8's method of rimula as it has performed very well considering the engine refinement.
Last week i left my bike for routine service and some changes (chain & sprockets ).
Throttle body and air filter were cleaned.
And engine oil was asked to be changed to Shell Rimula R4 (considering shiv18 review on his cbr)
But my trusted mechanic was not able to find it in market and asked me for alternative and I said to him to put Motul 7100 10w40 but instead he bought 15w50 ( used in RE Bullet ) (which was suggested by his trusted dealer ) and poured it in with a new oil filter. Later while picking it up i came to know all this has happened and I thought lets try how it performs as nothing can be done at that spot.
I have ridden 200 kms after that and following are the changes observed :
1. Engine revs smooth till 5K rpm and feels lil bit harsh and pushing after that.
2. More heat is felt after riding 7-10 kms in lower speeds (50-70 kmph) compared to Shell
3. Blow a lot of heat when revved hard and achieving top speed takes time.
4. Above 110+ with pillion it puts stress on engine while with shell i could easily go to 130+ W/o any stress
5. Oil has already changed its color to darker shade
Earlier i was using Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 which was the best friend of my bike. Low heat dispersion, very less roughness felt (only at high revs above 8-8.5k rpms), very good smoothness and revved upto 7.5k easily and top end was achieved very easily.
Now the main concern is whether should i continue to ride with this engine oil (15w50) as I will be going to kutch in may or should i switch back to shell 10w40.
I want to also follow the [MENTION=68219]shiv1[/MENTION]8's method of rimula as it has performed very well considering the engine refinement.
Please suggest
Don't use 15w50. It's too thick to flow properly in an engine designed for 30w oils. You will get reduced mileage and top end. Change it immediately, and next time buy 2 bottles before going for service.
And engine oil was asked to be changed to Shell Rimula R4 (considering shiv18 review on his cbr)
But my trusted mechanic was not able to find it in market and asked me for alternative and I said to him to put Motul 7100 10w40 but instead he bought 15w50 ( used in RE Bullet ) (which was suggested by his trusted dealer ) and poured it in with a new oil filter. Later while picking it up i came to know all this has happened and I thought lets try how it performs as nothing can be done at that spot.
I have ridden 200 kms after that and following are the changes observed :
1. Engine revs smooth till 5K rpm and feels lil bit harsh and pushing after that.
2. More heat is felt after riding 7-10 kms in lower speeds (50-70 kmph) compared to Shell
3. Blow a lot of heat when revved hard and achieving top speed takes time.
4. Above 110+ with pillion it puts stress on engine while with shell i could easily go to 130+ W/o any stress
5. Oil has already changed its color to darker shade
Earlier i was using Shell Advance Ultra 10w40 which was the best friend of my bike. Low heat dispersion, very less roughness felt (only at high revs above 8-8.5k rpms), very good smoothness and revved upto 7.5k easily and top end was achieved very easily.
Now the main concern is whether should i continue to ride with this engine oil (15w50) as I will be going to kutch in may or should i switch back to shell 10w40.
I want to also follow the @shiv18's method of rimula as it has performed very well considering the engine refinement.
Please suggest
The shell Rimula R4 was used in Shv18's engine to clean out the gunk in engine ,since the previous owner had not taken proper care. It took 3 changes t get the engine acceptably clean, and thereafter he had also used the oil upto3.5K Kms without change. One of the better aspect of this oil is the comparatively higher levels of ZDDP which helps in active lubrication and protection of the engine moving parts..esp., the Valve drive train..
The initial batch of CBR250 did come out with 20w40, which they soon changed after feed back from customer to get better acceleration and FE. In our temperate climate a 10W40 oil is the ideal choice. If you are going to use the engine in lower temperature ie., at less than 4 degree C, then 10w30 will give you better acceleration and FE.
The Shell Ultra synth 10w40 is the ideal oil of choice of many CBR250 owners who regularly use the bike for Touring , and oil change at 3~4 K kms is normal. As someone who had used the oil before I am sure you are aware of it's properties.
As for your query to continue using the w50 oil, if you intend to do consistent higher RPMs , with load, better to go back to Shell Ultra FS 10w40..The Rimula experiment can be done once you start riding in city since it will give you a chance to change oil, at early intervals, if you so prefer.
Good Luck.
When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, I never heard of 20w40 oil being recommended by Honda. Afaik it's the mechanics at SVC who used 20w40 when they didn't have stock of 10w30.
I am not aware that Honda has 20w40 oils.
Can somebody who has a 2011 model 250 post a picture of their user manual, the engine oil page?
My 2011 CBR is still running the stock contigos. The odo reads 12000km. Apart from a couple of punctures the rear tyre is fine, the tyre doesn't seem worn out and the thread depth is good.
Should the age of the tyre be a concern?
My 2011 CBR is still running the stock contigos. The odo reads 12000km. Apart from a couple of punctures the rear tyre is fine, the tyre doesn't seem worn out and the thread depth is good.
Should the age of the tyre be a concern?
[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, I never heard of 20w40 oil being recommended by Honda. Afaik it's the mechanics at SVC who used 20w40 when they didn't have stock of 10w30.
I am not aware that Honda has 20w40 oils.
Can somebody who has a 2011 model 250 post a picture of their user manual, the engine oil page?
The manual doesnt mention 10W30 as the recommended grade. Only gives a brief description of the oil grade and temperature relation.
The manual doesnt mention 10W30 as the recommended grade. Only gives a brief description of the oil grade and temperature relation.
Yep, but on the arrow we have 10w30 written, with the arrow ending at 40*C.
This is the first time I'm hearing that Honda had recommended 20w40 for CBR250 in the beginning. If I remember aargees ownership review correctly, he mentioned they filled 20w40 or 20w50 in the first service, which can be used as an alternative to 10w30 which was out of stock.
The shell Rimula R4 was used in Shv18's engine to clean out the gunk in engine ,since the previous owner had not taken proper care. It took 3 changes t get the engine acceptably clean, and thereafter he had also used the oil upto3.5K Kms without change. One of the better aspect of this oil is the comparatively higher levels of ZDDP which helps in active lubrication and protection of the engine moving parts..esp., the Valve drive train..
The initial batch of CBR250 did come out with 20w40, which they soon changed after feed back from customer to get better acceleration and FE. In our temperate climate a 10W40 oil is the ideal choice. If you are going to use the engine in lower temperature ie., at less than 4 degree C, then 10w30 will give you better acceleration and FE.
The Shell Ultra synth 10w40 is the ideal oil of choice of many CBR250 owners who regularly use the bike for Touring , and oil change at 3~4 K kms is normal. As someone who had used the oil before I am sure you are aware of it's properties.
As for your query to continue using the w50 oil, if you intend to do consistent higher RPMs , with load, better to go back to Shell Ultra FS 10w40..The Rimula experiment can be done once you start riding in city since it will give you a chance to change oil, at early intervals, if you so prefer.
Good Luck.
Thank you [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] !
I have planned to drain w50 after completing 1000 kms which will be done in few days. Then I will try the Rimula as per your guidance as I want to clean up the gunk inside the engine.
What drain interval should be maintained for rimula R4 ?
Sorry the oil was filled to the mark, there is a good probable reason that it could have caused the burn; BUT it is not clear. Therefore I do stick to OEM parts, reduces the chances of malfunction and eases any claims of warranty gurantee etc etc.
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yes brand new off the shelf.
Where do you get your service done in Mumbai?
The only service centre worth visiting is Vihaan Honda in Thane. The CBR mech there is knowledgeable and knows the meaning of preventive maintenance.
Aargee and The Flying Doc (Dr. Arnob from Motoroids) both have good experience with him.
I met the flying doc there when he has taking his bike back after his catastrophic accident.
Do give it a try; I get my services only from the mech there, even if it means riding 25kms one way for it.
Where do you get your service done in Mumbai?
The only service centre worth visiting is Vihaan Honda in Thane. The CBR mech there is knowledgeable and knows the meaning of preventive maintenance.
Aargee and The Flying Doc (Dr. Arnob from Motoroids) both have good experience with him.
I met the flying doc there when he has taking his bike back after his catastrophic accident.
Do give it a try; I get my services only from the mech there, even if it means riding 25kms one way for it.
Is Doc arnob fully recovered? What happened to his CBR?
Yep, but on the arrow we have 10w30 written, with the arrow ending at 40*C.
This is the first time I'm hearing that Honda had recommended 20w40 for CBR250 in the beginning. If I remember aargees ownership review correctly, he mentioned they filled 20w40 or 20w50 in the first service, which can be used as an alternative to 10w30 which was out of stock.
The grade of oil is decided based on prevailing ambient temperature.......As some one who was beside the engine which had the first seizure in India , being opened and oil inspected ,and further discussion I had with both ASC mechs., and the HMSI people Honda did use 20w40 initially and changed to 10w40 and then 10w30...The same happened in Karizma also..and Splendor etc...
I have planned to drain w50 after completing 1000 kms which will be done in few days. Then I will try the Rimula as per your guidance as I want to clean up the gunk inside the engine.
What drain interval should be maintained for rimula R4 ?
W50 is indeed a thicker grade which will not allow the engine to rev to Higher RPM easily....For R4 the change interval will be purely based on the engine cleanliness. If the engine oil does not change color very much by 1K kms of use, then the engine is better and oil can be used for 3 K Kms..If the gear shifts become hard and oil becomes very dark, the oil can be changed...
Good Luck.
When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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